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  1. #1

    Default How to remove engine from car (Smaay way)

    Ok let’s start with taking off the engine plastics and the hood. In this case we also have to remove the strut bar








    Remove the battery


    Take the wheels off and drain the engine and transmission oil




    Next is take off the axle nut, this is an aftermarket nut, the OEM nut is a 30MM 12pt. make sure you take the detent out of the nut or you will tear up the threads.


    Remove the (2) 19MM nuts holding the hub to the strut




    Remove the ABS sensor if you have one, it’s a 10MM bolt




    Check the cable, notice this one has been rubbed against by something


    Pull the axle out of the hub, if its stuck, whack the axle with a dead blow hammer, it will pop out. Hold the axle as straight as possible and pull it towards you in a back and forth action. It will pop out.
    *note: this is for the GT-S axles, the GT axles do not have an internal snap ring holding the CV together and it will come apart. It will need to be tried out of the transmission


    Repeat for the passenger side, when you get ready to pull the axle out, you need to get under the car and remove the (2) 14MM bolts holding the axle to the support bearing




    Pic of the passenger side axle removed


    Next we will drain the coolant. Look down the passenger side of the radiator, you want to loosen this clamp and pull off the hose. Put a bucket underneath because coolant is going to come pouring out. This is a worm clamp, not the factory clamp






    Notice the green coolant…VERY BAD! Toyota Red coolant should only be used!


    I do not recommend this procedure for amateurs, but essentially I give the cooling system a “blowjob” blowing into the reservoir helps push out the coolant hopefully into your bucket, not all over the floor.


    Next we remove the serpentine belt. This is the nut shaped part that you want to put leverage on.


    This is the wrench on the belt tensioner


    Doubling up on wrenches allows for more torque




    Unfortunately this belt tensioner has been totally stripped so I had to cut the belt off, It was due for a changing anyway

    With the coolant hopefully drained, we can remove the radiator. Start by removing the radiator support beam.






    Remove the coolant reservoir.




    Remove the intake, here a short ram is installed. Unplug any VSVs and the MAF sensor, loosen the clamp around the throttle body, and remove the hoses to the VSV and intake manifold.






    Remove the hood latch, its held on by (3) 10MM bolts


    The last bolt is way down low, it’s a 10MM bolt






    Remove the drivers side radiator hose, here you can see what the OEM clamps look like


    Unplug the (2) radiator fan plugs


    Carefully pull radiator out of the engine bay




    Next we will remove the ECU and the ECU box. Remove the (2) 10MM bolts on the cover.


    Unplug the ECU connections and carefully lift out the ECU. The blue plug has a single 10MM bolt holding the ECU in, you have to remove that and pup the tab on the right side.




    Push down on the rubber grommet and pull the ECU wires out of the box.






    Remove the (3) 10MM bolts holding the box in place


    Remove the battery tray, there are (2) 12MM nuts and (1) 12MM bolt holding it down.






    Remove the EVAP line if you haven’t already done so.


    Remove the breather line on the throttle body and unplug the DBW control.
    *Note: this is on an 03+ GT-S, earlier models do not have DBW and will not have the electrical plug and the breather line will be on top of the throttle body


    Remove the remaining breather lines from the intake manifold and valve cover.


    Remove the (4) coils, they are secured by 10MM bolts.




    Unplug the injectors, there are (4) of them.


    Unplug the VVT OCV


    Unplug the CAM position sensor


    Unplug the Lift OCV and oil pressure sensor. Unbolt the ECU grounds that are bolted the Lift actuator


    Unplug the water temp sensor


    Remove the fuel rail, its secured by (2) 12MM bolts and a 10MM bolt on the head.




    Unplug the fuel rail feed line, you have to pinch this connector and pull it off the hard line that runs back to the tank.


    Off comes the rail




    Remove the 10MM nut on the alternator, unplug the connection just below, and unplug the AC compressor.


    There are also 2 connections between the alternator and intake manifold, they are for the crank position sensor and knock sensor. Unplug those too. Then lift and remove the wire harness out of the way. On the 03+ feed the harness through the runners.




    Remove the bracket holding the alternator to the intake manifold




    Remove the fasteners from the top of the intake manifold and large bolt underneath.








    Remove the 12MM bolt holding the oil dipstick tube to the intake manifold


    Carefully lift off the intake manifold


    This is what you should see, look at all that orange silicone, which should not be there, it can cause more problems then help.


    Unplug the knock sensor and engine oil pressure sensor


    Get underneath the car and remove the starter connections. There is a single 12MM bolt and the plug next to it.


    Remove the moon clips that hold the shifter cables in place.


    Remove the shift cables from the linkage. There should be a cotter pin here not a micky mouse wire bent to hold it in place.


    Reach back behind the tranny and unplug the reverse sensor and speed sensor.


    Remove the harness clips from the engine, move the harness out of the way.




    Remove any remaining coolant hoses




    Looking through the driver’s side wheel well, remove the rear motor mount bolt. It’s a 17MM head


    Remove the (2) bolts on top of the passenger motor mount.


    Remove the (3) bolts holding the passenger motor mount to the body of the car. This poor bolt is stripped out 


    Next we will remove the AC compressor, there are (3) total 12MM bolts. 2 on the bottom and 1 right behind the hard line. The 2 on the bottom are easy, the one behind the hard line requires a wrench, ratchet wrenches work best here.




    Put a rag under the headlight and rest the compressor out of the way


    Next step is the clutch slave cylinder. There are (2) 12MM bolts holding it on the tranny and (2) 14MM bolts holding it lower on the tranny. There might also be some clips holding it by 10MM bolts.




    Unbolt the front motor mount and remove it. the long bolt is 14MM and there are (2) 14MM bolts holding it underneath the center beam.


    Unbolt the header from the downpipe. It will help to spray some PB Blaster or WD40 on the bolts and threads to loosen things up.




    Unbolt the Power Steering pump from the block, its held on by (2) 14MM bolts. There are (2) nuts that can be reached through the pulley.






    Once bolts are removed, use a pry bar under the pump and move the pump away from the block.


    Using engine removal tools, mount on engine and hook up engine lift.










    Remove remaining bolts on the passenger motor mount, there are (2) 14MM nuts on the bottom that you have to get from under the car. Then remove passenger motor mount.














    Remove the drivers side motor mount.






    Remove the front bracket for the front motor mount


    Carefully lift engine out of car.











    DONE!
    2001 Celica GT-S Turbo 2ZZ-GTE
    1997 Supra TT 6 speed 2JZ-GTE
    1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ V6 hybrid
    1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE

  2. #2
    Sorry... I got distracted... MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica has a brilliant future MCcelica's Avatar
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    Default

    Awesomely well documented. I will be consulting this in the future.

    I do have a couple of questions that are entirely unrelated. First is do you like those headlights? If yes, what kind are they? Mine need replaced ASAP.
    Poena Hodie Vires Cras y Semper Fidelis Maximus

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  3. #3

    Default

    This isnt my car, but you can look on Ebay, there are tons or headlights on there.
    2001 Celica GT-S Turbo 2ZZ-GTE
    1997 Supra TT 6 speed 2JZ-GTE
    1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ V6 hybrid
    1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE

  4. #4

    Default

    Very nice write-up. How long did it take? How about if you'd never done it before? My daughter just blew the engine in hers, and I'm looking at the same project. I'm a mechanic, but on airplanes. I pull engines out of airplanes everyday, but your pictoral makes this project look much more involved. Trying to decide if I have time for this, or need to find someone to do it.
    Thanks, Pete

  5. #5
    Rev Over 9000...Safely Now donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs's Avatar
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    for someone thats never done an engine pull id give it 4-6 hours. i did it last time in 2 1/2 but that was second time

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    Shadow's Minion Army - member #3

  6. #6

    Default

    Anyone know if this can be done without pulling the trans and axles with it? It would be helpful to me to be able to keep the car on it's wheels?

  7. #7
    Rev Over 9000...Safely Now donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs's Avatar
    donteatbugs has been to an annual Dragon Meet! donteatbugs has donated to the forums! donteatbugs helped get Grayscale's Celica towed from The Dragon in 2008. donteatbugs helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. donteatbugs helped bring Chaos back to the Dragon

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    nope, it would be almost impossible to do it that way. you can always put the axles back in afterwards and put the car back on its wheels.

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    Shadow's Minion Army - member #3

  8. #8

    Default

    I leave the car on the whels, once i take the axles out ill put the bolts back in the hub and you can put the wheels back on and push the car around if you ahve to. thats very simple.
    2001 Celica GT-S Turbo 2ZZ-GTE
    1997 Supra TT 6 speed 2JZ-GTE
    1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ V6 hybrid
    1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE

  9. #9

    Default

    You take out a lot of stuff you dont need to.

    You dont need to pull the radiator, or the intake manifold off. Or at least I had no issues doing it that way when I changed my engine. I thought it was slick the whole thing cleared without touching the radiator.
    2000 Absolute Red Celica GTS 6-Spd
    1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo


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  10. #10

    Default

    I pull the manifold to make it easier to get the knock sensor, crank sensor, starter, and oil pressure sensors off. the IM come off so easily its just a simple step for me. The starter part of the harness is pretty tight under there so this makes it easier
    2001 Celica GT-S Turbo 2ZZ-GTE
    1997 Supra TT 6 speed 2JZ-GTE
    1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ V6 hybrid
    1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE

  11. #11

    Default

    Still curious why you even remove any of that stuff. When I pulled my engine, the whole engine/harness came out as one piece. All of it came out. I didnt do anything special to get any of it to work.

    I know you know your shit, and I am just curious why you feel its easier to remove in the car, as opposed to removing outside of the car if it needs to be pulled.

    All Im saying is when I did mine, it would have taken less time overall all things being equal, cause I didnt have to remove the manifold, or any of that other stuff, and I didnt have to remove the radiator, and that was nice too.
    2000 Absolute Red Celica GTS 6-Spd
    1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo


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  12. #12

    Default

    you say tomato i say tomato. just my way of doing things.
    2001 Celica GT-S Turbo 2ZZ-GTE
    1997 Supra TT 6 speed 2JZ-GTE
    1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ V6 hybrid
    1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE

  13. #13

    Default

    yeah i was wonderin why you didnt just pull the motor with the harness still attached, saved me hours. but hey everyone does have their own way

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    OREGON TOYOTA OWNERS CLUB LEADING MEMBER

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