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  1. #1
    AllOutRed90
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    Default Auto Body Components Info Thread - Updated 11-7!

    I figured that I would give everyone else some knowledge, I have seen alot of people asking How's and What's. I figure with this thread in place, then we can eliminate a few of those type of threads. So below I have compile information about Filers, Glasses, and other auto body components. This thread could be very helpfull if one of the moderators could sticky this.

    You will probably want to start out with resin, because you will need to repair the body before placing bondo on it. Resins are pretty easy once mastered, but fillers are even easier. Read some of the stuff below, and you may just find out some easy tricks, and good info.

    First lets start out with the definition of Fiberglass, just to get and idea of what it is. Courtesy of Wikipedia On-line Encyclopedia. Then we will get some terminolgies.

    Fiberglass:

    Fiberglass or fibreglass is material made from extremely fine fibers of glass. It is widely used in the manufacture of insulation and textiles. It is also used as a reinforcing agent for many plastic products; the resulting composite material, properly known as glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) or glass-fiber reinforced epoxy (GRE), is called "fiberglass" in popular usage.
    Terminologies:

    MEKP (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide - resin hardener)

    Rage Gold (Evercoat Brand Premium body filler - IE: Similar to Bondo)

    Thixotrophic Powder/Resin Expander (fumed silica based thickening agent used for thickening fiberglass resin - Combination of Aerosil/Cabosil)

    Duramix (2 part fast drying liquid plastic used for welding plastic together or filling in gaps, holes, and scratches. Best Known for Dash Fabrication and commonly refered to as 40/40 or 40/58 )

    CA Glue (Cyanoarcylate - Or Super thick Super Glue with an fast dry accelerator spray. Used as a third hand or temporary weld)

    Foundation Mold (Term used to discibe the foundation of a specific fiberglass project where a mold of the floor or "base" was created. Foundations can be made of MDF or Fiberglass)

    Olfa Knife (Small retractable detail knife/razor blade with replaceable blades used for cutting plastic, carpet, vinyl, shaping semi dry body filler, duramix, etc. commonly refered to as "Olfa")

    D/A Sander ("Dual Action" Sander of course. Uses random orbital sanding patterns instead of circular motions which helps reduce sanding marks left by the grit of the pad. Commonly refered to as "D/A")

    Circle Jig (Router guide attachment used to cut perfect circles from 3" - 32" in diameter. Always refered to as "Circle Jig")

    Feather Fill/Slick Sand (A polyester high build primer/filler. Fills pin holes and can be painted on directly)

    Feather Edging (A technique similar to that of automotive body work. Used to get a "drop-in" enclosure a razor sharp edge against the trunk or foundation it resides on)

    Mass Casting (A technique used to mass produce a part or project using a single or 2 part mold. In some cases a multi-part mold (3 or more pcs) can be produced for large project duplication)

    Resin:

    This stuff is very potent, and according to the state of california it can cause cancer over large amounts of exposure. You dont have to worry about it if using once, but for many years and you may get cancer. Thats why you should always use a mask. Im going to college with this stuff, thats why I take these precautions.

    There isnt any difference in quality between companies, but there are different types of resins. There is Regular resin, which is meant for flate surfaces with the use of Chop or weave mat. Ill explain what Mat is later. Then, there is laminating Resin, which can be used in a couple various ways. The main being that it is more tacky, and you can apply it vertical or even above you, its not supposed to drip as easy, or even at all. Its much easier to work with. But, when using laminating is doesnt come out as smooth, so there is more sanding involve.

    Like before I mentioned Chop and weave mat. It is the white mat used to make what you see as the hard fiberglass substance you see in body kits and other fiberglass goods. You can find weave mat which is like white Carbon fiber, its weaved which is mainly used for flat surfaces. When using in more rigid areas you should always use chop mat, you can cut and mould it easier. When applying this stuff, you will want to remove it from the package and cut it to the size of area you will be applying too. Then what you will do is pat some Resin into the mat, it forms a strong bond. Ill explain resins now.

    When mixing resin with liquid hardener you will again want to be careful. Use a whipped cream pale or butter bowl. Something that you wont worry about ruining. If you mix too much hardener with the resin, it will again harden rather fast, and it will remain a hard substance that is not usable. Then you will have to scrap and start over. If not enough hardener is mixed in, then it will take hours for it to harden, and you will get very disturbed of waiting. So make sure you use a small amount and mix it in a bowl to get perfect mixture. once you have figured that you, you will want to cut the mat, and pour and mix only enough that you will think you need. Its better to have too little then too much, because then you will waste it. When resin is mixed into the mat against a surface, it will turn brownish and gooey looking, that means you have done it correctly. Then within minutes it will be a hard surface. I tmay be hard or smooth. Sanding isnt neccesary after applying, but if there are large bumps then it may please you to do so.

    When using resins, you can usually drill into them if needed. I.E. installing license plate, lights, ETC. You can also drill holes to promote strength. Meaning you can Drill a hole in the area and press The mat and resin into the groove, then it will have something to hold into. Thats one way to make a strong bond. I will provide some links below to find all the stuff you need.

    After making the hard area with the resin once, you will want to apply a couple more layers with the same technique. Then when you feel you have enough, then you will want to apply a small layer of resin until its smooth, just like covered above.

    Working W/ Body Fillers:

    There are many different types of filler. The most commonly reffered to filler would be Bondo, Bondo is actually a company that makes auto body goods. The quality of the Base filler made by them is lower quality than others are selling on the market, its thicker and harder to make smooth. A filler that I would suggest would Rage Extreme or even Rage Gold. They have got to be the smoothest and easiest fillers to work with on the market today. They are so active that when you mix in the cream hardener it will harden faster than any other filler on the market. So when using Rage fillers, you should always make an example batch first, just to see how active it is. 2 very small dabs for one small size of filler should be adequate for a perfect compostion of Filler and cream hardener. When using lower grade fillers such as the bondo products or Dura-Lite fillers, you must use more Cream hardener. Also when purchasing fillers, just for you info, There are Blue and Red Cream Hardeners, there isnt much difference. Also, depending on which filler you were to buy it comes in different colors. Dura-lite if gold, Base Bondo is a red-peach color, ETC.....

    Rage® Xtreme™ (from their website)

    Rage® Xtreme™ is the world's first truly pinhole-free premium body filler. This technically-advanced, unique formula is self-leveling for easy spreading, reducing sanding time to remove heavy texture. Easily sands with 80 grit sandpaper, eliminating the need for coarse grits that can cause sand scratch swelling. Contains Evercoat® ZNX-7™ patented technology which quickly provides superior adhesion to galvanized steel and aluminum much sooner in the repair.

    ZNX-7™ insures faster and easier sanding without risk of pulling back the featheredge and having to re-apply filler. Formulated to resist penetration of new and more aggressive HAP*-compliant solvents and waterborne coatings, Xtreme™ improves the quality of the finish, reducing the chance for repair mapping, comebacks and redoes. This makes Xtreme™ perfect for next generation basecoat/clearcoat systems. (*Hazardous Air Pollutants)
    Applying Filler:

    When applying filler there are a few precautions to take. Be sure to wear a mask, some of these fillers are very potent. But, if you are working outside, a nice breeze should help you out a bit. Gloves could help some of you first timers out too. After awhile you will probably get used to having sticky hands.

    I would suggest to find a large square of something hard. Some things that will work would be a small plywood square, a cardboard square, or a painters tray. I found out awhile ago that they actually make a few items for this sole perpous. There are filler pallets, and filler boards with mixing sheets. These items work very well but can come at a not-so-nice price. But, what you have to remember, if you want to do it right, then you need to buy the right stuff. I actually use cardboard sheets myself.

    Next, when applying you will need the proper filler spreaders. They sell many different sizes, you can pick them up at your local auto store. Even Wal-mart sells then. Its an easy concept, when applying coats in a large area, use a large spreader, and when applying in small areas use smaller spreaders. These spreaders are cheap no matter what, but if you please yourself and think you will be doing alot of work, you can buy in bulk at a auto body shop, or even on ebay. These fillers are re-usable because they flex, and once the filler is hardened, then you bend them the filler falls right off, its that easy. After you have gotten what supplies you need then you will want to find a panel. Mix a small batch of filler, just to get the hang of things. You mix the red or blue hardener in small dabs to the filler. You will have to wait a maximum of 20 minutes if mixed correctly. Take the proper precautions when using premium fillers, as these harden faster, as previously stated. You will want to put a small amount of you mixed filler onto the spreader, and spread gently over your surface. Dont spread too hard or it will make grooves and cuts.

    When using fillers, make sure you know how to use them. You do not want to make giant large amounts of filler as a mould. The filler will crack over time. Also, when applying fillers make sure the surface you are applying too is clean and sanded well. Filler doesnt apply to paint very well, because if hit it will crack and fall off very easily. Thick filler is not a good filler. If you apply too slowly you will get a clumpy filler, and it will get very hard to work with. All you can do at that point is scrap it and start over.

    Paint preparation and filler sanding:

    Then, once you are done you will want to move onto sanding to make it extra smooth. You can use a Sanding block, Electric sanders, or air sanders. My personal favorite being an air sanding. I have heard that there are such things as an air file also, its supposed to be a air tool with a longer sanding head, able to clean up a larger area quicker. So when using sanders make sure you pick the right grit of paper, when sanding fillers you will want to make sure you have a not-so-gritty paper. When using sanders you will want to apply some pressure to make sure you are getting into the filler a bit, make sure it is even pressure, so you dont create grooves or slots. After you sand if a medium grit paper, switch to a very smooth paper. Reason being is so that it is very smooth. You dont want to paint it with scratches. But even if you choose not to sand alot, you can always use high-build primer which is meant to fill in small scratches. Also, after priming, you will want to use some very very very fine sand paper and sand a bit by hand just to be sure that its very fine and smooth. Quality.

    High-Build primers

    As anyone has experienced who are doing these things to their cars. They will notice that even when you sand with the smoothest grit sandpaper, that you will still be the victim of small grooves or scratches. For this specific purpose there are primers that are call high-build. They are primers that will fill in these tiny marks. It helps alot for those that are not ready to spend hours trying to get out those tiny marks. These primers save alot of time, they are perfect for body work.

    You apply high-build in 2 different ways. They sell it in cans, and it can be sprayed on with a air compressor paint sprayer. If you choose to go the cheaper way, you can buy the cans (3-5$/ per can) They are aerosol so they just simply spray on. But if you are going to spray alot, i would suggest to get a can-top sprayer. They just clip on top, and can be found at wal-mart for 5$. They save your finger alot of pain. After spraying it on, you will notice that it isnt perfectly smooth, it wont be ready for just paint after that. You will have to get some really fine grit sandpaper, or even bet color sand it. Color-sander is just really fine wet-sand paper. Its more expensive, but it comes out alot nicer.

    Color-sanding

    To begin, put a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in a clean bucket and fill it with clean water. Next, tear three or four pieces of the 1,000-grit microfine sandpaper in half and place them in the bucket also. Leave them in the bucket of water for about 20 minutes to soften their edges.

    - Keep the surface wet at all times and sand in short strokes with your hand held flat.
    - Color-sanding levels the paint and removes orange peel.
    - After going over the finish again with 1,500-grit paper, switch to 2,000-grit and sand another time.


    While you're waiting for the paper to soften, wash your truck completely to remove any grit or dust, then gently dry it with clean terry cloth towels. Next, take a tack rag and wipe over the truck's surfaces one final time to make sure the paint is absolutely clean. A small particle of grit can make deep scratches in even the hardest finish. If you're working outdoors, wet down the surrounding area to keep dust under control, and keep a garden hose running with a trickle of water on the surface at all times.

    Wrap a piece of the softened 1,000-grit sandpaper around a thin, rubber sanding block if you're going to be working broad, flat surfaces. Otherwise, you can just fold the sandpaper in thirds. Keep wetting the surface of the vehicle in the area where you're sanding and keep it wet while you work. Place your hand flat on the paper at all times and start sanding in short, criss-cross strokes. Avoid applying excessive pressure and never sand with just your fingertips -- you'll create grooves if you do.

    When done make sure its clean, and use some carnauba wax.

    A few techniques for dent repair

    -Technique #1

    The time involved with vehicle dent repair is dependent on the extent of damage to the vehicle. During a general dent repair a slide hammer is used to pull out dents. To use the slide hammer, a small hole is cut into the repair area, the hammer is inserted and the worker holds the sliding grip and pulls back forcefully. Once the dent is pulled out, a grinder is used to smooth the area. A worker will experience vibration effects from the grinder and may be in an awkward position to use the grinder.

    Once the rough areas are smooth, bondo is applied with a spreader. The bondo is allowed to dry and the area is then sanded with a DA sander and/or by hand. The bondo and sanding tasks are repeated until the repair area is built up and smooth. The main risks during these tasks are from vibration and forceful hand exertions.

    The final step of general dent repair is to water sand and prime the area for painting. The amount of time spent performing all of these tasks varies according to the size and location of the dent. A repair of a 30 x 9 inch dent near a truck bumper can last more then 70 minutes.

    Technique #2

    For those looking to go the cheaper way, you can go to Wal-mart and purchase a dent pulling device. Unsure of the name, but from reading excerpts and forums, i decided not to go this way. They can be helpfull for those big dents. But, for some dents, it can make it worse, also the tool might be too large to get to those little ones. If you were to pull too hard sometimes it will make an outward dent.

    I wouldnt personally suggest one of these tools, but i thought that I would mention it, mainly because this is an informative post. If you want to read up more about them or try one, and it works for you, then get back to me, and ill add that in this section. As i am only going by what some people have told me, or i have read.

    You can go to most body shops, and they can perform a paintless dent repair also. Its expensive technique to master at home, but a shop will charge alot also. It might be cheaper in the end for you, because you will not have to repaint anywhere.

    Technique #3

    The third technique is probably the easiest for us. But, only if you choose to repaint. In order to do this, you must sand the dent clean of paint, leave about an inch around the paint of sanded bare material. Once that has been acheived, then mix up your filler. Take a filler spreader and spread finally across the dent. This works best with small dents. If done on large deep dents, it could chip off over time, but not if done correctly.

    When applying on bare metal, you may want to invest in Metal body fillers. They are specifically made to fill on metal. These will bond much better.

    Anyways, after you have spreaded it across the dent, and filled it in good, you will have to fine sand it. Apply more if need and fine sand again. Apply some high-build primer, and color sand.

    Those are the only 3 techniques I could think of, with using a combination of all, you should be able to fix almost any dent.

    After you have mastered some of these techniques then you can go out and do alot of body work on your car. After this you could expand your auto body knowledge and read up about other things you can use. Ill provide some links below to some knowledge filled websites. some things you will be able to do with just this basic knowledge provide above and you should be able to mould on a body kit, fix a broken bodykit, and even fix a dent.

    If anyone has any questions about techniques or anything then anyone can feel free to email me, pm me, or instant message me. You could also just post below.

    Info filled links:

    Evercoat - Info on resins, fillers, and many tools!
    Por-15: Need to fix rust?
    Cheap Bondo products - great for starters!
    Applying techniques for metal body fillers!
    Large document of filler and resin use!
    3m - They sell most of the tools and products needed!
    Eastwood - They sell alot of stuff, Great website!
    Glassmans Forums - Great forum for custom fiberglass work!
    Chris's Tutorials - Great for audio fiberglass work! Tutorials help alot!
    A great forum, deals with Audio fiberglass stuff mostly. But can be a helpful place for questions and interior fiberglassing

    Thats it for now, if i think of anything else to add. Then i shall do it later, Any questions and you shall receive answers.

    Email: Shallow_mind06@hotmail.com
    MSN: Shallow_mind06@hotmail.com
    AIM: White91 Fury
    Or pm and post.....
    Last edited by AllOutRed90; 11-08-2005 at 12:50 AM.

  2. #2
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco BlueDragon will become famous soon enough BlueDragon's Avatar

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    W3rd Thanks Im glad someone did this finaly. I dont know how many celicas ive seen with minor dents and dings, in fact almost every 90-93 celica i see is wrecked up in some way. Mine is the only one around that isnt abused, and nobody even knows its a celi... lol Thanks for all the info and the links, dont be scared to get out there and learn, experience, expand yourself. You can do this! I wanna see more moulded kits, I wanna see more custom kits, speaker boxes, this fiberglass is a great medium that is under-estimated IMHO.

    Body on, keep the resin flowin.

  3. #3
    AllOutRed90
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    Hey thanks man. I do have to agree, doing this stuff is quite easy, and in the matter of a couple hours you could feel like a pro. Its not very hard, and with tutorials and links you can get all that you need and get the job done. I want to see more people doing custom kits and moulds, like myself. I started off by reading Chris's tutorials up top, Yeah, i was reading about making speaker boxes, but the main point of it was to read how to mix resin and fillers. I bought some cans and mustered up courage to start my big project. Some of you may know this already, but for those that dont, I have done alot of work on my car, with no help from anyone. I have a 7th gen rx7 style front that is custom fitted and moulded on, I have invader side skirts that i moulded on my GTS, and I bought an invader rear that i cut and chopped to peices in which i moulded to my stock rear bumper. While doing all of this i learned alot, and i even got to keep my stock safety bumper supports. Now that i feel i have mastered the art of body work, i am moving on to paints, but due to the winter and me having no garage then i cannot learn to paint yet. Since i felt that i loved working on my car, i had decided to apply to a Auto body college, and i got accepted, so it looks like i might be doing this as a career someday. It all starts somewhere....

    Bluedragon, im glad to see someone doing some custom work around here.... maybe we can start a revolution...

  4. #4

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    stuck. Alot of information there AllOUtRed90.

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    2004 Acura RSX
    2009 Toyota Rav4 Sport

  5. #5
    AllOutRed90
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    Thanks, i compile it over a couple hours. I pulled most of those links out of my favorites list. Thanks for stickying it. I hope many people find this helpfull.

    I am welcome to help anyone in need.... feel free to ask stupid questions. Ill help to the best of my knowledge.

  6. #6
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco BlueDragon will become famous soon enough BlueDragon's Avatar

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    Ok, so youve mated fiberglass to the stock plastic bumpers before... is it best to do this with rivets? or what?

  7. #7
    AllOutRed90
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    From personal experience, Its easiest to anchor it (self-tapping screws, rivets, ETC) And then you some Resin and Mat. You have to do a couple layers of that. If you flick it with your finker it should be hard and made a noise like the when you flick the rest of the fiberglass bumper. Then its best use the fleece and resin concept. The reason being, there are large spaces between the 2 sizes of the peices. Large gaps = some way to fill in the gap, without using bondo. so then, as some of you may know, some may not. You take fleece. You cut it to size. Hot glue it, or stick it in some way. Make sure there are noe wrinkles or stretch marks. Then spread resin over it. Let it harden. After its hard, Mix some Filler and Resin together, 1/2 and 1/2. Then take some chop mat and peice it apart in small peices, and mix it all together with a mixing stick. It will form a very hard but smooth substance, its easier to sand. After appropriate amounts of cream hardener. Spread it carefully, this stuff is runny. You can do a couple layers of that. Then after that, i would use some tiger hair, or bondo glass, which is Body filler and chop mat blended together. Put some hardener in, and spread that across.... By now it should be perfect. Well except sanding. Now sand still smooth. From using the filler-mat substance you will want to sand alot, its a clumpy substance. so after that it will be pitted a little bit. This is the part where you pull out your nice filler, mix it with hardener, and spread that across in thin layers. Sand it, then day some more layers as needed. Then after that, use about 5 layers of high-build primer, and you should be ready for paint.

    does that help any?

  8. #8
    Featuring Chaos, the Wendigo Celica Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy has a reputation beyond repute Murgatroy's Avatar
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    I am impressed. A lot.

    Good Job Nick.

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  9. #9

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    Yeah man this was a very helful thread, I found out some new stuff by checking out the links...
    Great Post

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    ^CLICK THE SIG^

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  10. #10
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco BlueDragon will become famous soon enough BlueDragon's Avatar

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    Hey thanks alot man, thats complex! nothing like a simple mould. I guess I better learn to do it though If I wanna make a kit fit my Alltrac, Ill hafta widen it and stuff, your method sounds real strong. Ill hafta read that a few more times Im sure! haha

    PS sorry for saying that photochop thing on your other thread, the pics just looked fishy to me too. All due respect for your knowledge!
    Peace

  11. #11
    AllOutRed90
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    Yeap, as stated in that thread. I had to brighten and contrast the images using photoshop, and it turned out too look kinda chopped. Im loving all of the good feedback, my techniques might not always be the right way. But, thats the way i do it. I also forgot to mention, i learned everything myself, so if there are proffesionals out there that can correct any of my wrongs. Then feel free.

    Ill try to muster up some new links whenever i come across something i feel is helpfull.

    Anyone else got a question?

    EDIT: I just added a section about color sanding and high build primers. I also rearranged the thread so that it would go in order. Meaning, you will want to start with resin and mat so that you have that knowledge before putting on the filler.

    Also just added right now, 3 great techniques to repair dents.
    Last edited by AllOutRed90; 11-08-2005 at 12:08 AM.

  12. #12
    CelicaTech Supporter 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST's Avatar
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    1. For the STs you have to widen the rear bumper of a kit (I think) 2" because of the wide "ass" coupe. How would fill in the gap? Would you just lay a mat over it, resin, rinse, lather, repeat? Here is the final result. How would I achieve this?
    2. I have this huge dent on the roof of my car. Without having it professionally done, how would I remove it? It is kind of "creased." I don't know what to do about it except to throw money around to have it fixed.
    Last edited by 90CelicaST; 11-08-2005 at 02:38 AM.

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
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    I don't like going out.

    That is why my friends are all on the interwebz. That way when I don't feel like being sociable, I just close the window.

  13. #13
    AllOutRed90
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    Cool another question.

    For your dent, follow technique #3. Thats my best advice.

    For the bumper.... You would have to cut down the middle. Then mount the middle together with a couple wooden dowels. Make sure its straight across also. The dowls will give the resin and mat a shape. You will have mock up your bumper some way. meaning to tape it in place, or temporarily hold it with perfect fitment. Then you will have a gap in the middle with 2 or so dowels held up inside the bumper across the gap. Go grap and old t-shirt or fleece, or curtain. Some time of cloth stuff. Wrap is around the dowels, but not over the bumper. If you wrap it over the bumper then the middle will be raise a couple CM's or so. Once the dowels have been wrapped and held in place, make sure there are no wrinkles or creases. Then mix some resin and hardener and brush it on. After that has hardened you will want to mix up what i like to call a milkshake , Its filler and resin together. You want a 1 to 3 mixture, 2 part filler 1 parts resin. or more, whichever you think is the perfect mix. Then mix in your hardener. Brush that over the area. It should be smooth and almost flush now. Now cut out some chop mat to size, and brush some resin or milkshake in that. do about 3 more layers. It will be nice and perfect now. should be flush. Sand it till its nice and smooth, or as smooth as you will get it. Mix up some body filler, and spread that over your area, and keep it as smooth as possible in thinner layers. sand between layers, and do a couple coats. After that sand it as SMOOTH as possible with whatever grit paper works. Then you will need some high-build primer. Spray several layers (about 4-5) and color sand that. Then your ready for paint. The bumper will be in one peice, now you must remove it. take some resin and mat and make a bumper of layers to the inside , that will make it nice and stiff. and then it wont flex at all.

    It sounds complex. But its really not too hard, should only take a couple hours.

    g'luck

  14. #14
    CelicaTech Supporter 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST's Avatar
    90CelicaST has donated to the forums! 90CelicaST helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. 90CelicaST helped KM replace his 5-year-old clutch.

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    Sweet. Thanks AllOut, or Whyte, or whoever you are now . Expect many a questions out of me in the future. Good luck with everything

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    I don't like people.

    I don't like going out.

    That is why my friends are all on the interwebz. That way when I don't feel like being sociable, I just close the window.

  15. #15
    AllOutRed90
    Guest

    Default

    Your welcome, Rep points for you! lol...

  16. #16
    CelicaTech Supporter 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST's Avatar
    90CelicaST has donated to the forums! 90CelicaST helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. 90CelicaST helped KM replace his 5-year-old clutch.

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    https://www.fibreglast.com/contentpa...enter-286.html
    There is some good information on fiberglass, carbon fiber, etc.

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    I don't like people.

    I don't like going out.

    That is why my friends are all on the interwebz. That way when I don't feel like being sociable, I just close the window.

  17. #17
    AllOutRed90
    Guest

    Default

    Great find~!

  18. #18

    Default

    good stuff

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  19. #19

    Default

    I'll make it a sticky
    ____________________________________________

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    AIM: SpoolinPleasure

    98 GST - Greddy Profec Type S, evo valve lash adjusters, FMIC, 660cc Injectors, EVO Big 16g Turbo, 6 BOLT SWAP, and 6 puck clutch

  20. #20

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