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  1. #1

    Default ST185 Rear Struts

    The ST185 OEM rear struts are becoming hard to find. I have a slight weep on the rear driver strut. Per Toyota US, there are 2 passenger struts still available, but not driver rear struts. Questions:

    Can a passenger rear strut be modified to become a driver side rear strut? I see that the only difference is the location of the sway bar link mounting tab on the strut - can this be cut off on the passenger strut and re-welded on the opposite side to make a driver rear strut?

    Are the Celica ST, GT and/or GT-S rear struts dimensionally identical to the All-Trac rear struts? I think they may be, with the only difference being the valving for the fluid regarding resistance to motion. Has anyone put an ST184 set of rear struts onto an ST185? If so, what is the best aftermarket rear strut made? Monroe?

    Just looking for a little help here. I see many use coil overs, but I prefer to stay with stock, and this All-Trac has few miles with good springs, so don't need everything.

  2. #2

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    Have you considered doing the Koni rear conversion?

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    2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo Rally Edition <- no build daily

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    Originally Posted by The Captain

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    Chaos pulls on Marshall's GT.
    But he has a free hand to grope boobies while he drives....

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    Originally Posted by andy
    so gay he cant even drive straight.

  3. #3

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    Is there a detailed, step-by-step instruction on how to do this? If it involves cutting and welding the existing struts, I'm a little concerned about that. And if done this way, how does one replace the next time?

  4. #4

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    So it requires a bad set of rear struts, a bad set of front struts from a donor car.

    You cut the top off the bad rear struts and the donor struts so that they can be welded together to fit the Koni Celica front struts. donteatbugs can probably explain it better as he actually did it. Once done you just replace with Koni Yellow struts again, far less work the second time.

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    2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo Rally Edition <- no build daily

    I was just going to look. With fire. And lightning. And reanimated chipmunks. And raccoons. On fire.


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    Originally Posted by The Captain

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    Chaos pulls on Marshall's GT.
    But he has a free hand to grope boobies while he drives....

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    Originally Posted by andy
    so gay he cant even drive straight.

  5. #5

    Default

    donteatbugs, do you have or can you provide the procedure and materials you used (including Koni part numbers) to provide fresh ST185 rear struts, as METDeath above said you have previously done? Would appreciate it.

    Also, given I prefer fall-back plans, does anyone have any original old ST185 rear struts they would like to unload? I would like to make the modification to a separate set of struts rather than take off mine and make a mistake and then have nothing - would rather get a set made up and completed prior to starting the installation.

  6. #6

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    I did this on my car. I don't have a write up but I can try to explain.

    I got my Koni inserts from a member. Mine are the Koni race inserts. The part number on these are Koni 8610-1437RACE part number.

    You should be able to cross reference regular Koni yellow inserts from that number. I used them because I got a great deal. I have standard Koni yellows on the front.

    What you need to do is have a set of rear All Trac struts and a set of front struts. The stock rears don't allow for use of an insert. The fronts do. Measure down about 2.5-3 inches from the top of the strut body and use a pipe cutter to cut the this section from the strut body. Be careful as strut body has the oil in it and you don't want it going everywhere. Once the top is cut off, pull out the guts and carefully pour the oil out. Clean the inside of the strut body really well to make sure that you don't have a lot of oil residue inside the body for one of the following steps.

    Next, take the donor front strut and remove the nut at the top. The front struts are setup to accept inserts and have a nut at the top. Once you have the nut off, remove the insert. This may take some effort as the insert may have rusted slightly against the strut body. Once you have the insert out, measure the same distance down on the front strut housing that you cut off on the rear housing. Mark the distance and use the pipe cutter again to cut this section off of the front house.

    Next, clean the cuts up really well and make sure they are level. Once this is done and the joint between the two parts look good, weld the top piece from the front strut onto the body of the rear strut. Clean up the welds and paint the strut housing.

    If everything went together correctly, you should now be able to insert the Koni insert into the modified housing and reinstall the top nut.

    This is a slightly simplified explanation I know, but this gives you the general idea. It's not a real difficult process. If you can't weld yourself, you should be able to find a competent fab shop in your area show them what you want done. It shouldn't be a real expensive proposition.

    How this helps some.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  7. #7
    Rev Over 9000...Safely Now donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs's Avatar
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    Default

    Yes, It is as decribed above.

    You have to use st185 rear struts for the bottom half. They are shorter because the drive shaft goes under them. The GT GTS and ST will be too long. There are some koni inserts that use a bolt through the bottom of the strut housing instead of the nut on top. I used some in a scion tC i think. If you could find the right dimension that could be an easier non welding possibility.

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    Shadow's Minion Army - member #3

  8. #8

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    Update: My son found this post in this forum:

    - viewtopic.php?t=51665

    It talks about KYB rear struts available in the UK for the ST185. They are KYB 334-052 (rear right) and KYB 334-053 (rear left). Sure enough, these KYB strut numbers tie out to the ST185 Toyota rear strut part numbers. And they were available with the total delivered cost being a little under $250 (which is a little lower than getting the Toyota struts in the US if they were available). So my son ordered these, along with the US available KYB SB101 (Strut Boot w/Bumper Cushion) and KYB SM5087 (Strut Mount), two each. We'll save the old original ST185 rear struts, just incase he wants to try the Koni insert option later on his second ST185.

    We'll get back on these struts after they are delivered and installed and let you know how the install goes. Won't be able to test these struts until late spring (after the car comes out of the body shop reconditioned with fresh paint and gets its new interior installed).

    Will have to think about the front struts now. There is no evidence of leaks, but my son says this particular ST185 leans a bit more than the other he has that has only 80k miles on it, all original. Car height is spot on, so I'm thinking the springs are where they should be. Sway bars are intact and connected - not sure if worn front struts impact a car leaning through turns that much. Thoughts?

  9. #9
    Rev Over 9000...Safely Now donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs's Avatar
    donteatbugs has been to an annual Dragon Meet! donteatbugs has donated to the forums! donteatbugs helped get Grayscale's Celica towed from The Dragon in 2008. donteatbugs helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. donteatbugs helped bring Chaos back to the Dragon

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    Default

    They can let it lean more but mostly from an uneven road surface letting the spring compact instead of dampening the spring movement. Steady-state cornering will be spring only though. Shocks dont generally add spring rate to a car but control the rate that is there. I had seen the KYB shocks but they arent as good as oem or koni but they are the easiest replacement option.

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    Shadow's Minion Army - member #3

  10. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 93celicaconv View Post
    Are the Celica ST, GT and/or GT-S rear struts dimensionally identical to the All-Trac rear struts? I think they may be, with the only difference being the valving for the fluid regarding resistance to motion. Has anyone put an ST184 set of rear struts onto an ST185? If so, what is the best aftermarket rear strut made? Monroe?
    For reference, they are different. AWD struts are shorter since the CV has to go under it, they should also be stiffer since they have more rear weight.
    1992 GT-S // 1991 GTFour RC // 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD

  11. #11

    Default

    Instead of cutting up a pair of fronts, you can also have a machine shop make you a threaded tube adapter. I'm going down this road now.



    http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26135

  12. #12

    Default

    That's not a bad idea. Where do you get the gland nut from to turn into the adapter?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by 93celicaconv View Post
    That's not a bad idea. Where do you get the gland nut from to turn into the adapter?
    https://twosrus.com/catalog/product_...roducts_id=976.

    I imagine you could find a cheaper M48x1.50 gland nut elsewhere.

  14. #14

    Default

    Yes, but would still require taking a strut out of a donor car to get that gland nut, as I haven't seen them sold individually. Or can new gland nuts be purchased?

    On the same subject, it sound like there is oil in the tube, outside of the insert, on these strut assemblies. What is the purpose of that oil? Does it need to be replaced when one keeps the tube but replaces the insert? Assuming yes. That means oil needs to be added in addition to the new insert. What is the specification on that oil?

  15. #15
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    Default

    If there is oil between the insert and the tube it likely came from the insert, meaning it is leaking. I could see putting some grease on the insert to help with install/removal but it shouldn't be a liquid.
    1992 GT-S // 1991 GTFour RC // 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD

  16. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 93celicaconv View Post
    On the same subject, it sound like there is oil in the tube, outside of the insert, on these strut assemblies. What is the purpose of that oil? Does it need to be replaced when one keeps the tube but replaces the insert? Assuming yes. That means oil needs to be added in addition to the new insert. What is the specification on that oil?
    If you're talking about where we discussed draining the oil out of the rear strut housing, yes, there is oil in the housing. There is also the piston for the strut mechanism. There are no inserts in the rear strut housings. That's why there is no gland nut to remove on the rear. The rears are sealed, self contained units. If you do the conversion you do not have to add any oil to the housing. You just cut the strut housing, remove the piston assembly, drain the oil and clean out the inside of the strut housing. After modifying the strut housing to accept the gland nut, you just put the inserts into the housing and install the gland nut. New strut ready to install back on the car. That's it. No oil to be put back into the strut housing.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  17. #17

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    OK, now I think I got it. Makes sense. Appreciate all this input, will help me (now and in the future) with these ST185's.

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