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So
Ive decided to write up this walkthrough for the 7th gen GTS/GT
with premium sound.
The reason why this walkthrough will exist is because of the
trouble involved in replacing the headunit in a 7th gen GTS
or GT with premium sound. The trouble lies within ypassing
the stock amp, or finding a way to retain the stock amp while
using a low level signal output from the aftermarket head
unit (which is very possible, but I never toyed with that
idea before I installed my stereo and after that I didnt want
to mess with t). At one time I had word of a wiring harness,
which after attempting to locate it I wasnt sucessful. It
was said to be at http://www.nextcelica.net but I couldnt
get that address to resolve for me. Anyways on to the basics.
Heres what you will need:
An
aftermarket Dash Install Kit (Either Metra or American International)
4
6 foot lengths of 12-16 gauge speaker wire
about 24 bell connectors or butt connectors
a socket set with all the lower millimeter sockets
a phillips head screwdriver
a universal head screwdriver with an attachment for a socket,
or a
socket
with an extension
a few tie wraps (to make it clean and presentable)
You
probabally want to disconnect the negative battery cable before
you get started. First to start you pull out the plastic trim
that goes around the gear shifter or gear elector. It just
pulls right up. If you have a manual transmission you need
to unscrew the gearshifter and pull the booot over the metal
gearshifter rod and put it somewhere safe. Undo the clip on
the cigarette lighter and pull the silver trim around the
gearshifter off and put it somewhere safe. Then you have 3
knobs on the climate controls. You pull them straight out.
They come right off. Put them somewhere safe. Then the sliding
controller, pulls right out and put it with the knobs. You
will see 2 screws under where the knobs went, and 2 screws
below where the climate controls mate to the gearshift trim
piece. They are all phillips head screws. Take them out and
put them with the rest of your stuff. Now you are ready to
pull the entire middle section of the dash out. Just pull
on it. You will feel it give. Dont worry about breaking it.
It should come out with minimal resistance. You will need
to undo the wiring harness that goes into the clock. After
that middle piece is out you will see the stock head unit
being held in place with 4 bolts. I believe they are 12 mm
bolts but I dont remember off the top of my head. You will
need to use your socket with the extension or your universal
head screwdriver with the socket adapter to get them out.
Once you get them out the head unit will pull right out. You
will see2 antennas and 1 harness in the back. Unplug everything
and set the unit off to the side (you wont be eeding this
nasty ol thing for a long time I hope).
Ok
so you got your dash apart and you got your stock deck removed.
Now you have to get down to where the stock amp is. To do
that you will need to take out the glove compartment. It is
held in place by 2 bolts and 2 phillips head screws. You will
need to open the glove compartment to locate them. Once you
found them, take them out and the glove compartment will snap
right out of place and you will be able to remove it. Pull
up the carpet on the floor so you will have a place to run
your speaker wires. You will see the stock amp up in the corner
of the passenger footwell. There are 2 harnesses in it. One
carries the power and the signals to the amp and the other
one carries the signals out to the speakers. The LARGER of
the two is what you will want to focus on. What you will want
to do is chop it. You will want to do this keeping in mind
if you ever want to reverse this, you will want to leave yourself
enough end on the wire to work with. So Id chop it around
6 inches from the end. Heres where the fun begins.
So
we are ready to install the head unit. Pull out your head
units wiring harness. The wiring harness should have:
red
(12 volt switched)
yellow (12 volt constant)
black (ground)
orange - (this is optional as not all head units have illumination
option)(illumination wire) brown (sometimes the head unit
has a cell phone mute) (we wont be
dealing
with this)
white
- right front positive and negative
(negative
always is striped)
white w/black stripe
gray
- left front positive and negative
gray w/black stripe
green
- right rear positive and negative
green w/black stripe
purple
- left rear positive and negative
purple w/black stripe
Ok
so theres your wires. The top set of wires (red, yellow, black,
and orange (if you have an orange) all get plugged in at the
harness in the dash. You will need to splice into the stock
harness that went into the stock deck to get a source for
your power wires for the head unit.
The
stock wiring harness color codes are:
gray w/silver dots 12V ACC
blue w/yellow stripe 12V Constant
white w/green illumination*
*note
im not exactly sure if this is illumination or dimmer. The
illumination turns on when the side markers are on. The dimmer
allows the use of the stock switch to control levels of those
lights. Most aftermarket units DO NOT have a dimmer wire,
but some have a illumination wire. If im incorrect you will
have to use a 12 volt tester to find the wire that comes on
with headlights (thats what I had to do)
Ok
back to work. You need to connect the red wire from the head
unit to the gray w/silver wire in the dash. That is the SWITCHED
power signal. You then connect the yellow wire from the head
unit to the blue w/yellow stripe. That is the CONSTANT power
signal. And you will need to find a metal grounding point
to connect the black wire to ground the deck. Use the bell
connectors or butt connectors to connect all wires. Use a
wire tie wrap to keep these wires nice and clean and out of
the way. At this point I recommend you reconnect the negative
battery cable and turn the ignition on and see if the deck
powers up. You dont have to do this but it saves alot of grief
in the end if you miswire something.
Here
are the speaker output wiring codes as a refrence to this
next part:
Now
the speakers in the front are 3 way speakers. That means theres
3 drivers on each side. The WOOFER is one and the tweeter
and midrange are ran as a series as another. So each front
side has 2 inputs which you have to run in a series. If you
dont understand how a series configuration works then you
probabally have no buisness doing all this as the average
joe wont know how to make this work correctly. The rear speakers
are just set up normally.
DRIVER
SIDE IS LEFT
front left 6 1/2 WOOFER positive-red/blue negative-red/black
front left mid/high positive-pink negative-violet
rear left 6 1/2 SPEAKER positive-black negative-yellow
PASSENGER
SIDE IS RIGHT
front right 6 1/2 WOOFER positive-green negative-blue/white
front right mid/high positive-LIGHTgreen negative-blue
rear 6 1/2 SPEAKER positve-red negative-white
Now
on to the speakers. This is probabally the most tricky part
of all. First thing you want to do is run each speaker seperately
one at at time to eliminate confusion. So lets start with
the the front left.
To
hook up the front speakers like I said before, and retain
the stock abilities of each driver you have to hook up the
woofers and the mid/tweeter in a series. So for the front
left take the red/blue wire and hook it up to the purple coming
off the deck (you will have to hook your lengths of speaker
wire up to it to extend it long enough. Ok so you have the
red/blue wire hooked up to the purple. Now you have to take
the red/black and hook it to the pink. Then you take the violet
wire and connect it to the purple w/black stripe coming off
the deck. The general idea is to hook the positive of one
driver to the positive off the deck. Then the negative of
that driver to the positive of the other driver, and the negative
of the other driver to the negative of the deck. Thus running
the two speakers in a series.
Heres
a little diagram:
purple-red/blue
red/black-pink
violet-purple w/black stripe
If
you dont understand that you should back up, print this out,
and take it
to an installer or email me.
Front
Right is the same is the front left but use the respective
colors:
green-green
blue/white-LIGHT green
blue-green w/black stripe
and
the rears are just as they are above. Pretty straight forward.
Installation
is the opposite of removal.
Use
wire ties to clean it up and make it prettier and less of
a rats
nest
wherever applicable.
ANY
QUESTIONS. EMAIL LUNI420 at Luni@gmage.net
GOOD
LUCK. HAPPY INSTALLING.
By - Luni420
DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for bad instructions. I am
not responsible for essing up your car or stereo. As for wiring
off the head unit, always read the instruction manual prior
to installing and use THEIR color coding by default. Mine
may be inaccurate.
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