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  1. #51

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    Here's the diagram for the code 54 fix for a non-205. The other diagram I posted is supposed to work with the 205 to solve the code issue if you remove the WTA and go with a front mount. This solution works without the 205 harness. I'm not sure that the relay is actually necessary. You might be able to get away with using the diagram and running switched 12V to the INT pin. That pin is part of the WTA system and the 205 would have the wire in the ECU harness for that one, thus not needing it to cure the code 54 issue.

    Anyway, I can say this solution works. Here's the diagram.



    I'm also posting a diagram I made to show the correct way to hook the voltage divider up. I hooked mine up wrong the first time and figured I might not be the only one. The key thing here is to make sure that the R1 resistor is below the R2 resistor for this to work. Here's that diagram.



    Hopefully these will help anybody doing this conversion.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  2. #52

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    - Mario
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    "We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a Habit."

  3. #53

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    Here's the latest update:

    The O2 sensor came last Wednesday and I picked up a relay on the way home that day as well.. I got the relay installed in the WTA spoof circuit like the above diagram shows and installed the new O2 sensor as well. Fire the car up and NO CODES!! Drove it to work Friday and everything was fine. The only time I got a code was if I pushed the boost. Still same scenario, under acceleration OK till 10 psi, over that the car stutters and the CEL comes on for a few seconds. I'm sure it's got to do with the response time for the 2nd Gen sensor but I haven't heard anything from anybody that has used one to see if my theory is correct.

    Saturday I figured I'd remount the ECU in the proper place and get it out of the floor. Got everything in, hit the key and the car starts. It runs for about 30 seconds and quits. Hit the key again, same thing. Getting all of the wiring back in that spot and getting the carpet back up over it is like putting 10 lbs of shit in a 5 lbs bag. There's not a lot of room there without the adapter harness. Put that in there and there really isn't any.

    Pulled the wires back out and found one had come loose from the harness. Got in back in and made sure the rest were tight and where there supposed to be and put it all back together. Hit the key and the car fires up and runs. Great!

    After about a minute, the damn CEL comes on. Check the codes, 21 and 54, O2 sensor and Intercooler pump. Must have jarred something else messing with the wiring. I didn't have to time fool with it any more Saturday or Sunday. I went out when I got home and pulled it all loose again. Check all of the wires. Looked at the wiring for the relay and for the Code 54 harness. It looked like one of the connectors I put into the Berk Harness might have slipped back a little. I pushed it up in the connector and checked the other 4 wires. I had to add one other wire to the harness, the one for the INT position. Checked it. Made sure it was up far enough and that the relay fix was working. Everything was good. Put it all back together again and fired the car up. No codes!

    I moved the car out of the driveway so I could drive it to work tomorrow. Got down out of the driveway and went park by the curb, damn CEL comes on. Check the codes again, 21 and 54 again! I'm guess I jarred something AGAIN putting the harnesses back in the ECU and move the car out of the drive way jarred it loose. The car runs so I'm going to drive it tomorrow but I probably won't get a chance to get back in there till the weekend. This is getting really aggravating.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  4. #54

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    I can send you my Gen3 MAP sensor if you wanna try it and see how it runs with it?
    2000 Absolute Red Celica GTS 6-Spd
    1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo


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  5. #55

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    ^Thanks Rob. I may take you up on that soon. I want to get my O2 sensor and code 54 issue fixed first. The car is drivable as it is right now, I just can't get full boost out of it.

    One question, where are getting you vacuum signal for the sensor from. I've got mine hooked into one of the manifold ports to the right of the throttle body. This line comes off of the manifold and then is teed to the MAP sensor and to that vacuum pot that goes up against the throttle linkage. Some people were saying that the MAP sensor should be on it's own line and definitely hooked into a manifold port. What's your opinion?
    Last edited by Nitro_Alltrac; 10-03-2014 at 02:44 AM.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  6. #56

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    Time for another update.

    My luck continues. As you may have seen I've got an issue with the O2 sensor wiring on the harness side of the plug. I decide to check that this evening to see if something was loose and long story short I ended up holding the harness plug and having 4 loose wires. On top of that the wires in my harness don't match the colors shown in the 92 wiring diagram manual. I took a guess on a couple of them but I'm still getting the 21 code.

    I'm also still getting the 54 WTA intercooler code. This one really pisses me off as the fix worked as long as I had the ECU laying in the floor. Since I've mounted the ECU in the correct spot I continue to get the 54 code. I've pulled the relay out and checked that it is working. I've pulled the harness plugs out and checked them, they appear OK. I've taken the LEV and INT wires that I had to add back out of the harness plug and put them back in to make sure that they are seated right. They appear to be prior to plugging them back into the ECU. I guess I'm going to have to pull the entire adapter harness back out, double check to make sure everything is still function as it should and put it back together. That is getting really frustrating.

    The good news is even with these problems the car seems to run better. It starts faster and doesn't sputter cold first thing in the morning. The power is good. The idle is starting to straighten out. I'm going to adjust the manual idle screw a little to see if I can get it down to 900 or so where it probably should be. I'm happy with the conversion I just wish I could get these last two CEL code issues fixed and then I'll move on to the MAP sensor issue.

    More later.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitro_Alltrac View Post
    ^Thanks Rob. I may take you up on that soon. I want to get my O2 sensor and code 54 issue fixed first. The car is drivable as it is right now, I just can't get full boost out of it.

    One question, where are getting you vacuum signal for the sensor from. I've got mine hooked into one of the manifold ports to the right of the throttle body. This line comes off of the manifold and then is teed to the MAP sensor and to that vacuum pot that goes up against the throttle linkage. Some people were saying that the MAP sensor should be on it's own line and definitely hooked into a manifold port. What's your opinion?
    I take signal where the stock sensor takes signal from. The nipple under the throttle body.
    2000 Absolute Red Celica GTS 6-Spd
    1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo


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  8. #58

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    Sounds like you're pulling from the correct location.

    I answered your other question in your other thread.

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  9. #59

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    Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. That where I thought I should be pulling from. Having that tee in the line won't hurt the signal will it?
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  10. #60

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    It shouldn't, no.
    - Mario
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    "We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a Habit."

  11. #61

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    Comes from the factory that way.

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  12. #62

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    ^^ This.
    - Mario
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  13. #63
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    I like the map to have its own port, but as long as there are no leaks, it's fine. You running on a Gen 2 map? I don't know if I really like the idea of the voltage divider... Map is now the most important sensor on your engine. I don't know how well the Gen 2 sensor responds. But I like trying new things so keep it up. :-)

    For the 54, have you tried just running m+, m-, and mtt directly to ground? And leave int just attached to the relay? Something seems odd to me in giving them resisted voltage and then bridging to ground anyway. I'd actually try unplugging pin 30 on your relay and double check your ground. I'm not sure what causes the ecu to throw the code exactly, but that seems like as good as anything to try. As an alternative, I would also try leaving the circuit as is and disconnecting the ground. There's something there if you bolted up the ecu (grounding it) and it threw the code again.

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    1988 ST165 2.2L @ 370awhp
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    1994 ST205 WRC
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  14. #64

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    Chris according to the right up on the UK GT4 site, there is a 4K ohm resister in the factory 205 harness. No body is exactly sure why it's there but without on a 205 they say you throw the codes. Supposedly somebody there had researched this (using the 2 1K resistors) for being able to go with a FMIC and not through the code. It doesn't make much sense to me but they swear it works. My set up was working before I bolted the ECU down and moved all of the harnesses.

    I'm using the 2nd gen MAP for now because I didn't want to have to lay out $175-200 for the 3rd gen MAP. I'm keeping an eye out for a better price and I've seen several reports that the 4th gen MAP sensor will work, just bolts up differently. Still verifying that one before I try to buy one.

    The 2nd gen MAP has worked OK so far. The only issue I'm having is that something doesn't seem to like to go about 10 PSI quickly. The car stutters and throw the turbo boost sensor code, 34 I think. I've read that the 2nd gen sensor doesn't have a really quick response time so I'm leaning that way. It makes sense give what the car does and that it's throwing that code. It runs fine out of boost and good up to 10 PSI or so.
    Last edited by Nitro_Alltrac; 10-05-2014 at 10:53 PM.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  15. #65

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    UPDATE:

    I think I've got the O2 sensor problem fixed. Following alltracman78's guidance, I checked for continuity through the OX sensor on the diagnostic port and found the right white wire. That one went to the blue wire on the sensor. Next, I turned the key on and check for 12V on the other three wire. Turns out in this case that it was the black/grey wire. I had previously checked and the wire going to the OX pin on the ECU was pink/black. I figured the pink/black wire in the O2 sensor harness would be the same as that one so I hooked it to the other black wire on the O2 sensor. The remaining white wire went to the white ground wire one the sensor. Fired the car up and NO code 21! Hopefully that one stays fixed for now.

    I worked on the harness again for the code 54 issue. It looks like the wire that I ran for the INT pin on the ECU isn't staying far enough up in the ECU plug to make contact. I've check the other 4 pins (MTT, M, M+, LEV) and they all seem to be OK. I pushed the INT connector all the way up in the connector and again and put everything back together. When I fired the car up, no CEL. I let it run for 5-10 minutes and no light. Pulled it out of the driveway to take it for a run and the damn light came on. Code 54 again. I'm guess that connector was close when I put everything back together but moving the car caused it to move back again. Not sure though. It is on the plug closest to the fire wire and in the middle of the mess of wires. It's really hard to get to with everything plugged in. I did try pushing it in again with everything plugged in but I didn't start the car back up. I guess I'll see in the morning. I may end up pulling that connector back out of the pull and rewiring that one if this didn't work.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  16. #66

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    Have you ever been able to drive around without 54?
    The code doesn't usually come up until you drive.
    Where's the weak connection? The Berk harness or the factory harness? If it's the factory harness you can remove the pins and join them outside the harness [wrap in tape].
    If it's the Berk, it's warranty time.

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  17. #67

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    I was able to drive it without the code 54 until I bolted the ECU back in place. While I was checked everything and chasing codes after firing it up for the first time I had the ECU laying in the passenger footwell.

    Where I think the weak connection is occurring is in a wire I had to add to the Berk harness. Since the harness is built for the MR2, it has empty spots for the LEV and INT pins. I had to add wires into both slots. I got the ECU connectors and put them onto the end of the wires then put them into the slots. The one that I put in the LEV slot seems to be staying put fine. The one that goes into the INT slot is the one that appears to be backing out. I used 18 gauge wire as this was the smallest the auto parts store had but I think that is part of the problem. It seems like the wire is a little too big for the connector and is causing the connector to catch a little in the slot on the plug. I may need to get a little smaller gauge and redo this one with a new connector and see if it goes better and stays.

    Since this one is on 26 pin plug and way that the ECU bolts into my car, this wire is on the bottom toward the firewall so it's kind of hard to get to with everything plugged in. I was able to kind of get to it yesterday to push that specific wire in further so I'll see what happens with it today.

    This has been a frustrating part of this conversion. If you used the MR2 ECU you wouldn't have this issue but it has it's own quirks with the traction control thing. There are two extra pins on that one you have to do something with but I think in that case it's just grounding those two pins.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  18. #68

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    You don't have any spare harnesses? I always use them for wire.

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  19. #69

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    Nope. Right now just have the one in the car. I've been building what I need so far. No pic n pulls here. That's something I reaaaaaaally miss about San Antonio.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  20. #70

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    Ive got spare harnesses for wire too. Good shizz.
    2000 Absolute Red Celica GTS 6-Spd
    1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo


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  21. #71

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    I'm going to have to make a trip to the pic n pull in Columbus OH and pick up some harnesses.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  22. #72

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    UPDATE

    I've been fighting the code 54 problem off and on since the last post. I thought that I might have a bad relay so I replaced that. No change. I got to looking at the wire that I had going into that slot on the plug. The wire was a little big and it looked like it wasn't letting the connector go all the way forward to match up with the ECU pin. I took some of the wire harness out of Bruce's car while we were pulling it apart this week. I used it yesterday to rewire that particular wire in the plug. No change.

    I went back out today and checked some more and pulled that plug out of the ECU ago. I checked with the multimeter and I had power all the way to the back of the plug. I flipped the plug around and checked on the ECU side. No power. I got to looking and it looked the connector had slipped back in the plug and wasn't making contact with the ECU pin possibly. I fooled with it and couldn't really seem to get it to stay where it need to be. I worked on it some more and got it where I could get voltage right at the very front of the plug without having to insert the probe into the plug.

    I plugged the connector back into the ECU and hit the key. I revved the engine up some and the light came back on. I went back to the ECU and was finally able to see the connector in the plug. It looked like it had moved back again when I put the plug back into the ECU. I was able to take the multimeter probe and push the wire connector up into place. Hit the key again and revved the engine up. No light. Not getting excited at this point.

    I didn't have a lot of time but I did back the car out of the driveway and parked it on the street. Still no light. I'm not 100% positive but I might have got it this time. Every other time I've thought I had it, when I backed the car out of the driveway, I had the CEL had come on by the time I got to the end of the driveway. I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I drive to work if I have gotten this time.

    Hopefully this got it. I'm pretty much down to the point now that changing out the ECU is going to be the next step. The other wires involved in the code fix were already in the Berk harness so I don't think they're the problem. I've to power coming out of the relay where it's supposed to be so that should be OK and hopefully the INT pin is getting power now. I'm thinking that I've got it now since I didn't get a light at the bottom of the driveway but I'll know for sure when I actually drive it tomorrow. Keep your fingers crossed!
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  23. #73

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    Hoping for the best for you Mike!
    - Mario
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  24. #74

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    Drove it to work this morning, 20+ miles, no CEL. I think I got this one finally solved hopefully.

    This evening I'm going to try and see if the boost issue at 10 PSI and above is actually the response time of the 2nd gen MAP sensor or if it had to do with the ECU thinking the intercooler wasn't working correctly. I didn't really think about it before but I have read that the ECU will make changes to limit the amount of boost if it thinks the intercooler pump isn't running and therefore the intercooler not working as it should. I'm hoping this is the case.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  25. #75

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    Yeah. Its called "limp mode"

    It also holds timing back too. So yeah, hopefully you got that sorted.
    2000 Absolute Red Celica GTS 6-Spd
    1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo


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