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  1. #1

    Default Project ST165-ST205 Swap

    Old build thread: http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewto...p?f=44&t=48628

    I forgot to post a build log here so here we go. I had to remove some of the pictures due to sizing and replaced them with links. Sorry


    February 27th, 2015

    Parts ordered for timing belt kit from PrimeMR2.com



    3rd Gen 3SGTE from JspecAuto. $2295 shipped.

    http://www.jspecauto.com/engine_deta...5_3S_3SGTE_GT4



    Video of compression test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lWE693jFws

    March 11th, 2015
    Picked up the car: The owner was an older gentlemen whose wife owned the car since new, purchased in Michael's Toyota in Bellevue. She passed away a few years ago and he just drove the car the weekends. The interior is absolutely immaculate. Seats were recently reupholstered. Everything works, including lumbar support and cruise control. The engine bay is clean but its leaking at the valve cover. Power delivery seems to be so so but the car has 200k+ miles. I'll get more pics later this evening.











    March 13th, 2015
    Motor is delivered. Everything is settled in. Missing the MAP sensor and plug too though.





    April 17th, 2015

    Timing belt. Looks like I need new cam seals and I stripped the philips screw on the water pump so that needed to be drilled out. Slight delay in finishing while I order those parts!

    Ordered this to assist. Milwaukee Fuel 3/8" lithium impact. AMAZING. I never want to use air tools again it was so amazing.










    April 28th, 2015
    Finished the timing belt on the 3SGTE. New water pump, tensioners, pulleys, oil pump pulley seal, cam seals, and valve cover seals.











    May 1st, 2015

    Timing belt all buttoned up.

    Berk ST205 downpipe received in the mail.

    Broke every god damn fuel injector clip. Ordered new ones.

    Boat anchor cat/downpipe removed.

    Oil cooler and HFH (Hoses from Hell) removed.

    Waiting to go on. They weren't this mangled before I removed them but they don't call them the HFH for nothing.


    May 3rd, 2015

    Buttoned up the HFH install and downpipe. What a PITA that was...



    This is pretty much all the space I had to remove the clip holding the clamp in place. Either that or remove the entire exhaust manifold :what:



    Downpipe installed with this funny looking brace that took the OEM brace's place.




    Pretty much just waiting on the axle seals and the fuel injector clips to drop the motor in. It'll be time to pull the existing motor, replace some bits while I'm in there, and drop the motor in. :thumbup:

    May 8th, 2015

    Started to take the original motor apart.

    Leaky turbo.

    No rusty battery tray!

    This insane telescopic looking alternator cooling dust.



    Also tested my new Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" on the axle nut.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXL-wGfhhkU

    May 9th, 2015

    I was planning on dropping the motor today but I ran into a snag after dropping the subframe and axles. Looks like one of the bolts on the downpipe are stripped. I'm going to need to cut/drill that out.





    May 13th, 2015

    Engine is out. During the removal I forgot to drain the oil which resulted in 4 quarts of oil mixed with trans fluid and power steering fluid. Not fun.




    Also noticed the fuel filter bracket is missing. That will make for a difficult removal of the filter. Hard to tell from.the picture but its just floating by the fuel line.



    May 26th, 2015

    Received my package from speed-source.net and proceeded to install the goodies inside.

    New shifter bushings to replace the worn rubber.

    The stainless clutch line seems to be a bit shorter than the original. I couldn't find any comparison pictures so I shot an email to speed source. Hopefully they will clarify.


    May 30th, 2015

    Motor is all buttoned up and ready to drop in so I started to work on the front suspension.

    First things first...something has to break The control arm nut inside the unibody snapped off, letting the bolt float freely. I had to drill under the drivers side floor pan to get to it.





    After that fiasco, I thought it would be best to just finish the drivers side and call it a day. Installed the powder coated knuckles with fresh bearings, new OEM ball joints, and then the coilovers...

    The Ceika coilover sleeves I got were incorrect for the front. I swapped them with the rears and they bolted on fine. I shot an email to them to see if I could get the correct sleeves for the front. Its been a few months since I've ordered them so I might be SOL since I didn't check when I first got them.




    May 31st, 2015

    Installed the swaybar endlinks, stainless lines, and new rotors. The brake pads I got seem to be a little too thick and probably cheapies since they came free with the rotors. I think I'm going to look into either Toyota OEM pads or EBC greens.



    This little thing won't fit inside the other thing...sigh I'll make it work.






    Also removed the FRAM fuel filter and replaced with OEM. The OEM one came with the proper bracket to mount to the chassis where the FRAM one was supported only by the fuel lines themselves I mean come on, really...

  2. #2

    Default

    Nice job! Brings back memories. Not necessarily fond ones...

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    I was deaf, sore and majorly pissed off

  3. #3
    Driving Miss Daisy VikingJZ is a name known to all VikingJZ is a name known to all VikingJZ is a name known to all VikingJZ is a name known to all VikingJZ is a name known to all VikingJZ is a name known to all VikingJZ's Avatar
    VikingJZ has been to an annual Dragon Meet! VikingJZ has donated to the forums! VikingJZ helped get Grayscale's Celica towed from The Dragon in 2008. VikingJZ helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009.

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    Default

    That's the cleanest 4th gen I have ever seen.

    Nice!
    --Aaron
    1976 Toyota Celica GT 5MT//2007 Honda Civic//Skateboard







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  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by VikingJZ View Post
    That's the cleanest 4th gen I have ever seen.

    Nice!
    Thanks man!

    June 7th, 2015

    I forgot to take some more pictures but the engine is in. Motor mounts were a PITA to align but otherwise it went rather smoothly.



  5. #5
    I let PearlJammzz run The Dragon in 14.7 andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy's Avatar
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    Default

    Very very nice! keep it up!

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    Shadow's Minion Army - member #2

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    Originally Posted by vafalla
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    No, I'm still gay. I like the ladies too.

  6. #6

    Default

    June 15th, 2015

    Some significant progress made.

    After some unsuccessful attempts at getting the AC to work with the ST205, I ended up pulling the entire system. I had left the original AC compressor and lines untouched with plans on mounting the ST165 compressor to the new block but it turns out it didn't quite fit into the new bracket and the old bracket wouldn't work. I then tried to swap the ST205 compressor in but the lines didn't quite match and I didn't have the complete lines. Oh well, made room for other things.

    Pile o' AC crap.



    In the process of pulling the AC lines, I cracked one of the rubber molded power steering hoses. With the car being 27 years old, its of course no longer available.



    With the AC gone, something will need to be done about the pulley that would be there.



    I found this thread on 6gc.net http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=36671 detailing an OEM solution. I prompted ordered the parts from Amayama Trading. I also got a package from them the other day with some brand new parts, straight from Japan. New intake boot and intercooler coolant bottle.





    New heat exchanger with brackets that fit in factory mounting holes. I utilized the existing lines and pump for now.





    Ceika got back to me regarding the incorrect brackets for the ST165 and prompted shipped me a full set via DHL Overnight from Taiwan.



    Installed and looked great but I noticed that the brake line clip was completely different (and on the wrong side). At this point I'll live with it and make it work with some creative zip ties or something.



    While I was there, I finished up installing the OEM pads and OEM tie rod ends.





    I decided it would be a good time to check if the exhaust bolted to the MR2 downpipe. So far so good but the stock exhaust is in questionable shape.



    Stainless clutch line installed.



    Brass shifting bushings installed.



    Bent accelerator cable. Need to replace this.



    And I still need to source a transmission oil cooler. I would prefer to keep the factory lines but that is looking like less and less of an option.



    Stay tuned for more!

  7. #7
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli's Avatar
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    Default

    I'm getting a bit anxious & jelly wanting to dive into mine.
    Jasmine - 1989 GTS. GenIV 3s-gte, e153 LSD transmission, 3" turbo-back exhaust. SOLD

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    Her Build thread -->
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4thgenceli View Post
    I'm getting a bit anxious & jelly wanting to dive into mine.
    Gotta get started!

    June 21st, 2015


    Finished installing the front/rear motor mounts, crossmembers, and misc stuff underneath the car.





    Test fitted new catch can and hoses. Trying to figure out where this vacuum line goes.





    Installed the ST205 waterpipe from the intercooler but of course the lines extend way beyond the stock ST165 pump. I'm going to have to engineer this one.





    Instead of going with a complete aftermarket solution for the transmission cooler, I'm thinking of utilizing the existing hoses with some new flared lines based on the ones that were cut from the car. If I can get new lines clamped with rubber hoses to your run of the mill 13 row JDM crap, that will do just fine. I'll run these to home depot to see what size they are and order the appropriate lines online.



  9. #9

    Default

    June 27th, 2015

    Few more bits sorted out. Fitted the ST205 stock airbox. It bolts with two of the factory ST165 bolt points which I'm just fine with.



    Installed the AC delete pulley and belt.



    Frozenboost oil cooler and AN lines from anplumbing.com installed.



  10. #10

    Default

    July 5th, 2015

    The heat exchanger came with a Spal 12" so I went ahead and used that along with a new Flex-a-lite fan I ordered from summit. I wired both to individual 30amp relays triggered by the stock fan harness and they work beautifully. They are both set to pull air into the engine bay. Not sure why the last picture is poor quality but I got lazy and didn't extend the wiring when I should have as you can (kinda) see when I sleeved the wires.





  11. #11

    Default

    Looks great. Where did you get the AC delete pulley and belt?

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    90 GTS Swap
    1/4 Mile 13.83 @ 100.73 mph 250hp 244tq

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sloceli View Post
    Looks great. Where did you get the AC delete pulley and belt?
    Pulley part number - 16603-88360
    Belt - 99365-21010

    http://www.amayama.com/

    You can get the pulley locally in the US but it was more expensive than getting it from Japan w/ shipping.

  13. #13

    Default

    July 11th, 2015

    A few updates were missed but I finally got her started. I had everything hooked up yesterday, fluids filled, etc but she would crank and crank but not fire. Spark at the ignition coil, sparks at the plug. Fuel pump tested good. Timing was spot on. Fuel resistor had 12v. Nothing.

    I pulled the plugs and they were dry as a bone so the injectors weren't firing. One of my buddies came by and we pulsed each injector per the EFI troubleshooting guide in the BGB. At first only 1 and 4 were going. We started her up and she ran like shit. We pulsed it again and then 1, 2, and 4 were going. We finally pulsed 3 again and now all of them were firing. No idea why but here she goes!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZOYUY8Z5qk

  14. #14

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    Looking really good. Great work.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  15. #15

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    Nice

    I'm kind of jealous, that's a really clean 165. I've always loved how they look.

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  16. #16
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD's Avatar
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    Default

    Congrats!
    1988 ST165 2.2L @ 370awhp
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    1994 ST205 WRC
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  17. #17

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    Thanks guys!

    July 31st, 2015

    Been a bit since the last update but more progress has been made. Everything has been essentially completed and I'm just waiting on a few bits to arrive:

    - HKS T pipe from the UK to complete the intake.
    - HKS replacement red 200mm filter.
    - 5mm wheel spacers due to rubbing from the coilovers.
    - More Toyota pink coolant to fill my WTA system.

    I picked up a set of BFGoodrich 195/60R14 G Force Super Sport A/S mounted on the stock wheels. I couldn't decide on what wheels to get so I opted to use the stock ones for now. They fit nicely in my new 2015 Ford Edge .



    Brake master cylinder replaced.



    New endlinks installed. I'll admit that I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to the coilover installation. Since they were custom from Ceika, they came with no installation instructions. I did my best to install them using similiar BC coilovers from the ST185. I still don't quite understand the camber plate orientation or adjustments so I just left them alone. I'm not even entirely sure I have them on the correct side as they weren't marked. I installed the rear wheels and lowered the car just to eyeball the camber before I take it to the alignment shop. Since the closest performance shop that can align coilovers is quite a distance from me, I'll have to rely on a chain shop to do a basic alignment so I don't destroy my wheels.

    Any suggestions regarding adjustment or orientation here would be appreciated! Below picture is of the drivers side rear.


  18. #18

    Default

    August 29th, 2015

    Another long time since I've updated but I've finally got everything dialed in and running. My first test run out of the garage resulted in a low 500 rpm idle after a short 2 mile journey. I let the car sit overnight and the following day it would die immediately after applying any throttle. I took the throttle body apart and discovered the idle air control valve was clogged with carbon and the little door wasn't moving. Cleaned the IACV and tested the door which worked great. Put it all back together and did another test drive with the new Antera 109 trispokes I found on craigslist. I don't have the coilovers at the ride height I wanted yet because I wanted to leave room for some adjustments without taking the wheels off as I made my measurements. Just enough to get to an alignment shop at least.

    Clogged with carbon.



    Stopped by an empty church parking lot to take some pictures.





  19. #19
    I let PearlJammzz run The Dragon in 14.7 andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy is a name known to all andy's Avatar
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    Default

    Very nice work. Its pretty typical to have injectors stick after being unused for a while. generally they will come online after a few pulses.

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    Shadow's Minion Army - member #2

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    Originally Posted by vafalla
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    No, I'm still gay. I like the ladies too.

  20. #20

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    September 27th, 2015

    Few things have changed since the last update but not a whole lot. Long story short, I should of replaced the clutch while the engine was out because the clutch is slipping at WOT. No amount of pedal adjustment or bleeding seems to resolve it. That's what I get for being cheap! Now I have to pull the whole engine again (Why you ask? Because center diff). Before I discovered this little problem, I did do a few minor things to the car.

    The factory boost gauge wouldn't work with the swap and I didn't want some gauge pod style boost gauge. I discovered an Omori boost gauge that the MR2 guys install in the factory location. Sounds like something I could do!




    Works great. Matches (kinda) the factory 80's style green without being obnoxious.

    Also picked up a Twos R Us manual boost controller to compliment the boost gauge. Disabled the TVSV and set the boost to 12psi.



    Cleaned up the interior a bit as well.


  21. #21

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    October 3rd, 2015

    Preparing to drop the motor for the clutch replacement. Ordered a Clutchmasters Stage III FX300 clutch + ARP Flywheel bolts from Xiiimotorsports. Also ordered an OEM throwout bearing/rear main seal, and new pressure plate bolts. I damaged the pricey vacuum nipples for the power steering pump in the process of removal.







    Salvaging my fresh Redline trans oil. $17/quart ain't cheap.



    Engine dropped.





    Two hours wiggling that bastard off via the 'silo' method.





    Well that explains why the car was slipping under any power..










  22. #22
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD has much to be proud of ChrisD's Avatar
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    Default

    Love the boost gauge install! Clean look much like I did mine. Too bad about the clutch though. Is the slipping better when at stock boost?

    Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
    1988 ST165 2.2L @ 370awhp
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    1994 ST205 WRC
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  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisD View Post
    Love the boost gauge install! Clean look much like I did mine. Too bad about the clutch though. Is the slipping better when at stock boost?

    Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
    It slipped anytime the boost gauge went past 0 haha. This should help. Needs a new face though.

  24. #24

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    October 10th, 2015

    Stuff has arrived and stuff needs to be replaced.

    Removing the rear main seal.


    New OEM seal.


    Resurfaced OEM flywheel. Opted against using the Fidanza one.


    Sexy surface.


    ARP Flywheel bolts and Loctite 242.


    Installed and torqued to spec. What a PITA to hold the flywheel in place to do it.


    Clutchmaster FX300 fitted.


    New OEM pressure plate bolts.


    Installed and torqued to spec. Torque specs was rather low in the manual (17-20 ft lb iirc) so I added some loctite.


    Pricey moly paste and OEM throwout bearing.


    Lubing the slave contact.


    Lubing the bearing contact points.


    Lubing the pivot.


    Installed.


    Close up. You can see the nice thin layer of moly lube on the shaft. I put a very slight layer of antiseize on the spline as well.


    Back together. Probably throw it back in the car tomorrow or next weekend.

  25. #25

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    Long time no update (again). Clutch finished, engine mounted, etc. Started her up today and smoke starting pouring out of the engine bay. I thought I messed up the clutch install until...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr2Nmn9xLo8

    I guess I'm picking up that ebay exhaust for the ST185 afterall.

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