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  1. #1

    Default 1995 Celica GT Passenger Window Not Working

    My passenger side window is not functional.

    The driver side master switch that controls the passenger side window and the passenger side switch don't work. I even checked to see if the lockout switch was preventing it from functioning but the lockout switch didn't prevent the driver side window from functioning. Does the lockout switch only affect the passenger side window or is that switch bad?

    I have tested the Regulator/Motor by taking power directly from the battery and connecting jumper wires to the Red & Green wires going to the Regulator/Motor. The window will go down, and then up after reversing the wires to the battery. so I know the regulator/motor is functional.

    Does power come from the fuse panel and go to the master switch and then travel from the master switch to the passenger side switch, or does the power come from separate sources?

    Is there a separate fuse and/or relay for each side?

    At this point with my very limited Electrical knowledge, I can only guess that either there is no power getting to the master switch and passenger side switch or that both switches are bad.

    Any and all help/input is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Default

    No reason for two identical posts, someone'll come along and offer advice.


    The lockout switch does only affect the passenger window. Without looking at the electrical schematic I wouldn't know how it gets power. I can't get to look at it until late tonight.
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  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you.

  4. #4

    Default

    I recently resurrected a dead window by taking the window control switch apart and cleaning the contacts with sterile alcohol and a scotch 3M pad.

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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Car_Barn_Bandit View Post
    I recently resurrected a dead window by taking the window control switch apart and cleaning the contacts with sterile alcohol and a scotch 3M pad.
    This.

    The switch contacts in my vert were black. Cleaned them up and the window worked fine.

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    I was deaf, sore and majorly pissed off

  6. #6

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    That moment when you realize the person asking for help is someone you know...

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  7. #7

    Default

    After removing the master switch from the driver side door and taking it apart, this is what I found.



    The passenger side switch looked flawless so I can only hope the power runs through the master switch on the driver's side door and then over to the passenger side switch. And that this damage is why I'm unable to operate the passenger window from either side.
    Last edited by BMATT; 04-09-2014 at 02:58 AM.

  8. #8

    Default

    If you clean the switch as mentioned above and try again, it should work. The main issue here is that the switch itself takes the full brunt of the electrical contact. There is no relay. As in, the switch IS the relay. Try giving it a cleaning with a scotch pad and some electronics cleaner, then wipe it with a microfiber cloth and see how it does.
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  9. #9

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    I don't think cleaning will help in this situation.

    I was wondering if soldering the broken pathway together would work until I get a new switch. Otherwise, off to the junkyard I go.

  10. #10

    Default

    Ah, the picture didn't show up for me when I posted so I was unaware. Apologies.
    Looks like the trace is broken full on. You *could* potentially solder it, but if you do, you will need to be very careful with the iron so as not to damage the conformal coating on the board any more and also that you won't lift the traces any further.
    Personally, I wouldn't risk it myself since there seems to be other damage on the board as well. I would definitely get a replacement from a wrecking yard and just do it properly and not have to worry about a potential firehazard or it taking any additional systems with it when/if it decides to let go.
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    "We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a Habit."

  11. #11

    Default

    Thanks.

    So am I correct in assuming that the power comes from this switch and powers the passenger side switch/regulator/motor?

    If that is the case replacing this bad switch will fix my problem.

    Now to hope that there isn't a short somewhere waiting to burn the replacement switch, guess I'll find out then.

  12. #12

    Default

    So I soldered the burnt trace and I now have a fully functional passenger window.

    I figured, if I need to get another switch why not TRY and fix the bad one.

    Thanks for all the input, it's greatly appreciated.

  13. #13

    Default

    You should still definitely get a replacement. WHile soldering can work out in the short term, the top FR4 layer is gone and that trace is fully exposed. Also keep in mind thatthe copper trace you soldered is only rated to handle a certain amount of current, which was clearly exceeded.
    Anyhow, nice job on getting it working and pick up a new one soon.
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  14. #14

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    I will definitely do that.

    I thought it'd be a good way to see if that was my only issue. I figured that if it was a short somewhere that caused this in the first place that it'd be a good idea to make sure that there still isn't an issue. I didn't want to fry a replacement switch.

  15. #15

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    In the 90-93 schematics, all power and control goes through the driver's side switch, I doubt they changed it any for the 94-99 models. That said... hopefully it's just the switch that actually went bad and not the passenger motor drawing extra current or anything crazy like that.

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    Originally Posted by The Captain

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    Chaos pulls on Marshall's GT.
    But he has a free hand to grope boobies while he drives....

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