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  1. #1

    Default RG58 coax cable for knk sensor

    Hey guys,
    I've replaced 2 knock sensors already and now it's time for the 3rd..... I think. I had to make a repair to the original knk sensor wire (the wire was cut off a couple inches after it cpmes out of the harness next to the intake manifold) but I wonder if that's why I get the damn code 52 on my gen3 with the st205 ecu.

    I have seen some people say that rg58 cable works good so I ordered some a few hours ago. I also just found out that proper torque is very important on the knk. Something about tearing the diaphragm idk. So i have to figure out how to get a torque wrench in that area

    A couple days ago I was adjusting the timing and I was jumping the te1 and e1 (whichever two your suppose to) but the timing wouldn't change, just the rpms but that was off and on.... then I get a code 12!!!! Man!

    That code is cleared right now but I do have a code 52. I can't give up on my all-trac but I'm lost and tired of this shit
    Any ideas guys?

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    1991 all-trac w/ gen3 swap, 14 avalon, 08 sequoia 5.7L , 1969 mustang build in progress and a 87 toyota longbed 5 spd


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    Originally Posted by The Captain
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    I own the car because I didn't want to be like everybody else.

  2. #2
    Senior Member underscore is a jewel in the rough underscore is a jewel in the rough underscore is a jewel in the rough
    underscore has been to an official Ogopogo Meet! underscore has donated to the forums!

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    Default

    I dealt with something similar this summer. Use a multimeter to check the wire, both for a short to ground (check that first, from the ECU side) and for continuity through the wire. If that's okay then swap the sensor and check your motor mounts for excess play. If it still throws a code run a new wire. Also I don't know if it's physically possible to get a torque wrench in there but maybe a LHD car will have better clearance (RHD has a lot of steering crap in the way).

    Backstory #1: This summer I had both a wire that was shorted to ground, and a defective sensor that would intermittently throw a code once warmed up. Figuring out that I had two faults in the same system and getting it all fixed took a lot of time.
    Backstory #2: My buddies brother built up a turbo MR2 that kept throwing codes so he kept replacing the knock sensor, he must have gone through 5 or 6 before a shop noticed the motor mounts were toast. After they replaced the mounts it stopped throwing the code.
    1992 GT-S // 1991 GTFour RC // 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the advice
    My motor mounts are ok. I just had the motor out and they looked good.
    The code hasn't come back and it's been a couple days since I reset it after checking out the specs on the distributor and I had to repair the G2 wire on it because it was only connected by 1 strand or the wire....
    I still have the low idle problem though. If I'm driving and I take it out of gear and foot off the throttle the rpms drop to like 600 and then when I get to a complete stop then the idle slowly climbs to about 1k

    It only does this once the engine is up to temp according to the coolant temp gauge

    The wiring from my distributor to the ecu checked out fine and my ecu looks good inside as well.
    Last edited by lalojamesliz; 02-01-2018 at 09:57 AM.

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    1991 all-trac w/ gen3 swap, 14 avalon, 08 sequoia 5.7L , 1969 mustang build in progress and a 87 toyota longbed 5 spd


    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    Originally Posted by The Captain
    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
    I own the car because I didn't want to be like everybody else.

  4. #4

    Default

    Good tips underscore. We will do the multimeter test as well in case of faulty wire.

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