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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Facime View Post
    Lets be careful we are using the correct terminology for clarity sake. You use the word pistons but display the bearings in the rods and rod caps. The piston is the round thing on top

    Pistons are not interchangable between GE and GTE due to compression differences. Rods/caps are. Your rods are fine either way, they were protected by the bearings (whats left of them). I would like to see some pictures of the bores and of the sides (skirts) of the pistons. Again, only a machine shop will be able to tell you if your pistons and bores are enough within spec to be re-used (deglaze and re-ring) or to far past it to re-use (Bore/hone w/new pistons).

    That crankshaft if pretty mangled but only a machine shop will be able to tell you if they can make it usable again. May have to go .20 under to get it fully smooth again.
    I will get more pics later. I was just using the term piston as a summary of where it came from on the block...........not a lot of logic in naming lol.

    On the pistons, everything I have read says the GE pistons are the same..........or maybe not the same, but still useable since the CR diff is .3, if I recall correctly. Is this wrong?

    * Apparently it is a .7 difference. I will be going standalone on this motor, so could I use this as a small upgrade? Or just get a thicker HG to offset it? I know I can buy new pistons for a decent price on ebay, but just trying to evaluate costs and where I can safely trim.
    Last edited by UtahSleeper; 02-27-2014 at 09:51 PM. Reason: researched

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  2. #52

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    The GE pistons should be 9.2:1 CR and the GTE pistons should be 8.5:1. That may not seem like much but when running anything over stock boost you are going to have to pay close attention to detonation. If it were me, Id plan less compression more boost rather than higher compression less boost. Maybe thats just me.

    Its too early to worry about it though at this point. You need to have your bores checked and measured against both sets of pistons to see if they are even within tollerance. If not you need new pistons anyway. Personally I would just plan for new pistons. They arent very expensive anyway when purchased as part of a kit.
    “It's amazing how once the mind is free of emotional pollution, logic and clarity emerge...
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  3. #53
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    Well, small update. She is about to go into build mode now that my Corolla is down for an extended period of time. Things that are being done or about to be done are as follows:

    -Block and crank was taken to machine shop today (Thank you Mr Turrara for reference)
    -Need to order rebuild items(pistons, gaskets, etc)
    -Need front wheel bearings
    -Install the Aeroform kit
    -Finish cleaning the engine bay
    -Exhaust(Since PO made it all one piece)

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  4. #54

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    if you are having the engine bored, any good machine shop would require the pistons to match the bores to. One does not simply bore ".0X0 over" and assume the pistons you order will fit.
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    Yet, it's our emotions and imperfections that makes us human.”
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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Facime View Post
    if you are having the engine bored, any good machine shop would require the pistons to match the bores to. One does not simply bore ".0X0 over" and assume the pistons you order will fit.
    Yea, I haven't ordered pistons or bearings yet. He needs the rods first to see what bearings to buy there. He also needs to measure the cylinders before I order anything so I can know what size to order so he can then use them to match. Hoping to be able to use a stock size, or .020 over. But I will probably know more at the end of the week.

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  6. #56
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    Well, turned out my crank was toast on my original motor. Instead of trying to find a good one and keep using a motor that is the first gen, I decided to get a 4th gen motor

    So, making a note for myself and posting links to ST215/3sgte related stuff.

    http://www.caldina.org/Documents/CaldinaElectrical.pdf

    Replacement parts: http://www.primemr2.com/

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  7. #57

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    How was the crank "toast" (what was so far out of spec that it couldn't be machined)

    So are you planning on buying a front clip?
    “It's amazing how once the mind is free of emotional pollution, logic and clarity emerge...
    Yet, it's our emotions and imperfections that makes us human.”
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  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Facime View Post
    How was the crank "toast" (what was so far out of spec that it couldn't be machined)

    So are you planning on buying a front clip?
    It could be machined, but would have been so far out of spec that I would not have been able to find bearings for it. He had spit off numbers and from the research I had done, I believed him. All the rebuild kits I had seen were std, .010 and and .020 on the rod(I think), my current crank would have had to gone to .040.

    And no front clip. All the research I have done on this motor make it out to be a straight drop into the engine bay(move accessories over) and fix the wiring to work with the guages and such.

    I may have bit off more then I can chew, but it sounds like the performance, for what I want, will be worth it when done.

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  9. #59

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    So probably the crank had been turned before and the latest failure scored it beyond that. That's rather rare unless the bearings completely fail or "spin". I had really back knock in the bottom of a GM 2.8 once and when I took it apart I found one of the rod bearings halves had rotated and doubled up on the other one, leaving the crank to bounce off the rod cap with every revolution. Yeah...that crank (and the rod as well) was done.


    Ive usually opted for rebuilding what I have in favor of swaps. My feeling with a swap is that you just don't know what you are getting into, and could end up with a motor that is already on its last legs. Rebuilding what I have is a "known quantity". I know, lots of people have had success with swaps. Im just leary of them myself.

    If you find a decent swap setup, it would be smart to tear into it a bit before installing it. Drop the pan, and pull the mains and rod caps and mic everything. If you keep it all in order and are careful about being clean, you should be able to simply re-install-retorque everything without issue if everything is good. This will also give you an opportunity to see the cylinder walls from below to judge their condition without taking the head off.

    Then re-seal everything and use a new timing set/water pump/oil pump.

    Its worth the peace of mind, ihmo.
    “It's amazing how once the mind is free of emotional pollution, logic and clarity emerge...
    Yet, it's our emotions and imperfections that makes us human.”
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  10. #60
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    Facime: Thanks for the input. I agree with the piece of mind, but on this motors case, I plan on mostly straight installing it. If I get the harness back quick enough, the engine may still have a warranty and I dont want to chance screwing that up. If the warranty is up, well, the worst case is I learn to rebuild this motor lol. In all honesty, I just want to get the motor in and I know if I start opening stuff up I will lose motivation, so I am taking the gamble that my time wont be wasted and all is in decent shape I probably would open it up if I had any confidence with doing any internal motor work. Never rebuilt a motor or replaced anything internally.

    Well, small update.

    Ordered the engine Thursday, got it Wednesday. Very quick shipping!!!
    No over abundance of oil in the intake, but a thin, oily layer on the turbo intake and outlet.
    Think the timing belt had been replaced, or is just in really good shape.
    Aside from dirt and grime, the exterior looks great.
    The IC has seen WAY better days. May have to try and find a new one, but the current should work for initial starting.

    So, I filled out and printed off an order form for mr220 and hope to package and ship my harness this weekend or early next week.

    While waiting for that I will try and do the following:
    Stiffen up the east/west mounts.
    Figure out how to mount the passenger side mount.
    Get my flywheel/clutch and transmission mounted(I assume I need an alignment tool).
    Rebuild and install the original PS pump as I dont want to redo the hoses to use the new pump.

    Anything I am missing?

    And I know alot of people like to crack open a used motor, and I understand why, but I am planning to just drop this motor in and hope it runs well enough Whats the worst that happens, its toast? I wont truly know this till after the warranty is probably up anyway lol.

    I will try and post pictures later.

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  11. #61

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    well, if you put that motor in without at least changing the timing belt and water pump, I believe you are making a HUGE MISTAKE. That doesn't require a huge amount of work while the motor is on the stand, but its a MAJOR pain in the ass once in the car.


    This is what is called "penny wise, pound foolish". Shortcuts rarely work out in the world of automotive repair.



    that's my .02
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    Yet, it's our emotions and imperfections that makes us human.”
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  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Facime View Post
    well, if you put that motor in without at least changing the timing belt and water pump, I believe you are making a HUGE MISTAKE. That doesn't require a huge amount of work while the motor is on the stand, but its a MAJOR pain in the ass once in the car.


    This is what is called "penny wise, pound foolish". Shortcuts rarely work out in the world of automotive repair.



    that's my .02
    Should have said, I do plan on doing that part lol. Timing belts are alot easier with the motor sitting on a pallete in my garage lol. I was mostly addressing the removing the oil pan and checking the internals.

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  13. #63

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    If you have the know how and skill to change a timing belt, you can open up a bottom end. I would at least like to see whats in the bottom of the pan and then reseal it with FIPG, even if I didn't check the bearings. Looking in the bottom of the pan if you see what looks like copper flakes you will know you have at least one bearing that's bad. No copper flakes, and nothing loose inside, = good to go.
    “It's amazing how once the mind is free of emotional pollution, logic and clarity emerge...
    Yet, it's our emotions and imperfections that makes us human.”
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  14. #64
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    So, here is the motor, partially dismantled. Still need to pull the plugs and see what the condition was of the motor.



    Here is the pressure line connected to the new PS pump that came with the motor. Just wanted to verify it would be usable.



    Here are the passenger side mounts. Left is 215, right is 165. Should bolt on fine.



    Here is the IC.



    In all its glory :/ Plan to replace it after everything is installed and running.



    And the car as she currently sits.



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  15. #65
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli has a reputation beyond repute 4thgenceli's Avatar
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    Reminder for me later...

    Where did you get the motor from?

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    Jasmine - 1989 GTS. GenIV 3s-gte, e153 LSD transmission, 3" turbo-back exhaust. SOLD

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  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4thgenceli View Post
    Reminder for me later...

    Where did you get the motor from?

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    The seller is japan_star_motor on eBay. No bad reviews that I could see and they were quick to reply to my messages prior to purchase.

    The motor is as pictured(minus the underside of the IC) and I received the motor in less then a week. If it starts and runs then I will view it as a win.

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  17. #67
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    Here's my thoughts on it.

    I too did the same (ST215) swap. I got mine from a distributor that was more on the west coast (Venus Auto up in Sacramento). I tore it down and did a simple re-build on it. New OEM head gasket, water pump, all gaskets, timing belt, tensioner, thermostat, etc. I tore the oil pan off to inspect the bottom end. I didn't take off the caps and mic anything out but just did a visual. If something would of been loose or didn't look right I would of tore the bottom apart and refreshed the whole motor.

    Personally I'd at least tear the pan off to look at it and then make a call from there. My motor ran great, pulled strong and gave me no issues at all (well, except for when the turbo seized but that's another story).

    The stock ST215 TMIC won't fit. You'll need to cut the hood for airflow & for fitment. I can't find the picture I have of it but I put the TMIC on and closed the hood. I would of needed to take out a good chunk of the hood skin & frame to get it to fit. Here's a shot of the st215 in the st16x chassis. I had to remove some of the hood heat shield and notch out a bit of the frame support for the throttle to move freely.

    Last edited by 4thgenceli; 10-09-2014 at 05:08 PM.
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  18. #68
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    I will remove the pan to atleast look at the insides. Its something to do while the harness is getting worked on.

    Also, I do plan on cutting the hood for clearance and making a scoop for it. Figure I will worry about it when everything is installed and running though, since no need for the hood to be installed till then lol.

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  19. #69

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    might I recommend not removing the substructure, but instead cutting through the surface and the substructure together and raising a section to create a raised cowl and scoop.

    I did that to several supra hoods and they turned out great. Here are a couple pictures to give you some ideas.


    The stock supra cowl bump is about 3/4" tall. I raised the whole section about 1.25" to give a total cowl height of 2" on this particular hood.
















    On this hood I did a similar cowl lift but also did a reverse front vent:



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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Facime View Post
    That's ugly and you are a doody-head.














    :fapping:

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    Yoda for President

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  21. #71
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    You dont have an example of work like that done to make a scoop? Too me I just envision it not looking right with have an opening lift like that.....but most scoops I see are stock.

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  22. #72
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    While I will be looking for examples of making a scoop similar to the vents and cowls shown here, these are some of the ideas I have for bolt on scoops if I go that route.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hood-scoop-u...5f7012&vxp=mtr

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Bo...8f2d7f&vxp=mtr

    Mind you, these are just the first couple examples I could find. Still have time to research, but want to figure it out before I get the car running.

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  23. #73

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    yeah, a bolt on scoop is fine too. I don't see a problem with using something like that. I would just try to minimize cutting the structure of the hood to as little as possible and/or trying it back in via extensions like I showed on the hoods I did.

    It might not be that big of a deal on a short hood like that on the celica, but on the supra I was concerned about getting flex and vibration at speed.
    “It's amazing how once the mind is free of emotional pollution, logic and clarity emerge...
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  24. #74

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    Over the last few years, I've wanted to pick up an ST185. But more recently, I'm more drawn to the ST165... I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

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  25. #75
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    Well, small update.

    -I have sent off the my harness to have it modified to work in the st165.
    -The stock flywheel bolts are too small for the motor(the threaded portion). Need to see what is needed here. Flywheel seems to line up properly.

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