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*** EVERYTHING IS REQUIRED READING, IF YOU PLAN TO DO THIS
SWAP AND DO NOT HAVE THE PATIENCE TO READ WHAT I HAVE TO SAY,
THEN YOU DON'T HAVE THE PATIENCE TO DO THE SWAP***
I get emails all the time asking a variety of questions,
for the life of me.. I should have saved them all to post
up but I didn't. Part II is going to become a 'living' FAQ.
For those of you not well verst in the Unitied States Consitution
(and the stupidity of changes that have taken place), a 'living'
FAQ means that this page will be updated all the time.
So... enough with the ranting, on with the show.
Email #1:
What's up?
I was talking to to nuke and he said you would be one of the
best people to talk to. Here are the following problems with
my car,
*New clutch
*Pressure plate
*Throwout bearing
*Rear main seal
*Machine flywheel
*Dist O ring
*Valve cover gasket
*Oil pan
*Timing belt and all seals
*Spark plug tube leaking oil
*synchronizers they suggested I rebuild my tranny $1100! I
reall don't want to put that much money into my car and have
an engine with about 120k miles on it and still only have
130hp I was looking at venus auto and do you think it would
be worthwhile for be tobuy a 3S-GTE clip from them? Do you
think it would take care of all my problems? What do you think
would be the total cost of the project? I woulden't be doing
to much of the work myself because I don't have to much knowledge
of cars. Sorry to ask so many questions I'm just really stressed
out about my car because I don't plan on ever getting rid
of it. I remember seeing your car along time ago and thinking
it was so bad ass! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again!
Anonymous
Reply:
First off, if your affraid of paying 1100 dollars to have
your tranmission rebuilt.. then you definately won't like
the price tag of this swap. Also, if your stressed about your
car now.. always remember that the more custom a car becomes,
the more of a baby it is. You don't really understand yet
what it means to be 'stressed because of your car'. Get back
to me when you find out how to get the AC, ACT and ATS wiring
correct on the 3S ECU for the Air conditioning to work with
the swap. Then we'll talk.
Email #2: (this email fits nicely with the first reply)
Almost all plugs fit in perfectly except for the one plug
that goes from the interior wiring harness to the ECU. Looking
at the ecu diagram i have for the st185, this plug controls
the fuel pump, starter motor, a few relays, speed sensor and
a couple of other less important functions. The fuel pump
is not a problem because i have shorted the wires on the diagnostics
box and it pumps fuel fine. The starter motor however wont
work but i hooked it up to the battery to test it but although
i have sparks and fuel being pumped into the engine bay, i
believe the injectors are not spraying fuel into the cyliners
because of the relays and functions that may work off the
starter switch on the ecu plug, though im not sure about this.
Therefore it wont start. I have tried hooking up the interior
wire to the original 3sgte plug but to no avail. I am going
to get an auto electrician to look at it in a couple of days
if i can. Can you possibly shed some light on this problem?
Anonymous
Reply:
The interior harness is a mess, and unfortunately there are
4 different year types and 4 different AC wiring types which
means to re-wire all of this is a pain. As of this current
moment I have been able to wire in everything but the AC wires
(because of the issues with how it works). Its best to make
sure you have at least the check engine light wired into the
3S harness plug so that you can check error codes. Out of
a fluke though, a friend of mine that also did the swap found
out that the car DOES run with this whole plug, unplugged.
All your lights will still work, etc. Like I said though,
with it unplugged you will not get engine check lights. This
solution is obviously not the best but, unfortunately I do
not know everything and this is the only solution I have right
now. Sorry there isn't anymore information I can share on
this.
Email #3
Do you have any times, or et's for you car with the swap.
just wondering what I will be capable of, with my 2.5 exhaust,
downpipe, intake, and a/m intercooler.
Anonymous
Reply:
No, currently I have not run my car on the quarter mile for
a number of reasons.
1.) The swap is not perfect, I have had wheel bearing problems
and axel problems.
2.) I still don't know the tolerances of the front wheel drive
transmission yet and I'm not willing to launch hard on it.
(until I have the money that if I blow it up I can replace
it right away)
3.) The top mount intercooler is not ideal for the quater
mile. Sitting and waiting in the staging lane the heat soak
(when heat from the engine goes up and makes the intercooler
hot as well because no air is flowing over it) is horrible
and bogs the car down. I'd bet that enough heat soak here
in Florida were I live could mean the difference in a full
second on the track.
4.) Lastly.. quarter miles do not necessarily interest me.
On with the rest of the reply..
If you have your 3S running good and your setup is sound
or getting there you should be able to pull a mid to high
14 seconds. The exhaust, downpipe and intake will help but
where you really want to work on is reducing hot air and turning
up the boost. Granted, you do need to do exhaust and intake
etc before that as well. I would like to suggest that anyone
that has questions about mods go to www.alltrac.net
and look at their extensive list of mods for the alltrac.
Many of those mods can also be used on the swaps, except for
full exhaust systems and rear suspension things.
Email #4
u mention its a problem or hinderance because its a top mounted
intercooler to run. Is there a way to relocate it then. Will
that mean someone would get better runs then?
Thanks
Anonymous
Reply:
As mentioned before, yes.. the top mount intercooler does
have its draw backs but it also has some good positive things
to. Its a given that if your at a stop or rolling very slowly
not much air is going to be coming in the hood scoop and cooling
off the intercooler (for the purposes of this faq an intercooler
will now be referred to as an IC) for it to be very efficent.
So, the car gets more hot air then it would like and runs
very sluggish until up to speed. Now, the benefits of this
top mount are that the distance between the turbo to the throttle
body is very short. The turbo doesn't have to push a bunch
of air through a bunch of pipes to the front of the car for
a front mounted IC and then back again. Any logial person
can reason from the statement that I just made that you will
more than likely get better response from the car with less
volume of air to move. So, all in all.. its more a trade off.
Its not that the top mount IC is bad or inefficent (actually
the opposite, its very efficent when working properly), but
there are benefits and draw backs of every system. Remember,
there is no perfect way to do anything, its all up to you
and how you want to run the car.
Email #5:
just FYI i found a group A front cut.. JDM or what ever you
call it with 130 000km's on it... they will sell it for $1600
Australian,,, thats the best price i can find... sounds good
to me
Anonymous
Reply:
First off, what you pay for is what you get! I would not
want to swap a motor in with that many kilometers on it in
my car. I would worry about the shape its in and try to find
something better. Ya.. its a group A which is sweet, but I'd
rather find something with less miles on it even if it is
just a regular 2nd gen 3S-GTE.
Email #6:
I have a gt4 clip that I was going to use but can't now do
to family reasons. I'm going to sell all the stuff and I'm
possibly going to sell to a swapper who would need the clip
parts anyways (pumps and whatnot) What I need from you is
a list of stuff that he'll need from the clip to do the swap.
Any help is appreciated sah
Anonymous
Reply:
Please read through the first part of this FAQ. It will give
you a general over-view of what is needed, but I can not necessarily
come up with a 'List' because every swap is different.
Email #7:
Hey hows it going... I two questions for you... Does the
5SFE tranny
line up with the 3sgte exactly? Or is there some modification
that has to be
done in order to make it work? Also do you know where I can
get a wiring harness or part of one for a 91 JDM celica alltrac
engine? I have a good knowledge of electrical wiring and circuits
do you have any diagrams on the pinouts of a ecu and the colour
coded wiring that leads into them? Your help is much appreciated
as I'm doing the swap now and need to get it done before the
end of this month.
Reply:
Yes, the splines on the 5S-FE tranny (S-53 tranny) bolts
right into the 3S-GTE flywheel.. so they are a virtual perfect
match. As I have stated before though.. you should use the
3S-GTE flywheel, 3S-GTE pressureplate and an upgraded 5S-FE
clutch with the original 5S-FE transmission.
As for finding a JDM or even USDM 3S-GTE wiring harness of
any year, hrmm.. I would be your chances of dieing in a plane
crash were better than finding one. I do have some information
that is forth coming on the wiring, please check out Part
III of the FAQ.
Email #8
What's up?
I was talking to to nuke and he said you would be one of the
best
people to talk to. Here are the following problems with my
car,
*New clutch
*Pressure plate
*Throwout bearing
*Rear main seal
*Machine flywheel
*Dist O ring
*Valve cover gasket
*Oil pan
*Timing belt and all seals
*Spark plug tube leaking oil
*synchronizers they suggested I rebuild my tranny $1100! I
reall don't
want to put that much money into my car and have an engine
with about
120k miles on it and still only have 130hp I was looking at
venus auto
and do you think it would be worthwhile for be tobuy a 3S-GTE
clip from
them? Do you think it would take care of all my problems?
What do you
think would be the total cost of the project? I woulden't
be doing to
much of the work myself because I don't have to much knowledge
of cars.
Sorry to ask so many questions I'm just really stressed out
about my car
because I don't plan on ever getting rid of it. I remember
seeing your
car along time ago and thinking it was so bad ass! Any help
would be
appreciated. Thanks again!
Reply:
This is the way I look at it bro.. if your car is in this
much dis-repair.. its not solid enough in the 'corners' for
the added stress of a high horsepower engine. Since I have
done the swap.. I have replaced both axels, steering knuckles,
all toe bolts, camber bolts, struts, strut mounts and supports,
etc. If your blowing a load over 1100 for a rebuild on a tranny..
don't contemplate doing a swap. The #1 thing here is dedication,
do I think you have it? Doubtful dude. Understood I just made
a lot of assumption, but so far I would say I'm in the near
7,500.00 range.
Email #9:
Hi there,
Its good to see that there are some people that are also
doing this
conversion. Im currently in the process of doing a 5sfe-->3sgte
conversion
for my ST184 to an engine from an JDM ST185RC front cut. Ive
spent this
week on it and its all finished with the exception of one
thing.
Almost all plugs fit in perfectly except for the one plug
that goes
from the interior wiring harness to the ECU. Looking at the
ecu diagram i
have for the st185, this plug controls the fuel pump, starter
motor, a
few relays, speed sensor and a couple of other less important
functions. The fuel pump is not a problem because i have shorted
the wires on
the diagnostics box and it pumps fuel fine. The starter motor
however
wont work but i hooked it up to the battery to test it but
although i have
sparks and fuel being pumped into the engine bay, i believe
the
injectors are not spraying fuel into the cyliners because
of the relays and
functions that may work off the starter switch on the ecu
plug, though im
not sure about this. Therefore it wont start. I have tried
hooking up
the interior wire to the original 3sgte plug but to no avail.
I am
going to get an auto electrician to look at it in a couple
of days if i
can. Can you possibly shed some light on this problem?
Other than this everything has gone to plan with minimal
issues. I am
using my stock tranny and i have no issues there.
Reply:
Until I have all the wiring figured out, there is no clear
cut fix for this. I have all the wiring sorted except the
A/C wires.. I still can't get the A/C to function and it might
never work again. For the time being, a crappy but working
solution is to leave the plug out. The engine will still start
and all the functions in the car will be fine but the A/C.
I will try to get more information on this as the time goes
on, please look forward to FAQ III.
Email #10:
Do you have any times, or et's for you car with the swap.
just
wondering what I will be capable of, with my 2.5 exhaust,
downpipe, intake, and a/m intercooler.
Reply:
No.. I have not run the car on a 1/4 mile track for many
reason: the heat soak alone from the top mount IC will kill
my start and I'm not willing to pay money to go do something
I know is going to happen like it does at every light. Yes,
there are ways to get around this.. but I have other plans.
If you want to know what you'll run, complete the job and
go run dude.. thats about the best I can help ya with. This
swap is still very rare and no concrete times are known.
Will yours be next? Lets hope not because my email box
is going to get flooded, but in the case of an EMERGENCY that
a question hasn't been ask that you MUST know the answer to
or hope that I do for that matter, email
me here.
This
FAQ was made possible by the contributions from TWM Performance.
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