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  1. #51
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco celica9303 is on a distinguished road celica9303's Avatar

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    Spoiler delete? Or Are my eyes playing with me..?

    Looks great!
    - Shadow's Army - Topless Decoy -

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    Originally Posted by The Captain
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    I own the car because I didn't want to be like everybody else.

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    Originally Posted by Shadowlife25
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    It's like you have a Sock Monster, but it has acquired a taste for car parts instead.......
    project Topless Decoy: now undecided
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  2. #52
    The Ultimate Celica Driver
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    vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09 has a brilliant future vip09's Avatar
    vip09 ran a 14.7 on the Dragon! vip09 has donated to the forums! vip09 helped get Grayscale's Celica towed from The Dragon in 2008. vip09 helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. vip09 helped KM replace his 5-year-old clutch.

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    I like the new look! Great job
    Best GT-S STOCK times: 1/4: 14.788 @ 94.98mph 1/8: 9.640 @ 75.87mph
    Best Alltrac times: 1/4: 12.2 @ 115mph 1/8th: 7.9 @ 91mph

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    Originally Posted by forgies
    look vip is the ultimate celica driver... He needs a section of celicatech devoted to him!

  3. #53

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    looks really clean, and dont worry every one in houston has those wheels to, discount tires here is aways having some kind of wheel and tire combo price with those wheels
    R.I.P Cherry Bomb (1990 Celica ST)


    They call me Hadoken because im DOWN RIGHT FIERCE
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  4. #54

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    Thanks guys.

    Yep, no spoiler. A previous owner had taken it off. I've got one from Pic n Pull but I'm still debating about painting it and putting it on.

    Grimmy, these wheels are every where here. I've seen them on everything from a Hyundai Accent to a Chrysler 300. Back home nobody else had them.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  5. #55
    Mustang Crew Grot has much to be proud of Grot has much to be proud of Grot has much to be proud of Grot has much to be proud of Grot has much to be proud of Grot has much to be proud of Grot has much to be proud of Grot has much to be proud of
    Grot has been to an annual Dragon Meet! Grot has donated to the forums! Grot helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. Grot helped bring Chaos back to the Dragon

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    Looks great Mike.

    Screw the spoiler, i love your car without it.

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    Originally Posted by Murgatroy
    And I had a mullet to prove it.

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    Originally Posted by BabyBear
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    Ive decided youre gay.

    Good day.

  6. #56
    Lifetime Member Tecker184 is on a distinguished road Tecker184's Avatar
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    Ever consider putting the lip spoiler off the GT on your car?

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    90 alltrac st215 swapped
    94 corolla 5sfe 5 lug swapped
    02 tacoma soon to be 2uzfe swapped
    10 KTM duke 690 pipe sprocket remap

  7. #57

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    I've actually got a GT spoiler too. Every time I start to put one on I have a change of heart. One of them may make on it eventually but I'm still not sure.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  8. #58
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco celica9303 is on a distinguished road celica9303's Avatar

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    Any more vinyl work? Or just the one piece?
    - Shadow's Army - Topless Decoy -

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    Originally Posted by The Captain
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    I own the car because I didn't want to be like everybody else.

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    Originally Posted by Shadowlife25
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    It's like you have a Sock Monster, but it has acquired a taste for car parts instead.......
    project Topless Decoy: now undecided
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  9. #59

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    Painted wheels and lower look much better.
    Coldiron (Cold - Iron) | Dragon Meet OG

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    | offensivetheory.deviantart.com/
    1992 Celica Gtfour | 2003 350z Track

  10. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by celica9303 View Post
    Any more vinyl work? Or just the one piece?
    You mean the CF wrap on the shift plate and radio plate? Nah, that's all I've done on that front for now. Still have more just haven't done anything else with it yet.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  11. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by cms-gt4 View Post
    Painted wheels and lower look much better.
    Thanks Josh. It's coming along and I'm liking the look a lto better. Especially the wheels.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  12. #62
    Ultimo Miembro Fantástico Gigantesco celica9303 is on a distinguished road celica9303's Avatar

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    t
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitro_Alltrac View Post
    You mean the CF wrap on the shift plate and radio plate? Nah, that's all I've done on that front for now. Still have more just haven't done anything else with it yet.
    Yup, never saw the radio trim finished.I want to redo my interior with vinyl.
    - Shadow's Army - Topless Decoy -

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    Originally Posted by The Captain
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    I own the car because I didn't want to be like everybody else.

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    Originally Posted by Shadowlife25
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    It's like you have a Sock Monster, but it has acquired a taste for car parts instead.......
    project Topless Decoy: now undecided
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  13. #63

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    Been a while. After the move and winter setting in, didn't have a chance to do much with no garage. I have changed out the downpipe. The old one cracked and I had tried to fix it but it didn't hold. When I got it off, it was much worse than I thought. No wonder I was getting exhaust fumes in the cockpit. I replaced it with a Berk stainless downpipe. Very nice piece of work and went in without a hitch. I do think it positions the midpipe slightly differently than the old one. I've a got a rattle now that I didn't have before. I'm pretty sure it's where the pipe goes over the crossmember. I've adjusted it a couple times not but positive results. I think I'm going to have to take it to the exhaust shop and get them to take a look. Here's the old pipe and the new one.



    Here's the crack in the old one.



    I have also had a coolant loss issue since moving the car back from Texas. I don't know if it was coincidence or if the moving company did something. They did break the grill and the hood trim but I could find any direct evidence of further damage. Anyway, I thought at first it was the head gasket and after checking everything out, that seemed to not be the issue. I kept looking but couldn't really find anything. I put dye in the radiator and ran that for a while. I finally notice that there was coolant showing up in the channel at the bottom of the radiator between the core and the tank. I got a pressure tester and tested the radiator and sure enough, a couple leaks. I thought about getting it repaired but decided to go with a Mishimoto aluminum replacement. I have to say that when they say it is direct drop in, they mean it. It actually fits better than the one I took out. It has all of the mount points for all of the stock accessories. I could have even used my stock fan but I replaced that with a 12" slimline. So far, everything is working great. Here's the radiator mounted. I realized when I was done that I should have taken more pictures.

    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  14. #64

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    Time to update this thread while I'm off this week.

    The coolant leak showed back up a month or so after putting the new radiator in. Kept looking around for where it was coming from.

    Fired the car up and got it to operating temp and varied the engine speed up and down for a bit. Right after I shut it down I jumped out and looked. Coolant was almost streaming down underneath. It was coming down over the front of the oil pan. It also looked like there was some coolant on the block between the oil cooler and the back of the water pump housing. Since the coolant was coming down over the front of the oil pan, about two inches from the passenger side from corner, I thought I've got a by pass hose leaking. The wonder HFH on earth.

    I pulled the alternator off and got the thermostat housing off so I can hopefully get to both ends of the hose. This may not be it but I would think if the pump as starting to weep it would be coming down over the side of the pump.

    Well, I think I found my leak.



    Ordered the new hose so I thought I'd see if I could get the old one off. Took all work after removing the alternator, the AC line, the oil filter and the thermostat housing. I'm pretty confident that Toyota hired the engineering department at GM to design this set up. I don't think the Japanese could come up with such an asinine set up by themselves. It really looks like something from GM.

    Anyway, from the looks of this hose, this has to be this particular leak. Hopefully the hose comes in tomorrow and I can get it on Saturday morning without too much trouble and be back on the road. Wish me luck. It think I'm going to need it.

    I have to say that after taking the alternator and oil filter it is possible to get to it. I may have a different story trying to put it back on. This one came off the pipes easier that the HFH BUT it isn't exposed to nearly as much heat. I picked the new one up today so hopefully I can get it on this weekend depending on the weather. We're still getting rain off and on but thankfully we haven't gotten nearly as much as some of the surrounding areas and we didn't have the tornados.

    OK, got the hose on and everything put back together. Filled the radiator and ran it till it got hot. So far, no leak. I'll take it out and drive it tomorrow.

    So now, here are a few pics of this fun process. It actually wasn't as bad as I thought it might be.

    Here's the new hose. It's much more solid feeling than the old one. It's hard to tell how old the one that came off was, probably original. This engine is a JDM unit that was swapped in two owners ago. It's got about 130K on it (I found the Japanese receipt from the vehicle it was pulled out of. Only had 19K when it came out.)



    Here's where the hose goes back into. It doesn't look that bad with the front corner of the engine taken off.



    Here's a close up. The ends of the two pipes are about 1/2" to 3/4" apart. It's pretty tight in there.



    Here's the new hose installed and the second clamp getting ready to go into place.



    Hopefully this takes care of things for a while. I think the only other hose that should probably be replace are one of the heater lines (I had one spring a leak while I was in the Hill Country in Texas at night. Big fun) and that water by pass hose on the back. I'm going to do those soon so that is one less thing to worry about.

    Oh, and DEGREASE the freakin engine.

    It wasn't as bad as some have written. The thing with these two by pass hose (HFH and HFHOE) is that there is no quick easy way to change them out. You have to disassemble a good part of the front of the engine to get down to them. It's not an easy job but one that you can do if you've got some mechanical skills and have done some wrenching before.

    Personally I would have rather liked Toyota to have run threaded hard lines into the oil cooler. I know that they used the rubber for service purposes but it makes for a weak link. I don't know about others, but the only time in 8 years that I've had the oil cooler/filter base loose is when I did the Berk downpipe.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  15. #65

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    2nd to 3rd gen 3SGTE electronics conversion

    I've been gathering parts for over a year now and I'm ready to start the process. I've been following Luni's write up over at MR2OC about how to go about this.

    http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?...ics+conversion

    There is a lot of go information about what you need and how to go about doing this in his thread along with another thread that is linked to his. It doesn't appear to be that difficult with Berk conversion harness that out there due to Luni's work.

    I've got that and a 205 ECU that I got from lalojamesliz. He also hooked me up with the cold start injector plate that allows for the MAT to be installed in place of the CSI. I picked up the injectors from spitfiremk16. Thanks to the great Pic n Pulls in San Antonio I got the igniter, the AFM plug, the IAT. I've made the harnesses for the MAT and IAT and they're ready to go. I've made an adapter harness to adjust the voltages so I can use the gen2 map sensor for now. Here's a link to a thread at MR2OC on how to do this for either a GM 2bar MAP sensor or to adapt the existing 2nd gen.

    http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=461736

    I know that this isn't ideal but I don't want to put out $120-150 bucks for a 3rd gen right now. I've been looking trying to find a decent deal on one in Europe but so far no luck. Based on that thread and few other things I've find this should work for now.

    So, the weather is supposed to be good tomorrow. I've got the day off and I'm going to start tomorrow morning. I'm going to try to take pictures as I go and post my experiences up. Changing the injectors is supposed to be about the worst part.

    Made progress today. I finished what little wiring I had left. I got the 540 injectors ready to install and then worked on getting the 2nd gen fuel rail and injectors out. This took about 3.5 hours. Finally got it out. It was a pain in the ass. Also got the cold start injector out. I cleaned up the fuel rail and took out the old injectors. This was where I ran into trouble. Somebody had been in there before (I could tell before this as some of the OEM clamps had been replaced with worm clamps). Some how they had cracked the bottom of one of the injector holders (could have been a manufacturing defect I guess, but anyway, when I pulled the insulator off to put the new one on there was a chunk of aluminum was gone. I double checked to make sure that I didn't mess it up but there were no pieces laying around so it's been like that for a good while.

    OK, an update on something other than the fuel rail fiasco.

    In billion percent humidity (I love WV in the summer time) and between rain showers, I actually got a little bit done this evening. I swapped out the igniter. I used a 5S unit with the 175 on top. It is more or less a straight swap. It does require just a little modification for the stock plug to fit. Looking at the connector on the igniter, on the left side there is a hump (for lack of a better term) that is too big to allow the harness connector to slide all the way into place. It's about twice the size of the one on the right side Take a pocket knife, Xacto, Dremel or what ever and remove this hump. (I've got extra igniters so I'll try to get a picture illustrating this hump.) It's pretty easy to get off. Once that is done, the plug goes straight on. From here, straight bolt on to the bracket on the firewall.

    I got the MAT installed in the place of the cold start injector. I used the adapter plate that I had gotten from lalojamesliz. Worked great. The plate is a straight bolt in. I did have to retap the sensor hole. I used the GM sensor with has a 3/8-18 NPT nut. I'm guessing that the adapter plate was originally tapped for a Toyota MAT. The threads were off enough that the GM sensor wouldn't go in.

    I also go the harness run to the sensor and got it hooked up. I pulled the AFM out and have my MAT/IAT adapter harness hooked up. I have to get something to hook my intake hoses back together. (I have the battery mounted in the stock location so no straight intake.) Once I get the adapter piece in place I'll install the IAT. This will also give me a place to install a barb and recycle my blow off valve.

    Next step after this, when I'm not swimming outside, will be to install the 205 ECU. I've got the Berk harness so this should be plug and play. The only thing I'm concerned about since this is a 205 ECU, am I going to get the Code 54 for the intercooler water level/intercooler pump? There shouldn't be anything in the harness to feed into that pin on the ECU. I looked at the pinouts and that part should be OK. I wondering though that if even nothing is hooked to that pin, will the ECU through the code? On the 205 swaps that don't use the WTA but have the 205 harness, the easy way around this is to jump the two pins. Since I'm on the 185 harness there is nothing to modify. All of the 3rd gen electronics conversions that I've found detail info on so far have used the MR2 ECU, so this is not a problem. Anybody have any idea if this is going to be a problem and if so, any ideas on how to get around it? I have the 205 WTA intercooler but I really don't want to have to figure out how to wire that float in or figure out how to wire the pump so that the ECU sees it.

    More updates to follow.

    OK, I've been going through some more documentation I've found and I think I've found way around the code 54 for the intercooler water level sensor.

    The common fix give for the water level sensor error for a car with the 205 harness but using a FMIC is to jump the two pins in the water level sensor plug. But in my case since I'm on the 185 harness there's no plug. There's my conundrum. So, looking in the Celicatech BGB section, there is a 3SGTE supplement repair manual for the 94 model. It gives the test procedure at the ECU for this sensor and the state at the plug depending on if the float is up or down. If the float is up, it should have continuity. If it's down, no continuity. I also found the wiring diagram that shows the wiring from the water level sensor to the ECU. It's a simple circuit, one wire goes to the LEV pin on the ECU and the other side goes to a body ground. Here's the diagram. The water level sensor pin, LEV and sensor are in the bottom right corner.



    Based on this and what the 205 owners say they do to get around the code 54 when going to a FMIC, I'm thinking I should be able to just ground the LEV pin and that should show continuity on the circuit. By putting a jumper in the plug on the 205 harness all they are doing is hooking the LEV pin to the ground on the other wire. I'm thinking this should work.

    Alltracman78 posted info about the issue with intercooler pump and the ECU. His post has the web address for a GT4 site (www.gt4dc.co.uk) in the UK and I checked it out as well. They have some good info there and even had some pictures of what they were doing with wiring on the 205 harness to get around this. Based on the diagram this diagram, I'm just going to make a small circuit with the resistors as shown and wire everything into the correct pins. This should cure that issue.



    Talking further with Alltracman78, I found that you can ground the LEV pin to the body and this should take care of that part of the code 54 problem.

    Also, here's a diagram I found that decodes most of the 205 pins. Thought this might be of help to someone doing something similar.



    Time for an update.

    I'm getting close. I finished making up the wiring that I needed over the weekend. I had to get the adapter harness put together to get around the code 54 intercooler issue with the 205 ECU. Thanks to Alltracman I think I've got all of that worked out. The post that Jeremy put up with the diagram is the way around that. I made a harness that I spliced into the Berk harness. That went fine.

    A couple of things about the Berk harness. It makes this a simple process for the 90-91 wiring (I have a 90-91 JDM ECU so I had already repined the harness previously. With the stock 92-93, I really think it would be easy and cheaper to repin the plugs. They are pretty close to the 205 setup). First, on the one I got the FC pin on the 205 side was in the wrong place. It was in the spot for the intercooler water level sensor, LEV. Easy enough to fix by moving the pin but if I hadn't checked the harness this would have been a major pain. This may just have been a mistake on the one that I got but if you use the harness be sure to check that. Second, unlike the harness that Luni got, the wiring for the MAT and IAT are labeled and there on the 205 side but the are just cut wires and not connected to the VS and THA spots on the 185 side. Not a big deal but I was under the impression that they would be connected. Third the wire for the M+ pin is wired into the E2 pin. Not an issue if using the MR2 ECU but for the 205 this wire/pin is needed for the code 54 fix. Once again, not a big deal but something to be aware of if doing this conversion with the 205 ECU.

    I've got the ECU in, the harness hooked up to it and the extra wiring under the dash finished. I also got the converter harness for the gen2 MAP installed. The only things left are getting the connector pipe into the intake hoses and putting the IAT into that and getting the fuel rail put together with the 540 injectors and installed. I want to thank ChrisD and Luni for helping me out with the fuel rail issue. Luni hooked me up with a good stock one and ChrisD made me a hell of a deal on a WolfKatz. Once that's put together and installed I'll be ready to try to fire it up.

    I got the fuel rail all put back together. It's ready to go back in now. I've also got my AFM replacement pipe done and ready to finish installing. The recovery from the sinus surgery, while not as bad as I thought it might be is taking more than I thought it would. Hopefully I can get this back together while I'm off this week.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  16. #66

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    Keep up the good work Mike You are doing great so far, even though it can be frustrating at times.
    - Mario
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    Questions?

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  17. #67

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    Here's another update with regards to the 3rd gen electronics conversion. I hadn't kept up with my project thread like I should have.

    Here's the diagram for the code 54 fix for a non-205. The other diagram I posted is supposed to work with the 205 to solve the code issue if you remove the WTA and go with a front mount. This solution works without the 205 harness. I'm not sure that the relay is actually necessary. You might be able to get away with using the diagram and running switched 12V to the INT pin. That pin is part of the WTA system and the 205 would have the wire in the ECU harness for that one, thus not needing it to cure the code 54 issue.

    Anyway, I can say this solution works. Here's the diagram.



    I'm also posting a diagram I made to show the correct way to hook the voltage divider up. I hooked mine up wrong the first time and figured I might not be the only one. The key thing here is to make sure that the R1 resistor is below the R2 resistor for this to work. Here's that diagram.



    Hopefully these will help anybody doing this conversion.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  18. #68

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    Update on the project.

    I traded some of the parts I had to BlueDragon for a 3rd gen MAP sensor. It came today and I got it put on. First off, it fixed the fuel cut issue. I'm going to 14 psi right where the MBC is set. No problem at all. Second, right now it looks like it has helped with the cold idle issue I've been having. Prior to the change to the 3rd gen MAP, the car ran like crap when starting up cold. It coughed and sputtered pretty bad for a minute or two before it finally settled down. The car was cold when I started it after changing the sensor and it idled fine right from the start.

    So, for anybody looking to do this conversion, it is possible to run it on the 2nd gen MAP with the voltage divider. It works OK. Using the resistor set up that I did, it looks like the voltages that the ECU sees are higher than they should be for the given pressure/vacuum. You could play around more with the resistors to see if you could get the ECU signal voltages more in line with the 3rd gen sensor. I'm see this now as a stop gap measure until you can get a 3rd gen MAP. It would also be a good back up in case the 3rd gen sensor goes out. The 2nd gen with the voltage divider would allow you to the car running until you could get a replacement.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  19. #69

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    Well here's the next phase of my All Trac project.

    I got the car up in the air a couple of weeks ago during the plant shutdown to take a look at my rust situation. The floor pan isn't too bad. The guy that had it right before me had cleaned it up and undercoated it really good. I found a couple of spots that I'll have to take care of, surprisingly all on the driver's side. The passenger side is all surface rust that I'll take care of well.

    The big issue, which I knew about but hadn't check, was the front of the left quarter panel between the door and the wheel well. I knew there was a problem because on time when I was going to jack the car up on the jack point the jack went through. Not good. I had just not pulled the plastic trim panel off to see what was up. While I was under the car checking the floor board I looked at that area behind the trim panel. The whole bottom of the quarter was gone as I expected.

    So, today I got the car back up and treated the floor pan areas to stop the rust. I'll finish that up soon. After that I decided to go ahead and pull the trim panel to see just how bad things were. What I found was pretty bad. When I had gotten the car, that section was in red primer. I checked it over at that time but it seemed solid. I didn't check for filler. What I found today was that most likely the damn sunroof drain was on through the hole at the bottom of the panel and had been draining into the quarter. My fault. Never thought to check it. I also think that it combined with a small hole that had started in the front of the wheel house and that allowed salt and crud to get in there as well. Long story short the whole bottom of the panel was gone.

    I decided at this point to get my angle grinder and start cutting to see what I've really got. Made the first cut into the panel and it the disc went though the rear of the panel like butter and then slowed toward the front. The bottom of the panel had a lot of filler. I ended up going up to about an inch below the body side molding and everything was solid there. There was a skim count on top but metal underneath. I cut all of that out, down toward the bottom of the door and part of the back of the rocker pane. This got all of the bad stuff out of the out skin.

    What I had underneath was not as bad as it could be. The inner structure that is against the back of the quart is pretty much gone. The rear 12" or so of the pinch weld is gone as I expected. The pinch weld ahead of that is good. The inner panel that goes up inside of the quarter looked pretty good, just surface rust. The quarter is good from where I cut it.

    I've got what I need to fix it. I've got quarter sections from a salvage yard car in Texas and the piece I took from Bruce's car. I got the outer rocker panel skin from Bruce's car as well. I think I've actually got enough of the end of the rocker panel on the quarter section from the TX car. I'm thinking that I'm going to have to fab something to replace the inner piece of the pinch weld. It doesn't look like I cut that off of either car where I can use it. I'll figure something out there.

    The only other bad spots that I've got to fix are the bottom of the quarter behind the wheel opening and a section on the right rocker panel toward the front. I've got the metal to fix both of those areas as well. I've got to cut into the rear section to see how far I'm going to have to go up. Right now I've got a three inch hole in the bottom but it doesn't rollup the side. I'm hoping I can just do a section at the bottom.

    I've been debating what to do with the car, fix it, sell it, part it out. I get a great lease deal through the plant and can get a great deal on a new FR-S. I thought a lot about that. I really like the All Trac though. I like the all wheel drive and the turbocharged engine. I also like that is rare. 271 I think in 92. It's been a good car over the 9 years I've had it. I think at this point I'm going to try to fix the rust and continue on. If that goes well, I'm planning on doing a 4th gen swap next year hopefully. Well see what happens.

    Below are pictures of what things look like presently after cutting into the panels.





    Last edited by Nitro_Alltrac; 07-25-2015 at 08:56 PM.
    Mike
    92 All Trac-Daily Driver


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  20. #70

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    Glad to see an alltrac not going to the grave for rust.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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    - sold
    Red 2001 GT-S "Hannah"

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