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  1. #1

    Default Broken catalytic converter studs

    Removing the rusted nuts on the catalytic converter studs turned into broken studs.

    What's the best route to take now?
    1. Cut the studs, and try extracting them.
    2. Drill, tap and dye for new studs.
    3. Get a new catalytic converter.

    I don't feel like spending a whole lot for this, because I don't plan on having this damn motor forever.

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  2. #2
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    I have always - as a general thing - pressed out broken studs - mainly wheel studs in a hub.

    For your situation - in a cast iron manifold - maybe drilling is a better option to lessen the risk of breaking the cast iron ears on the manifold.

    My GT has a header - the manifold that came with it as a spare has the same problem - stripped out and broken studs. If you need another manifold for a 5s with broken studs - I've got one.

    When I built cars in the past - I always used brass nuts on all my exhaust system components near the engine - especially the manifold. That way - the nut is easy to split off in case it is frozen and getting rounded.
    92 STX "Mr. St" - Daily Driver
    91 Alltrac - Project beater fast car
    93 GTS - Project luxury road car

  3. #3

    Default

    These are the three studs that connect to the exhaust going back. I'm afraid for a repeat if I try to remove the cat.

    Good call on the brass. I have on one occasion, had success on using stainless nuts that bite better to the softer stud. My angle grinder is en-route, so I get to wait another week before I have a car.

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  4. #4
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    Funny you should bring this up - as I am just thinking tonight about getting an in-line high flow cat for my GT - which I am about to make a thread about because my daughter is getting it and I need to get it inspected.

    Brass nuts are the way to go for exhaust stuff you might want to take apart and put back together at some point. Another thing - and I don't really know the right name - I call them "conical washers" - but they are actually like a "Bellville washer" which is actually a spring - but it makes for a lock washer that can take large extremes of temperature excursions and never loosen up on you.
    92 STX "Mr. St" - Daily Driver
    91 Alltrac - Project beater fast car
    93 GTS - Project luxury road car

  5. #5

    Default

    I would just cut them off, drill out whats left and retap.

    Liberal application of anti-sieze when reinstalling is always a good idea but you can also buy stainless steel studs and nuts.
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  6. #6

    Default

    The cost of an in line cat over the funky design of this one is why I hate working with this setup. If I could just delete this and go with something universal, my life would be golden.

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  7. #7

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    Buy a header one peice fit that eliminates the exhaust manifold and cat, run it without a cat until its getting close to DEQ inspection time then install an aftermarket cat in your exhaust pipping? Its cheap, easy and add's power..

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by NFluckey View Post
    Buy a header one peice fit that eliminates the exhaust manifold and cat, run it without a cat until its getting close to DEQ inspection time then install an aftermarket cat in your exhaust pipping? Its cheap, easy and add's power..
    I suppose I could go this route as well. Problem is, most of the cheap headers I have seen crack. I also don't have a flex pipe which I imagine will only increase the likely hood of a cracked exhaust manifold. What do I do with my O2 sensor?

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  9. #9

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    You should have heated the shit out of the nuts before you removed them. Note for future use.
    Your best bet is to heat the flange til it's cherry red and remove the stud with a vise grip. It will probably require multiple heatings. This is how I remove them.
    If you don't have acess to a torch, drilling is possible, but usually a PITA.
    You mentioned an angle grinder; if you cut off the stud flat, you can cut a U shape into the flange, cutting out the remaining part of the stud. This is easier and less hassle than drilling, and you can still stick a bolt in the U.
    Also, Toyota exhaust studs/nuts are usually stainless, vs the cheap stuff from Autocrap, ect. Toyota exhaust studs and nuts don't break all that often, they usually do a pretty good job, especially if you heat them first on the pipe stuff.
    Lots of antisieze helps too.

    Quote Originally Posted by klapa View Post
    I have always - as a general thing - pressed out broken studs - mainly wheel studs in a hub.
    Why the hell would you even consider pressing out a threaded stud? Thats just begging for broken parts. Wheel studs are a whole different thing than threaded in studs.

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  10. #10

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    I don't need to be emissions tested for 2 years. I've been seriously considering the upgraded header route. If I delete the cat, I can run an O2 sensor in the new header. I just have no idea as to which header to pickup that won't crack on me.

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  11. #11

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    http://www.amazon.com/M2-Performance.../dp/B002FCC4YG

    This has me tempted, but it seems to say "will crack".

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  12. #12
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    You're right about it cracking. Buy a Flex pipe and weld/clamp it to the pipe.

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  13. #13
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    Considered the late-1990s tubular manifold off the Camry-equipped 5SFE or trying to find a 3SGE 4-2-1 manifold? Toyota/Yamaha built, so quality should not be an issue.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by alltracman78 View Post
    Why the hell would you even consider pressing out a threaded stud? Thats just begging for broken parts. Wheel studs are a whole different thing than threaded in studs.
    I just looked - and you are right - these studs are threaded in and do not have splines like the hub studs i am used to pressing out.

    Plus - such a "nice" way to "point that out", eh Alltracman78?
    92 STX "Mr. St" - Daily Driver
    91 Alltrac - Project beater fast car
    93 GTS - Project luxury road car

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by klapa View Post
    Plus - such a "nice" way to "point that out", eh Alltracman78?
    The word "barn" is in my name and I moved to California to find work. Maybe he's just emphasizing it incase I'm a retard and try using a press.

    I've seen quite a few at the junkyards out here. Problem is the cat is usually gone, or destroyed. I'd take cast-iron over pot metal anyday of the week. If I can locate one for a good price, ill buy it.

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  16. #16

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    Got my angle grinder today. Studs to be cut and drilled tonight. Car to be back on the road tonight. I wanna go to the damn beach tomorrow!

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  17. #17

    Default

    To update this thread and leave it to rest, I got a couple hardened cobalt steel drill bits and drilled out 3 of the studs. Broke the bit twice, and got my exchange, and then final refund. Tapping that 3rd stud was a real bitch, but slow and steady won the race. I dropped my stainless bolts into the bored out holes and finished the job. I used some exhaust gasket material I cut to ensure the seal is good, because I can't promise everything is perfectly tightened down. Cheap exhaust fix has me happy so I can move onto other things.

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  18. #18
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    Congrats Car Barn!

    As it is - I will be getting a catalytic converter in the GT that was formerly miner and now my daughter's tomorrow.

    As this car has a header - it was necessary to find one that could just be welded up in the mid-pipe. This was made a bit more difficult due to the fact that the exhaust pipe in this car is 2.5" while nearly every unit I looked at listed for this car was 2.25" - but I think I found a suitable unit that is not so costly that will do well enough:

    NAPA P/N EXH 15038.

    I can see why you are determined to save your old stock unit - this converter I found cost $83.99 - and it is good for the 49 states and even Canada - but if I needed the same thing for California - it would be NAPA P/N EXH 80586 - cost $164.00!

    I know what the guy who sold me the GT said - that when he took out that clogged up CAT the thing revved so much faster and higher - just better.

    I don't mind paying the extra money to put the converter in - in this case "in-line" with the mid pipe - cuz this car has a header that I want to keep.

    Even if I do have a "Russian friend in the inspection business" it is just better overall to do the right thing and be legal. For here in NC - that just means I have a CAT - for you in California - well - that's just another can of worms all together.
    92 STX "Mr. St" - Daily Driver
    91 Alltrac - Project beater fast car
    93 GTS - Project luxury road car

  19. #19

    Default

    Basically, I didn't want to spend more then $20 fixing a problem. As much as I enjoy having this engine running, I am not in the mood or market to upgrade it. Most upgrades I am performing are to make room for the larger V6 when I have the space to swap it. It would have been a walk in the park to swap exhaust parts out if it wasn't against the law to sell used catalytic converters.

    It will be easier to take this off the road for longer periods of time when my other half is around with a secondary vehicle.

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Car_Barn_Bandit View Post
    Basically, I didn't want to spend more then $20 fixing a problem.
    Wow! I can barely do lunch for less than $10 - much less "fix" anything.
    92 STX "Mr. St" - Daily Driver
    91 Alltrac - Project beater fast car
    93 GTS - Project luxury road car

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by klapa View Post
    Wow! I can barely do lunch for less than $10 - much less "fix" anything.
    I can do 10 lunches if I start with Ramen...

    $2.97 gasket
    $4.10 SS hardware
    $4.97 drill bit(s)
    $9 gasket material

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  22. #22

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    Lesson for you

    Whenever you're doing exhaust work, heat the shit out of the nuts/bolts before you try to remove them.
    Unless they're too rotted to be useable.

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  23. #23
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    Yea - even a propane torch can help - while it won't get things cherry red it is good to heat the thing up enough to get penetrating oil to boil into the rusty threads.

    That - along with a little mechanical shock by tapping with a hammer to loosen up the rust can work wonders.

    I still like brass nuts on exhaust things I might need to take apart later - then the stud does not get stripped - the nut does and you can just wring it off.
    92 STX "Mr. St" - Daily Driver
    91 Alltrac - Project beater fast car
    93 GTS - Project luxury road car

  24. #24
    Senior Member jaydog82 is on a distinguished road

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    Default

    i have a 4th gen jdm 3sge 4 to 2 to 1 manifold for sale, it worked great in my 90gt. it does take some welding to get it fitted and there is no place to install an o2 sensor.


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    JDM engine and new turbo. SPEC stage 2 clutch,walbro 255lph fuel pump, AEM dry flow filter and custom 3" straight intake, 3" ausie DP, upgraded HE and heat wrapped ST165 WTA IC, 8mm magnacore wires, speedsorce solid motor mounts, ASI Aluminum RAD, 2micron second oil filter kit, prosport EGT-BOOST-WB O2 gauges, all new: seals/gaskets/belts/hoses/ Water Pump/ Timing belt kit, Rebuilt half shafts, new drive shaft u-joints, new control bushings, cleaned and balanced injectors,

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