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  1. #1

    Default 91 All Trac Project "Mia" -Engine Pull Time!!! =/

    Figured I might as well finally get around to creating a project thread for this car, especially since I'm already starting to forget what I've done on what days. Its probably gonna be pretty scattered while I collect the photos and stuff, so give it a few days.

    Anyways, for a background, I found this car on Craigslist during the summer of '08 in the local area for like $4800. After a couple deals on some Del Sols and stuff feel free, I ended up going back to this car. Negotiated down to 4k, and the seller was willing to hold it for me until summer of '09 so I could spend my money on school stuff. Turned out well, since the Navy ended up failing in getting me on AT which I was counting on the money from to buy whatever vehicle I ended up getting. Anyways finally ended up borrowing money out of my retirement account (Stocks blow right now anyways so its not gonna be making any money for awhile), which works out well, 3% interest, and you pay it back to yourself, only money you lose is a $50 fee. Anyways the car, yes, ended up buying it on 6/4/09, and how it towed the 30 miles back to my house (ok, not so local, but friend owes the towing company, I got a good rate).

    So now its sitting on the street infront of my house (which happens to be a hill) with some random truck license plate thrown on from the seller way back when to keep his neighbors happy, and expired tags and inspection from 02. So now the race is on to get it fixed before someone finally calls it in or the city sees it and tries to tow.

    Known Issues at Purchase (Car has been sitting for 5-6 years):
    Turbo Oil seals are blown, its throwing oil into the air intake/tb/engine
    Rusted brake line in the front
    Some rust under driver side rocker
    Alloy Rim needs fixed
    Idles like crap
    Needs a new battery

    More Discovered Issues After a Few Hours of Work:
    Rotors and pads are gone, no resurfacing those bastards

    Hood Insulation is coming apart and ending up in weird places on the chassis

    Exhaust Needs atleast one hole patched/fixed, rear exhuast is going to need dropped and inspected

    Broke off 3 bolt heads in cat. convt to turbo. One was already missing
    :shrug:

    Rounded the A/C. bracket bolt, as well as the front engine support mount bolt. Another engine support bracket bolt is disfigured and needs replaced. Infact, there's a shitload of bolts either broken, rounded, or just flat out missing on the car (Radiator fan was attached via one bolt). I'm not even going to bother to list the rest, even though I prob will so I know to buy anyways.

    Catalytic Convert needs new seals.

    Coolant hoses are nice and rusted and dirty on the inside. Uh.....

    Oil residue is in the intercooler, and probably the rest of the air intake system from the turbo on.

    Fog lights don't work.

    Missing some brackets for the righthand fuse box (like all of them, like it was just wedged next to the battery). All of the fuse box cases also need new lids, as they're either cracked or have broken off tabs, or both. They'll hold for now though.

    Needs a paint job.



    So my first order of business has been to try and remove the bad turbo, and replace it with the one I got used. Hopefully the used on works. I've been cleaning up the old turbo in my free time. Using wire wheels to polish the exhaust side, and cleaned the intake side best I can. Had the exhaust manifold that came with it cleaned at NAPA's shop for $15, looks like brand new, so trying to get the turbo to look nice too. It was missing 3 studs, and another was broken off. Got the broken one out, and tapped new threads in. Also bought 3 other studs incase the ones on the car don't come out.

    So as of 6/14, I got the exhaust from the turbo to the mp/second part, idk, its like the first half. Also have the cat conv off, as well as the intercooler. A/C has all its bolts to the car loosened, but the bracket bolt got rounded, so its not going to get moved out of the way anyways for the turbo removal (per BGB). The clutch slave cylinder also isn't going anywhere, because the first bolt holding the hydraulic line to the block just turns, like there's a nut on the other side of it, but I can't find one on the back, so it just turns. But doesn't come out. I don't even know why the hell I gotta take it off in the first place :shrug:

    Coolant was also drained. Nasty. Either extremely dirty, or has oil in it, or both. Also went to remove the turbo oil hose from the pan. Thought oil might pour out of it (haven't drained the oil yet), and I was right, it started leaking as I was working the hose off. BGB didn't say to drain the oil, or maybe it did and I didn't remember, so I drained the oil. Which overflowed the drain pan I was using, partly because I'm on a hill I guess, but still wouldn't have fit. Ran in the house and found a jug to catch the last bit. etc etc. Needless to say I split a good amount in the street, and also a good bit on my porch transferring it jugs. That was nearly two days ago. Still have the stains. Sum bitch.

    The turbo is completely disconnected now, save for the oil hose(?) coming from the block on that huuuggggggeeeee ass nut. Gonna try and just disconnect the hose from the turbo itself instead. The bolt for the turbo bracket to the block is apparently not there (I'm finding numerous missing or loose bolts, clamps, etc). However the turbo will not come loose. It will slide down an inch or tow, then comes back up to nearly its resting position. Have only gotten it about a inch down the studs from the exhaust manifold. I'm guessing the bracket is pushing against the block, and the further down it goes, it just wedges and slides back up. Not sure how I'm going to get the bracket off the turbo though. :brick:

    Some pics.

    Oily turbo hose to intercooler.


    Oily Air Hose from turbo to air box if I remember right



    Rusty rotors. The light colored rust is the from pads rubbing the rotors because I had to use the ebrake when I moved it. :twisted:




    Pic of the Engine bay and removed parts after I took some stuff off the otherday. I'll get some updated ones.















    I was able to start the car before disassembly, actually fairly easier then last time when I was looking at with the seller. Still idles the same rough. Hopefully its nearly out of gas. Battery will not hold a charge though. Moved it backwards about 5 feet and then drifted/drove in 1st gear the 5 back down the street. The wheels turn and I guess the tranny and diff work :wink: . It seems the more I take this car apart, the more money its going to take. I originally wanted it on the road within a few days. Then I found out it needs $400 in brakes. Then the exhaust is going. So probably another $400 or so, and probably going to have to be that no name motoria or whatever the hell shit, since that's about only completely SS exhaust system under $750 I can seem to find really. I got lucky and only had to pay a total $3750 for the car, even though its really worth only about 3k, but still cheaper then 4k though. But my budget didn't include all this extra stuff to get on the road, I wish I would have known, I would have borrowed more money. I'm hoping the end of the month now to get it on the road. But even after its fixed, still about $350 just to get it registered and insured, then another $100 on inspection and getting the wheels aligned/retake emissions/etc. Fawwwwwuck.

    But I want it to get it right first time I guess and make sure its all good, since its going to be taking 450 mile road trips to VA, and back, almost right off the bat. Seems my only consolation is every single bolt I tighten, every hose I clean, every crusty rusted ass nut I clean and fix, every part I replace, every fluid changed and every detail I inspect makes the car just a little more reliable, just a little more sturdy, and a little more ready to hit the ground running, and give me a little piece of mind.

    Plans and parts list and all that to come. Open to suggestions ideas etc.

    Album of pics of car in the sellers yard, and two audio clips of it running. http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20All%20Trac/
    Last edited by Fox 21 Alpha; 11-22-2009 at 05:31 AM.

  2. #2

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    Finally got the turbo off today. I ended up just taking off the alt bracket which let me take off the exhaust manifold which let me simply pull up on the turbo, and the oil lines slid right off (took the nuts off beforehand). I took the old turbo in the basement, and got the elbow off. Gonna take it to NAPA tomorrow to have it cleaned.

    I'm still not sure what I'm going to do about the cat conv. It looks like shit, and def needs some serious cleaning, just to even get in new gaskets and put it back on. However I also gotta decide what I want to do with this exhaust, as if I end up getting a new system, then I very well may not use the old cat/downpipe set up. Lot of money, and more money=more time till its on the road, which = Going to have the elbow cleaned anyways, it should be less then $20. I guess I could clean the cat best I can, and throw that pos back on and maybe get lucky and patch that hole in the exhaust. If that could hold up until for a bit until I get a new exhaust system...... but I guess I should also finish dropping the rear exhaust first and check for any holes in that too.

    The "new-er" turbo is just about as cleaned up as I can seem to get it with the wire wheels and drill. Some areas I can't get to to shine up, but guess it will have to do. Gonna put a few more minutes cleaning it and it should be ready to go. Going to use the replacement studs I bought, since the ones on the old turbo are fairly rusty. New ones are slightly shorter and ever so slightly looser, but it should work out. My major concern is the turbo fell/rolled off the end of the work table a few days back. Didn't seem to even leave a mark on the iron housing, but it did fall prob 4 feet onto concrete. I hope it didn't unbalance it or anything, otherwise I'm really f**ked.

    Still have yet to ID where the two mystery bolts came from. Also have not come up with a solution to the rounded A/C bracket bolt. I may just leave it and deal with it in the future.

    Not sure how I'm going to clean the coolant system out. I'm planning to run some water with a tad of dish soap through the A2A intercooler, then finish up with a final rinse of some distilled. Not sure about the rubber hoses though. Looks like there's some decent amount of particles stuck to the sides in some.

    The vac hoses on the old turbo were also oily, which makes me think that oil got into the vac system. Not a clue what to do on that one....

    Going to the dealer tomorrow to see if I can get some gaskets for the sides of the replacement turbo, and see how much they want for an exhaust manifold gasket. If its too much I'll use the little private auto parts that usually has good prices or rockauto I guess.

    The $300-$400 brake job is still weighing heavily on my mind. I'm picking up all the extra hours I can to try and increase my income so I can start driving this thing, but thats a slow process with pay periods and all, and not to mention it seriously cuts into the time I can spend working on the car anyways.

    I'm just trying to get it on the road right now, not sure about the future. I wanted to get it back to stock just so I can see how that feels and then maybe do some light upgrades but keep it a DD. But looks like some things are gonna have to be improvements right off the bat (brakes, maybe the exhaust, etc). Didn't really want to seriously mod it since the interior is in such nice condition (power windows SCORE!!!!!!) compared to my 83, and didn't want to end up having to rip out the A/C and nice seats and shit to make it a decent track/rally car. Was going to orignally get this on the road, do some fun and light upgrading to give it a little edge, and then work on the 83 into a rally car. But idk the AWD and turbo will probably be very tempting. But for now I guess I'll try and focus on getting it on the road.

    Pics:









    The bastard rounded bolt


    Mystery Bolts....I took them off something....now if I could just figure out what.....


    Old Turbo


    Oily Vac Hoses from Wastegate Actuator


    The Exhaust


    The hold can easily be made bigger.....


    I took this off by the battery. I thought it was the igniter.....s.......?.... :shrug: .....but found that bolted to the engine bay/firewall in the back. I just kinda found it interesting looking. Not a clue what the hell it is or does though.




    Dirty Cat. Conv.


    Dirty Coolant Hoses. Tried Best I could to get good pics. Cellphone cameras aren't the greatest though.




    I'ma go try and read up/find a "high flow cat. conv." I believe its called, and see how much those cost and stuff. And then bed. Long day work today, and even longer tomorrow :USA:

  3. #3

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    Yeah the first 3 posts are copies off alltrac.net just incase you were wondering; I don't time warp or anything when I work on my cars....yet....

    Didn't get much done today really. Took a quick look at my bolts, gonna make a list tomorrow hopefully so I can head to the hardware store and get the replacements that I need so far (Somehow I don't think one bolt is gonna hold the radiator fan on for long......). Dropped off the downpipe elbow at NAPA to get it cleaned with the gasket for it as well. Gonna pick that up tomorrow. Also ordered in 3 gaskets for the turbo from the dealer today, the two smaller side ones, and the larger oil inlet hose thingy one. Not too bad, $20 for all three. Then $35 for the damn exhaust manifold gasket (I didn't like that carbon burn on the outside of the old one, hopefully its from just using a shitty gasket or not tightening the manifold down enough, but eitherway wanted to make sure I got a good one), which is funny, it was $25 when he first looked it up but somehow at check out it grew $10... :|

    Also going to out to Foreign Auto (local owned parts store) and pick up all the exhaust gaskets and see if they got anything for the cat conv. gasket. I think for now I'm going to just try and clean up the cat and exhaust system best I can and throw it back on. Hopefully when I drop the rear section there won't be any more holes, and I'll find a solution to the current hole. And then hopefully that will hold out for maybe a year give or take, and I'll just move the "Upgrade Exhaust" bullet higher on the mods/aftermarket/shitforwhenIhavemoney list.

    So in theory, all that's left (all....lol......ah I love how I kid myself):
    Replace Fuel Filter
    Oil and filter change
    Clean/replace coolant and vac hoses
    Coolant and other fluid change
    Put in new turbo gaskets and install
    Finish dropping, inspect, patch, and reinstall exhaust system
    Replace the bad brake line
    New dizzy cap and plugs
    Fix/replace all the little nuts and bolts missing/broke
    Fix the bent alloy rim....if you can even do that....we'll see what the tire guys say....
    Pay for insurance and registration
    Put some new gas in the tank
    Wipers and fog lights and stuff
    Car wash.....thrice......
    Battery
    Effin rotors and pads

  4. #4
    CelicaTech Supporter 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST has too many green lights. 90CelicaST's Avatar
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    I took this off by the battery. I thought it was the igniter.....s.......?.........but found that bolted to the engine bay/firewall in the back. I just kinda found it interesting looking. Not a clue what the hell it is or does though.
    Don't know if they told you on AT.net or not (too lazy to go check) but that's your resister box for the injectors. "A resistor box is nothing more than a simple device that steps down current between the ECU and fuel injectors."

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  5. #5
    Am I being detained officer? tuner4life is a name known to all tuner4life is a name known to all tuner4life is a name known to all tuner4life is a name known to all tuner4life is a name known to all tuner4life is a name known to all tuner4life's Avatar
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    Looks to be quite the project! Good luck with it. You will have something very special when you are done with it!

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  6. #6

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    Jeaaaaasssssuuuuuss brendan...????? you bought that hunk of scrap for that much????
    look at the under body decay! ugh!
    new rotors, pads, lines, possibly bearings. mando.
    empty the tranny of all fluid, and replace it with new fluid, add some lucas syncro mesh... for that awd tranny...

    before you start driving that thing.... id take the whole damn motor apart and friggin just clean it!!!!!! you gotta pull the oil pan off too man and check it's bearings crank/rod... or else your gonna get 200 miles outta it before you get a mean ass knock!...

    lucky for you i can drive to toysport and pick you up shit from the J at cost.....

    get that rustbucket cleaned up on the undies... AND PAINT EVERYTHING ON THE BOTTOM! STOP THE RUST!!!!

    then move out here and I will help yah re-overhaul that bitch rite...

    what did yah name that sucker? id call it the rooster! cause you arent carefull you ghonna see a rooster tail of smoke when you blow up that Rusty ASS 3sgte!

    and id give it a month or two before thats gonna be road-worthy!
    and about $1500...

    REPLACE THE WATER PUMP TOO!.. if that bitch sat for 4 years with coolant in it (the dumbest thing you can when storing a car...) then the seals in the wa wa pump are yucko... and you dont wanna find this out in VA, 300 miles from home......

    good luck boo.... take your matha-fuckin-time! the results are lot better that way!
    and FYI... dont run less than 91 octane in that bitch or you will fuck it up... jus like my jdm 91' 3sge 2.0, you put 89 octane in it your gonna hear weird noises, and its gonna bog when you hit the gas... ucky situation my bro....
    another FYI! the rear disc brakes dont close when you hit the e-brake, theres a small drum brake inside the rotor, see that rubber thing with the line ? thats where you adjust the e-brake... make sure your new rotors are exactly the same!
    Last edited by tekstep01; 06-16-2009 at 02:34 PM.
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

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    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

  7. #7

    Default

    http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true

    BUY YOUR SHIT HERE TO SAVE CASH NOW B-4 its all gone!!!!
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

  8. #8

    Default

    ^^^Already done brah. And you've def been in Cali for too long. This thing is a beaut even with the rust as far as PA cars go. Your so spoiled out there. And really the rust isn't that bad, the pics make it look horrible. I had some dude look at the pics then look at the car, and he was amazed how much cleaner it is in person, its just the disposable camera and shitty flash usage. And the only rooster tail your gonna be seeing is the metal one as your 3SGE spits out metal shavings trying to keep up with me on the da mountain.

  9. #9

    Default

    Well I got a battery for $10 at a salvage yard. Not the exact size, but looks like it will fit hopefully, I just need it to do some labor cranking while I'm tuning the engine and such, figured there's no point in buying a new battery then having it just do cranking and not much else.

    Buts that if I ever get there. I got some new gaskets from the dealer. 50 some dollars for the exhaust manifold gasket, the turbo oil gasket, and the two water/coolant gaskets. Special order for all three. Then they called me back, said they got them in, but the exhaust manifold gasket comes in two halves, and they only got one half, so they ordered the other one. Ok, so I go to pick them up the next day when the other half is in. And of course I have to pay for it. Apparently its $35 a half, not for the whole thing. So the guy says I'm gonna have to pay for the other half, but that'd make it a $70 exhaust manifold gasket, which is unheard of. He also said it's his fault making me think I was all paid up and then having to come and pay more, so he gave it to me at wholesale plus tax, so $20 for that side, $55 total. He also said if I ever need anything else for the build just to come back in and talk to him and he'll give it to me at wholesale to make up for it. So I got raped, but the guy was nice enough and hopefully he'll help me out again. Damn thats a long paragraph.

    So anyways went downstairs, finished cleaning up the turbo as I wanted and stuff. Anyways I was spinning the turbine for whatever reason, and heard it pinging/rubbing/hitting shit. Seems like there's next to no clearance on the intake side of the turbine. Less then the other two CT26 I have sitting on the table (Old one off the car, and the owner threw in a single entry CT26 with a cracked exhaust side by the waste gate, he was originally gonna try to hybrid them or some shit). So I spin it some more and mess around and stuff. Def is rubbing or pinging or hitting something. Doesn't seem to be all the time, if I'm lucky I can get some spins in with no noise, but its usually hitting a little. Seems to be very light, but still def hitting it. I took some videos of me spinning it, including from both sides. Also took a vid of the shaft play. If I try and press it against the wall while I'm spinning it, I can almost get it to the point where it will rub enough it won't spin.

    So I'm guessing I'm fucked, and this was a huge waste of time cleaning this thing up since I'll probably throw it on and it will destroy itself in a few seconds. But before I go cry myself to sleep in a corner I figured I'd post it up and see what you guys think. I never delt with turbos, so maybe they rub a little, or its cause it has no oil or idk. I'd guess it might be from the turbo falling off the work bench, I don't exactly remember it having that much shaft play when I got it, but I could be wrong.

    Not sure whats next though, I can't justify putting it back on just for the hell of it to see if it works anyways when there's a good chance of it being bad and spitting metal into bad places, and then having to take everything apart again to put a replacement on. Then again I put a decent amount of work into this, and would like to see some results. Haven't even got to drive the car yet. But idk, I can't exactly scrape together $600 to buy a new one, and I don't think I'm skilled enough to take them apart and mess with them much. I guess I could try getting it balanced, but I'd have to send it off and that's still a good 100 something dollars with shipping. And hell if I got that far I should just get a rebuild kit and do that at the same time, and since its also completely apart, I can just get the exhaust side cleaned by the parts cleaner, which kinda nullifies the hours of wire wheel grinding I did. So basically by the time this thing gets on the road summer is gonna be damn near over. Chingao.

    But just for the hell of it I bolted the turbo up to the newly cleaned exhaust manifold and elbow just to see how it fits and looks. Looks nice. I kinda like the dark semi reflective metal color the exhaust housing got on the turbo from the wire wheel via drill, just wish I coulda got all the little rust spots. But its good enough. Found a small crack in the twin entry exhaust gasket, not sure if its big enough to warrant getting a new one from the dealer. Also looks like its cracked on the flip side, but it could be a seam in the metal. But the other gasket is seamless on that side. :shrug:

    The replacement studs we got for the elbow side are also slightly shorter, and it looks like they may not cut it, since they leave a mm or 3 of open space on the top of the nut, and do not go all the way through. I got some pics, let me know what you guys think on that too. If not I can probably just get the studs off the old turbo, prob gonna be a pita, but do what you gotta do I guess. Also have pics of the gaskets and their p/ns just incase anyone might need them.

    Yeah........... :|

    Turbo Being Spun by Hand


    Turbo Being Spun by Hand from Exhaust Side


    Turbo Shaft Play


    The CT26 Single Entry Turbo




    Gaskets




    Cleaned up Turbo Pics








    Always another broken stud or bolt to deal with....


    Stud Comparison













    Cleaned Up Elbow




    What was I saying about broken studs?




    Cleaned Exhaust Manifold


    Cracked Twin Entry Exhaust Gasket






    The other gasket, looks good enough....





    Old Turbo Off of the Car





    Everything Bolted Together









  10. #10

    Default

    What been up Brendan? Seems like a lot of fun work. Good luck with that project. I have been doing some body work on my 91 gt and recently replaced the clutch. Always an ongoing project.
    91 Celica GT Coupe
    Knowledge builds confidence.
    Money, time and effort gets it done.
    Experience gets it done better and faster.

  11. #11

    Default

    boo what up from the hood??????
    gots me my new jdm 3sge 2.0
    you get this runninig yet no rooster tails?
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

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    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

  12. #12

    Default

    Hey guys, sorry been busy. Got it started with other failure, as you can read below. Good to hear you still keeping up on the coupe though PittsburghCeli, it seems this one will always been ongoing too lol. Just hope I can drive it some day.
    Anyways,

    I finished mostly all the engine work I had wanted to do. I got everything back together. It was extremely hard, I never imagined putting it back together would have been that hard. With new bolts for half the stuff none the less. Spent two hours on the turbo bracket alone. Replaced the Alt. belt, left the AC belt since it didn't seem to wanna budge when the bottom nut was loosened, and no way in hell was I getting to the top pivot nut. Also got a tiny peak at the top of the timing belt, it looks ok :shrug: , I know your supposed to replace those at whatever mileage (Can't seem to find it in the manual) it is, but hopefully it will hold for a little bit while I get it on the road, and then I'll make that my next big project, since it looks extremely hard to do.

    Anyways finally got everything back together at like 11 at night (minus midpipe and the cross member and related), cleaned some coolant hoses and air intake hoses while I was at with a little water and dish soap. Same for the A2A. Filled it with distilled and Mobil 1. $5 junk yard battery was too short, but I put some wood blocks under it and made it work. It did good, it cranked it for the 30 seconds or whatever it took to get started.

    So it started, then died about 20 seconds later. So I restarted it, and had to keep giving it gas to keep it alive. Oil light started to flutter, then came on solid. I figured maybe it was still working its way through the system. My friend states they hear something leaking. I decided to go take a look. Had my friend take over the throttle in the car so I could get out and look.

    I came around to the engine bay. Smoke effin everywhere. Maybe some burn off? I look down at the street. I'm standing in $30 worth of Mobil 1 oil. I tell my friend to cut the engine. Either they cut it or it stalled, one of the two. After some investigation the next morning, I find that the turbo oil hose has a nice half inch gap on the block side. Bolt is finger loose. I swear to god I tightened that thing. I remember having a shithard time with it to. But maybe I forgot or it wasn't torqued? Or perhaps the turbo refused to turn, and caused some huge back pressure?

    The oil hose did get gun decked though most of all out of the install. I left it on the car, cause I didn't have the 26mm or whatever shit it takes to get it off the block (still don't). When I put the turbo back in, it was real hard lining it up with all the bolts and being bolted back into the oil line first. Didn't help I didn't attached the oil hose to the oil pan until everything else was done. So I don't think it got broke, it probably got bent out of shape a little, but maybe just moved a little bit, nothing like a kink or anything. Idk, I'll take it off this time and use the other one that came with the turbo. That gasket probably did take a beating trying to keep on while putting the turbo in (Gasket pretty much goes in upside down as you lower the turbo if you think about it).

    So I decided to tighten said nut with one of the most ungodly extension towers for a socket the world has seen. Started tightening the other one as well (I had loosened it). When I was tightening the first one, I noticed it got tight, but could keep going, as it was then lifting the oil hose tight against the block. So I thought nothing of it when the second got a little tight, but keep turning. So it kept turning. Then it fucking snapped.

    So now my 'new' turbo has a broken oil pipe stud. I now get to basically redo everything I just got done doing. Months worth of work down the drain in the view of trying to get the car started. I figure it should be a lot faster this time since I won't really need a book, know where all the bolts are and have new ones in place and shit, but still a huge pain the in ass, and nice waste of $30 in oil. Once I get the turbo off again, I'll just see if I can get someone to weld a giant metal stick to it, since I've about had it with 'e-z outs' and all that shit, I've broken so many god damn drill bits and e-z outs and ez effin this and bolt remover that gahhhhhhhh.......yeah.

    Anyways get the broken stud out, try and get a new one in place, reassemble and hope it works. My major concern is how much oil leaked out. I can't even get a reading on the oil dipstick right now. I was thinking of loosening the oil drain pain plug to see how much if any is in there. My concern obviously is that the engine more or less seized from a lack of oil before it stalled or got turned off. Perhaps that's why it wouldn't hold idle in the first place (I have yet to replace the plugs and stuff, but it would hold idle before, and the AFM gate is good, hopefully its a separate problem). Or I may just add another 4qts and see if it will run cause if its seized its seized anyways.

    If the turbo stud replace fails, then I emailed Gpop shop. They can fix it for $25 a stud roughly. May just have them rebuild the damn thing while they have it. Can also get some monies for those other two cores I have. Did wanna mess with them a little. Or if not that, then klue has some up for sale, had my eye on a JDM CT26. We shall see.

    It did start though. Sounded beast with nothing on it after the cat lol. Did make a spool up/blow off kinda sound half way through though, which makes me wonder if that was the turbo spooling up, which blew that gasket. Or if that was just the gasket blowing out (I'm not sure if it was leaking from the start or not). Or if they're unrelated. I've never had a turboed car so I don't really know what I'm hearing or listening for. Anyways I'll throw some pics up.

    Some are old of the fuel filter replacement, which was harrowing, since it wouldn't go on right, I thought I stripped the threads. Fairly easy replacement when you do it right though. Took off the charc canister. Didn't have compressed air so held up the vac port to the valve stem old car tire I had laying around and depressed the bleed valve. I smelt gas, so it worked somewhat. I found if you just lay the fuel filter on the bottom fuel line, get it started, then you can just spin it on and get that on in about 10 seconds flat, rather then cranking at the nut on the bottom for an hour. (Really I was down there for an hour between taking it off and putting it). Just tighten it up at the end. Bracket and top nut goes on easy enough.

    One important thing I need help with is I found two mystery wires coming from the firewall by the fuel filter. They almost look like radio wires or something. They reach almost all the way to the battery. No fittings on the end of them, they're just cut/stripped. Pretty colors. Have a photo of them and also of where they come out of the wall. Any guesses? Also found a wire form the block which looks like a simple ground wire, couldn't remember where it came from, so just attached to a bolt that made good contact with the frame. I'm assuming it doesn't matter as long as its grounded somewhere.

    Lastly, I IDed the mystery bolts and the bolts for one of the heat shields :wink:



    Aftermarket is never as good as OEM, but its cheaper




    Don't use a McDonald's salad bowl to store gas. Gasoline will pwn it.


    Broken Turbo Stud w/oil hose still on and still on car




    Some other random pics










    Mystery Wires


    Mystery Wires Source

  13. #13
    CelicaTech Supporter Trance4c is a splendid one to behold Trance4c is a splendid one to behold Trance4c is a splendid one to behold Trance4c is a splendid one to behold Trance4c is a splendid one to behold Trance4c is a splendid one to behold Trance4c is a splendid one to behold Trance4c is a splendid one to behold
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    While your in there.. take the time to have the exhaust manifold resurfaced where it mates to the head. Those warp a lot of the time quite a bit. It is just one more small thing for a small price for piece of mind and can make a big difference and result in less headache afterward.

    Dunno if that had been brought up, I looked through the thread but didn't see anything. Lots of work to go, keep at it!

  14. #14

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    damn shame that bolt broke... i HATE THAT SHIT!
    if you seized your block your outta luck man, i just sold a 3s gte second gen-shortblock back to toysport, for a discount on the new one... last longblock they had of the 3sge 2.0
    yupperz, hey boo you need anything for your engine i got a ton of crap thats cross-platform.
    the wires you found, are most likely from an old aftermarket oilpressure gauge, or something.
    the black/yellow wire looks suspiciously like a VSV for tvis.. where do they go on the cab side???
    oh and just turn the motor over a few times with the ignition UNHOOKED!, so you can build oilpressure *BEFORE* lightin it up next time boo, that way you can check for leaks without blowin 4 quarts of crude, and it gives the cams/bottom end bearings a chance to get slippy!

    the ground wires are very important, theres three main ones
    1.alt bracket to right hand strut tower
    2. chassie/battery to trans
    3. fuel injector ground on back of the intake
    go buy a groundwire kit for twenty bucks on wills acura there was a 1.2 volt increase on the injectors and on the charge from the alt. easy way to get a good spark and increase the amount of fuel avalible to burn.
    if you need any parts hit me up.... and whatch gonna do with the old turbo? is it salvageable?
    i got a turbo bottom end, and im thinkn of boost for the next step as i can work off the cost at toysport tearing down blocks for shipping....and working on the website.

    oh i got my sponsership stickers finally from the sport..... my shits looking good excecpt the bondo work i did learnin how to fill in the dents from that ass*)@3 who backed into my car and ran.

    if you can turn the motor over with a 3/4 socket on the harmonic balancer, then its not seized. if it is seazed try to back it up really slowly, if it comes loose you just need new bearings, if it doesnt, you are f-ed! the piston is out of round from detonation or a ring dug it.... and its a bitch to re-sleave a 3s also about $500 you dont wanna spend when you gotta buy 91 only for it... like my engine yours wont like 89, or 87 and can cause knock/failure... ekkk, my jdm motor dont even like 91 for cryin outloud...
    well goodluck and dont snap anymore bolts!
    and take your time... lol!
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

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    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

  15. #15

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    raise this thread from the dead! i almost thought you must have seized, bc u havent posted nada! for like 2 weeks... but im assuming its training or something...
    get back to us mahhn
    hey check out the west coast meet! its halarious! no one showed but we still rocked it!!!! one car show! lol!!!!!
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

  16. #16

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    Just a quick update, I was away on training for some time. Anyways spent all friggin day (like 11 hours) on the car today. Sucked hardcore, was raining for a good part of it, and wasn't having much luck in the beginning with things. But I had a creeper and a day off from work so I made it pay off. Got the turbo taken off, replaced the stud from one of the old turbos, bought new nuts and lock washers, and got everything put back together.

    Clutch safety switch was being retarded for a bit, but did finally get it to crank. Since it ussually has to crank for a few seconds to start anyways, decided this time to actually go out and check for any leaks while I let the starter cool down. Smelled oil, but turns out I just left the damn fill cap off, as well as some other odds and ends I missed in a rush to clean up in poorly lit darkness.

    Anyways, no oil leaks, but the fuel line was leaking pretty damn good at the fuel filter inlet side. Decided to tighten that up, and go try and start it. (Thing leaks for awhile too after you stop the engine, dammmmnnnnn). Battery started to die so I decided I'd just go check the fuel leak again and worry about starting tomorrow. Unfortunately it was still leaking. It was considerably less then before I tightened it, but still too much to really drive or run none the less. The nut seemed to be tightened all the way as far as it will go as well, so not sure what to do. I did have a lot of trouble getting that bolt on, maybe the threads went or something. I'll check the BGB and see if maybe it has some super high torque setting or something, but short of that, guess I'll take it apart and see what see. Sucks that I gotta do it with the engine back together.....

    So not running, but definitely close. Right before the battery gave out it gave a nice little growl, and seemed to be catching pretty good, so Im not too worried about it not starting. Fix this fuel leak, find and replace that broken brake line, patch the exhaust, and get the rotors and pads, and she should be on the road, hopefully by next Monday. And I actually have the money for parts and insurance and stuff this time too.

  17. #17

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    Well the car runs now. Got the fuel line tightened up, just took it off and retightened it again, and it doesn't leak, the other set of washers still don't fit it though, so the bottom of the fuel filter doesn't have washers, I'm assuming it supposed to be like that though. But it doesn't leak, I'm happy.

    The turbo seems to smoke a little sometimes in the middle, just on the exhaust side. I thought I was screwed, then it doesn't do it, then it does, but even when it does, seems to go away when it gets up to temp.

    Found some small other issues, small coolant leak, just gotta tighten up the clamp, tightened some bolts on the turbo elbow to stop an exhaust leak, ect. The A/C doesn't work though. I know it almost def needs charged, but the condenser fan doesn't even turns on, I checked the fuse/resister pack thingys, but can tell if they're blown or not. Idk about that one....

    Boost gauge doesn't seem to work, or I have a vac leak, or it rests at vac when I'm not driving, I know you can't get much boost at idle, we'll have to see when I drive. Gauge goes up to neutral when I turn the key on, then goes back down to pure vac. Maybe those two mystery wires?

    Anyways I ordered the pads and rotors today. The ebrake cable snapped on me, I gave it a little tug and heard a nice thwack and the handle has no resistance now. Idiot light still shows the brakes on though....I have yet to get under it and look at it. Annoying though cause now I can't move it even though it runs fine, plus I can't seem to find anyone who carries the cable.

    So hopefully get the pads and rotors on, fix the brake line and ebrake cable, and then sunny times......

  18. #18

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    Anyways, got the engine all running smoothly and taken care of for the most part. Now I moved onto brakes, supposedly the last step before she's on the road.

    My parts store guy couldn't find any rear rotors for a decent price, save for some Beck/Arnley ones, which he wasn't sure if they were Chinese crap or not, so we didn't order any. So I went on rockauto and bought to rear raybestos for $40ish. I wanted to get new/refurbed calipers for atleast the rear, since mine are rusted to hell and appear to be seized anyways. But couldn't find those for under $100 a piece, so I bought a basic refurb kit for the seals and stuff for $7 or something for front and rear, we'll see how well that works. Bought an ebrake cable also (Found the one on the car snapped at the single line from the handle.) Forgot to get bleeder screws

    So the parts won't be in till atleast next week, so just gonna slowly work on fixing that front brake line and do the front rotors and pads (got the pads from Toyota), and wait for the rears. Car is sitting on the wheels which are on the car right now without any rotors on it. Seems to work fine, just had to take an extra second to help line up the lugs. Hopefully its ok to do that lol.

    But thats all for now. I'll get some pics of all the brake stuff and put it up when I get that all done. Hopefully it will be done soon (Famous last words I'm starting to quickly learn lol)

    Oh and does anyone have any recommendations what to grease/lube the power antenna up with? I'm wondering if some dielectric grease or whatever would work better, never really delt with power antennas. Mine gets stuck at a few points going up and down. Its getting harder to get it to fully deploy and contract, even when I put a good bit of force into helping it, it wasn't so bad when I first got it. The white rubber seal is also pretty shitty, anyone know where to get one of those? Its letting a little bit of water and stuff down there which ain't helping much. Thanks guys.
    Last edited by Fox 21 Alpha; 08-09-2009 at 03:16 PM.

  19. #19

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    I used graphite for door locks to lube my power antenna. My rear fender rusted out a bit at the mud flap screws because of leaks in my antenna. The water leaks in and has nowhere to go so about a gallon or more can just sit above the mud flap.

    Use gasket sealant (rtv silicone) to seal the antenna and or the side of the spoiler if you remove it.

    Antennas are $20 at autozone. They come with the antenna and a zipper inside them that you feed down into the hole and then shut the car off to pull the antenna zipper down. You can get one with the antenna & motor off ebay for $10.
    91 Celica GT Coupe
    Knowledge builds confidence.
    Money, time and effort gets it done.
    Experience gets it done better and faster.

  20. #20

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    Well the car runs pretty damn good, and got the brakes all finished, save for the master cylinder. Guess its been awhile, so to make a long story short(er)...

    Finished the pads and rotors after a lot of bs and issues with pistons and seals and crap, etc etc....

    Went to bleed them and the rusted ass brake lines under the car burst and threw fluid everywhere....

    So we spliced in some new line from basically the start of the plastic rock guard cover all the way back until where it ends. Also spliced in new 1/4in line for that fuel tank vacuum return line or whatever it is (Not the main fuel line). The 1/4 inch wouldn't hold pressure at all, so after some waterworks with fuel we borrowed a double flare tool and got it to work. All the unions took a massive amount of tightening to stop all the leaks, but they work. We'll do the fuel line sometime in the very near future to get it done. The plastic guard is off still, we're (as me and my dad whose leading the brake line repairing part of this car) going to get under there and try and get them spaced out good and stop the rubbing, get the rest of the clamps on by some miracle (Bending brake lines always looks so easy, but always come out like crap lol).

    So we bleed the brakes, but the peddle for the most part still goes to the floor. The car stops alright, not shitty, but not skidding or anything amazing. Trying to be nice and let the new pads and rotors settle in and get along. So with the brake peddle making weird noise, no leaking fluid, no added air in the system, and a peddle that still floors unless you pump it, pretty sure the master cylinder is gone, so ordering a new one tomorrow morning, and hopefully have it here by the weekend. Should be the *last* "major" work before I start DDing it.

    While it would have been nice to roll out for the test drive around the block in a brand new paint job with all new parts and decals and Jordana Brewster in the passenger seat (Vin Diesel is an alright dude but c'mon....) in some nice Cali sun, instead me and my started up the street at 11'oclock at night listening to some unknown brake scraping noise and the smell of something burning in the engine bay (turbo, old oil, insulation on the exhaust manifold, who knows), and a little unknown shudder in second gear (as fast as we got, could be shitty tires, loose lug nuts, even though they were tight, the car not being driven since before some kid whose in kindergarden right now was born, idk).

    So it runs, it drives. Just not safely enough for anything more then a test run around the block or something. Might take it down to the car wash or something, but I think I'm running on the back up piston in the M/C or something, and while the ebrake semi works, the cables to the wheels are rusted and prob gonna go if I really yank it, so I'll wait for any major driving after the M/C.

    I find it funny as before I started working on it tonight I started thinking how this thing prob isn't gonna be running for a long time, and I should stop holding my breath and getting disappointed. The irony sometimes I swear....


    I also have some touch up paint and a used turbo timer coming in the mail (I'm always late, so never would have time to idle the car, so figure this will hold me over for awhile). I also have literally $1.12 to my name.




    P.S. The car has been christened "Mia". I have yet to do an official ceremony or anything, I'm so sure about breaking a bottle of champagne on the front bumper, so I'm open to ideas....

  21. #21

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    what you really gotta do to christen it is drive it up a mountain, like we did that one night.. after i fixed the HG!!!! in gretch! :Ban1:
    .lol, then pop the champaign all over the hood, the cap the top of the bottle and shake it and spray it all over her thus christening mia!
    jus like ol' gretchen over here! (who by the way is tarped and sitting :sm: )

    but it still runs and im waiting for some track time....!!!!
    what up you pass all your tests dude?
    mom wants to know call her....
    and yeah things are coool
    Last edited by tekstep01; 09-10-2009 at 07:26 PM.
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

  22. #22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tekstep01
    what you really gotta do to christen it is drive it up a mountain, like we did that one night.. after i fixed the HG!!!! in gretch! :Ban1:
    .lol, then pop the champaign all over the hood, the cap the top of the bottle and shake it and spray it all over her thus christening mia!
    jus like ol' gretchen over here! (who by the way is tarped and sitting :sm: )

    but it still runs and im waiting for some track time....!!!!
    what up you pass all your tests dude?
    mom wants to know call her....
    and yeah things are coool
    hey,tekstep01,
    sorry, off topic, but did i just hear you say track time?? have you heard of adams track? time attack tuesday? maybe you could be the first to rock a celica on the track man... over in alltrac.net in the pac sw forum, we have been trying to get a meet going on at adams track. so far, the turn out wasn't that great but did meet a lot of kool toyota heads out there.

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  23. #23

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    whaaaa where at dude????? seriously WHEREER?
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

  24. #24

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    in riverside, ca. off the 60 freeway, right before you hit 215.
    heres there flyer on craigslist.
    http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/1368196620.html

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  25. #25

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    BOO! BUMP FOR UPDATED PIKS>>> WHERES THE VIDEOS OF YOUR FIRST START MAN.... get to it!
    :Ban1: :Ban1: :Ban1: :Ban1:
    ~-=DEATH BY SNOOCH SNOOCH ! ! !=-~
    : BEWARE OF CRAZY ROMANIANS :

    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

    TRACK STATS AS OF 3-14-10:
    0-60; 6.45sec/ Quarter mile:14.7 @ 126.7mph, uti dyno run: 226bhp 200-/+Whp @ 6300rpm
    From a*almost STOCK JDM 3sGE, with a USDM ECU first gen, COLD AIR,oversized injectors, and a cracked Cherrybomb for that growl (lol!)
    Superstreet cover? -FAIL!!!!

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