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Thread: Rad Fans

  1. #1
    Senior Member DudeMan will become famous soon enough DudeMan's Avatar

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    Default Rad Fans

    Recently I realized the stock rad fan is too large to fit my FMIC piping and a straight intake.

    Right now I'm thinking the best solution would be to mount a pusher fan in front of the rad to allow for the most clearance.

    My question is should I buy an aftermarket unit or could I use the AC condesor fan in front of the rad?

    I could probably mount and wire it up in a couple hours, plus it would be the cheapest option.. I'm just wondering if its strong enough to do the job.

    Thoughts?
    -Chase

    1990 4Runner SR5
    1990 Celica GT-Four

  2. #2
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    Buy a slimmer fan to replace the stock one. There is room to install the stock fan on the other side also. You should be able to slide it behind the bracket that the hood look and horns are mounted to.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member DudeMan will become famous soon enough DudeMan's Avatar

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    Default

    Since the stock fan is normally mounted behind the rad wouldn't that make it a puller?

    I assume the AC fan is a pusher since its mounted in the opposite direction.
    -Chase

    1990 4Runner SR5
    1990 Celica GT-Four

  4. #4
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    Default

    The fans push air. At least mine do.

    When Idling both of my fans are pushing air into the radiator and condenser.

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  5. #5
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    If I were you I would buy a slimmer fan to replace the stock one. Keep a fan directly on the radiator.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hookecho View Post
    The fans push air. At least mine do.

    When Idling both of my fans are pushing air into the radiator and condenser.
    If they are mounted behind the radiator (in the engine bay) and "pushing" air from the engine bay into the radiator, then (if it's aftermarket, you got the wrong one, it should be pulling air from the radiator into the engine bay), (if it's factory, then you have it wired backwards)

    The fans should be (pushing if mounted on front of radiator/pulling if mounted behind the radiator) air into the engine bay from the cool outside air.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DudeMan will become famous soon enough DudeMan's Avatar

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    Default

    ^ Yeah, that's what I was thinking.

    I've already decided I want it mounted in front of the rad (pusher), my question is; do I need to buy an aftermarket unit like a Spal or is the condesor fan sufficient?
    -Chase

    1990 4Runner SR5
    1990 Celica GT-Four

  8. #8
    Senior Member DudeMan will become famous soon enough DudeMan's Avatar

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    Default

    And either way it would be mounted directly to the rad, not the chassis.

    You can see in this pic I have it mounted with zip ties and washers.. Kinda ghetto, but functional.

    It would just be on the right side.

    -Chase

    1990 4Runner SR5
    1990 Celica GT-Four

  9. #9
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    Hmm. I'm still using the stock fan. So all I have to do is reverse the 2 wires to make it pull.

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  10. #10

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    2 Very important reasons that's a bad idea.

    1-The rad fan has a "plate" around it that won't let air flow past it. It works on the inside of the radiator because it forces airflow to go through the fan. If you put it on the outside it's going to block airflow through the rad [it's not designed to work that way].
    2-The fan blades are designed to pull air. If you wire them backwards they're not going to work as well [Idiots did the same thing to my Alltrac, stuck a pusher on the inside and wired it backwards. It's half ass].

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  11. #11

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    I haven't shopped for the same for a celica, but I have a flex'a'lite dual puller setup on the supra. It's a one-piece unit with a full shroud and probably half or less as thick as the stock fan. They worked beautifully in Texas heat when I was daily driving the 7m down there. The better kits even come with a thermostat so they only kick on when needed based on a temp probe in the rad fins.
    ra·tion·al·ize /ˈręʃənlˌaɪz, ˈręʃnlˌaɪz/ Show Spelled [rash-uh-nl-ahyz, rash-nl-ahyz] Show IPA verb, -ized, -iz·ing.
    –verb (used with object)
    1. to ascribe (one's acts, opinions, etc.) to causes that superficially seem reasonable and valid but that actually are unrelated to the true, possibly unconscious and often less creditable or agreeable causes.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by alltracman78 View Post
    2 Very important reasons that's a bad idea.

    1-The rad fan has a "plate" around it that won't let air flow past it. It works on the inside of the radiator because it forces airflow to go through the fan. If you put it on the outside it's going to block airflow through the rad [it's not designed to work that way].
    2-The fan blades are designed to pull air. If you wire them backwards they're not going to work as well [Idiots did the same thing to my Alltrac, stuck a pusher on the inside and wired it backwards. It's half ass].

    ^^^^^I agree. not only that but with the age of the stock fans you would be putting a tremendous strain on the motor and cause it to prematurely fail. With the design and effectiveness(if thats a word) newer slimmer fans pull/push alot more air and does a great job of cooling.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by alltracman78 View Post
    2 Very important reasons that's a bad idea.

    1-The rad fan has a "plate" around it that won't let air flow past it. It works on the inside of the radiator because it forces airflow to go through the fan. If you put it on the outside it's going to block airflow through the rad [it's not designed to work that way].
    2-The fan blades are designed to pull air. If you wire them backwards they're not going to work as well [Idiots did the same thing to my Alltrac, stuck a pusher on the inside and wired it backwards. It's half ass].
    Hold on here, we're all going off on a tangent...

    The guy said this:

    The fans push air. At least mine do.

    When Idling both of my fans are pushing air into the radiator and condenser.
    he then said this:

    Hmm. I'm still using the stock fan
    The stock fans are Puller fans... They pull air through the radiator into the engine bay... If his fans are acting as pusher fans, then they are wired backwards... However I honestly belive he is mistaken and his fans are actually pulling air.

    With SOME fans, the blades are symetrical, and with SOME fans, the motors can be run either way. However with most high flow fans, the blades are asymetrical and motors are only designed to spin one way, so they should only be wired/configured as designed.

  14. #14
    Senior Member DudeMan will become famous soon enough DudeMan's Avatar

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    Well since the condesor fan faces the engine bay would it be safe to assume its a pusher? And therefore okay to use on the front of the rad?

    Either way, its already mounted and wired up.. I have a feeling it will work fine. If not, I'll just grab a SPAL pusher or something and mount it in the same location.
    -Chase

    1990 4Runner SR5
    1990 Celica GT-Four

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    the difference between a "pusher" and "puller" fan is the direction of airflow to the mounting surface.

  16. #16

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    I use a single flex-a-lite 12" pusher. Works great

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
    You can see in this pic I have it mounted with zip ties and washers.. Kinda ghetto, but functional.
    ^^ I've been running with a zip tie mounted fan for over half a year...lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by alltracman78 View Post
    2 Very important reasons that's a bad idea.

    1-The rad fan has a "plate" around it that won't let air flow past it. It works on the inside of the radiator because it forces airflow to go through the fan. If you put it on the outside it's going to block airflow through the rad [it's not designed to work that way].
    2-The fan blades are designed to pull air. If you wire them backwards they're not going to work as well [Idiots did the same thing to my Alltrac, stuck a pusher on the inside and wired it backwards. It's half ass].
    I did find out the truth of this the hard way - not on a car - but on an LED light.

    We have this one product that I call the "monster light" - it has 176 HB LEDs that dissipate ~525W of power - and that's allot of heat!

    This is a light used on sound stages and filming studios to make effects and also to act as a spotlight. We had severe thermal issues with it because we had to have fans with extremely low noise.

    We experimented with a number of different heatsink and mounting techniques - and in that process I did find that - at least for the fans I was getting - the blades are very different between pulling and pushing fans.

    Among other conclusions we found that the fan configuration that pulled seemed to be much more efficient than the pushers and that the gap between the fan blade and the housing was a large factor in the efficiency. Finally - the fans with the "liquid bearings" were by far the best, both for noise and flow due to the fact that the gap between the fan blades and housing was minimum.
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    The condenser fan is a pusher fan. You'll be fine!

    I'm using slim fans set up in a pusher style. Symmetrical blades, designed to be reversible. I was running just one for a while, but adding a 2nd one now that I've pulled the A/C.
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  20. #20
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    With the turbo set up that came with my car the radiator was mounted under the front hood latch area. This pushed the radiator back about 3 inches allowing fans to be mounted with plenty of room but there was a hole cut in the body of the car to allow access to the radiator cap. Kinda ghetto but effective. Just an idea....

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