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  1. #1
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    Default Auto to Manual Transmission Swap - How To

    It took me a couple of days and was not as difficult a task as I expected it to be. I spent a few minutes this morning getting the driver side carpet buttoned back into place. You'll see in the pictures that i had forgotten to do that.

    I used all of the parts from a 91 ST and the Trans from an 89 GT.

    I did run into a couple of bumps in the road though. Everything was going smoothly until I went to install the cross member and discovered that both bolt holes were stripped out. Meaning that there were no threads at all in the holes. So I had to tap the holes and install larger bolts.

    Another problem I ran into was the fact that the transmission and mount came out of an 89 GT. So the mount lined up differently and wouldn't work on my car. I ended up fabricating a hybrid mount using the auto trans mount and GT mount. It works very well.

    I didn't like the throw of the ST shifter so I used a shifter lever from the 89 GT.

    The shifter cables from an ST are different from the GT in respect that they do not seat deep enough into the mounting brackets of the S53 transmission. I have the tools necessary to fix that sort of problem so I did just that. They work just fine now.

    Being that I have a 3sgte I had to use the 3sgte flywheel and pressure plate and a clutch disc and throw out bearing for an S53.

    So to sum it up everything needed for a swap can come from an ST except the shifter cables and trans.

    Anyway, I'm loving the 5 speed with the 3sgte. It noticeably faster and a huge weight reduction going from the auto trans to a manual. I think a torque converter weighs as much as the 5 speed trans, lol. The front end feels lighter now and the worn out struts don't bottom out anymore.

    I like. Torque steer is a pita though.

    Now for the step by step write up. This is written for both us 3sgte swappers and the 5sfe folks going from auto to manual.

    I would suggest finding a donor car that is the same generation and trim. Although I didn't so it doesn't matter as long as you source all of the parts. The parts needed are as follows.

    Transmission
    Clutch master cylinder
    Clutch pedal bracket and all nuts/springs/pins/clips attached
    Clutch pedal
    Clutch cancel switch
    Brake pedal
    Shifter assembly
    Shift cables
    Cable clip x4
    Clutch line lower came on trans
    Clutch line clip x2 00000-00000
    Slave cylinder that come on trans
    Trans mount
    Flywheel
    Flywheel bolts
    Clutch pressure plate, disc and throw out bearing
    Pressure plate bolts
    Trans bell housing bolts x3(you can use the ones from the auto trans)
    Starter relay
    Clutch start switch

    If it was used on the donor car you'll need it for your swap.

    The first thing you'll want to do is remove the auto transmission. Refer to the instructions in your repair manual for this.

    Remove the the plastic cover plate from around the shifter.



    Next remove the face plate from around the radio and remove the radio.



    Remove the plastics and metal cover from under the steering wheel. This will allow you to remove the center console and give you better access to the pedals.



    Go ahead and remove the arm rest. 2 of the screws are located in the compartment. You'll have to pull the cd holder out.





    Remove the glove box and forward console to gain full access to the shifter assembly.



    Remove the bolts holding the shifter assembly to the body. There a 4 bolts and some wires to unplug on the shifter. The wires won't be needed anymore.



    Remove the retainers holding the shift cable eyelet on the shifter. Remove cable from shifter.



    Now you can remove the shifter assembly.



    Now the shifter is out of the way.



    Remove the shifter cable. The access hole is under the car and easy to locate. You'll have to remove a rubber seal from both sides of the access hole.





    Both shifters side by side to illustrate the difference.



    Go ahead and run the manual trans shift cable now. The access hole is located behind the ECU. There is a rubber seal that has to be removed. Have fun with that.



    This is the area the cable will occupy.



    Go ahead and install the manual trans shifter assembly and install the cable onto the shifter. Don't forget the retainers.



    Now for the pedal swap.



    The brake pedal for the 5 speed cars has a shorter foot pad than the auto one does. This is needed to accommodate the clutch pedal. So you'll need to remove the brake pedal arm only from the bracket. Just remove the bolt that holds the arm to the bracket and the guide pin that connects the arm to the master cylinder plunger. Unhook the spring that connects the pedal to the bracket. Then install the 5 speed brake pedal.

    Notice that diamond shaped hole to the upper left of the brake pedal. I have wires running through it in the pic. That is where the clutch pedal assembly bolts to. The clutch master cylinder will be installed on the other side of that hole on the firewall.





    Install the clutch pedal assembly. There are 2 nuts and 1 bolt involved. There is also a spring that connects from the pedal to the bracket. It is a little tricky to do but it's self explanatory. It can be a little difficult to line up and center properly.



    Now go ahead and install the clutch master cylinder. You may have to loosen the brake master cylinder bolts and pull it away from the firewall to give you enough room to work the clutch cylinder in. You have to get the studs through the holes on the clutch pedal bracket. Then install the nuts.



    The clutch pedal start switch is tucked away at the bottom of the dash near the steering column. it will have a single wire with a white plug on it. You'll have to pull it out to install it to the switch in the pedal bracket.





    Now for the fun part. It's time to run the fluid line. So grab it up and hopefully you remember the path it took when you uninstalled it from the the donor car. Go ahead and run it behind the strut bar and under the ignition coil. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose to get the line behind it.









    There is a bracket on the line that installs right here.



    Then install the line onto the master cylinder.



    Get the trans on the jack an ready to go.



    Go ahead and install the flywheel and clutch disk on the motor. I have a 3sgte motor so for this application I had to use the 3sgte flywheel and a 5sfe clutch disc. If you are doing this on a 5sfe motor than just use the flywheel for that motor.



    Then lift and install the transmission. Hook the fluid line up to the slave cylinder.





    Then install all of your plastics.











    If you did this trans swap on a 3sgte then right now your car will start while it is in gear so be mindful of that. Go ahead and plug the reverse light switch up. There is more wiring involved for those that are doing this conversion on the 5sfe w/auto. I did this after swapping in a 3sgte so I didn't have to fool with some of the wiring. I will try to cover the extra things you would have to do. A couple of these things are needed for you swappers too so that the motor wont start unless the clutch pedal is pressed.


    5sfe guys.

    First you will have need to have gotten the plug for the reverse light switch off of the manual transmission harness. That plug will have to be transplanted to the 5sfe harness where the neutral safety switch is. On the n/s switch plug there are two red wires and two black wires. Cut the grey plug off of those wires. Connect the red wires from the n/s switch to the other red wires on the reverse light switch and plug it into the transmission. Hook the two black wires together. Now your car will start but it will also start in gear.

    3sgte and 5sfe guys.

    There is a grey connector labeled EB1 in the service manual. It is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment against the fender and behind the strut tower. There are two connectors in this spot so you want the one that has 3 wires and is closest to the motor. Go ahead and unplug it. You'll notice that there is an empty pin on this plug where the wires come in through the bottom. You'll need to move the black wire into that empty pin. Getting the wire out of the plug is a little tricky. Use a pick to press the lock down and slide it out. then push it into the empty slot above it and plug it back up.



    Right now the car won't start so you'll have to install the start relay into the fuse box on the driver side kick panel. The relay should have been gotten from you donor car so you will know where to install it. here is a before and after picture of the fuse panel with the relay installed.





    If you haven't already done it then hook the clutch start switch plug up to the clutch pedal switch.



    Your car should start now and only if the clutch is pressed.
    Last edited by Hookecho; 03-23-2011 at 06:34 PM.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  2. #2

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    nice..was this the 3sgte that was automatic?
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  3. #3

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    wooohooooooo! Dragon bound, baby!

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    I was deaf, sore and majorly pissed off

  4. #4

    Default

    Great job! That write up will be a good addition to the knowledge base. You'll really enjoy it a lot more with the manual.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  5. #5

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    Sweet job and write up man, you made it bend to your will! i love it, awesome job

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    1990 Celica GT 5SFE

  6. #6
    The Notorious P.I.G.
    Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho has too many green lights. Hookecho's Avatar
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    Default

    This thing feels like a sports car now.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  7. #7
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco celica91gts is a glorious beacon of light celica91gts is a glorious beacon of light celica91gts is a glorious beacon of light celica91gts is a glorious beacon of light celica91gts is a glorious beacon of light
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    Default

    great job man. that's one clean looking tranny btw.

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  8. #8

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    Where did you get your shifter boot from? I am doing the exact same swap. Except I am doing the motor swap and trans swap at the same time. It provides for much less of a headache and contortion. Great job on your swap btw. Looks very clean. Kudos!

  9. #9
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    Default

    The boot came out of the parts car. I don't remember where my buddy got it.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  10. #10
    Unsocially Acceptable acidice333 is on a distinguished road
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    Default

    Did you make a giant gapping hole for the master cylinder?

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  11. #11
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    No. I originaly had my wire harness run through the hole provided for the master cylinder. At the time I had wanted to enlarge the hole for the harness to pass through. The firewall is double walled. You're seeing where I cut through the first layer of metal. The second layer was left alone.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  12. #12

    Default

    Nevermind for most of my original questions...found most of my answers elsewhere.

    Do you need to do anything to prep the crankshaft to go from flexplate -> Clutch? I am used to pulling a flexplate adapter and inserting a pilot bushing, Is the Celica similar? Sorry if this information has been covered in another thread...I looked around but did not see one.
    Last edited by maxxhavoc; 02-28-2011 at 02:23 AM. Reason: Search Impaired.

  13. #13

    Default

    please do a write up because i have a 91 GT i want to do a swap on and this would help a lot.
    TOXIC VVTi

  14. #14
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco Doowstados will become famous soon enough Doowstados will become famous soon enough

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    I am going to be starting my auto -> manual conversion in the next month or two. Couple of questions:

    Where do you recommend I get my tranny? Is it safe to just grab one at a junkyard? I don't know how to inspect a transmission for problems unfortunately.

    How difficult is it to just drop the auto out the bottom and raise the manual?

    I know I need to remove the axles and exhaust pipe, what else is in the way?

    Whats the best way to lift it up there? What special tools will I need to finish this job?
    - Dustin J.

    1991 Toyota Celica GT

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  15. #15
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    I got my trans from Pull-a-Part. All you can do to inspect it is make sure the gears engage and rotate the differential. The only real way to know if it works is to mount it and drive. If it doesn't work just take it back.

    The auto trans is heavy and using a trans jack will help. You can get by with a regular floor jack.

    You don't have to remove the exhaust pipe. You'll have to remove the cross members and support the motor. Just follow the instructions in your repair manual and you'll do fine.

    You can do the job with a ratchet set, wrenches, pliers, pry bar, screwdrivers, and torque wrench. The flexplate/flywheel bolts come off easier with an impact wrench. Otherwise you'll need a way to stop the crank from rotating while you wrench the bolts. They make a flywheel wrench that you can borrow or buy from a parts store.

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  16. #16
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco Doowstados will become famous soon enough Doowstados will become famous soon enough

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hookecho View Post
    I got my trans from Pull-a-Part. All you can do to inspect it is make sure the gears engage and rotate the differential. The only real way to know if it works is to mount it and drive. If it doesn't work just take it back.

    The auto trans is heavy and using a trans jack will help. You can get by with a regular floor jack.

    You don't have to remove the exhaust pipe. You'll have to remove the cross members and support the motor. Just follow the instructions in your repair manual and you'll do fine.

    You can do the job with a ratchet set, wrenches, pliers, pry bar, screwdrivers, and torque wrench. The flexplate/flywheel bolts come off easier with an impact wrench. Otherwise you'll need a way to stop the crank from rotating while you wrench the bolts. They make a flywheel wrench that you can borrow or buy from a parts store.
    Thanks for the information, very helpful.

    I'm going to be buying a new clutch to go with the tranny, any recommendations? Preferably a clutch that will be suitable for both a 5FSE and a 3SGTE as I'm going to be starting my swap sometime this year as well. (Doesn't need to be a performance clutch as long as it can hold up as a DD with maybe one or two track visits a year.)
    - Dustin J.

    1991 Toyota Celica GT

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  17. #17
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    Ok guys.

    I finally sat down and completed this thread as a tech write up for the auto to manual swap. So now it is more than only pictures. It is 3sgte swap and 5sfe friendly.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  18. #18

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    Sweet write up!!!

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    She won't be going anywhere for a good while.
    But i still love her...

    In the words of Archimedes, "Give me a long enough lever, and a place to rest it, or I will kill a hostage every hour."

  19. #19
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco Doowstados will become famous soon enough Doowstados will become famous soon enough

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    Any recommendations on a Flywheel/Clutch kit for my DD? (5SFE, lightly modded)

    I don't want something too heavy and to be completely honest, when I do my tranny swap It'll be my first manual car. I've driven a stick a few times but could definitely use more practice.

    I would use the OEM one but I have a feeling they're going to be a bit on the expensive side. I was looking at an Exedy Stage 1 with this cheapo pressure plate: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...e&apwid5Ovd7r8
    - Dustin J.

    1991 Toyota Celica GT

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  20. #20
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    Just pick one up from the parts store. I have installed several Duralast clutch sets into my vehicles over the years. Never had a problem. Autozone has them for around $130. You can pick the OEM one up from Lithia toyota for around $220 if I recall. You may want to ask them.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  21. #21

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    Anyone know how to do the starter relay and clutch interlock wiring on a GT-S? Mine doesn't have the pigtail connector for the clutch pedal switch and the starter relay position on the relay block has no wires going to it. I've been trying to decipher the wiring diagrams but could use some help to verify I'm reading them correctly.

  22. #22
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    The wire for the clutch safety switch is taped up under the dash. I have a picture of it's location above. Should be able to just plug the relay in. My GTS was wired for it. Do you not see any terminal ends in the relay socket?

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  23. #23

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    My 1990 GT-S does not have that wire taped under the dash and the socket for the starter relay has no terminal ends in it, just the open holes for them.

  24. #24
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    very odd. Well, they aren't necessary to use. The engine will start without pressing the clutch is all.

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  25. #25

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    I know it's not necessary, but I want to have it working for safety purposes.

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