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  1. #1

    Default Coilovers Adjustment question for Joey

    Ok Joey. Got questions for you. Just simple answers pls. Dont get all autox righteous on me with them

    1) I have raised my ride height in the front to accomidate taller/wider tires (225/45/17 - I cant get 235/40s up there easily, so this is what I got) - The question is, I know preload is going to affect my handling a bit, but what can I do to offset it and make more comfortable. Do I need to go up or down on my damping and spring rate? Its very stiff up there and a little bouncy.

    2) I know I need to do something to my rear end. Its a bit bouncy now. The only change Ive made is what I did to my front end, and Ive removed my rear sway bar, thus modifying my overall spring rate. - In my head, Im not sure if I need to reduce my preload and lower it a little, or raise the preload, and damping? I can only adjust my shocks 1 way, so Im stuck with what I got.

    Finally, my height adjustment comes only from spring perch preload adjustment, I dont have an adjustable collar to extend the body out, so the only real adjustments I have are preload, and damping.

    I know without riding in it you couldnt know, but just based on what Ive told you, make a few educated guesses and see if I can figure out a "happy" place that does what I want it to do.

    kthx.
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  2. #2

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    Why do you not have 0 preload? Are you oval racing or something?

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    Originally Posted by The Captain

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
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    Originally Posted by andy
    so gay he cant even drive straight.

  3. #3
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    Since I wasnt paged I wont tell you that a comfortable ride with coilovers is matching the dampening to the spring rate. If you are bouncy you can be over or under dampened on compression or rebound. With a proper dampener you wont need helper springs either. You can run 0 preload and actually have droop past the spring and it wont affect driving it unless you leave the ground. The cheapest solution is to match a spring to the dampener valving you have already.

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  4. #4
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    He clearly didn't ask you Ben....
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  5. #5

    Default

    My spring rates are matched to my dampers. Thats not the problem. I also understand what you just said Ben, but Im not running 0 preload. Again, my ride height adjusts from preload. So, I need to determine what my options are.

    The problem is, I added ride height, which was adding preload, and it made it drive different. I have my ideas and theories, but I just wanted to run it by Joey specifically. To be honest, I didnt even think of asking Bugs. I forgot.
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  6. #6

    Default

    Ride height adjust from preload? What kind of whimsical setup are you running? Ride height should adjust from damper height, which should leave preload alone.

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    Originally Posted by The Captain

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
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    Originally Posted by andy
    so gay he cant even drive straight.

  7. #7
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    You are pretty much screwed. When you added preload to the spring you maxed out the upward travel on the dampener most likely. You should measure your ride height vs droop to see if you have any travel left. You have also increased the spring rate starting point .So now when you absorb a bump in the road you bottom out the dampener coming off of it. I have run a TEIN setup that did this from bad design. You want to operate the dampener with at least 1.5" of travel before the bump stop. Ideally you would want to be in the middle to lower 1/3 of the dampener travel. You still havent told us what rare jdm setup you are running but apparently its designed to be hella flush and slammed.

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by METDeath View Post
    Ride height adjust from preload? What kind of whimsical setup are you running? Ride height should adjust from damper height, which should leave preload alone.
    What the fuck do you think YOU know about suspension that I dont f00?
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by donteatbugs View Post
    You are pretty much screwed. When you added preload to the spring you maxed out the upward travel on the dampener most likely. You should measure your ride height vs droop to see if you have any travel left. You have also increased the spring rate starting point .So now when you absorb a bump in the road you bottom out the dampener coming off of it. I have run a TEIN setup that did this from bad design. You want to operate the dampener with at least 1.5" of travel before the bump stop. Ideally you would want to be in the middle to lower 1/3 of the dampener travel. You still havent told us what rare jdm setup you are running but apparently its designed to be hella flush and slammed.
    Yeah, thats pretty much what Ive figured out. Looks like I need to remove some height and preload. My problem is that my tires are rubbing my fender liners, and I really dont want to remove those, but I obviously want my car to drive properly. Its not THAT bad. It actually still is pretty good, but theres definitely some fine tuning Id like to get.

    My travel in the front isnt awful, but it could definitely be more.

    Ill pull some preload off, maybe pull it all out and see how it is. I COULD limit upward travel with longer bump stops couldnt I bugs? How much bumpstop is too much?
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  10. #10

    Default

    Oh, the "rare JDM setup" is the TRD white coilovers.

    Nothing special. Just hard to get and I really dont wanna replace them. But it does kind of bone me that they dont have any real threaded collar adjustment in the shock body and they rely on preload to adjust ride height.
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Luni View Post
    What the fuck do you think YOU know about suspension that I dont f00?
    That you adjust the shock body up to raise ride height without adjusting spring preload?

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    Originally Posted by The Captain

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    Chaos pulls on Marshall's GT.
    But he has a free hand to grope boobies while he drives....

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    Originally Posted by andy
    so gay he cant even drive straight.

  12. #12
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    Sorry I didn't see this earlier. If i were you I'd look as spacing the shocks down so you actually have some travel. If you're running preload you've got insufficient droop to your suspension. Nothing you do about the shocks is gonna fix it. You might see about getting a shock extension made or something to lower the mounting of the shock some in relation to the shock mounts.

    I'm guessing your 17s are just too tall for stock fendered MR2. *shrug*

    Sorry there isn't a quick fix for ya.

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    Originally Posted by MCcelica
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  13. #13
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    As for the rubbing issue, have you tried a different alighment? Add some wicked camber and set the caster high and see if you still rub. Zero toe is the key to less tire wear, 2.5 degrees of negative camber with tuck those tires in tight.

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  14. #14
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    Herrafrush yo. Bugs is totally right though. 2.5-3 degrees of negative camber might do you some good.

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  15. #15

    Default

    I havent. I need to get it aligned. But I want to get my ride height and preload all set before I do that or Ill have to get it redone.

    I have some stuff to go on so Ill play with it and report back.
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  16. #16
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    What I was suggesting is doing a rough alignment setup with measuring tapes, digital levels and strings. If it still rubs, keep adjusting. When you get to a point where everything is acceptable record your numbers and give them to the alignment shop. They can set it to your specs and be very precise about it. You only need a rough figure to give them though on the camber. Your toe should be 0 or .05* toe in. you can run caster to center the wheel in the wheel well. That will also help with rubbing some but you usually want to keep the caster on stock top hats around 5

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  17. #17

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    I have some AlexW hats. Just need to get them installed. I guess its prolly in my best interest to do that before going through with all of this isnt it? And my suspension geo kit as well. I have all that shit.
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  18. #18

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    To be clear, Im not rubbing the fenders themselves. Im rubbing the inner fender liners. I have sufficient tuck to clear the fenders.
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  19. #19

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    Then maybe you have too much negative camber? I had that issue on the Celica in the front.

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
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    Originally Posted by andy
    so gay he cant even drive straight.

  20. #20
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    Well fuck, who gives a shit about those? Tie them up further away.

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  21. #21
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    I still rub my fender liners on hard corners. I accept this as part of normal life now. You can minimize it with wheel placement in the wheel well though. You may not get rid of all of it though.

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  22. #22
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    Hell, you run enough caster you turn the wheel and it'll rub at stockish ride height.

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  23. #23
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    The geometry kit will allow you to run enough caster and keep the wheel centered in the wheel well. This should help minimize the rubbing while turning. IMO that size tire is less ideal than a 235 40 17

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  24. #24

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    I cant fit a 235/40/17 without all of that geometry kit installed, and when I got those tires I didnt have all the geo shit to support it. I actually like the extra sidewall in the front. My car feels good everywhere, just rubs on bumps.
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  25. #25
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    If you need to raise the car but don't want to add preload you could add spacer plates between the top hats and the chassis. You may need longer studs in the top hats if they don't have enough extra thread already but that should be easy enough to do.
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