| Author
|
Topic:
Understanding the stock ECU: Full dump after Fuel Cut with FCD
talk! |
Trance4c
Unregistered
|
posted January 05, 2004 02:02 AM
Ok... so,
I'm putting a MKIII Supra compressor side 60-1 trim worked
CT26, its in great shape and I like the idea of having it look
stock! I'm also NOT looking to go so high in horsepower to
need a bigger turbo. I'm looking to make 350hp to the wheels
at around 17psi or so.. or thats what I would hope. I would
probably need 100 octane at that psi for good measure. I
expect that I should be able to get up to around 20psi on the
60-1 and get around 370-380 if I run some 114 octane. Now,
this is all being fueled by the stock fuel rail with the stock
440cc injectors. Its a brand new prepped block which was torn
down to the crank and pistons still in the short block. This engine is getting EVERYTHING NEW in stock
form but the TTE 1.4mm hg and ARP head studs. Look down
further in the thread for around 18 pictures of so of my
Celica (orange car.. roommates is the red MKIII) with my 2nd
gen 3S-GTE.
I expect this is how I will operate the
car.. I'm a modest person and just like having an easy car to
drive (FWD and just want 300 range hp) thats a blast in your
pants when you want it with style (I'm very partial to
exotics, hence the look) but also nice enough to let me learn
how to drive well.
I just wanted to see what everyons
opinions are on my setup, what they think the tolances should
be in psi range per octane on street gas, 100, and 114. Also..
if you have read this far what psi do you think it will lean
out on with the stock amount of fuel as the computer dumps
fuel at a 100% duty rate after the stock fuel cut psi level if
I'm correct (correct me if I'm wrong!). So with how much fuel
that is.. what kind of hp do you all think I should be
getting? Stock head and all..just upgraded turbo, intake
(straight pipe 3"), 3" exhaust, 2.75" to 3" Top End
Performance downpipe on a Supra TT fuel pump to feed it all.
Controlled by a Profec B, oil pressure guage, boost and O2 vac
(I know its not really that great, need wideband tuning). I am
planning to get on the dyno once its put together to find out
where it leans out, but just want to do some brain storming
and get others opinions.
Thanks
Clayton
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CelicaPlaya
Dueces Wild Member # 7240
|
posted January 05, 2004 02:19 AM
damn man,
ur car is gonna be fast as balls.
[ January 05,
2004, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: CelicaPlaya
]
--------------------

I'm
as confused as a hungry baby in a topless bar
Posts:
6186 | From: Crestwood, KY | Registered: Apr
2003 | IP: Logged
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Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits Member # 5435
|
posted January 05, 2004 04:13 AM
Heres my
2c.
Getting 350hp to the wheels out of the supra
compressor is going to be damn near impossible. Very few
people can make that power out of the ct turbos period,
regardless of modification. (on the 3sgte)
Are you
using the whole supra turbo? If so, keep in mind that your
twin exit manifold might not flow very well into the single
entry supra turbo. This could cause boost
problems...
Mathematically, you are limited to roughly
270 hp at the wheels on the stock fuel injectors. This is
running at max duty cycle, which is a place you do not want to
be...injectors will fail if run like this for a long time
imho. Usually you wouldnt want to go over a 75-80% duty cycle
or so...
As for the ecu acting after boost cut...i'm
not sure if your wording is right but you have the idea. After
12 psi or so you will get a lot of fuel. Enough for the ct26
for sure. The problem, often overlooked by the mr2 community,
is ignition timing. Depending on what FCD type you use, you
could put your engine at risk for failure. Regardless of
choice however, the timing maps at most will be set for boost
levels of 12psi. That is, you will be seeing much more timing
advance than you would want at 17psi. The mr2 guys go on and
on that it is safe, however time and time again i see engines
drop like flies...mine included. I plan to do a write up on my
opinions of different types of FCD's, because a lot of people
don't see how they can be different and potentially harmful to
your engine.
There are things you can do to help out
the situation. Water injection is a big one. I will be
installing it on my car if it ever warms up around here!
Meanwhile it sits...haha. Another thing that I find VERY cool
is the J&S Safeguard, which basically takes the signal
from your knock sensor and retards timing accordingly when it
senses knock. It isn't perfect because it is a responsive
measure and has to sense knock before it works, however it is
something I'd personally like to look into further. FWIW, I
know that both Pat C. and Perry Beckford, 2 of the fastest
alltracs in the world, use the J&S in combination with
their EMS...that speaks a lot to me.
FWIW, my car will
not see over 12 psi until it gets full engine management, or
something that will control both timing and fuel.
As
for power levels, I'd say you will have a lot of trouble
getting over 300 hp at the wheels without cams. That seems to
be the key to breaking through that barrier to me. Properly
degreed, they really open up the top end of the 3S. And after
that, its up to the tuning to make the best out of it. Tuning
plays a huge role here. Otherwise, you have a new engine
basically, and seem to have done everything right. You might
want to look into an aftermarket FPR, because the stock one
isnt all that great imho. Then tuning...did I already say
that...hmmm if not i'll say it again...twice: tuning and
tuning!
Hope this helps you organize your
thoughts/plans a little better. I know a lot of this you know,
I wanted to put it in writing for some of the newer members we
get here.
btw I have been following your updates, keep
up the work dude your almost there!
Talk to ya
soon,
Chris
-------------------- http://www.gtfour.ca/ 1988 ST165 w/185
engine 294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to:
chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the
list! Celica World Race
Posts:
3414 | From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
Registered: Oct 2002 | IP: Logged
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NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 05, 2004 04:46 AM
Clay
350 to the wheels is what 410 at the crank. CT-26 is
smaller than a T3 isn't it. Even if you have a 60-1 trim in
it, it's like having a T3-60-1
400 hp is T4 territory
if i'm not mistaken. Your turbo is undersized for
one.
This is off turbochargers.com
Application:
Custom CFM: 450 Compressor Wheel: Super 60 T3 Max HP
Rating: 300 Turbine Wheel: 72 w/ 10° clip Price: $695
This internally gated turbo is custom for Honda etc.
See what i'm saying.. compared to the T4s which are
400+ hp.
a T4 60-1 trim :
Application:
Custom CFM: 800 Compressor Wheel: 60-1 Max HP
Rating: 550 Turbine Wheel: Stage 3 Price: $695
This is a custom application for Honda and Mitsubishi.
Compressor inlet is 4". Turbine housing is T3 .48, .63, or .82
.
So no i don't see your 60 trim ct-26 making 350
wheel hp. Crank hp is closer to reality with high psi on high
octane but not at the wheels sorry.
Your injectors
should cover you to roughly 300hp by my numbers so maybe
you'll need to go to 550s or your 440s will just be maxed out.
I know you have a FMIC so you're ok on that side.
As far as what psi to run , I;ve heard of people
running a CT20 on a 2nd gen 3sgte up to 18psi before they had
detonation. After that they used water injection to get
another 3psi out of it. I'm pretty sure they were talking pump
gas with all this going on. This was on an mr2 so it didn't
have a TMIC.
Best thing to do now, if you're serious
about this. Is spend 500 on an emanage.
My friend here
has a single turbo supra. Used to have an AVCR/SAFC combo ...
got him into low 12s. He now has an e-manage and an e-01 and
he says he would never go back. I'm sure he's in the 11s now
so it did help.
Don't waste money on an SAFC. I have
one. I love it. But for 200 more you can control both fuel,
and timing in 3 dimentional maps. So think of that. Other wise
you'll probably get an SAFC and water injection and that will
cost you just as much.
PS, if your head is still off
the car maybe do some research on getting a 1st gen 3sge/3sgte
head. They have larger ports AFAIK.
good luck
Nuke
-------------------- 1991 Celica GT-
for sale - RIP ------------------------ 1991 3000 GT
vr4 BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.
"ALL the
power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by
tuning ! "
Posts:
2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov
2001 | IP: Logged
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Trance4c
Unregistered
|
posted January 05, 2004 01:18 PM
Wow.. great
replies guys! This is exactly the kind of level of
conversation I'm looking for.
NOTE** Higher than 300hp
I'm only looking to pull ONCE on the dyno, just to see what I
can get out of this setup. Otherwise, this car will always see
12psi on the street on pump gas, usually I will run 10psi and
6psi for low boost on a daily basis. If I feel I really do
want to have a race and I have time to prep for it, I will use
114 octane at 16psi and thats as far as I expect to push this
setup. Again, the 20psi pull I just want to do once, just to
see where this car with this turbo stacks up (we have a lack
of good dyno information if you ask me, I have a stock boost
pull on a stock 3S-GTE CT26 and I plan to do stock boost pull
on the CT26 60-1 to see the difference, then a 12,16 and 20psi
pull).
Chris - Water Injection is a must, I am planning
on that.. but it is not a necessity at this point since I know
on the street I do not plan to push it that hard. All I am
looking for is 300hp. I figure at 16psi on the stock CT26 I
was making roughly around 240-250 since 10psi was 198hp @
189ft/lbs of torque. I am not aware of what kind of limits to
push the stock fuel setup to, but I want to stay on the stock
fuel system.. just want this discussion so that I can figure
out what I can expect and how far I feel is safe to push this
setup on the dyno. Its good to know what kind of hp range
peopel think the 440's are good for, so that I don't try to
push for anymore and by chance break something.
I'm
interested in knowing more about this FCD conversion as I'm
not aware that there was a difference either, please keep me
informed on it! Nice thing though is I don't plan to run past
fuel cut anymore and won't be going outside of the stock ECU
parameters except for the dyno pulls.
Once the dyno
pulls are done.. the car will only see 20psi again once I put
in cams (probably in the fall) to see what kind of difference
cams make to this setup.
Nuke - The CT26 is a T4 size
housing but the stock turbo casting is extremely thick, thats
where having the casting bored out and a full 60-1 conversion
with a 54trim on the exhaust wheel makes the difference to get
the kind of performance out of a CT26 turbo. I believe that a
60-1 (essentially a Super 60 turbo) can be capable of 350hp,
but not much more! I have see this particular turbo lay down
over 350hp on a 7M-GTE MKIII Supra before I bought it, so I
know its capable of more!
Again.. thanks for the
replies guys.. this is what I'm looking for! Anymore input is
great.
Clayton
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NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 05, 2004 03:07 PM
good stuff
clay
I still think you should look into an emanage, it
controls :
a-fuel b-spark c-additional injectors
(or water injection through an injector ; ) )
I dunno
if i would give my car 20psi of hell just to prove a number or
add to a registry, that's very nice of you but i don't like
the idea.
"The CT26 is a T4 size housing but the stock
turbo casting is extremely thick"
very cool
!
What else, oh FCD
From what the supra owners
(ken-gmage) and others experience.
The HKS FCD gives a
hiccup on the vac/boost transition. It's a glitchy FCD. The
greddy BCC is supposed to be cool smooth. That was one of the
first things ken changed on the car when he got it.
PS
you may want to look into getting some stock 3sge/3sgte cams
from other years ... or mixing and matching . There may be
some very easy hp to be made there. Look for longer duration,
and less overlap and go from there.
good
luck
nuke
Posts:
2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov
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Trance4c
Unregistered
|
posted January 05, 2004 05:03 PM
Nuke - Ya..
I'm completely with you on the emanage and the cams... I do
plan to do both eventually to finish the car off. But they are
things I can do later.. right now I'm just seeing what it will
put out at base setup for shits and giggles.
As for
the FCD.. hrmm.. I have heard that the MKIII Supra's have that
problem and its better to use the BCC.. but myself and
numerous friends have been using the HKS FCD without problem..
if there is documentation on this, I would defiantely like to
know about it! Just because I haven't had the situation,
doesn't mean its not going to happen to me!!! Thanks for the
reply and keeping an eye out for me.
Clayton
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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 08, 2004 12:11 PM
I am still
inclined to somewhat disagree with the 12 psi fuel map
theory.
The fact of the matter is our ECUs dont measure
a/f ratio by PSI generated by the turbo. It measures it by how
much air goes into the system.
Our AFM takes care of
that. The MAP sensor which measures the PSI is only there to
provide input for the boost gauge and the fuel cut process.
How does the ECU know when 12 PSI has occurred.
And
what about other contingincies like when you put a different
turbo on and it is more or less efficient at the same PSI. How
could the stock computer measure PSI because 12 psi on a TD06
or T3/T4 is MUCH more power than 12 psi on a CT26. And what
about a CT20b? It has more power at a given PSI than a CT26.
And Claytons turbo is more efficient than a stock CT26 so how
would that work.
And I have still never seen any
substantial proof that our ECU "screws up timing after 12 psi"
because from what Ive seen, the 3SGTE dont know what 12 psi is
when its making a/f
decisions.
-------------------- The Weapon: 1991
Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost Addict
representin Toyota on Celica.net qwst_rcjones@msn.com -
AIM: Lunitari420

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10221 | From: c.net administration has no nutz |
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Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits Member # 5435
|
posted January 08, 2004 01:14 PM
Luni,
From autoshop101.com tech article
#23
quote:
Ignition Timing Strategy The ECU determines
ignition timing by comparing engine operating parameters
with spark advance values stored in its memory. The general
forumula for ignition timing follows:
Initial timing
+ Basic advance angle + Corrective advance angle = Total
spark advance.
Basic advance angle is computed using
signals from crankshaft angle (G1), crankshaft speed (Ne),
and engine load (Vs or PIM) sensors. Corrective timing
factors include adjustments for coolant temperature (THW)
and presence of detonation (KNK).
So, this means that the ECU takes the PIM (turbo
pressure sensor) signal and specifically uses it to determine
it's basic timing factor. This is how the ECU uses boost to
set timing maps.
However, it does not use boost to set
A/F maps, which is completely seperate, as you already stated
above.
Chris
[ January 08, 2004,
01:16 PM: Message edited by: Chris Dittrick
]
-------------------- http://www.gtfour.ca/ 1988 ST165 w/185
engine 294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to:
chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the
list! Celica World Race
Posts:
3414 | From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
Registered: Oct 2002 | IP: Logged
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NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 08, 2004 03:44 PM
great info
chris!
Posts:
2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov
2001 | IP: Logged
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Trance4c
Unregistered
|
posted January 08, 2004 06:23 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Chris
Dittrick: Luni,
From autoshop101.com tech
article #23
quote:
Ignition Timing Strategy The ECU
determines ignition timing by comparing engine operating
parameters with spark advance values stored in its memory.
The general forumula for ignition timing
follows:
Initial timing + Basic advance angle +
Corrective advance angle = Total spark
advance.
Basic advance angle is computed using
signals from crankshaft angle (G1), crankshaft speed (Ne),
and engine load (Vs or PIM) sensors. Corrective timing
factors include adjustments for coolant temperature (THW)
and presence of detonation (KNK).
So, this means that the ECU takes the PIM (turbo
pressure sensor) signal and specifically uses it to
determine it's basic timing factor. This is how the ECU uses
boost to set timing maps.
However, it does not use
boost to set A/F maps, which is completely seperate, as you
already stated above.
Chris
hrmm.. very interesting, in this case then I can
understand how the FCD on the PIM wire could screw up some
parameters in fueling for our cars! It might be possible that
whatever voltage we change the PIM wire into the ECU (via the
FCD) will register a psi lower than 12psi, but yet in real
life with the ProfecB.. I could be at 16psi. This is not
necessarily good, nor bad... damn, means I should be seriously
be considering an AFC or so like Nuke was saying..
*doh*
Clayton
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NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 08, 2004 07:26 PM
usually
with the SAFC people either lean out the over rich stock
mixture, or they use larger injectors and lean out to make it
run 'right'
This also advances the timing not a great
idea there either which is why i said
e-manage.
Nuke
-------------------- 1991
Celica GT- for sale - RIP ------------------------ 1991
3000 GT vr4 BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i
think.
"ALL the power is made in the head, all the
power is maintained by tuning ! "
Posts:
2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov
2001 | IP: Logged
| |
Trance4c
Unregistered
|
posted January 08, 2004 08:42 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Chris
Dittrick: Luni,
From autoshop101.com tech
article #23
quote:
Ignition Timing Strategy The ECU
determines ignition timing by comparing engine operating
parameters with spark advance values stored in its memory.
The general forumula for ignition timing
follows:
Initial timing + Basic advance angle +
Corrective advance angle = Total spark
advance.
Basic advance angle is computed using
signals from crankshaft angle (G1), crankshaft speed (Ne),
and engine load (Vs or PIM) sensors. Corrective timing
factors include adjustments for coolant temperature (THW)
and presence of detonation (KNK).
So, this means that the ECU takes the PIM (turbo
pressure sensor) signal and specifically uses it to
determine it's basic timing factor. This is how the ECU uses
boost to set timing maps.
However, it does not use
boost to set A/F maps, which is completely seperate, as you
already stated above.
Chris
Just curious.. then, what does teh ECU use to detect
fuel map at a specific psi? Specifically, what happens with
the ECU's fuel maps for fueling once the turbo is over stock
fuel cut while an FCD is inline manipulating and making the
ECU believe its at a lower than stock fuel cut boost
level?
Clayton
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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 08, 2004 11:50 PM
The ECU
uses the AFM for fuel maps. The MAP sensor has nothing to do
with it.
Its a proven fact that the car runs with the
MAP disconnected. Its also a proven fact that the car contines
to make more power after 12 psi on the dyno. And it will do it
with the stock MAP sensor disconnected. Your car dont even
need it. It needs to be present in the circuit and accounted
for, but you disconnect the vacuum hose that goes to it and
you turn off the input signal. That does not cause the ECU to
modify its fuel maps or timing.
If the ECU thought of
it in terms of just PSI like you guys keep saying, then you
are screwing yourself by upgrading your turbo because the
upgraded supra turbo you are putting in is more efficient and
makes more power than your stock CT26. We all know for a fact
that boost isnt a constant across turbos. We know that 12 psi
on a CT26 is less power than 12 psi on a CT20b. We also know
its less than a TD06 or a T3/T4 or whatever bigger, more
efficient turbo. But efficiency aside, when the map sensor
sees 12 psi, it sees 12 psi so if what chris says it only
provides a certain amount of advance, or too much advance,
because PSI is PSI no matter what is making it, its the same,
number for number.
Thats why I say that PSI has no
bearing on fuel maps and tuning on the 3SGTE. Airflow into the
engine is a constant. The fuel maps and timing are not
measured and locked/unlocked in terms of pressure, they are
done in terms of raw airflow.
[ January 09,
2004, 12:01 AM: Message edited by: Luni
]
-------------------- The Weapon: 1991
Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost Addict
representin Toyota on Celica.net qwst_rcjones@msn.com -
AIM: Lunitari420

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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 09, 2004 12:20 AM
Chris I
believe, you are wrong. The ECU does not use the MAP sensor in
ANY part of the decision making process for timing or a/f
maps. Again the only functions our MAPs perform are
1)providing a signal to the stock boost gauge and 2)providing
a signal to the ECU to initiate fuel cut.
Thats all it
does from everything Ive
seen.
-------------------- The Weapon: 1991 Crimson
Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost Addict representin
Toyota on Celica.net qwst_rcjones@msn.com - AIM:
Lunitari420

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NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 09, 2004 02:23 AM
rebert ...
I don't know how the ECU figures out timing, but some
of the base timing is set in the distributor position for
starters.
Then timing is advanced based on rpm and
load on most fuel injected cars. And then retarded by use of
the knock sensor if it's over timed. Any fuel injected car
should start off with some variation of this basic
setup
How does the 3s ECU determine Load ? don't ask me
i didn't make it but here's what i'm gonna
say....
Facts that i know
1- 3s is an AFM ecu.
It uses the AFM to determine fuel and that has NOTHING to do
with PSI ... And proof to that is 2- alot of people
disconnect hte map sensor like you said and use that to
eliminate fuel cut and the cars run the same (for the most
part). 3- I know the RC cars in the UK were made to run
18psi instead of 12 by doing 2 things : (and i read this on
the UK GT4 board from a guy who worked for TTE) : a) bore out
the hole on the wastegate hose port going to the TVSV by a
calculated amount. b) make a low level FCD by soldering a
zener diode into the ECU circuit board.
Those are 2
facts. and it works on the rally car so what makes it not work
for other cars is beyond me .
Fact : most turbocharged
cars , or cars that are meant to be modified severly will come
from the factory with an air flow meter. Even though it seems
more logical to eliminate hte AFM 'restriction' on performance
cars like the alltrac, the supra, the camaro, 300zx ..etc they
still choose to use air flow meters of various types for cars
with high performance in mind ...reason is, ECU's that measure
airflow are better equipped to compensate for changes in
volumetric effeciency (such as radical cams that kill idle
vacuum , or super effecient turbos, new exhaust systems,
intake manifold swaps...etc).
Think about it and look
at how many performance vehicles you know of with some sort of
air flow meter instead of a map sensor. So this is half fact
half speculation on my part but i have my resons.
The
only catch / take i have on what robert said is that : because
the ECU can compensate for massive turbos at higher boost
levels doesn't mean you should go to high boost on your
factory turbo. Bigger turbos do move more air, but they are
also usually more effecient and usually coupled with
supplimentary mods like WI or bigger intercoolers which makes
the setup actually safer than stock because of the lowered
intake charge temps...Assuming you have the fuel to match.
To some extent it may be safer to run TD06 on the
stock ECU at 15psi than it is to run a CT-26 at 15psi. Give
that you can fuel the TD06 ( TD06 is a bad example because
it's ALOT bigger than stock).
When i said people
unplugged their map sensors and ran fine for the most part.
Well that's for the most part. I know one mr2 member that said
he went from a disconnected map to a FCD setup and his 1/4
mile times dropped and his car got noticably faster.
I
dunno what to make of that.
Ultimately you have a knock
sensor. If you screw up, the knock sensor is there for a
reason.
Alot of people say the knock sensor doesn't
help you because if you run into any significant knock then 1)
you blow the knock sensor before the ECU does anything. 2)
your knock sensor is fine but you blow the Engine before your
ECU reacts.
Maybe what some people should do is go out
and buy a few transistors and create a knock sensor amplifier
which would make the ECU more sensitive to knock. However then
you'll get into the supra prbolem where your ECU is ALWAYS
pulling out as much as 20 degrees of timing at BPU levels.
Which is why alot of those kids run race gas for 15-24
psi.
Anyway.
My spiel is
done
-Nuke
-------------------- 1991 Celica
GT- for sale - RIP ------------------------ 1991 3000 GT
vr4 BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.
"ALL the
power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by
tuning ! "
Posts:
2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov
2001 | IP: Logged
| |
NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 09, 2004 02:32 AM
I guess an
interesting idea at this point is talk to the supra owners on
Supra forums or something and see if it's their ECU that is
very sensitive to knock input, or if it's their knock sensor
that is very sensitive to knock in the engine.
If it
their sensor is very sensitive to knock, then swapping that
sensor into a 3sgte car may be beneficial in running higher
boost levels.
Another person to talk to is G-force.
Nuke
-------------------- 1991 Celica GT-
for sale - RIP ------------------------ 1991 3000 GT
vr4 BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.
"ALL the
power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by
tuning ! "
Posts:
2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov
2001 | IP: Logged
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Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits Member # 5435
|
posted January 09, 2004 03:59 AM
First off,
it's awesome to see us getting into some tech debate on this
forum.
Clayton- For your question on how the ecu
determines fuel maps, it uses the AFM to determine how much
fuel to supply, completely independent of the map sensor. It
doesn't need a load input because it only needs to know if it
is at idle, partial, or WOT, which comes from the throttle
position sensor. Therefore your fuel maps are not
affected...although it may just be dumping in max fuel at that
point, which is kinda proven by the AF ratio's people have
found the stock engine to have on dyno's. They were extremely
rich.
Luni- Take a look at http://www.autoshop101.com/ . That is where
I got the quote from...these are TOYOTA training articles.
They are not wrong.
I 100% agree with you about how it
sets the fuel maps.
The fact is, the MAP sensor is used
to set the ignition timing. However, what signal it sends to
the ECU when you unplug the hose is a mystery. Someone should
find that out. Have you ever watched timing maps on a computer
while a car is running? It isnt just one chart, it is
constantly changing because they vary depending on load...it's
3 dimensional.
I agree that the car will run, and
probably just fine with the map sensor disconnected. This is
because the ecu also uses base timing, crank angle, crank
speed, and the knock sensors, as well as the map to set timing
at a given RPM and load.
However, I can name more than
a few people who have blown engines at moderate boost levels
while fooling the map signal to the ecu.
Not sure what
you are saying about upgrading the turbo... If you upgrade the
turbo, then yes I agree, at the same PSI you will make more
power on the TD06, or whatever bigger turbo it is. However the
ECU will not know that you are using a bigger turbo. It will
set timing maps that were created for the CT26 turbo at that
psi. This might not even be a bad thing, because you are
probably less likely to cause detonation on a TD06 than a CT26
at say 15psi.
So what i'm trying to say, might not be
clear because of my typing , is that yes the ECU will set teh ignition maps for
the CT26 and you will still make more power on your bigger
turbo. This is because it pushes more air, and the ECU is able
to match it with enough fuel (as long as the fuel system can
handle the monster turbo). Therefore, more air/fuel = more
power. Ignition timing is as it was on the old turbo and may
not be optimal, but it isn't going to hold horsepower
constant. Dyno tuning the ignition timing after on an EMS
would definitely yield you more power though.
quote:
Originally posted by Luni: Chris I
believe, you are wrong. The ECU does not use the MAP sensor
in ANY part of the decision making process for timing or a/f
maps. Again the only functions our MAPs perform are
1)providing a signal to the stock boost gauge and
2)providing a signal to the ECU to initiate fuel cut.
Thats all it does from everything Ive
seen.
Again check out http://www.autoshop101.com/ . Scroll to
article #23, and scroll down until you find my quote. It
specifically says that what I said is true. I only said the
ECU uses psi for timing maps, not fuel. Fuel maps are set by
air flow just like you said.
quote:
Originally posted by
NuclearHappineS: rebert ... Facts that i
know
3- I know the RC cars in the UK were made to run
18psi instead of 12 by doing 2 things : (and i read this on
the UK GT4 board from a guy who worked for TTE) : a) bore
out the hole on the wastegate hose port going to the TVSV by
a calculated amount. b) make a low level FCD by soldering a
zener diode into the ECU circuit board.
Those are 2
facts. and it works on the rally car so what makes it not
work for other cars is beyond me .
When i said people
unplugged their map sensors and ran fine for the most part.
Well that's for the most part. I know one mr2 member that
said he went from a disconnected map to a FCD setup and his
1/4 mile times dropped and his car got noticably faster.
I dunno what to make of that.
Ultimately you
have a knock sensor. If you screw up, the knock sensor is
there for a reason.
Alot of people say the knock
sensor doesn't help you because if you run into any
significant knock then 1) you blow the knock sensor before
the ECU does anything. 2) your knock sensor is fine but you
blow the Engine before your ECU reacts.
My spiel is
done
-Nuke
Nuke,
You are 100% correct about the rally cars.
They bored out the hole on the TVSV which causes the boost
level to increase. They do this because it is not legal under
their rules (at least back in the gt4 days) to use an
aftermarket boost controller. So this way they were able to
make use of the OEM boost regulator to reach higher boost
levels. They used a zener diode to eliminate boost cut because
what it does is clamp the PIM voltage going to the ECU so that
the ECU never sees load higher than 12psi and doesn't hit fuel
cut. This way they can bypass fuel cut and increase the boost
without breaking the rules.
This DOES work on our cars.
I know a few guys who have done it...actually I know a guy
that has been involved with TTE for many years and is building
a rally ST165 right now...he's doing just this. He's in
Australia.
On the 1/4 mile times. Yes this is true.
What the FCD will do is curve your load (PIM) signal down by a
resistor or something and causes the ecu to not see past 12.8
psi...except it changes the load signal gradually all the way
from 0psi up to whatever the FCD is set for. This goes along
with my quote from autoshop101. Because the ECU sees less
load, it will give the engine MORE timing advance, which in
turn yields more horsepower. I also saw in Sport Compact Car's
Power Pages (good source I know ), that after the install of an FCD on a Talon they
gained 5whp. It's in the power pages issue you can buy on the
shelf right now. So this makes perfect sense with what I'm
saying.
As for my thoughts on the knock sensor...well
my opinion is that it isn't able to retard enough to prevent
damage when severe knock is sensed. When I blew my 1st engine
it was toast...nothing could be done...knocked like a mother
fucker.
Speaking of the supra guys and Gforce I could
talk to Reg Reimer, one of the Supra guru tuners, since his
shop is like 10 minutes from my house. He does tuning with the
same technology as Gforce, the techtom circuit boards. I'm
sure he would have some input.
I hope someone takes the
time to read this. I know its long but I hope this helps
explain some of the mysteries of the OEM ignition timing
strategy to everyone...
Cheers all, awesome debate thus
far!
Chris
-------------------- http://www.gtfour.ca/ 1988 ST165 w/185
engine 294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to:
chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the
list! Celica World Race
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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 09, 2004 10:23 AM
Chris I
guess Im an idiot cause I dont see anywhere in that article
that states specifically it uses a MAP sensor to determine
timing.
It says VS or PIM.
Where on our cars do
we have a VS or PIM. And how do you associate a PIM sensor
to mean our MAP sensor.
Im not being a smartass or a
dick, I just want to know where you are getting your
information from so I we can be on the same page here.
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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 09, 2004 10:26 AM
Oh and
Chris, Talons dont use MAP sensors either. They use AFM. Their
fuel cut is determined by the AFM. So what are they using for
their PIM sensor?
-------------------- The Weapon:
1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost Addict
representin Toyota on Celica.net qwst_rcjones@msn.com -
AIM: Lunitari420

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Trance4c
Unregistered
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posted January 09, 2004 11:01 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Luni: Chris I guess
Im an idiot cause I dont see anywhere in that article that
states specifically it uses a MAP sensor to determine
timing.
It says VS or PIM.
Where on our cars
do we have a VS or PIM. And how do you associate a PIM
sensor to mean our MAP sensor.
Im not being a
smartass or a dick, I just want to know where you are
getting your information from so I we can be on the same
page here.
The pin in on the ECU for our map sensor is labeled,
PIM.
Clayton
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Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits Member # 5435
|
posted January 09, 2004 11:03 AM
Ohhhhhh I
see where we are misunderstanding eachother here.
PIM
is one of the pins on the alltrac/mr2 ECU. It is the wire that
comes from the MAP sensor. The BGB names it "PIM - Turbo
Pressure Sensor". It can't use "TPS" because that is used for
throttle position sensor. I think PIM stands for pressure in
the intake manifold or something to that extent. VS pin is
from the AFM. For vane air flow meter or something...edit: VS
is for voltage signal from the AFM.
Not familiar with the Talon engines, so
can't really comment. The reference to the "PIM" wire is
specific to toyota engines...although I dont know, the talon
may or may not use something similar.
I know your not being a dick at all man!
It's good to figure this stuff out...we all know our shit and
if we have an opinion over the computer it can make us sound
mad....I probably did above but didn't mean to at all.
-Chris
[ January 09, 2004,
11:14 AM: Message edited by: Chris Dittrick
]
-------------------- http://www.gtfour.ca/ 1988 ST165 w/185
engine 294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to:
chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the
list! Celica World Race
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NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 09, 2004 11:22 AM
i;ve seen
the voltage curves for the FCD ... maybe 3 years ago...
a voltage clamp allows the voltage to rise however it
does to the predetermined ceiling and then it will sharply
ceil (i have to draw this)...almost a peicewise linear
graph...and then you just round off the where the 2 lines meet
...
the HKS FCD has different settings. The voltage
curves on the output of the FCD look like something of the
nature of B(1-e^x) and yes it is a gradual trasition. When i
first saw it i thought they used some sort of 'amplifier' that
eventually saturates ...and when it does it clamps the
voltage.
Anyway.
Luni . PIM is the pin name
for the map sensor input on the 5sfe. (Fact).
and as
far as talons go. They are similar to the VR4. our fuel cut is
determined by 2 things :
1- Airflow readings that are
off the map (just like what happens when a 5sfe ECU gets a
reading from the map sensor that is higher than 3psi) and
doesn't have a lookup for it).
2- Excessive
knock.
Assuming your problem is #1 , then you can use
FCD on your MAS (Mass air sensor... our form of the AFM). And
basically the FCD will clamp the voltage output of your mas
sensor so that the ECU stays at the maximum possible airflow
reading while staying out of fuel cut.
Side effects:
Since the FCD has a modified output curve, thehn the
FCD is acting as an SAFC and leaning out both your WOT airflow
reading and the readings leading up to that max reading. You
are basically telling the ECU that less air is coming in,
which leans it out and makes it advance the timing.
Is
this a bad thing? Well, if you're running pig rich from the
factory then this may not be such a bad thing except for the
fact that you have limited linear adjustability on the FCD.
And if you need to adjust your a/f ratio in a non linear
fashion (say certain rpms have higher VE effeciencies than
others) you can't do that...or by messing with your overall
curve you may run lean at certain rpms..
You also have
your timing advanced because the ECU sees less air really
(less boost because it's less CFM at the same intake temp).
And that may cause it to advance timing
However, on the
vr4 (and i don't know about the talon) timing advance has
nothing to do with airflow... Our ecu is agressive ... it uses
the knock sensor to measure 'knock count' How many knocks in a
given period of time.
here's what the ECU does (these
are facts)
0-4 counts -> advance timing 4-8
counts -> maintain timing 8+ counts -> retard
timing
And that's it.
So even if you screw up
(and i said this before) if you have a good ECU that properly
monitors knock you can get away with a not so perfect tune.
However if you're tuned horribly and your ECU is constantly
raising/lowering your timing your hp will be notchy. If you
tune it right and your ECU doesn't have to change timing to
compensate for your jumpy a/f ratio then you'll have a
smoother power curve.
I'm trying to stick to facts for
the most part because there's alot of psuedo knowledge that i
have and i could be wrong on some of it. That last part was my
psuedo knowledge. Everything before that i believe to be
factual or commonly agreed upon (timing advance for less
airflow
readings)
Nuke
-------------------- 1991
Celica GT- for sale - RIP ------------------------ 1991
3000 GT vr4 BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i
think.
"ALL the power is made in the head, all the
power is maintained by tuning ! "
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Trance4c
Unregistered
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posted January 09, 2004 02:25 PM
Wowa.. a
lot of good information here, ok.. so this is what I'm getting
from it all.
Nuke - I'm in agreement with you, I
believe the cap in voltage that the FCD puts on the PIM signal
to the ECU is actually keeping us from the max injector duty!
I don't think anyone is going to what was thought to be '100%
duty cycle' on the injectors after fuel cut, because once we
have manipulated that signal to be lower, well.. its lower.
*duh* Thats how I see it.. maybe you see it that way to, don't
mean to put words in your mouth. I know our ECU uses the knock
sensor which I have been using an ATS adapter and GM knock
sensor, its suppose to hold up better. Obviously the car will
retard timing once you start to knock, so thats a given.. but
thats talking about parameters that we are trying to avoid so
shouldn't happen (it does, I know that.. but for this case I'm
thinking in a perfect world setting so that is our
control).
So the bases of it all is the AFM in then for
our 3S-GTE's.. it control's fuel for all intents and purposes
for your drive to the grocery store. Ours is a flapper design,
obviously the degree at which that door is at a factor in how
much fuel is dumped in. Bigger turbo discussion aside for the
time being, there is a by-pass passage on the AFM, we need to
talk about where that should be set, its a screw setting on
the outside of the AFM (on the AFM to turbo side, this is NOT
the screw on the inside of the AFM that if adjusted alters
your fuel map under the black cap).
Thats where I'm at
then.. so what is really happening with that PIM signal once
the FCD is inline, does it also play a role in the fueling, or
is it strictly AFM controlled. We need to know what variables
the ECU uses in its equations to understand how it fuels the
car correctly.
?? hrmm...
Clayton
EDIT:
"However, I can name more than a few people who have blown
engines at moderate boost levels while fooling the map signal
to the ecu." Chris.
Ya.. I'm one too.
[
January 09, 2004, 02:27 PM: Message edited by: Trance4c
]
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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
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posted January 09, 2004 05:18 PM
Ok Chris
you say the VS is off the AFM. Is it possible the ECU uses the
VS value for timing and not the PIM
sensor?
-------------------- The Weapon: 1991
Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost Addict
representin Toyota on Celica.net qwst_rcjones@msn.com -
AIM: Lunitari420

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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 09, 2004 05:27 PM
Cause it
says VS OR PIM sensors.
-------------------- The
Weapon: 1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost
Addict representin Toyota on Celica.net
qwst_rcjones@msn.com - AIM: Lunitari420

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Trance4c
Unregistered
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posted January 09, 2004 07:31 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Luni: Cause it says
VS OR PIM sensors.
Ya.. thats very confusing, I wish we could know for
sure whats going on.
Truthfully, until we do find out
exactly what we're doing to our fuel mixture by adding an FCD,
I don't think I'm going to be boosting over stock fuel cut
until I get on a dyno and have proof that we have enough fuel.
Otherwise I think this might just be another component to why
my motor went bad, no serious issues, just worn sleeves and
bearings.
Clayton
[ January 10, 2004,
12:03 AM: Message edited by: Trance4c ]
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Trance4c
Unregistered
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posted January 10, 2004 04:24 PM
hrmm.. ok,
from everything I've seen, can anyone answer this
question:
Since we have manipulated the signal by the
PIM wire to be lower, can we ever really reach the 4.4 volts
it requires to hit fuel cut to hit that 100% duty
cycle?
Reason I ask, is because if the 100% duty cycle
condition happens after the ECU runs out of fuel maps (i.e.
after fuel cut) is my understanding when this 100% rich
condition happens. I fear that by keeping the reading on the
PIM wire into the FCD results in a lower voltage and this
affects our air/fuel mixture (going from whatever to 100% rich
condition) by keeping us at maybe .92 when we THINK we're in a
100% duty cycle condition and running 100% rich.
Anyone
else following what I'm saying? I really want to continue
talking about this. I think its a topic that needs to be
resolved, how the FCD (PIM signal) effects our fueling (or is
it completely controlled by the AFM).
Clayton
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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 10, 2004 09:01 PM
I still am
in firm belief that the VS signal on the AFM takes care of
that. There is no explaination for the fact that you can
unplug the MAP sensor and the car still runs. It must be
getting its engine load data from something else. Something
thats crucial and cant be
removed.
-------------------- The Weapon: 1991
Crimson Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost Addict
representin Toyota on Celica.net qwst_rcjones@msn.com -
AIM: Lunitari420

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Chris Dittrick
When Boost Hits Member # 5435
|
posted January 10, 2004 09:41 PM
Luni,
My opinion is that the ECU uses both
signals to create its ignition timing maps. If it didnt, there
is absolutely NO explanation from the dyno proven increases in
horsepower created from the addition of an FCD. Manipulation
of the MAP signal has to affect something that affects
horsepower, which for the ECU, can only be the ignition maps.
Thats why I can't accept that the PIM signal only affects fuel
cut and the boost gauge.
However, I have sent an email
to Reg Reimer, of http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/ asking him
his opinion. If anyone knows how the ecu operates it is him.
If he doesn't respond I will go into his shop and chat with
him.
The question is, what signal does the MAP sensor
send to the ecu when the hose is unplugged??? If it gives the
ECU the worst case scenario, max boost (2 bar), then
unplugging it is perfectly safe, although you might lose a
little horsepower (retarded ign maps). If it sends the 0 psi
(atmosphere) signal then it is much less safe, and you might
even gain some power (advanced ign maps). If it sends the
signal for zero throttle or no signal at all, it is pretty
dangerous (really advanced ign maps). This is one question I
do not know the answer to. I will find out. If it is the first
case, then unplugging the MAP sensor is the safest FCD you
could possibly have. If it is the 3rd, unplugging it is the
most dangerous FCD you can have.
Clayton,
The
factory ECU would never allow you to hit 100% duty cycle on
your injectors. Reason is because they will fail if subjected
to that. The ECU has maps up to ~12.8psi, and after that it
goes into a "safe" mode and dumps the max allowable fuel in,
whatever that duty cycle is, probably 85-90%.
If you
would like, I can talk to my friend who is running an upgraded
CT26 on 540cc/min injectors on Autronic EMS. I can see what
duty cycle he is running for 18psi of boost. If it is quite
high then we can assume that 18psi is extremely dangerous on
your injectors. I do remember someone calculated the duty
cycle @ 18psi on a ct20b and it was dangerously high...but the
CT20b will push more air than your upgraded turbo.
I
hope everyone sorta follows what I'm saying. I will let you
know when I hear from Reg.
I agree, I think resolving
this issue could go a long ways to running much safer engines
for all of us.
Cheers,
Chris
-------------------- http://www.gtfour.ca/ 1988 ST165 w/185
engine 294HP, 292ft-lbs / 240WHP, 238ft-lbs, 12psi
Raced your Celica down the drag strip? PM me or send me an Email to:
chris@gtfour.ca with your details so I can add you to the
list! Celica World Race
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NuclearHappineS my nuke is faster
than yours Member # 1641
|
posted January 11, 2004 01:44 PM
are we
talking about unplugging the sensor at the pigtail (wires) or
unplugging the hose.
This seems trivial. If you unplug
the sensor at the hose and leave it connected to the harness
it will always read 0psi ... so if it does in fact affect
timing your off boost timing is retarded and your in boost
timing will be advanced.
The sensor is just a
potentiometer basically. If you unplug it at the wire you
should get 0 volts ...which the same as being at MAX vacuum.
Now this means (if the ecu uses the map sensor for timing
advance) that you will be fixed in maximum timing all the
time, unless there is a 'high vacuum' or idle timing map that
the ECU goes to below a certain vacuum reading then that's
what it would use.
It's not that hard guys. This part
is trivial . The hard part is : " does the ECU use this to
control timing or not" if it does, all you need to do is
construct a voltage clamp with the sharpest transition
possible (Almost like a switch...maybe even come up with a
pressure based switch and switch back and forth between actual
PIM signal and maximum allowable voltage under fuel cut)
...and have this switch pressure triggered at say around
10psi. So the ECU will see every single psi up to 10, and
after 10 it will always think it is in max psi which would be
somewhere under 12psi.
To find the voltage anybody
with an SAFC can wire in the blue wire on the SAFC to the map
signal and watch it at 12psi or whatever it cuts at...and
design around that.
Last but not least, doing voltage
measurements on the MAP outside of the car is not a good idea
because in some cars (like my old 5sfe) the ground singal on
the PIM/MAP runs to the IAT sensor (intake air temp) ... and
so the entire 'vacuum' reading is adjusted / compensated for
with temperature.
This is part of why people make Cold
air intakes, disconnect the temp sensor on the 5sfe and then
the car runs like ass. because it reads colder air, which
screws with the map too, which runs it pig rich ...believe me
it took 3 years to figure this '$hit' out.
Also those
ebay jumpers that short your temp sensor. That does 2 things :
1- puts your ECU into thinking it's always cold => more
timing advance. However your coolant temp is operating tmep so
you get kicked out of your cold start maps. BUT 2- Your
MAP sensor reads less i think at all times...I'm not sure on
weather it's more or less but basically you also screw with
your a/f ratio because the map reading is also different. And
so it may make the claimed hp depending on what your a/f was
and what it has become. And how much timing advance you kicked
in there.
Nuke
-------------------- 1991
Celica GT- for sale - RIP ------------------------ 1991
3000 GT vr4 BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i
think.
"ALL the power is made in the head, all the
power is maintained by tuning ! "
Posts:
2451 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov
2001 | IP: Logged
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Trance4c
Unregistered
|
posted January 11, 2004 06:37 PM
Chris -
Ya.. I'm following you here, good points.. but look at what
Nuke said, I haven't thought about it this way.
So, our
MAP sensor is reading vac, not boost, correct? At least, thats
how I understand it from Nuke's post.
If that is the
case, then I believe pulling the hose on the MAP sensor is a
much better thing to do than to put an FCD in line. Why?
Because if Nuke is right and it reads vaccum, well you can't
have any less vac than 0. On the other hand, if it does read
it in boost.. now the shit hits the fan so to
speak.
New question then is: Does the MAP sensor work
in vac, or boost to produce its signal on the PIM wire into
the ECU?
I would appreciate any information you can get
from Reg, I have talked to him a few times via email and I'm
sure he will have some input to this.
Nuke - We're
talking unplugging the hose, not the wiring plug (you do that,
and our cars won't even start, trust me).
How sure are
you that the MAP sensor reads vac vs boost? Because why would
Fuel Cut in the ECU be set at 12.8psi if all its reading up to
is 0psi of vac? That makes no sense to me.
The voltage
clamp sounds like an interesting idea, but again.. we're
talking about readings over fuel cut which will result in,
fuel cut! So how can you get around fuel cut, sending a signal
higher than fuel cut to get into these MAX injector cycle's?
See what I'm saying? Max injector cycle's are suppose to
happen after fuel cut to prevent the car from blowing itself
up.. but this has been my point from the beginning, we're
artifically moving the point at where fuel cut happens with an
FCD and actually shifting these ranges (from 12.8 to 17.2 on
the #9 setting or something) upward in the boost range. So if
I have an FCD set at 17.2 for fuel cut, my car set at 16psi
well shit.. common sense tells me I'll never get into that MAX
condition since I've just moved fuel cut up (or down in
voltage readings on the PIM wire.. however you want to look at
it). On top of that, not only am I not going to hit that MAX
condition.. but my 16psi reading now is a lower voltage
reading into the ECU thanks to the FCD than 4.4 (which is
where fuel cut is initiated) so my fueling for 16psi.. might
actually be more like the fuel maps for 12psi. WOWA! That
scares me.
Also, idle maps are initiated from the TPS
sensor is my understanding. Neither the MAP sensor nor the
water temp sensor initiate idle maps for us that I'm aware
of.
grr.. creating more questions now than
answers.
Clayton
[ January 11, 2004,
06:43 PM: Message edited by: Trance4c ]
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Keyroo
celica.net Aussie Rep Member # 191
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posted January 11, 2004 07:19 PM
ok so in
fear of giving myself a headache this early in the morning,
i'm not gonna read all the posts
and clay sorry to but
in but this is a conversation i'd like to be a part of but i
don't have answers only questsion
as a lot of you will
know i'm pulling the engine out my grey gt-4, rebuilding it
then swapping the engines (mainly just so i can always have
the red car running for transport) the red one will be my fast
daily and the grey one is going to be sold on
i am
getting the head rebuilt proffesionally and doing the rest
mysel,f metal headgasket is the only real peformance thing
going on apart from my 5button cermaic clutch,
i want
to boost around 14 psi, will this be ok on stock injectors and
turbo? im' sure this has been covered and debated but i'd be
happy with 14
Matty ![[Smile]](The Celica Files Understanding the stock ECU Full dump after Fuel Cut with FCD talk!1_files/smile.gif)
-------------------- LIVING AT FALLS
CREEK TRADED MY WHEELS FOR A PLANK OF WAXED UP
WOOD!
2003 Rossignol Proline 153  *
Daikine Stomp pad studs * Rossignol Boots * Lamar
Freestyle bindings (HAHAHAH, so
lame) ******************************************* Pin
striped and proud!! KEYROO'S LAUNCH VID
GOT BOOST??? or how about a GT-foursome? "AWD, make
love to your corner"
Posts:
4775 | From: Melbourne Australia | Registered:
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Luni
I had an MR2 first Member # 92
|
posted January 11, 2004 07:53 PM
Matty as
far as this discussion has gone we dont know..
I
personally think 14 psi would be fine on a fresh motor. But
its said that after 12 psi the engine starts to advance timing
(which results in more HP but more dangerous operating
parameters).
We dont know for sure on the stock ECU
dude. Thats the best answer I can say at this
point.
-------------------- The Weapon: 1991 Crimson
Red MR2 Turbo T-Tops - 16 PSI Boost Addict representin
Toyota on Celica.net qwst_rcjones@msn.com - AIM:
Lunitari420

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