Overview
Welcome to the Original DIY alky page.
60,000 performance enthusiasts have visited this page! I hope you find information here to help you achieve the level of performance you're looking for with your forced induction vehicle.
What you'll find here is a step by step guide for building a very reliable water/alcohol injection system. I've used this system since 1996 and it's been installed on more then 30 local cars plus probably thousands of others have built systems based on the information here.
This page is ONLY here to provide information necessary for someone with a moderate amount of mechanical skills to build their own alcohol injection system. I sell no products related to Alky kits.
I've often seen people ask who makes the best alky kit and I have the opinion that I have the best kit available. (must be good or MS Snow, Cooling Mist and half a dozen other marketing type ya-hoos wouldn't have copied it for their own profit) Well, seriously, Julio Dion at Alky Control makes a better kit but it's basically my kit with more money thrown at it and a McMaster-Carr oil burner nozzle which atomizes better than my NOS nozzle does. He also offers a progressive controller that increases pump voltage according to boost. Very nice feature for those who don't have the correct combo on their car. The Original DIY kit shown here works excellent on both my Turbo Buick powered cars. It's still identical to the setup I installed 8 years ago and I don't intend to change it.
The components used have shown to be very reliable and of the best quality available. If this kit looks familiar, yes, there are people who have copied this system and are selling it under various names. I have no affiliation with anyone selling off the shelf alcohol injection systems. To be certain your kit is of the best quality, I suggest you buy the components yourself from the information you see here.
Before you begin, it would be a good idea give some thought to the things that can happen should your car not be in sound mechanical condition and be capable to withstand the 5 to 10 additional pounds of boost. To avoid serious engine damage, I suggest you read through the Maintenance page.
The average person can install this kit in 4 hours and when you're finished, you'll have around $170 invested in an alky system that's capable of supporting almost any street driven car. (it's currently in use on a friends M&A headed Stage 2 Turbo Regal using a .045" jet with the pump pressure screw turned in)
If desired, it's easy to add on to the basic kit shown here to turn it into a multi-staged progressive controller style system without having to begin at square one. The Shurflo pump listed is capable of supplying over 130 psi via the small adjusting screw on the pressure switch. By stepping the voltage down to 6V & raising the pressure, the pump will maintain a more constant pressure. I haven't found the pump surge to cause any effect on either of my cars but you may want to do this depending on your application.
I've been using this system since 1996 and have installed it on many local cars with positive results. It was my intention to overcome the drop in performance between race trim & street tune with my then mid-12 second 1986 GN. At the time this was done, only one system was being marketed but it used a low pressure pump and required a pressurized reservoir with a boost line plumbed in. The system was just too conspicuous and looked as though it didn't belong under the hood. The DIY kit can be installed so that it most people would not even notice it. See Mark Hueffmans' setup for a good example
The Shurflo pump I use is safe to use with denatured (ethanol) and isopropyl alcohol and the pressure can be adjusted above the preset 60 psi to more than double that amount. While many are using it with Methanol I can't offer experience with that fluid except to say some have reported leakage at the o-ring under the pressure switch. Ethanol works well for me and I have a source that sells it for $25 for a 5 gallon can.
Your nozzle choice will determine the amount of atomization the pump delivers but a standard NOS fanspray nozzle & jet works fine for most applications. If you desire optimum atomization, an oil burner nozzle like those sold be McMaster Carr or the Aquamist nozzles are good choices also.
I've included some links to other alcohol systems and welcome contributions from others to manufacturers or other systems to add to this page. Anyone considering an alcohol system should seriously consider the types available. The intent of this page is to offer my experiences and to inform those interested in making their own kits of the safety precautions they should include in the system.
It's strongly advised that a knock detector and or a Scan Tool be used in conjunction with an Alcohol Injection system.
Parts List
Fan spray body, from NOS, #13500 (Summit)
Jet, NOS, #13750-30, (.030") (Summit)
*Inline fuel filter
Fuse link
Pump, 12Volt, 7amp, 1.5gpm@60psi. #2687 Northern Hyd,
Pressure switch, NOS #15680 (15 psi Normally Open
Fuel hose, 1/4" X 8ft.
Fuel hose, short, 5/16" X 3"
Relay, 30A, 12Volt
Inline fuse holder
Fuse,
Clamps, 10ea.
Zip ties.
Electric wire & connectors
3/8" NPT to 1/4" hose adapters, 2ea
*One way check valve GM #14047619
Vacuum Tee
#3 AN Fem. Hose end, Earls Perf. #600193
1/8"NPT X 1/4" dia brass hose barb to adapt short 5/16" hose to reservoir.
Optional Parts:
Float sending unit to mount in Radiator overflow tank, GM #1639226
In car LED for float unit, Radio Shack
In car switch for manually overriding pressure switch to disable the system.
LED for pump. Shows when the pump is activated.
* - I no longer use a check valve since the pump's built in CV has shown to be reliable but you may want an extra margin of safety if you are using a flammable mixture of alky.
* - I've also quit using a fuel filter but it may be needed if you aren't starting out with a new alky storage container.
Alcohol Mixture
Use 1 part denatured alc. to 2 parts distilled water. This concentration is not flammable. The approximate mixture of alc. to water of 50% or greater can ignite if the reservoir or a line developed a leak. Types of Alc. is up to the user. The system will also perform well on water alone though the cooling benefit that alcohol provides reduces the air charge temperature by a significant amount. I use Denatured (ethanol) Alc. which is available at hardware stores in the Paint Dept. A gallon lasts for months & costs about $10 /gl.
Safety Notes: The pump manufacturer recommends a flashpoint of no less than 110 degrees with this pump (continuous use was implied by their engineer ) knowing that it only takes about 12 seconds to roast a little horsemeat, continuous operation shouldn't be needed for your application.
Installation:
Begin with a new or clean reservoir. A float sending unit is mounted in the top of mine. The float lights an LED mounted inside the car when the level is low. Slip the 5/16" short hose over the reservoir nipple and secure with a clamp. Insert the pipe threaded end of the brass 1/8"NPT X 1/4" hose barb into the end of the 5/16" hose and attach the 1/4" X 8' hose to the 1/4" hose barb end. Clamp securely.
Route the 1/4" hose to the radiator and install the *check valve. In the photo, the check valve can be seen next to the radiator cap. Install it so flow is allowed from the reservoir to the pump. Zip tie the 1/4" hose to the AC lines along the top of the radiator then run the line down behind the drivers side headlight area and install the *fuel filter. Cut another section of hose to route to the pump.
Install the hose adapter in the pump with teflon tape and install the hose with the clamp. Note: The inlet side of the pump is the side where the red wires connect at the top.
Mount the pump using 4 1.5"L screws through the holes in the rubber pads. You'll need to drill holes in the plastic inner fender and go underneath to attach the nuts. I chose the location where the charcoal can was located from the factory.
Install the outlet hose connector and enough fuel line to reach the point on the up pipe where the nozzle will be located. Avoid routing the hose near the idler or altenator pulleys.
Remove the nut & sleeve from the end of the #3AN hose end and discard them, then twist the threaded end into the end of the 1/4" hose. An easy way to do this is with a ratchet & deep socket with a spacer inside to get the depth just right, you want the socket to grip on the 2nd hex of the AN connector while leaving the threads exposed. Once you have it, secure with a clamp. An alternate method is to purchase a braided stainless #3 AN supply line from an industrial hose store to connect the fan spray nozzle to the pump. This item should cost about $25-$35 if kept to a length of 3 feet or less.
Choose a location for the nozzle and drill a 1/4" hole in the up-pipe. Make certain that the location you chose allows for clearance between the MAF tube and the alc nozzle. Next, tap the hole with a 1/16"-27 NPT tap. 1/16" pipe taps are available through McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com).
Mark the NOS fan spray nozzle to indicate the spray direction & wrap teflon tape on the threads then screw into the uppipe. You may want to experiment with the direction of the spray. I think it works better to spray away from the throttle body. This allows a greater distribution of the liquid into the airstream coming from the intercooler. Install the jet in the fan spray nozzle and connect the hose to it.
Wiring
Relay pole # 85 - To pressure switch. (Other terminal on pressure switch to ground).
( If using a switch in the car, route to the switch first then to the pressure switch. )
Relay pole # 86 - To fuel pump jumper wire beneath alternator. This prevents the system from activating unless the fuel pump is running. If the pump were to activate with the engine not running, the liquid would be pumped into the intercooler and cause engine damage when the car is started.
Relay pole # 87 - To Alcohol pump (w/fused link inline).
Relay pole # 30/51 - To 12 volt post on rear of alternator (w/20Amp fuse inline).
Maintenance: (see link at bottom of page also)
Monthly - check hoses & checkvalve for leaks.
90 Days - Remove nozzle if using the more corrosive methanol alc & check for corrosion & clogging of the jet, etc. Remove the #3AN Fem Connector from supply line & check for clogging. A stainless steel fitting is available for this location.
6 months - All of the above plus:
Inspect the inside of the up pipe. Mild steel pipes will rust. Wire brush to remove.
Remove the Fanspray nozzle and inspect it for wind erosion. The air velocity through the up pipe will wear away the nozzle which is made of aluminum. If it's thinned down in the middle, replace with a new one. Remember it's hollow so don't let it get too thin or the tip may separate and be ingested by the engine. My experience is that they will last about 10,000 miles.
Annually; Replace Fuel Filter if equipped
Update Feb 2002 My pump quit after 6 years of use due to a clogged filter. The motor still worked great so I contacted Shurflo and they provided me with the name of a local dealer who had a rebuild kit in stock for $20. The pump was back in service a short time later.
Troubleshooting:
You'll either need a Mity-Vac hand operated vacuum/pressure pump or if you have their vacuum version of the pump, you can convert it to pressure as I did by using another 0-30 psi gage T'ee'd between 2 pieces of 1/4" hose and attach it to the pumps outlet port. Clamp the new gage & hose onto the outlet port of the pump and it will pump about 14 psi which is good enough for setting the Hobbs switch or testing the system. To test without a MityVac, you'll need to make some test runs with the hose out of the pipe & secured inside some type of container. For just testing the pump, remove the nozzle and the #30/51 relay lead from the relay & connect to a 12V source.
Preferred Procedure:
Remove nozzle from up-pipe & start the car, with the nozzle secured in a container, apply pressure to the switch with the Mityvac pump. You can now watch the spray pattern & strength. With the test-run method you'll only be able to note the volume of fluid sprayed.
Jetting:
A .030" NOS jet works good with smaller turbos. I'd recommended that you use no smaller than a .028" jet as the smaller ones don't spray a full pattern. A .032" jet works good with a TA49.
Once the installation is complete and tested, begin increasing the boost. The amount each car will tolerate will vary depending on turbo, intercooler, timing in the chip, ambient air temperature & etc. My car usually can handle 24 psi with 93 octane without more than a degree or two of knock retard occurring and that's usually due to a slight lag in the time the car goes to 24psi & the time it takes for the alcohol to start spraying. This is mostly a situation where there isn't much load on the motor due to the low MPH where it happens and it also could be from the transmission downshifting. In the Summer, I run about about 20-21 psi and tune for even less or no knock.
Using the System:
Street use - After the car reaches normal operating temperature, find a safe area & bring the boost up to 15lbs. This will start the pump (you may feel the car become a little boggy, like it's flooding). This is normal until the boost rises or some seconds elapse & the computer starts making adjustments for the fuel change. If the car hasn't been driven in several days, this 15 psi run-up will recharge the system. Once the pump starts, it just takes a second to charge the hoses and begin spraying. Once charged, it should stay that way all day.
Track use - Race gas is my 1st choice but occasionally I use the in car switch and start the alcohol after going into 3rd gear.
Additional Notes:
I use the radiator overflow for the alcohol reservoir. It's capacity is 1 gal. and gives the look of an unmodified engine compartment which appeals to me. For the burp tank, I've connected an aftermarket bottle in front of the battery mounted to the core support.
You'll need a Mity Vac pressure pump and an ohm meter or test light to change the pressure switch setting. If using the older GM pressure switch, unscrew the nut while holding the stem stationary then turning the stem to change the pressure. The GM switch comes with Locktite on the adjuster screw and nut which can be dissolved by nail polish remover or lacquer thinner on a Q-Tip. The adjustment screw for the NOS Hobbs switch is beneath the rubber plug on the back side.
System Requirements:
Hot wired intank fuel pump
Knock detector
7 year recap: 1st, Thanks to all the people who have emailed to say how satisfied with their installations of the DIY Alky kit. Other than neglecting to change the fuel filter, the kit has never failed to work for me.
Please feel free to contact me at the following address: E-mail:stevemonroe@cox.net $65 Throttle Bodys ??? Related Alky Injection pages on my Site.
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