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  1. #1

    Default DIY - Replace oil pan gasket

    Discovered I was leaking oil out from the rear of my oil pan, so I decided to fix it.

    Also, I'm writing this from memory but I think I've got all the required steps in there.

    Tools you will need
    - Lots of Brake Kleen
    - Liquid wrench / PB Blaster
    - nylon / wire brush
    - Razor blade to remove old RTV
    - 10, 12, 14, 19mm sockets in various drives
    - Long breaker bar or impact gun for suspension cross member bolts
    - Torque wrench
    - RTV ( I used some gold copper stuff found @ crappy tire )
    - At least 2 jack stands
    - Solid Jack

    Time required: ~7 hours ( Took me longer as we needed to run across the city for a breaker bar and a 19mm socket, plus we took our time for lunch )
    Difficulty: 5/10 ( It would be a 3/10 but needing a torque wrench/breaker bar increased it)

    Start by making sure your engine is warm, then proceed to drain the oil.

    Jack the front of the car up using the indicated jack points

    Remove the plastic bits under your car

    Ensure the engine is properly supported either by a hoist or by a jack and a metal plate (hold it via the transmission)

    Remove the suspension cross member that runs side to side first, then remove the suspension cross member that runs front to back. There are rubber inserts along the members that cover bolts that attach to the motor/tranny mounts. Remove these first.

    Remove your exhaust midpipe (runs from the middle of the car to the downpipe) Note - There was a gasket on the back part of the exhaust, I replaced it with RTV and it seems to be holding up so far.

    You should have easy access to all of the oil pan bolts now. When I did this I tried to remove the oil pan without removing the exhaust/etc. before.This ended up costing me a lot of time.

    Remove the oil pan. Depending upon the condition of the current RTV gasket, it may be stuck on there pretty good. I would suggest using a flat head screw driver to break away some of the seal then VERY gently working it in and using it to pry it away from the block. Once you get it started it comes off very easily.

    Use your Wire brush/Razor blade to clean off ALL of the old gasket and clean up the mating surfaces. I also used Brake Kleen to clean out the inside of the oil pan. If you use Brake Kleen, give it plenty of time to dry/evaporate before reinstalling the part. It will dissolve your oil. Also be *VERY* Cautious about spraying it around your bottom end. Avoid this if possible.

    Inspect the oil sump/pickup and clean any obvious obstructions out of the filter. You want to touch things as little as possible here.

    Apply a bead of RTV to the pan, ensuring you go around the bolt holes. I'd personally rather have a little bit too much than not enough.

    Reinstall the oil pan using the two bolt holes as a guide to line everything up. If you have a helper, they're really handy at this point, otherwise hold the pan in the middle of your chest and use it to support it while you get a few bolts in.

    Install all of your bolts and ensure you only FINGER TIGHTEN them. Let the RTV/liquid gasket sit for about 20-40 minutes so it can setup before fully torquing them down. Torque spec's should be around 48 inch pounds. The RTV will not setup properly if you immediately torque everything down. I learned this the hard way somewhere else.

    While you are waiting for the RTV to setup, this may be an excellent time to clean off your suspension cross members and underside of your engine. My engine has had numerous leaks over the years apparently, so I had a crap load of dirt/oil/coolant down there. I probably took off 15 lbs of crap from my suspension cross members alone.

    Go ahead and apply some RTV to both sides of your exhaust, or use proper gaskets. Reattach the suspension cross members via the motor mounts first, then attach them to the frame. The suspension cross member bolts that attach to the frame require 120 Ft Lbs of torque.

    Refill your oil. I used an entire 4.4L bottle of oil after doing this. You may also want to replace your oil filter if it's around that time. I had changed my oil filter 200km's ago so I didn't see a point.

    Ensure the RTV has had 1-2 hours at least to set up. The bottle suggests 24 hours though.

    Start the engine and check for leaks, hopefully you have one less leak after this operation.

  2. #2
    Rev Over 9000...Safely Now donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs's Avatar
    donteatbugs has been to an annual Dragon Meet! donteatbugs has donated to the forums! donteatbugs helped get Grayscale's Celica towed from The Dragon in 2008. donteatbugs helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. donteatbugs helped bring Chaos back to the Dragon

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    Default

    one thing to watch out for is the side by the transmission. when putting rtv on it follow the scribed line or you will have a huge leak there. also be careful tightening the bolts that go in the oil pump as they are aluminum threads. some people have changed out their bolts for a stud/nut combo all the way around. this can be nice but will cost a little more.

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  3. #3
    Lifetime Member joe's gt is a glorious beacon of light joe's gt is a glorious beacon of light joe's gt is a glorious beacon of light joe's gt is a glorious beacon of light joe's gt is a glorious beacon of light joe's gt's Avatar
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    Default

    I used generic RTV like you did and it only lasted me 2-3 years before it started leaking. I think toyota has sealant stuff specifically for the oil pan, so that is another route to consider instead of the RTV.
    - Shadow's Minion Army - Grand Inquisitor -

    This has been the best and most frustrating experience of my life. I thank my dad for all the help he has given me in this rare restoration. Now that the car is done, I wouldn't trade it for the world.

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  4. #4
    Rev Over 9000...Safely Now donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs is a glorious beacon of light donteatbugs's Avatar
    donteatbugs has been to an annual Dragon Meet! donteatbugs has donated to the forums! donteatbugs helped get Grayscale's Celica towed from The Dragon in 2008. donteatbugs helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. donteatbugs helped bring Chaos back to the Dragon

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    Default

    toyota fipg is far superior to rtv

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    Shadow's Minion Army - member #3

  5. #5

    Default

    Yep. FIPG wins.
    2000 Absolute Red Celica GTS 6-Spd
    1991 Crimson Red MR2 Turbo


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    - Shadow's Army - Commander In Chief


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    Originally Posted by surfergravity
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    This thread is gayer than Richard Simmons singing a duet with Elton John in a bath house.

  6. #6

    Default

    +1 on the toyota fipg. p/n 00295-00103

    edit: I don't know about using rtv on exhaust...lol
    Last edited by d1alltrac; 05-03-2010 at 08:18 AM.
    ST165 x2

  7. #7

    Default

    +2 on FIPG, just pray you don't have to take the oil pan off any time soon. Ended up bending an oil pan since I was in a hurry. Slow and steady with a razor and a putty knife work wonders. (life lesson #1,000,978)

    -Terracar

  8. #8

    Default

    Is there a kit for converting to studs/nuts on the oil pan?

  9. #9

  10. #10

    Default

    i was thinking thinking of using permatex ultra black. should i consider something else?
    1990 Celica Alltrac /w Carlos Sainz Edition motor, ecu, and transmission.

  11. #11

    Default

    I always use Ultra copper, as it seems to be the 'best' Ultra black may work just as well, maybe better, I don't know.

    If people like Luni and Donteatbugs who have worlds more experience than I are suggesting toyota FIPG, then I would go with FIPG.

  12. #12
    Senior Member v8killer is on a distinguished road

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    lol believe it or not i used the copper permatex stuff as a ex manifold gasked that never let go till i took the manifold off!! that shiat is awesome imo better than any and every rtv or similar out there. by the way permatex owns 96% of the industry i think only toyota and maybe a couple others use their own stuff otherwise its just re packaged or labled. and if you look closely u will find at least the permatex emblem on these products the grey is the most universal

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    black st165 sleeper- the v8 killin' 2.0L bottle of whoop-ass!
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    "Straight lines are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers" Colin McRae- RIP


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    Originally Posted by Luni
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    Are you serious?

    Jesus, you really should just get a fucking sportscar that was designed to go fast.

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