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» The Celica Files   » Archives   » Archives   » Understanding the stock ECU: Full dump after Fuel Cut with FCD talk! (Page 1)

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Author Topic: Understanding the stock ECU: Full dump after Fuel Cut with FCD talk!
Trance4c
Unregistered


Icon 1 posted January 05, 2004 02:02 AM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Ok... so, I'm putting a MKIII Supra compressor side 60-1 trim worked CT26, its in great shape and I like the idea of having it look stock! I'm also NOT looking to go so high in horsepower to need a bigger turbo. I'm looking to make 350hp to the wheels at around 17psi or so.. or thats what I would hope. I would probably need 100 octane at that psi for good measure. I expect that I should be able to get up to around 20psi on the 60-1 and get around 370-380 if I run some 114 octane. Now, this is all being fueled by the stock fuel rail with the stock 440cc injectors. Its a brand new prepped block which was torn down to the crank and pistons still in the short block. This engine is getting EVERYTHING NEW in stock form but the TTE 1.4mm hg and ARP head studs. Look down further in the thread for around 18 pictures of so of my Celica (orange car.. roommates is the red MKIII) with my 2nd gen 3S-GTE.

I expect this is how I will operate the car.. I'm a modest person and just like having an easy car to drive (FWD and just want 300 range hp) thats a blast in your pants when you want it with style (I'm very partial to exotics, hence the look) but also nice enough to let me learn how to drive well.

I just wanted to see what everyons opinions are on my setup, what they think the tolances should be in psi range per octane on street gas, 100, and 114. Also.. if you have read this far what psi do you think it will lean out on with the stock amount of fuel as the computer dumps fuel at a 100% duty rate after the stock fuel cut psi level if I'm correct (correct me if I'm wrong!). So with how much fuel that is.. what kind of hp do you all think I should be getting? Stock head and all..just upgraded turbo, intake (straight pipe 3"), 3" exhaust, 2.75" to 3" Top End Performance downpipe on a Supra TT fuel pump to feed it all. Controlled by a Profec B, oil pressure guage, boost and O2 vac (I know its not really that great, need wideband tuning). I am planning to get on the dyno once its put together to find out where it leans out, but just want to do some brain storming and get others opinions.

Thanks

Clayton

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CelicaPlaya
Dueces Wild
Member # 7240

Icon 1 posted January 05, 2004 02:19 AM      Profile for CelicaPlaya     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
damn man, ur car is gonna be fast as balls.

[ January 05, 2004, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: CelicaPlaya ]

--------------------
 -

I'm as confused as a hungry baby in a topless bar

Posts: 6186 | From: Crestwood, KY | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged
Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits
Member # 5435

Icon 1 posted January 05, 2004 04:13 AM      Profile for Chris Dittrick   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Heres my 2c.

Getting 350hp to the wheels out of the supra compressor is going to be damn near impossible. Very few people can make that power out of the ct turbos period, regardless of modification. (on the 3sgte)

Are you using the whole supra turbo? If so, keep in mind that your twin exit manifold might not flow very well into the single entry supra turbo. This could cause boost problems...

Mathematically, you are limited to roughly 270 hp at the wheels on the stock fuel injectors. This is running at max duty cycle, which is a place you do not want to be...injectors will fail if run like this for a long time imho. Usually you wouldnt want to go over a 75-80% duty cycle or so...

As for the ecu acting after boost cut...i'm not sure if your wording is right but you have the idea. After 12 psi or so you will get a lot of fuel. Enough for the ct26 for sure. The problem, often overlooked by the mr2 community, is ignition timing. Depending on what FCD type you use, you could put your engine at risk for failure. Regardless of choice however, the timing maps at most will be set for boost levels of 12psi. That is, you will be seeing much more timing advance than you would want at 17psi. The mr2 guys go on and on that it is safe, however time and time again i see engines drop like flies...mine included. I plan to do a write up on my opinions of different types of FCD's, because a lot of people don't see how they can be different and potentially harmful to your engine.

There are things you can do to help out the situation. Water injection is a big one. I will be installing it on my car if it ever warms up around here! Meanwhile it sits...haha. Another thing that I find VERY cool is the J&S Safeguard, which basically takes the signal from your knock sensor and retards timing accordingly when it senses knock. It isn't perfect because it is a responsive measure and has to sense knock before it works, however it is something I'd personally like to look into further. FWIW, I know that both Pat C. and Perry Beckford, 2 of the fastest alltracs in the world, use the J&S in combination with their EMS...that speaks a lot to me.

FWIW, my car will not see over 12 psi until it gets full engine management, or something that will control both timing and fuel.

As for power levels, I'd say you will have a lot of trouble getting over 300 hp at the wheels without cams. That seems to be the key to breaking through that barrier to me. Properly degreed, they really open up the top end of the 3S. And after that, its up to the tuning to make the best out of it. Tuning plays a huge role here. Otherwise, you have a new engine basically, and seem to have done everything right. You might want to look into an aftermarket FPR, because the stock one isnt all that great imho. Then tuning...did I already say that...hmmm if not i'll say it again...twice: tuning and tuning!

Hope this helps you organize your thoughts/plans a little better. I know a lot of this you know, I wanted to put it in writing for some of the newer members we get here.

btw I have been following your updates, keep up the work dude your almost there! [Smile]

Talk to ya soon,

Chris

--------------------
http://www.gtfour.ca/
1988 ST165 w/185 engine
294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
 -
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to: chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the list! Celica World Race

Posts: 3414 | From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada | Registered: Oct 2002  |  IP: Logged
NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

Icon 1 posted January 05, 2004 04:46 AM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Clay

350 to the wheels is what 410 at the crank. CT-26 is smaller than a T3 isn't it. Even if you have a 60-1 trim in it, it's like having a T3-60-1

400 hp is T4 territory if i'm not mistaken. Your turbo is undersized for one.

This is off turbochargers.com

Application: Custom
CFM: 450
Compressor Wheel: Super 60 T3
Max HP Rating: 300
Turbine Wheel: 72 w/ 10° clip
Price: $695
This internally gated turbo is custom for Honda etc.

See what i'm saying.. compared to the T4s which are 400+ hp.

a T4 60-1 trim :

Application: Custom
CFM: 800
Compressor Wheel: 60-1
Max HP Rating: 550
Turbine Wheel: Stage 3
Price: $695
This is a custom application for Honda and Mitsubishi. Compressor inlet is 4". Turbine housing is T3 .48, .63, or .82 .

So no i don't see your 60 trim ct-26 making 350 wheel hp. Crank hp is closer to reality with high psi on high octane but not at the wheels sorry.

Your injectors should cover you to roughly 300hp by my numbers so maybe you'll need to go to 550s or your 440s will just be maxed out.

I know you have a FMIC so you're ok on that side.

As far as what psi to run , I;ve heard of people running a CT20 on a 2nd gen 3sgte up to 18psi before they had detonation. After that they used water injection to get another 3psi out of it. I'm pretty sure they were talking pump gas with all this going on. This was on an mr2 so it didn't have a TMIC.

Best thing to do now, if you're serious about this. Is spend 500 on an emanage.

My friend here has a single turbo supra. Used to have an AVCR/SAFC combo ... got him into low 12s. He now has an e-manage and an e-01 and he says he would never go back. I'm sure he's in the 11s now so it did help.

Don't waste money on an SAFC. I have one. I love it. But for 200 more you can control both fuel, and timing in 3 dimentional maps. So think of that. Other wise you'll probably get an SAFC and water injection and that will cost you just as much.

PS, if your head is still off the car maybe do some research on getting a 1st gen 3sge/3sgte head. They have larger ports AFAIK.

good luck

Nuke

--------------------
1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "

Posts: 2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged
Trance4c
Unregistered


Icon 1 posted January 05, 2004 01:18 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Wow.. great replies guys! This is exactly the kind of level of conversation I'm looking for.

NOTE** Higher than 300hp I'm only looking to pull ONCE on the dyno, just to see what I can get out of this setup. Otherwise, this car will always see 12psi on the street on pump gas, usually I will run 10psi and 6psi for low boost on a daily basis. If I feel I really do want to have a race and I have time to prep for it, I will use 114 octane at 16psi and thats as far as I expect to push this setup. Again, the 20psi pull I just want to do once, just to see where this car with this turbo stacks up (we have a lack of good dyno information if you ask me, I have a stock boost pull on a stock 3S-GTE CT26 and I plan to do stock boost pull on the CT26 60-1 to see the difference, then a 12,16 and 20psi pull).

Chris - Water Injection is a must, I am planning on that.. but it is not a necessity at this point since I know on the street I do not plan to push it that hard. All I am looking for is 300hp. I figure at 16psi on the stock CT26 I was making roughly around 240-250 since 10psi was 198hp @ 189ft/lbs of torque. I am not aware of what kind of limits to push the stock fuel setup to, but I want to stay on the stock fuel system.. just want this discussion so that I can figure out what I can expect and how far I feel is safe to push this setup on the dyno. Its good to know what kind of hp range peopel think the 440's are good for, so that I don't try to push for anymore and by chance break something.

I'm interested in knowing more about this FCD conversion as I'm not aware that there was a difference either, please keep me informed on it! Nice thing though is I don't plan to run past fuel cut anymore and won't be going outside of the stock ECU parameters except for the dyno pulls.

Once the dyno pulls are done.. the car will only see 20psi again once I put in cams (probably in the fall) to see what kind of difference cams make to this setup.

Nuke - The CT26 is a T4 size housing but the stock turbo casting is extremely thick, thats where having the casting bored out and a full 60-1 conversion with a 54trim on the exhaust wheel makes the difference to get the kind of performance out of a CT26 turbo. I believe that a 60-1 (essentially a Super 60 turbo) can be capable of 350hp, but not much more! I have see this particular turbo lay down over 350hp on a 7M-GTE MKIII Supra before I bought it, so I know its capable of more!

Again.. thanks for the replies guys.. this is what I'm looking for! Anymore input is great.

Clayton

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NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

Icon 1 posted January 05, 2004 03:07 PM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
good stuff clay

I still think you should look into an emanage, it controls :

a-fuel
b-spark
c-additional injectors (or water injection through an injector ; ) )

I dunno if i would give my car 20psi of hell just to prove a number or add to a registry, that's very nice of you but i don't like the idea.

"The CT26 is a T4 size housing but the stock turbo casting is extremely thick"

very cool !

What else, oh FCD

From what the supra owners (ken-gmage) and others experience.

The HKS FCD gives a hiccup on the vac/boost transition. It's a glitchy FCD. The greddy BCC is supposed to be cool smooth. That was one of the first things ken changed on the car when he got it.

PS you may want to look into getting some stock 3sge/3sgte cams from other years ... or mixing and matching . There may be some very easy hp to be made there. Look for longer duration, and less overlap and go from there.

good luck

nuke

Posts: 2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged
Trance4c
Unregistered


Icon 1 posted January 05, 2004 05:03 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Nuke - Ya.. I'm completely with you on the emanage and the cams... I do plan to do both eventually to finish the car off. But they are things I can do later.. right now I'm just seeing what it will put out at base setup for shits and giggles.

As for the FCD.. hrmm.. I have heard that the MKIII Supra's have that problem and its better to use the BCC.. but myself and numerous friends have been using the HKS FCD without problem.. if there is documentation on this, I would defiantely like to know about it! Just because I haven't had the situation, doesn't mean its not going to happen to me!!! Thanks for the reply and keeping an eye out for me.

Clayton

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Luni
I had an MR2 first
Member # 92

Icon 1 posted January 08, 2004 12:11 PM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I am still inclined to somewhat disagree with the 12 psi fuel map theory.

The fact of the matter is our ECUs dont measure a/f ratio by PSI generated by the turbo. It measures it by how much air goes into the system.

Our AFM takes care of that. The MAP sensor which measures the PSI is only there to provide input for the boost gauge and the fuel cut process. How does the ECU know when 12 PSI has occurred.

And what about other contingincies like when you put a different turbo on and it is more or less efficient at the same PSI. How could the stock computer measure PSI because 12 psi on a TD06 or T3/T4 is MUCH more power than 12 psi on a CT26. And what about a CT20b? It has more power at a given PSI than a CT26. And Claytons turbo is more efficient than a stock CT26 so how would that work.

And I have still never seen any substantial proof that our ECU "screws up timing after 12 psi" because from what Ive seen, the 3SGTE dont know what 12 psi is when its making a/f decisions.

--------------------
The Weapon: 1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI
Boost Addict representin Toyota on Celica.net
qwst_rcjones@msn.com - AIM: Lunitari420
 -  -

Posts: 10221 | From: c.net administration has no nutz | Registered: Jun 2001  |  IP: Logged
Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits
Member # 5435

Icon 1 posted January 08, 2004 01:14 PM      Profile for Chris Dittrick   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Luni,

From autoshop101.com tech article #23

quote:
Ignition Timing Strategy
The ECU determines ignition timing by comparing engine operating parameters with spark advance values stored in its memory. The general forumula for ignition timing follows:

Initial timing + Basic advance angle + Corrective advance angle = Total spark advance.

Basic advance angle is computed using signals from crankshaft angle (G1), crankshaft speed (Ne), and engine load (Vs or PIM) sensors. Corrective timing factors include adjustments for coolant temperature (THW) and presence of detonation (KNK).

So, this means that the ECU takes the PIM (turbo pressure sensor) signal and specifically uses it to determine it's basic timing factor. This is how the ECU uses boost to set timing maps.

However, it does not use boost to set A/F maps, which is completely seperate, as you already stated above.

[Smile]

Chris

[ January 08, 2004, 01:16 PM: Message edited by: Chris Dittrick ]

--------------------
http://www.gtfour.ca/
1988 ST165 w/185 engine
294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
 -
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to: chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the list! Celica World Race

Posts: 3414 | From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada | Registered: Oct 2002  |  IP: Logged
NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

Icon 1 posted January 08, 2004 03:44 PM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
great info chris!
Posts: 2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged
Trance4c
Unregistered


Icon 1 posted January 08, 2004 06:23 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Chris Dittrick:
Luni,

From autoshop101.com tech article #23

quote:
Ignition Timing Strategy
The ECU determines ignition timing by comparing engine operating parameters with spark advance values stored in its memory. The general forumula for ignition timing follows:

Initial timing + Basic advance angle + Corrective advance angle = Total spark advance.

Basic advance angle is computed using signals from crankshaft angle (G1), crankshaft speed (Ne), and engine load (Vs or PIM) sensors. Corrective timing factors include adjustments for coolant temperature (THW) and presence of detonation (KNK).

So, this means that the ECU takes the PIM (turbo pressure sensor) signal and specifically uses it to determine it's basic timing factor. This is how the ECU uses boost to set timing maps.

However, it does not use boost to set A/F maps, which is completely seperate, as you already stated above.

[Smile]

Chris

hrmm.. very interesting, in this case then I can understand how the FCD on the PIM wire could screw up some parameters in fueling for our cars! It might be possible that whatever voltage we change the PIM wire into the ECU (via the FCD) will register a psi lower than 12psi, but yet in real life with the ProfecB.. I could be at 16psi. This is not necessarily good, nor bad... damn, means I should be seriously be considering an AFC or so like Nuke was saying.. *doh*

Clayton

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NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

Icon 1 posted January 08, 2004 07:26 PM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
usually with the SAFC people either lean out the over rich stock mixture, or they use larger injectors and lean out to make it run 'right'

This also advances the timing not a great idea there either which is why i said e-manage.

Nuke

--------------------
1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "

Posts: 2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged
Trance4c
Unregistered


Icon 1 posted January 08, 2004 08:42 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Chris Dittrick:
Luni,

From autoshop101.com tech article #23

quote:
Ignition Timing Strategy
The ECU determines ignition timing by comparing engine operating parameters with spark advance values stored in its memory. The general forumula for ignition timing follows:

Initial timing + Basic advance angle + Corrective advance angle = Total spark advance.

Basic advance angle is computed using signals from crankshaft angle (G1), crankshaft speed (Ne), and engine load (Vs or PIM) sensors. Corrective timing factors include adjustments for coolant temperature (THW) and presence of detonation (KNK).

So, this means that the ECU takes the PIM (turbo pressure sensor) signal and specifically uses it to determine it's basic timing factor. This is how the ECU uses boost to set timing maps.

However, it does not use boost to set A/F maps, which is completely seperate, as you already stated above.

[Smile]

Chris

Just curious.. then, what does teh ECU use to detect fuel map at a specific psi? Specifically, what happens with the ECU's fuel maps for fueling once the turbo is over stock fuel cut while an FCD is inline manipulating and making the ECU believe its at a lower than stock fuel cut boost level?

Clayton

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Luni
I had an MR2 first
Member # 92

Icon 1 posted January 08, 2004 11:50 PM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
The ECU uses the AFM for fuel maps. The MAP sensor has nothing to do with it.

Its a proven fact that the car runs with the MAP disconnected. Its also a proven fact that the car contines to make more power after 12 psi on the dyno. And it will do it with the stock MAP sensor disconnected. Your car dont even need it. It needs to be present in the circuit and accounted for, but you disconnect the vacuum hose that goes to it and you turn off the input signal. That does not cause the ECU to modify its fuel maps or timing.

If the ECU thought of it in terms of just PSI like you guys keep saying, then you are screwing yourself by upgrading your turbo because the upgraded supra turbo you are putting in is more efficient and makes more power than your stock CT26. We all know for a fact that boost isnt a constant across turbos. We know that 12 psi on a CT26 is less power than 12 psi on a CT20b. We also know its less than a TD06 or a T3/T4 or whatever bigger, more efficient turbo. But efficiency aside, when the map sensor sees 12 psi, it sees 12 psi so if what chris says it only provides a certain amount of advance, or too much advance, because PSI is PSI no matter what is making it, its the same, number for number.

Thats why I say that PSI has no bearing on fuel maps and tuning on the 3SGTE. Airflow into the engine is a constant. The fuel maps and timing are not measured and locked/unlocked in terms of pressure, they are done in terms of raw airflow.

[ January 09, 2004, 12:01 AM: Message edited by: Luni ]

--------------------
The Weapon: 1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI
Boost Addict representin Toyota on Celica.net
qwst_rcjones@msn.com - AIM: Lunitari420
 -  -

Posts: 10221 | From: c.net administration has no nutz | Registered: Jun 2001  |  IP: Logged
Luni
I had an MR2 first
Member # 92

Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 12:20 AM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Chris I believe, you are wrong. The ECU does not use the MAP sensor in ANY part of the decision making process for timing or a/f maps. Again the only functions our MAPs perform are 1)providing a signal to the stock boost gauge and 2)providing a signal to the ECU to initiate fuel cut.

Thats all it does from everything Ive seen.

--------------------
The Weapon: 1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI
Boost Addict representin Toyota on Celica.net
qwst_rcjones@msn.com - AIM: Lunitari420
 -  -

Posts: 10221 | From: c.net administration has no nutz | Registered: Jun 2001  |  IP: Logged
NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 02:23 AM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
rebert ...

I don't know how the ECU figures out timing, but some of the base timing is set in the distributor position for starters.

Then timing is advanced based on rpm and load on most fuel injected cars. And then retarded by use of the knock sensor if it's over timed. Any fuel injected car should start off with some variation of this basic setup

How does the 3s ECU determine Load ? don't ask me i didn't make it but here's what i'm gonna say....

Facts that i know

1- 3s is an AFM ecu. It uses the AFM to determine fuel and that has NOTHING to do with PSI ... And proof to that is
2- alot of people disconnect hte map sensor like you said and use that to eliminate fuel cut and the cars run the same (for the most part).
3- I know the RC cars in the UK were made to run 18psi instead of 12 by doing 2 things : (and i read this on the UK GT4 board from a guy who worked for TTE) : a) bore out the hole on the wastegate hose port going to the TVSV by a calculated amount. b) make a low level FCD by soldering a zener diode into the ECU circuit board.

Those are 2 facts. and it works on the rally car so what makes it not work for other cars is beyond me .

Fact : most turbocharged cars , or cars that are meant to be modified severly will come from the factory with an air flow meter. Even though it seems more logical to eliminate hte AFM 'restriction' on performance cars like the alltrac, the supra, the camaro, 300zx ..etc they still choose to use air flow meters of various types for cars with high performance in mind ...reason is, ECU's that measure airflow are better equipped to compensate for changes in volumetric effeciency (such as radical cams that kill idle vacuum , or super effecient turbos, new exhaust systems, intake manifold swaps...etc).

Think about it and look at how many performance vehicles you know of with some sort of air flow meter instead of a map sensor. So this is half fact half speculation on my part but i have my resons.

The only catch / take i have on what robert said is that : because the ECU can compensate for massive turbos at higher boost levels doesn't mean you should go to high boost on your factory turbo. Bigger turbos do move more air, but they are also usually more effecient and usually coupled with supplimentary mods like WI or bigger intercoolers which makes the setup actually safer than stock because of the lowered intake charge temps...Assuming you have the fuel to match.

To some extent it may be safer to run TD06 on the stock ECU at 15psi than it is to run a CT-26 at 15psi. Give that you can fuel the TD06 ( TD06 is a bad example because it's ALOT bigger than stock).

When i said people unplugged their map sensors and ran fine for the most part. Well that's for the most part. I know one mr2 member that said he went from a disconnected map to a FCD setup and his 1/4 mile times dropped and his car got noticably faster.

I dunno what to make of that.

Ultimately you have a knock sensor. If you screw up, the knock sensor is there for a reason.

Alot of people say the knock sensor doesn't help you because if you run into any significant knock then 1) you blow the knock sensor before the ECU does anything. 2) your knock sensor is fine but you blow the Engine before your ECU reacts.

Maybe what some people should do is go out and buy a few transistors and create a knock sensor amplifier which would make the ECU more sensitive to knock. However then you'll get into the supra prbolem where your ECU is ALWAYS pulling out as much as 20 degrees of timing at BPU levels. Which is why alot of those kids run race gas for 15-24 psi.

Anyway.

My spiel is done

-Nuke

--------------------
1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "

Posts: 2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged
NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 02:32 AM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I guess an interesting idea at this point is talk to the supra owners on Supra forums or something and see if it's their ECU that is very sensitive to knock input, or if it's their knock sensor that is very sensitive to knock in the engine.

If it their sensor is very sensitive to knock, then swapping that sensor into a 3sgte car may be beneficial in running higher boost levels.

Another person to talk to is G-force.

Nuke

--------------------
1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "

Posts: 2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged
Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits
Member # 5435

Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 03:59 AM      Profile for Chris Dittrick   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
First off, it's awesome to see us getting into some tech debate on this forum. [Smile]

Clayton- For your question on how the ecu determines fuel maps, it uses the AFM to determine how much fuel to supply, completely independent of the map sensor. It doesn't need a load input because it only needs to know if it is at idle, partial, or WOT, which comes from the throttle position sensor. Therefore your fuel maps are not affected...although it may just be dumping in max fuel at that point, which is kinda proven by the AF ratio's people have found the stock engine to have on dyno's. They were extremely rich.

Luni- Take a look at http://www.autoshop101.com/ . That is where I got the quote from...these are TOYOTA training articles. They are not wrong.

I 100% agree with you about how it sets the fuel maps.

The fact is, the MAP sensor is used to set the ignition timing. However, what signal it sends to the ECU when you unplug the hose is a mystery. Someone should find that out. Have you ever watched timing maps on a computer while a car is running? It isnt just one chart, it is constantly changing because they vary depending on load...it's 3 dimensional.

I agree that the car will run, and probably just fine with the map sensor disconnected. This is because the ecu also uses base timing, crank angle, crank speed, and the knock sensors, as well as the map to set timing at a given RPM and load.

However, I can name more than a few people who have blown engines at moderate boost levels while fooling the map signal to the ecu.

Not sure what you are saying about upgrading the turbo... If you upgrade the turbo, then yes I agree, at the same PSI you will make more power on the TD06, or whatever bigger turbo it is. However the ECU will not know that you are using a bigger turbo. It will set timing maps that were created for the CT26 turbo at that psi. This might not even be a bad thing, because you are probably less likely to cause detonation on a TD06 than a CT26 at say 15psi.

So what i'm trying to say, might not be clear because of my typing [Razz] , is that yes the ECU will set teh ignition maps for the CT26 and you will still make more power on your bigger turbo. This is because it pushes more air, and the ECU is able to match it with enough fuel (as long as the fuel system can handle the monster turbo). Therefore, more air/fuel = more power. Ignition timing is as it was on the old turbo and may not be optimal, but it isn't going to hold horsepower constant. Dyno tuning the ignition timing after on an EMS would definitely yield you more power though.

quote:
Originally posted by Luni:
Chris I believe, you are wrong. The ECU does not use the MAP sensor in ANY part of the decision making process for timing or a/f maps. Again the only functions our MAPs perform are 1)providing a signal to the stock boost gauge and 2)providing a signal to the ECU to initiate fuel cut.

Thats all it does from everything Ive seen.

Again check out http://www.autoshop101.com/ . Scroll to article #23, and scroll down until you find my quote. It specifically says that what I said is true. I only said the ECU uses psi for timing maps, not fuel. Fuel maps are set by air flow just like you said. [Smile]

quote:
Originally posted by NuclearHappineS:
rebert ...
Facts that i know

3- I know the RC cars in the UK were made to run 18psi instead of 12 by doing 2 things : (and i read this on the UK GT4 board from a guy who worked for TTE) : a) bore out the hole on the wastegate hose port going to the TVSV by a calculated amount. b) make a low level FCD by soldering a zener diode into the ECU circuit board.

Those are 2 facts. and it works on the rally car so what makes it not work for other cars is beyond me .

When i said people unplugged their map sensors and ran fine for the most part. Well that's for the most part. I know one mr2 member that said he went from a disconnected map to a FCD setup and his 1/4 mile times dropped and his car got noticably faster.

I dunno what to make of that.

Ultimately you have a knock sensor. If you screw up, the knock sensor is there for a reason.

Alot of people say the knock sensor doesn't help you because if you run into any significant knock then 1) you blow the knock sensor before the ECU does anything. 2) your knock sensor is fine but you blow the Engine before your ECU reacts.

My spiel is done

-Nuke

Nuke,

You are 100% correct about the rally cars. They bored out the hole on the TVSV which causes the boost level to increase. They do this because it is not legal under their rules (at least back in the gt4 days) to use an aftermarket boost controller. So this way they were able to make use of the OEM boost regulator to reach higher boost levels. They used a zener diode to eliminate boost cut because what it does is clamp the PIM voltage going to the ECU so that the ECU never sees load higher than 12psi and doesn't hit fuel cut. This way they can bypass fuel cut and increase the boost without breaking the rules.

This DOES work on our cars. I know a few guys who have done it...actually I know a guy that has been involved with TTE for many years and is building a rally ST165 right now...he's doing just this. He's in Australia.

On the 1/4 mile times. Yes this is true. What the FCD will do is curve your load (PIM) signal down by a resistor or something and causes the ecu to not see past 12.8 psi...except it changes the load signal gradually all the way from 0psi up to whatever the FCD is set for. This goes along with my quote from autoshop101. Because the ECU sees less load, it will give the engine MORE timing advance, which in turn yields more horsepower. I also saw in Sport Compact Car's Power Pages (good source I know [Ugh] ), that after the install of an FCD on a Talon they gained 5whp. It's in the power pages issue you can buy on the shelf right now. So this makes perfect sense with what I'm saying.

As for my thoughts on the knock sensor...well my opinion is that it isn't able to retard enough to prevent damage when severe knock is sensed. When I blew my 1st engine it was toast...nothing could be done...knocked like a mother fucker.

Speaking of the supra guys and Gforce I could talk to Reg Reimer, one of the Supra guru tuners, since his shop is like 10 minutes from my house. He does tuning with the same technology as Gforce, the techtom circuit boards. I'm sure he would have some input.

I hope someone takes the time to read this. I know its long but I hope this helps explain some of the mysteries of the OEM ignition timing strategy to everyone...

Cheers all, awesome debate thus far! [Smile]

Chris

--------------------
http://www.gtfour.ca/
1988 ST165 w/185 engine
294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
 -
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to: chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the list! Celica World Race

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Luni
I had an MR2 first
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 10:23 AM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Chris I guess Im an idiot cause I dont see anywhere in that article that states specifically it uses a MAP sensor to determine timing.

It says VS or PIM.

Where on our cars do we have a VS or PIM.
And how do you associate a PIM sensor to mean our MAP sensor.

Im not being a smartass or a dick, I just want to know where you are getting your information from so I we can be on the same page here.

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Luni
I had an MR2 first
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 10:26 AM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Oh and Chris, Talons dont use MAP sensors either. They use AFM. Their fuel cut is determined by the AFM. So what are they using for their PIM sensor?

--------------------
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 11:01 AM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Luni:
Chris I guess Im an idiot cause I dont see anywhere in that article that states specifically it uses a MAP sensor to determine timing.

It says VS or PIM.

Where on our cars do we have a VS or PIM.
And how do you associate a PIM sensor to mean our MAP sensor.

Im not being a smartass or a dick, I just want to know where you are getting your information from so I we can be on the same page here.

The pin in on the ECU for our map sensor is labeled, PIM.

Clayton

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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 11:03 AM      Profile for Chris Dittrick   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Ohhhhhh I see where we are misunderstanding eachother here.

PIM is one of the pins on the alltrac/mr2 ECU. It is the wire that comes from the MAP sensor. The BGB names it "PIM - Turbo Pressure Sensor". It can't use "TPS" because that is used for throttle position sensor. I think PIM stands for pressure in the intake manifold or something to that extent. VS pin is from the AFM. For vane air flow meter or something...edit: VS is for voltage signal from the AFM. [Wink]

Not familiar with the Talon engines, so can't really comment. The reference to the "PIM" wire is specific to toyota engines...although I dont know, the talon may or may not use something similar. [Smile]

I know your not being a dick at all man! It's good to figure this stuff out...we all know our shit and if we have an opinion over the computer it can make us sound mad....I probably did above but didn't mean to at all. [Smile]

-Chris

[ January 09, 2004, 11:14 AM: Message edited by: Chris Dittrick ]

--------------------
http://www.gtfour.ca/
1988 ST165 w/185 engine
294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
 -
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to: chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the list! Celica World Race

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NuclearHappineS
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 11:22 AM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
i;ve seen the voltage curves for the FCD ... maybe 3 years ago...

a voltage clamp allows the voltage to rise however it does to the predetermined ceiling and then it will sharply ceil (i have to draw this)...almost a peicewise linear graph...and then you just round off the where the 2 lines meet ...

the HKS FCD has different settings. The voltage curves on the output of the FCD look like something of the nature of B(1-e^x) and yes it is a gradual trasition. When i first saw it i thought they used some sort of 'amplifier' that eventually saturates ...and when it does it clamps the voltage.

Anyway.

Luni . PIM is the pin name for the map sensor input on the 5sfe. (Fact).

and as far as talons go. They are similar to the VR4. our fuel cut is determined by 2 things :

1- Airflow readings that are off the map (just like what happens when a 5sfe ECU gets a reading from the map sensor that is higher than 3psi) and doesn't have a lookup for it).

2- Excessive knock.

Assuming your problem is #1 , then you can use FCD on your MAS (Mass air sensor... our form of the AFM). And basically the FCD will clamp the voltage output of your mas sensor so that the ECU stays at the maximum possible airflow reading while staying out of fuel cut.

Side effects:

Since the FCD has a modified output curve, thehn the FCD is acting as an SAFC and leaning out both your WOT airflow reading and the readings leading up to that max reading. You are basically telling the ECU that less air is coming in, which leans it out and makes it advance the timing.

Is this a bad thing? Well, if you're running pig rich from the factory then this may not be such a bad thing except for the fact that you have limited linear adjustability on the FCD. And if you need to adjust your a/f ratio in a non linear fashion (say certain rpms have higher VE effeciencies than others) you can't do that...or by messing with your overall curve you may run lean at certain rpms..

You also have your timing advanced because the ECU sees less air really (less boost because it's less CFM at the same intake temp). And that may cause it to advance timing

However, on the vr4 (and i don't know about the talon) timing advance has nothing to do with airflow... Our ecu is agressive ... it uses the knock sensor to measure 'knock count' How many knocks in a given period of time.

here's what the ECU does (these are facts)

0-4 counts -> advance timing
4-8 counts -> maintain timing
8+ counts -> retard timing

And that's it.

So even if you screw up (and i said this before) if you have a good ECU that properly monitors knock you can get away with a not so perfect tune. However if you're tuned horribly and your ECU is constantly raising/lowering your timing your hp will be notchy. If you tune it right and your ECU doesn't have to change timing to compensate for your jumpy a/f ratio then you'll have a smoother power curve.

I'm trying to stick to facts for the most part because there's alot of psuedo knowledge that i have and i could be wrong on some of it. That last part was my psuedo knowledge. Everything before that i believe to be factual or commonly agreed upon (timing advance for less airflow readings)

Nuke

--------------------
1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "

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Trance4c
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 02:25 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Wowa.. a lot of good information here, ok.. so this is what I'm getting from it all.

Nuke - I'm in agreement with you, I believe the cap in voltage that the FCD puts on the PIM signal to the ECU is actually keeping us from the max injector duty! I don't think anyone is going to what was thought to be '100% duty cycle' on the injectors after fuel cut, because once we have manipulated that signal to be lower, well.. its lower. *duh* Thats how I see it.. maybe you see it that way to, don't mean to put words in your mouth. I know our ECU uses the knock sensor which I have been using an ATS adapter and GM knock sensor, its suppose to hold up better. Obviously the car will retard timing once you start to knock, so thats a given.. but thats talking about parameters that we are trying to avoid so shouldn't happen (it does, I know that.. but for this case I'm thinking in a perfect world setting so that is our control).

So the bases of it all is the AFM in then for our 3S-GTE's.. it control's fuel for all intents and purposes for your drive to the grocery store. Ours is a flapper design, obviously the degree at which that door is at a factor in how much fuel is dumped in. Bigger turbo discussion aside for the time being, there is a by-pass passage on the AFM, we need to talk about where that should be set, its a screw setting on the outside of the AFM (on the AFM to turbo side, this is NOT the screw on the inside of the AFM that if adjusted alters your fuel map under the black cap).

Thats where I'm at then.. so what is really happening with that PIM signal once the FCD is inline, does it also play a role in the fueling, or is it strictly AFM controlled. We need to know what variables the ECU uses in its equations to understand how it fuels the car correctly.

?? hrmm...

Clayton

EDIT: "However, I can name more than a few people who have blown engines at moderate boost levels while fooling the map signal to the ecu." Chris.

Ya.. I'm one too.

[ January 09, 2004, 02:27 PM: Message edited by: Trance4c ]

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NuclearHappineS
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 03:49 PM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Some FCD links

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0311it_ppeclipse/index.html

interesting in this link is that boost dropped when they intsalled hte FCD, dropped from 17psi to 15psi. What does this mean ? engine is breathing more? what does this mean ?

I won't say : p

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0202tur_desert/index.html

This car runs piggy back and a FCD ...

Some info

http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/electrical/fcd.html
http://www.mr2.com/ARTICLE/FCD.html

This one is very important. This one shows you what an FCD will do to your voltage curve :

http://www.mr2.com/ARTICLE/HKSFCDat.html

Read up guys

-Nook

--------------------
1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "

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Luni
I had an MR2 first
Member # 92

Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 05:18 PM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Ok Chris you say the VS is off the AFM. Is it possible the ECU uses the VS value for timing and not the PIM sensor?

--------------------
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Luni
I had an MR2 first
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 05:27 PM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Cause it says VS OR PIM sensors.

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Trance4c
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Icon 1 posted January 09, 2004 07:31 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Luni:
Cause it says VS OR PIM sensors.

Ya.. thats very confusing, I wish we could know for sure whats going on.

Truthfully, until we do find out exactly what we're doing to our fuel mixture by adding an FCD, I don't think I'm going to be boosting over stock fuel cut until I get on a dyno and have proof that we have enough fuel. Otherwise I think this might just be another component to why my motor went bad, no serious issues, just worn sleeves and bearings.

Clayton

[ January 10, 2004, 12:03 AM: Message edited by: Trance4c ]

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Icon 1 posted January 10, 2004 04:24 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
hrmm.. ok, from everything I've seen, can anyone answer this question:

Since we have manipulated the signal by the PIM wire to be lower, can we ever really reach the 4.4 volts it requires to hit fuel cut to hit that 100% duty cycle?

Reason I ask, is because if the 100% duty cycle condition happens after the ECU runs out of fuel maps (i.e. after fuel cut) is my understanding when this 100% rich condition happens. I fear that by keeping the reading on the PIM wire into the FCD results in a lower voltage and this affects our air/fuel mixture (going from whatever to 100% rich condition) by keeping us at maybe .92 when we THINK we're in a 100% duty cycle condition and running 100% rich.

Anyone else following what I'm saying? I really want to continue talking about this. I think its a topic that needs to be resolved, how the FCD (PIM signal) effects our fueling (or is it completely controlled by the AFM).

Clayton

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Luni
I had an MR2 first
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Icon 1 posted January 10, 2004 09:01 PM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I still am in firm belief that the VS signal on the AFM takes care of that. There is no explaination for the fact that you can unplug the MAP sensor and the car still runs. It must be getting its engine load data from something else. Something thats crucial and cant be removed.

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Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits
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Icon 1 posted January 10, 2004 09:41 PM      Profile for Chris Dittrick   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Luni,

My opinion is that the ECU uses both signals to create its ignition timing maps. If it didnt, there is absolutely NO explanation from the dyno proven increases in horsepower created from the addition of an FCD. Manipulation of the MAP signal has to affect something that affects horsepower, which for the ECU, can only be the ignition maps. Thats why I can't accept that the PIM signal only affects fuel cut and the boost gauge.

However, I have sent an email to Reg Reimer, of http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/ asking him his opinion. If anyone knows how the ecu operates it is him. If he doesn't respond I will go into his shop and chat with him.

The question is, what signal does the MAP sensor send to the ecu when the hose is unplugged??? If it gives the ECU the worst case scenario, max boost (2 bar), then unplugging it is perfectly safe, although you might lose a little horsepower (retarded ign maps). If it sends the 0 psi (atmosphere) signal then it is much less safe, and you might even gain some power (advanced ign maps). If it sends the signal for zero throttle or no signal at all, it is pretty dangerous (really advanced ign maps). This is one question I do not know the answer to. I will find out. If it is the first case, then unplugging the MAP sensor is the safest FCD you could possibly have. If it is the 3rd, unplugging it is the most dangerous FCD you can have.

Clayton,

The factory ECU would never allow you to hit 100% duty cycle on your injectors. Reason is because they will fail if subjected to that. The ECU has maps up to ~12.8psi, and after that it goes into a "safe" mode and dumps the max allowable fuel in, whatever that duty cycle is, probably 85-90%.

If you would like, I can talk to my friend who is running an upgraded CT26 on 540cc/min injectors on Autronic EMS. I can see what duty cycle he is running for 18psi of boost. If it is quite high then we can assume that 18psi is extremely dangerous on your injectors. I do remember someone calculated the duty cycle @ 18psi on a ct20b and it was dangerously high...but the CT20b will push more air than your upgraded turbo.

I hope everyone sorta follows what I'm saying. I will let you know when I hear from Reg.

I agree, I think resolving this issue could go a long ways to running much safer engines for all of us. [Smile]

Cheers,

Chris

--------------------
http://www.gtfour.ca/
1988 ST165 w/185 engine
294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
 -
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to: chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the list! Celica World Race

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NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
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Icon 1 posted January 11, 2004 01:44 PM      Profile for NuclearHappineS     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
are we talking about unplugging the sensor at the pigtail (wires) or unplugging the hose.

This seems trivial. If you unplug the sensor at the hose and leave it connected to the harness it will always read 0psi ... so if it does in fact affect timing your off boost timing is retarded and your in boost timing will be advanced.

The sensor is just a potentiometer basically. If you unplug it at the wire you should get 0 volts ...which the same as being at MAX vacuum. Now this means (if the ecu uses the map sensor for timing advance) that you will be fixed in maximum timing all the time, unless there is a 'high vacuum' or idle timing map that the ECU goes to below a certain vacuum reading then that's what it would use.

It's not that hard guys. This part is trivial . The hard part is : " does the ECU use this to control timing or not" if it does, all you need to do is construct a voltage clamp with the sharpest transition possible (Almost like a switch...maybe even come up with a pressure based switch and switch back and forth between actual PIM signal and maximum allowable voltage under fuel cut) ...and have this switch pressure triggered at say around 10psi. So the ECU will see every single psi up to 10, and after 10 it will always think it is in max psi which would be somewhere under 12psi.

To find the voltage anybody with an SAFC can wire in the blue wire on the SAFC to the map signal and watch it at 12psi or whatever it cuts at...and design around that.

Last but not least, doing voltage measurements on the MAP outside of the car is not a good idea because in some cars (like my old 5sfe) the ground singal on the PIM/MAP runs to the IAT sensor (intake air temp) ... and so the entire 'vacuum' reading is adjusted / compensated for with temperature.

This is part of why people make Cold air intakes, disconnect the temp sensor on the 5sfe and then the car runs like ass. because it reads colder air, which screws with the map too, which runs it pig rich ...believe me it took 3 years to figure this '$hit' out.

Also those ebay jumpers that short your temp sensor. That does 2 things : 1- puts your ECU into thinking it's always cold => more timing advance. However your coolant temp is operating tmep so you get kicked out of your cold start maps. BUT
2- Your MAP sensor reads less i think at all times...I'm not sure on weather it's more or less but basically you also screw with your a/f ratio because the map reading is also different. And so it may make the claimed hp depending on what your a/f was and what it has become. And how much timing advance you kicked in there.

Nuke

--------------------
1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "

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Trance4c
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Icon 1 posted January 11, 2004 06:37 PM            Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Chris - Ya.. I'm following you here, good points.. but look at what Nuke said, I haven't thought about it this way.

So, our MAP sensor is reading vac, not boost, correct? At least, thats how I understand it from Nuke's post.

If that is the case, then I believe pulling the hose on the MAP sensor is a much better thing to do than to put an FCD in line. Why? Because if Nuke is right and it reads vaccum, well you can't have any less vac than 0. On the other hand, if it does read it in boost.. now the shit hits the fan so to speak.

New question then is: Does the MAP sensor work in vac, or boost to produce its signal on the PIM wire into the ECU?

I would appreciate any information you can get from Reg, I have talked to him a few times via email and I'm sure he will have some input to this.

Nuke - We're talking unplugging the hose, not the wiring plug (you do that, and our cars won't even start, trust me).

How sure are you that the MAP sensor reads vac vs boost? Because why would Fuel Cut in the ECU be set at 12.8psi if all its reading up to is 0psi of vac? That makes no sense to me.

The voltage clamp sounds like an interesting idea, but again.. we're talking about readings over fuel cut which will result in, fuel cut! So how can you get around fuel cut, sending a signal higher than fuel cut to get into these MAX injector cycle's? See what I'm saying? Max injector cycle's are suppose to happen after fuel cut to prevent the car from blowing itself up.. but this has been my point from the beginning, we're artifically moving the point at where fuel cut happens with an FCD and actually shifting these ranges (from 12.8 to 17.2 on the #9 setting or something) upward in the boost range. So if I have an FCD set at 17.2 for fuel cut, my car set at 16psi well shit.. common sense tells me I'll never get into that MAX condition since I've just moved fuel cut up (or down in voltage readings on the PIM wire.. however you want to look at it). On top of that, not only am I not going to hit that MAX condition.. but my 16psi reading now is a lower voltage reading into the ECU thanks to the FCD than 4.4 (which is where fuel cut is initiated) so my fueling for 16psi.. might actually be more like the fuel maps for 12psi. WOWA! That scares me.

Also, idle maps are initiated from the TPS sensor is my understanding. Neither the MAP sensor nor the water temp sensor initiate idle maps for us that I'm aware of.

grr.. creating more questions now than answers.

Clayton

[ January 11, 2004, 06:43 PM: Message edited by: Trance4c ]

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Keyroo
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Member # 191

Icon 1 posted January 11, 2004 07:19 PM      Profile for Keyroo   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
ok so in fear of giving myself a headache this early in the morning, i'm not gonna read all the posts

and clay sorry to but in but this is a conversation i'd like to be a part of but i don't have answers only questsion

as a lot of you will know i'm pulling the engine out my grey gt-4, rebuilding it then swapping the engines (mainly just so i can always have the red car running for transport) the red one will be my fast daily and the grey one is going to be sold on

i am getting the head rebuilt proffesionally and doing the rest mysel,f metal headgasket is the only real peformance thing going on apart from my 5button cermaic clutch,

i want to boost around 14 psi, will this be ok on stock injectors and turbo? im' sure this has been covered and debated but i'd be happy with 14

Matty [Smile]

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LIVING AT FALLS CREEK
TRADED MY WHEELS FOR A PLANK OF WAXED UP WOOD!

2003 Rossignol Proline 153  -
* Daikine Stomp pad studs
* Rossignol Boots
* Lamar Freestyle bindings
(HAHAHAH, so lame)
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Pin striped and proud!!
KEYROO'S LAUNCH VID
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GOT BOOST??? or how about a GT-foursome?
"AWD, make love to your corner"

Posts: 4775 | From: Melbourne Australia | Registered: Jun 2001  |  IP: Logged
Luni
I had an MR2 first
Member # 92

Icon 1 posted January 11, 2004 07:53 PM      Profile for Luni     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Matty as far as this discussion has gone we dont know..

I personally think 14 psi would be fine on a fresh motor. But its said that after 12 psi the engine starts to advance timing (which results in more HP but more dangerous operating parameters).

We dont know for sure on the stock ECU dude. Thats the best answer I can say at this point.

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The Weapon: 1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI
Boost Addict representin Toyota on Celica.net
qwst_rcjones@msn.com - AIM: Lunitari420
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Posts: 10221 | From: c.net administration has no nutz | Registered: Jun 2001  |  IP: Logged


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