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Thread: Clutch Write-Up

  1. #1
    I'll be the little spoon KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey's Avatar
    KoreanJoey has been to an annual Dragon Meet! KoreanJoey has donated to the forums! KoreanJoey helped get Play's clutch job done. KoreanJoey helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. KoreanJoey helped bring Chaos back to the Dragon

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    Default Clutch Write-Up

    So a member emailed me asking for a write up... so I wrote one up... *copy of the email reply*



    THIS IS JUST A GUIDE, NEITHER I OR CELICATECH.COM WILL BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE, DEATH OR INJURY TO YOURSELF OR YOUR VEHICLE

    Alright so this is off of memory so bear with me as I canít remember every single nut and bolt.
    This write up is based off of doing this on the ground without an engine hoist or a transmission jack.
    DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FOLLOW THIS WRITE-UP IF YOU ARE NOT PHYSICALLY ABLE.
    DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FOLLOW THIS WRITE-UP UNLESS YOU HAVE A GENERAL IDEA OF HOW TIGHT TO SET YOUR BOLTS AND NUTS. Aside from critical items I will not bother.


    I like doing this first part while the car is on the ground where itís easier to work on.

    Remove battery (10mm bolts for bracket and 8mm for terminals, make sure you disconnect the air temp sensor and anything else connected to the airbox)
    Remove cruise control actuator (if you have one on the drivers side of the engine bay)
    Remove intake and airbox (Believe all 10mm for clamps and also the bolts that are inside the airbox)
    Detach clutch slave cylinder from transmission (believe on 10mm for a bracket on the front of the trans, a 12mm for the top of the trans and 2 12mm bolts for the slave cylinder itself) do NOT disconnect the slave cylinder hardline from the softline unless you want to bleed the clutch. Just move it up and out of the way.
    Remove starter (10 or 12mm for the starter wire and 14mm bolts for that attach the starter to the trans, remember to disconnect the starter signal wire)
    Disconnect speedo cable (you can disconnect it from the top and leave it with the trans or the bottom and leave it with the car, if you disconnect it from the top check to see if youíve got a cruise control sender down near the trans, in line with the speedo cable, if you do, unplug it. If you take it off from the top try to remember how the speedo cable routed up) Personally I like removing it from the top, trying to get it back on from the bottom can be a serious pain.
    Disconnect shifter cables (two large C clips attach the cables to the trans and two clips and two washers; one for each linkage; connect the cables to the linkage)
    Disconnect reverse switch (just a clip on the top of the motor)
    Remove ground wire from transmission (believe itís a 14mm on the top of the trans)

    While youíve got easier access you might as well remove the bolts holding the trans on up top.
    There should be 2 or 3 17mm bolts on going along the top of the transmission and one or two bolts going on the front of the transmission(you may have to unclip the wire harness from the brackets in order to get to the bolts)

    I think that takes care of everything on the top of the trans. Now itís time to get your hands dirty.

    Jack up the car as far as you can. More room = more better
    Get two jackstands to hold up the car (one on either side, either at the pinch points near the sides of the car or at the frame behind the swaybar brackets)
    Drain transmission fluid (24mm nut on the side of the trans, fill plug is also 24mm nut on the front of the trans, take off fill plug first in case you round it off)

    Axles, be careful removing and installing them, you donít want to damage the axle seals.
    Take off the wheels (Factory lug nuts are 21mm)
    On both sides of the car remove axle nuts (a cotter pin and a nut on both sides, either a 30mm for factory nuts and some aftermarket nuts are 32mms)
    Remove lower ball joint flanges (2 12 or 14mm nuts and a 12 or 14mm bolt on either side)
    Remove ball joint flange from lower control arm (use a prybar on the outward side of the flange to push the flange up and the control arm down in order to detach the flange and the control arm)
    Remove axle from spindle (pull the spindle back while pushing forward on the axle, if you need more to push the axle out of the spindle use ONLY a brass hammer or a wide, blunt punch and a hammer. Make sure you do not flatten any part of the axle or itís threads)
    Remove passenger side CV axle (two 12 or 14mm bolts connect the carrier bearing flange to the motor on the passenger side cv axle)
    Remove drivers side CV axle (using a prybar pry on the axle against the trans, be careful not to pry on the axle seal, itís a bit of a pain in the ass but if you keep moving it around you will eventually get it off)
    Remove the crossmember that goes from side to side underneath the motor (2 19mm bolts and 1 19mm nut on either side)

    Now youíve disconnected everything from the trans except for the motor and the chassis itself.
    Remove the crossmember that runs from side to side (2 19mm bolts and one 19mm nut on either side of the crossmember)
    Detach motor mounts from brackets (a 17mm bolt on the back and a 17mm bolt going into a 17mm nut on the front)
    Remove forward to rear crossmember (2 14mm bolts both front and back)

    Now youíve got one trans mount on the drivers side and one engine mount on the passenger side holding up the motor and trans, so be careful. Go slow.
    Use a jack on the far end of the transmission to release the tension on the trans mount.
    Remove trans mount from bracket (One 17mm bolt)
    Remove trans mount from mounting bracket on trans (2 14mm bolts on the firewall side (top) and 2 14mm bolts on the core support side (bottom)
    Remove mounting bracket from trans (3 14 or 17mm bolts)

    Get a jackstand and a 2x4 and place it under the oil pan. Try to position it so that the trans is at somewhat of a downward slope. SLOWLY lower the jack that youíve been using to support the trans and motor till all of the weight is supported by the jackstand.
    If you have it, remove the drivers side axle shield probably some 12mm bolts (I canít remember if the S53 had one or not). It can get in your way otherwise.
    Remove all the bolts holding the trans to the motor that are underneath the car (some 17mm bolts, some 14mm bolts and at least one 12mm bolt)

    Now the trans is held on by only the dowel pins.
    DO NOT DO THIS NEXT STEP IF YOU ARE NOT PHYSICALLY ABLE, THE S53 TRANSMISSION WEIGHTS SOMEWHERE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF 70-90LBS!

    Get directly under the car and start wiggling it off the dowel pins and clutch. (NOTE: while reversing this write up for the installation be sure not to rest the weight of the transmission on the clutch disk or pressure plate teeth, this can cause clutch damage or failure)

    Hopefully you listened about getting the car up as high as you can so that you can get the transmission off your chest and onto the floor.

    Go grab a beer, take a breather.

    Remove the pressure bolts (believe there are 6 12mm bolts)
    Pry off the pressure plate and clutch disk (beware not to be directly under the clutch as it will probably be full of nasty clutch dust)
    Remove the flywheel (8 17mm bolts hold the flywheel on)

    Either send the flywheel off to a machine shop in order to get it resurfaced OR buy a replacement flywheel. (Note: If you have a machine shop resurface the flywheel also have them check that the dowel pins are securely in place.

    While youíve got the flywheel off you might as well replace your rear main seal. Believe me, now is the time, otherwise youíll have to do this all over again when it does fail, oh and itíll take out your clutch as well.
    To replace the rear main, first youíll have to remove it, for this you can just use a screwdriver, or if you have one, a seal puller. If youíre using a screwdriver push the screwdriver in next to the crankshaft and push away from the crankshaft while pulling the seal out.

    For install first lubricate the seal with some fresh oil or engine assembly lube. Get one side of the seal over the crankshaft while gently tapping around the seal with a small hammer, be very careful to not roll over the inside lip of the seal. This can be a pain to get the seal in as youíve got to be gentle but firm with tapping the seal in, do not force the seal in. When itís in the seal should be level with the lowest point of the outer seal housing, NOT bottomed out all the way to the block.

    I will only be covering part of the installation procedure as most of it will just be a reversal of the removal.
    Install the flywheel. Get some FIPG (form in place gasket) and put just a small dab on each of the flywheel bolts (Iím not sure on the 5SFE but the holes for the flywheel bolts pass all the way through the end of the crank, if this is not the case, use locktite) to seal the flywheel bolts and also have some locking attributes as well. Torque down the flywheel bolts in a star pattern to 65ft.lbs. Liberally spray down the flywheel with brake clean, remember you canít have any grease or oil or really anything on the flywheel.

    Using a clutch alignment tool, or a tight fitting socket, align the clutch to the flywheel. It probably wonít hold itself up so youíll have to hold it while you install the pressure plate. Remember, on the S53 clutch disk it should be facing springs away from the motor.

    Place the pressure plate over the clutch disk onto the dowel pins.

    Torque down the pressure plate bolts in a star pattern to 14ft.lbs while holding the clutch disk in alignment.

    Prep the transmission.
    Hopefully youíve got a new throw out bearing with all of your other clutch parts, if not, go get one. I highly recommend a Toyota OEM throw out bearing as I have heard many people having problems with aftermarket units.

    Clean up the bellhousing if there is excessive clutch dust or if there is any oil from a leaking rear main seal. Clean the input shaft, the clutch fork and clutch fork ball. Apply very light amounts of high temp moly based grease to input shaft, where the throw out bearing sits on the clutch fork, the detent ball where the clutch fork sits in the transmission and the clutch fork where the slave cylinder sits in the clutch fork. Be very careful about how much grease you apply as you donít want your clutch disk getting contaminated while everything is spinning at high RPMs.

    Install the transmission, itís easier to do with two people, one person below supporting the transmission and one person above guiding the input shaft into the clutch disk and onto the dowel pins. Remember not to let the weight of the transmission rest on the clutch disk or pressure plate teeth.

    If you haven't already, go grab another beer and take another breather.

    You should have an idea how to get it back togetherÖ the only parts I want to add are:
    1: Axles, passenger side is fairly easy, drivers side can be a bit more of a pain. Again one of those instances where two people make it easier. Before attempting to install the drivers side axle make sure the splines are absolutely clear of any debris, especially UNDER the C clip. Adjust the clip so that the open end is on the bottom side of the axle, it will make the compression of the C clip easier. Guide the axle into the trans. Make sure the axle splines are matted to the trans. Try to get the axle as straight as you can (helps to have someone holding the spindle/strut out of the way) and just ram it in. If that doesnít work you can try to put the axle into the spindle and use the weight of the spindle AND axle to try and cram the axle back in.
    2: Axle nuts, critical torque part! You donít want the wheel bearing undertorqued or youíll cause faster wear and play at the wheels/tires, possibly lose your wheel altogether. Toyota recommends 137ft.lbs.

    UmÖ I think thatís it.

    Joey
    PS: Iíll let you know if I forgot anything.
    Last edited by KoreanJoey; 01-18-2009 at 06:38 AM.

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    Originally Posted by MCcelica
    Joey wins this thread.

  2. #2

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    Thanks for the great write up joey! I vote definite sticky!
    -2006 Nissan Sentra SE-R
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  3. #3
    I'll be the little spoon KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey's Avatar
    KoreanJoey has been to an annual Dragon Meet! KoreanJoey has donated to the forums! KoreanJoey helped get Play's clutch job done. KoreanJoey helped Azzy get to The Dragon in 2009. KoreanJoey helped bring Chaos back to the Dragon

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    Default

    Edited for more emphasis on beer.

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    Originally Posted by MCcelica
    Joey wins this thread.

  4. #4

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    Sticky pending photos. (if possible)
    - Mario
    - Shadow's Army - 5 star General -

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    Questions?

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  5. #5

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    So I got the top of the transmission work done in a little over 3 hours, taking my time, trying not to break or lose anything. This write up seems to be right on so far.

    Those shift linkage clips were a biatch until I figured out the right tool to use, which was a pry bar for taking nails out of wood and doing the front most one first, then it was cake. I did manage to lose one to the black abyss behind the engine but I am sure I will find it later when I am under the car and have a better view with the tranny out.

    Tomorrow I will learn how to take the axles out and actually buy parts. Clutch set, flywheel, rear main seal and gear oil.

    Also I think I have a good plan for a home made tranny jack. I have a low thick metal box frame with wheels on it for moving heavy objects and 2 factory jacks which also have low clearance. I think am going to bolt the jacks to the frame and attach something to the top of the jacks to support the tranny. I will also use 2 ratcheted tie downs wrapped around the tranny attached to the jacks somehow, maybe just wrap the tie downs around the wheeled frame. We'll see. Might have to just bench press it.

    I will try post pictures soon and there should be many with all this work.
    91 Celica GT Coupe
    Knowledge builds confidence.
    Money, time and effort gets it done.
    Experience gets it done better and faster.

  6. #6
    I'll be the little spoon KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey has a reputation beyond repute KoreanJoey's Avatar
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    Default

    Yeah I just bench press it. It's not that bad so long as you've gotten the car up far enough that you can roll the trans off your chest. If not it kind of sucks trying to get the trans to stay in the engine compartment while you try to slink you way out the side.

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    Originally Posted by MCcelica
    Joey wins this thread.

  7. #7

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    Got parts, got the axles off and the side to side crossmember. Had to get axle nuts loosened by a garage because my impact wrench was too wimpy (not sure if it's 271 or 375ft/pounds on my gun) and the 24inch breaker bar broke on those dam nuts. The garage loosened them for $10.

    I am now basically ready to drop the tranny, but I still need to get the front to rear crossmember off and support the engine and tranny with jacks, but I don't have confidence that I can bench press that mutha. It looks like a very heavy hunk of metal and laying under there with a jack on one end and bench pressing the other while trying to wiggle/slide the tranny off does not seem appealing, right now. :ohyeah:
    I am waiting to see if my friend can borrow a tranny jack from work, otherwise I might try my homemade tranny jack idea but it's hard guessing the center of gravity, I mean it looks heavier toward the engine side so I will put the stock jack there on a heavy wheeled metal platform with a ratched tie down nylon strap further out towards the end of the tranny, otherwise rent a tranny jack for like $30/4 hours.
    91 Celica GT Coupe
    Knowledge builds confidence.
    Money, time and effort gets it done.
    Experience gets it done better and faster.

  8. #8

    Default

    my trans on my gts was hung, iused a prybar between the motor and trans and moved it a lil on each side till i was able to wiggle it.
    94 camry base 5speed, oil pump exploded
    87 yota truck, it runs, it's in beater phase but it's been mobile.
    85 celica gt-s @311k...22RTE will 2016 be the year Joe fixes the 3rd gen
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  9. #9

    Default Clutch pictures

    Tools needed:
    Main tools used were the short and long sockets with extensions, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 and 30mm.
    A tire iron pry bar came in handy many times along with a nail pulling pry bar.
    One should also own a good impact gun with the highest ft/lbs of torque one can afford. I had trouble getting my driveaxle nuts off (32mm) and had to have a garage loosen them with a 1000ft/lbs impact gun. My gun only has 375ft/lbs. With the car on the ground and the center caps punched out, I broke a 24 inch breaker bar on the driveaxle nuts so make sure you can get them loose before beginning.
    I got the tranny up and down with some degree of brute strength each time, thanks to a couple friends. Next time I would rent a tranny jack or buy a motorcycle jack for $100 from autozone for sure. The motorcyle jack looks like it would work great for lowering and raising the tranny and the real tranny jacks are like at least $300.
    Another tool used a lot were the jacks and jack stands, the more the better and it would be nice if they didn't make you use a lot of effort. I mean my bottle jack is old and the spinner is lost so I had to twist a pry bar anytime I wanted to use it which can wear on you. I used 4 jack stands to support the car at the pinch points where the jack normally goes and 3 other jacks to support the engine and tranny. I also used blocks of wood between all jacks and stands. Bottle jacks are nice to have because the can push much higher than my normal hydraulic jack. I put a big old rotor under the bottle jack and can lift the car up at least to the top rung of the jack stands, but I only lifted it to the second to the top rung on the jack stands and used another pair behind them jic for safety. Then used other jacks to play with the engine and tranny.
    Don't forget a torque wrench!
    100 pairs of rubber gloves, a fresh tub of hand cleaner and a finger nail brush are also nice to have.

    Parts:
    Clutch set matched = pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearing, plus an alignment tool. The alignment tool holds the clutch disc in the center of the pressure plate so it doesn't get pinched while tightening the pressure plate.

    Flywheel
    Rear main seal

    While yinzer at it getta setta new crossmember bushings and at least front and rear motor mounts, plus new front suspension components if needed n@.

    Bearing grease
    Gear oil - at least 3 quarts of 75w-90 royal purple is way smoother shifting than moble1.
    8 cans of brake cleaner
    rags or paper towels
    Die electric grease for the battery terminals
    Thread lock - locktite or gasket sealer (no gaskets involved in project)
    Good lighting - I use a head lamp from autozone with 2 leds lights that make a spotlight. Great hands free light exactly where you want and the batteries last forever. I love that thing.
    One man bleeder kit
    Plenty of pb blaster, crc freeze off and liquid wrench, get them all!
    Don't forget the beer food and women of course. (notice they are list under parts instead of tools needed, go figure)

    All the parts came off the top of the tranny just fine and I was left with a little pile of parts. The toughest thing to get off the top of the tranny for me were the clips for the shift lever cables until I used the nail pulling pry bar and did the closest one first. Be careful not to lose a clip behind the engine like me because you need that to run. I salvaged one from the local pick a part and found a freshly killed celica just my year which I need to revisit for some other small parts.

    I screwed in all of the bolts back in that could be screwed in without interfering with the tranny removal so I would not lose them.


    Then came time to get under the car and remove more bolts holding the tranny to the engine. I just layed the bolts out deeper under the car in some kind of order so it would make it a little easier putting them back in, but you can label 2 pieces of tape with the same number and put one on the bolt and the other on the hole so things don't get mixed up, but it wasn't that hard to know where all of the bolts went, when putting it back together. Also drain the manual transaxle fluid (gear oil) from the tranny. I drained it twice or again right before removal.

    Then the drive axles needed to come out, by removing the drive axle nut and then the ball joint bolts. After the 3 ball joint bolts and nut are off, you need to pry the control arm off the ball joint bolts. Then try to twist and pull suspension off the axle, while pushing the axle toward the tranny. If the axle is stuck to the wheel bearing casing, tap the drive axle with something soft like a brass punch or wood while the suspension is pulled away or maybe try prying. The axle basically just slid off at the wheel and at the tranny it had to be pryed a little but then it slid right out after over coming what seemed like suction to the tranny, just don't pull on the cv joints. The passenger side needed a couple extra bolts removed for the center drive axle to come out with it. You can see where the drivers side drive axle came out of the tranny. I put ratcheted tie down straps through the 3 tranny mounts to try to hold it on the one mount while lowering it with a jack on the other side, but that really didn't work so I had to bench it down with someone guiding from above. One strap will hold it from falling to the ground while prying and pulling it off, but you just have to bench it or buy a cheaper nice tranny jack from harbor freight for like $80 after shopping around, that is probably the best bet.


    With both drive axles out, it was time for the side to side crossmember to come off.


    Then I supported the engine and tranny with jacks and removed the front to back crossmember.


    There is a electrical connection that needs disconnected after the crossmembers are removed which is connected next to the speedometer cable. Here is a picture of the speedometer cable disconnected at the top, but it is still connected at the bottom along with an electrical connection. Be careful when dropping the tranny because the speedo cable has to weave a little to drop with the tranny.


    Now the tranny and engine are supported by only 2 mounts after the front to back crossmember is removed. The tranny is connected to the engine and the tranny is held up by 3 mounts, 2 of which are on the front to back crossmember and it is removed in the picture below.


    The last tranny mount on the drivers side had to be completely removed.





    Then with the engine and tranny supported with jacks, I pryed and pulled on the tranny to get it off the engine. You have to lower the engine and tranny on a "downhill" so the tranny will slide off. It will pry apart like an egg and drop off the dow pins, but still will be stuck a little on the center shaft, then another pull and it should be clear. I used 2 jacks with 2x4s to hold the engine under the oil pan, with one on the other side of the exhaust.
    You can see the flywheel teeth and one of the dow pins in the picture as the tranny is about 1/2 inch off the engine.


    Then I pryed it the rest of the way off and lowered it. You also can get a good grip on the starter hole to curl it down, just make sure your elbow is resting on the battery holder and not the radiator, along with someone lowering the jack from below. The regular jack from below is basically worthless without the straps and someone curling it because it's going to tilt and fall so build wood up around the jack to catch the tranny or work with the straps to lower it and give it a pivot point while curling it and supporting it so it doesn't tilt the jack. Remember to put the bolt back in the tranny mount so the straps will work. Heavier gloves are a good idea and a thick shirt because this thing weighs every bit of 90lbs and what the disclaimer said in the first post. Always thinking safety! Rent a real tranny jack please.

    ^That thing is dirty inside and out! The clutch fork is black with grease or clutch dust and the release bearing is rusty!

    The clutch still attached to the engine.




    Then remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Then remove the flywheel. Pry the rear main seal out and take off the release bearing.

    Cleaned with brake cleaner.






    Now you are halfway done, but it's quicker putting it back together which I did in one night after the tranny was dropped.

    I cleaned the new parts with brake cleaner. I also cleaned the inside of the tranny with plenty of brake cleaner. Then I plugged up one axle hole and the starter hole by stuffing plastic bags in them. Then degreased the outside of the tranny with purple power, a brush and a hose.

    Then I put it all back together. I put with a light coat of grease on the release bearing shaft and connected the new one. Also some light grease on the outside of the clutch fork where the slave cylinders push rod touches. Get your torque wrench out. Installed the new clutch, and flywheel and raised the tranny up, well my friend bench pressed it and he was sore the next day. It was a little tricky getting the speedometer cable to thread up through the hoses the correct way but it was no big deal.
    Reversed the removal, connecting all the mounts, bolts and electrical connections. Filled it with 3 full quarts of moble 1 synthetic gear oil 75w-90 and topped it off with 1/4 quart of 75w-140 because that was all the gear oil I had left. I also siphoned the old brake fluid out of the clutch fluid reservoir and flushed the rest of the old brake fluid from the clutch lines with the slave cylinder's bleeder screw, while adding new brake fluid to the clutch reservoir.

    Dropped it off the jacks and fired that mutha up! :burn:
    To my delight, everything work like new, even my synchro grinding problem was gone. It has even been fine for a couple hundred miles now.

    All in all it took me about a week to get this job completed, working nights after work. You have to have to overcome problems from lack of experience as each step is presented and this sets you back in time. Next time I think I can do this job in 24 hours straight with the right tools, big impact gun and a tranny lift.

    It was a great learning experience and now I am definitely a more knowledgable mechanic. Changing the timing belt and doing anything to the suspension now seems easy enough to tackle, which is next btw. I got a welder and I need to learn the exhaust a little better. Then some body work dings and a paint job with a carbon fiber hood should have her better than new.

    Anybody get much more or less than 80k miles out of a clutch? I seem to always get 80k miles no matter what I drive, new celica clutch and a brand new ford ranger clutch both went at 80k for me and I am the only one driving them.

    Also the old clutch disc did not look worn at all really, neither did the flywheel or the pressure plate.?? I think the springs or something on the pressure plate went bad to where it could not hold the pressure because it would skip when I gave it gas or it just got really dirty in there. I got the new parts, plus brake cleaner and gear oil from advance auto for about $350. perfection oem clutch set, perfection oem flywheel and a rear main seal, all made in china. Next time (140+80= 220k miles) I will get a stage1 or 2 racing clutch and have the tranny rebuilt while it's out.

    I hope this write up saves someone else some time and gives them confidence.

    Definitely a good write up from KoreanJoey! Thanks for the confidence!
    Last edited by PittsburghCeli; 01-20-2010 at 12:30 AM. Reason: more experience and pictures
    91 Celica GT Coupe
    Knowledge builds confidence.
    Money, time and effort gets it done.
    Experience gets it done better and faster.

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