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  1. #101

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    Quote Originally Posted by bccentaur3
    I don't think I caught it in this thread, but what valve springs are you guys using with the 2jz valves?
    You can use the stock 5sfe springs but 2jz springs are oval shaped and so have a higher spring rate with more room before coil bind. That means you can get a little more lift in your cams if you need to. In addition to that if you are going to raise the redline the 2jz springs will help you keep the slightly heavier +1mm or +2mm valves from floating at high rpms.

    Quote Originally Posted by jaydog82
    so if i have my rev 2 head milled by 1mm what will that do to my timing? will i be able to adjust it ?

    i got a quote for $140 to mill the head and clean it all up, what do you all thing?
    It will advance the cams by a degree or so but really not enough to worry about. If you want adjustability then you can get an aftermarket 2jz adjustable cam gear and have it machined to fit.

    As for the price it depends on what they do. At a local shop here I can get a head milled for $40-50 or $80 for a mirror finish. If they are taking it all apart, hot tanking it and then putting it back together then I think $140 would be a great deal. In that case you would also need to replace valve seals though.

  2. #102
    Senior Member jaydog82 is on a distinguished road

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    thanks.
    ST165

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    JDM engine and new turbo. SPEC stage 2 clutch,walbro 255lph fuel pump, AEM dry flow filter and custom 3" straight intake, 3" ausie DP, upgraded HE and heat wrapped ST165 WTA IC, 8mm magnacore wires, speedsorce solid motor mounts, ASI Aluminum RAD, 2micron second oil filter kit, prosport EGT-BOOST-WB O2 gauges, all new: seals/gaskets/belts/hoses/ Water Pump/ Timing belt kit, Rebuilt half shafts, new drive shaft u-joints, new control bushings, cleaned and balanced injectors,

  3. #103
    Senior Member jaydog82 is on a distinguished road

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    so if i have the head milled by .040 inches, it will increase my compression to something like 10.5.1, wich would give me more HP. also if i do this will it put to much stress on my stock rods and my new oem bearings? i would love more hp and i have my head off and I am about to take it down to the shop and need to know if this is something i should do. is there any info on other sites i can read?

    thanks for the help.
    ST165

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    JDM engine and new turbo. SPEC stage 2 clutch,walbro 255lph fuel pump, AEM dry flow filter and custom 3" straight intake, 3" ausie DP, upgraded HE and heat wrapped ST165 WTA IC, 8mm magnacore wires, speedsorce solid motor mounts, ASI Aluminum RAD, 2micron second oil filter kit, prosport EGT-BOOST-WB O2 gauges, all new: seals/gaskets/belts/hoses/ Water Pump/ Timing belt kit, Rebuilt half shafts, new drive shaft u-joints, new control bushings, cleaned and balanced injectors,

  4. #104

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    Quote Originally Posted by jaydog82
    so if i have the head milled by .040 inches, it will increase my compression to something like 10.5.1, wich would give me more HP. also if i do this will it put to much stress on my stock rods and my new oem bearings? i would love more hp and i have my head off and I am about to take it down to the shop and need to know if this is something i should do. is there any info on other sites i can read?

    thanks for the help.
    See posts #60, #76 and #78 of this thread. 0.040" only increases compression to about 10.15:1 but still might be noticeable on the butt dyno. You will have no problems with a properly built stock shortblock and having higher compression. The thing that really puts stress on your rods and bearings is high RPMs not power. Now if you triple or quadruple your torque then you might start worrying about the rods.

  5. #105
    Senior Member jaydog82 is on a distinguished road

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    well i got a rebuilt head off e-bay, i think i will save milling the head for another time.
    ST165

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    JDM engine and new turbo. SPEC stage 2 clutch,walbro 255lph fuel pump, AEM dry flow filter and custom 3" straight intake, 3" ausie DP, upgraded HE and heat wrapped ST165 WTA IC, 8mm magnacore wires, speedsorce solid motor mounts, ASI Aluminum RAD, 2micron second oil filter kit, prosport EGT-BOOST-WB O2 gauges, all new: seals/gaskets/belts/hoses/ Water Pump/ Timing belt kit, Rebuilt half shafts, new drive shaft u-joints, new control bushings, cleaned and balanced injectors,

  6. #106

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    Well i believe i have a valve or two knocking in my 5s, so i'm gonna rebuild my head, since its a rev 1 i need to find some 3sgte valves, are there any suggestions? what all should i do to make sure i dont mess the new valves up (ie. no more knocking).
    We rebuilt the shortblock about 5xxx miles ago, so im pretty sure the knocking is in the head.... the knocking has been present since the rebuild, it's just finally starting to get so bad i cant stand it...

  7. #107

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    If you have a noise that you think is coming from the valves, it's commonly referred to as ticking. It doesn't mean anything is messed up with it, most of the time a simple valve lash adjustment is all that is needed to correct the problem.
    As for building the new head, just make sure you have the right shims.

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  8. #108

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    lol thanks, i figured i should have put a ticking, but it is pretty loud, and some of my friends think its lower end, and i and a few others thinks its the head, so i'm not completely positive as to which one it is, or what it can be... any help in diagnosing this would be great...
    It ticks on initial start up(the head doesnt have any oil in it) for a couple seconds, it varies, and then stops and the oil light shuts off.
    If the engine is cold it wont tap (or atleast i cant hear or notice it) under any kind of load.
    when the motor is warming up and at operating temp i dont hear any ticking while idling, but as soon as i put the tiniest bit of load on it, it'll tick. some times a mid-range load wont tick as bad as a low or high range load...
    its got every one confused....

  9. #109

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    ok so to make sure i have everything right to rebuild my head on my rev2 i should mill .040 do one to mill valve upgrade from a 2jzge and i can use stock springs and get a 3 angle valve job and do a mild pp with like the stage 2 web cams and if i do all that do i need a piggy back ecu if i do all that do i have to fab up a new intake manifold and get new injectors and that with the head work done should i run 2.5 exhaust instead 2.25

    sorry typo 1 to 2 mm valve upgrade

  10. #110

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    First, magman6969, I know it will seem like I'm being a grammar nazi here, but proper punctuation and english makes answering your questions easier/possible. (depending on how bad said writing is)

    Here is my attempt at what you are asking, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

    Quote Originally Posted by magman6969 (v.Hiko)
    ...like the stage 2 web cams. And if i do all that, do I need a piggy back ecu? And do I have to fab up a new intake manifold? Will I need to get new injectors? With that head work done, should I run 2.5" or a 2.25" exhaust?
    There is no "stage 2" cams. If you are camming your car, using a fuel control system like an SAFC2 or Greddy Emanage is a good idea, but if you are going with the 294 grind from web cams, you will not need to.

    No, you will not have to make a new intake manifold. Nor will you need upgraded injectors.

    About the exhaust, most people will tell you to stick with the 2.25" piping. Honestly though, I don't think that between those two sizes you will see a difference in horsepower or torque, at least with that setup. Someone, as always, correct me if I'm wrong.

    A caveat to some of the above that I said, though. While you do not need to get a piggy-back or fab an intake manifold, both would be really nice to have. If you can do both or either easily, it is highly recommended.
    She lives!!!

    And now thrives. Took 3 years and an embarrassing amount of money, but tooooooooootally worth it
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  11. #111

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    ok thats what wanted to no. i no my spelling and grammar are bad. ill try work on that.

  12. #112

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    I'm looking at getting some cams for when I rebuild my rev.1 head. Now what I want to do is get some rev.2 cams done with the stock base circle of rev.1 cams. I am trying to get as much torque as possible from @1800 to @6000 with 2mm oversized valves, maybe a mild port and polish (just getting rid of some imperfections), and probably slightly milling the head. Dont care about idle quality or torque below 1500. Now my question is who should I talk to about getting a cam made for this?

    Sorry if its a little off topic.

    edit: also what mods other than intake, header, and a piggy back or standalone should I be looking at?

    Will be looking at a mild turbo setup in the distant future as well.

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  13. #113
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    talk to Geoff at Colt Cams. he can do a regrind on those stock cams. if i'm not mistaken the rev2 cams have larger journals than the rev1 cams do. if that's true than you'll need a rev2 head.

    if you port the head make sure you port match the intake manifold too.

    if you mill the head then remove .050in. that will get you really close to 10.5:1cr.

    you can use an SAFCII or newer model to manage fuel.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  14. #114

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    I know this thread is bout a year old but I'm new to the forum & just wanted to post a reminder that I think was briefly touched on. Using 3s or 2hz springs (stock or aftermarket) definatly need the bottom of the spring bores widend up a tick 4 them to fit on the 5s. Had to do this w/ my rev 2 head w/ 2jz springs. Also, spring to bucket clearance is a little tighter than stock but works ok. Don't widen spring bottoms 2 much though as spring seats can stay the same. Just goin off my experience w/ my machine shop & measurements.

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hookecho View Post
    if i'm not mistaken the rev2 cams have larger journals than the rev1 cams do. if that's true than you'll need a rev2 head.
    The journals are the same so rev2 cams can be used in a rev1 head as long as the base circle is ground down to 1.1" when they do the new profile.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hookecho View Post
    if you mill the head then remove .050in. that will get you really close to 10.5:1cr.
    If you change nothing else shaving 0.050" will actually give you 10.3:1. If you overbore 0.020" then that goes up to a little over 10.4:1. Just want to be precise.

    Quote Originally Posted by bmatt31 View Post
    Using 3s or 2hz springs (stock or aftermarket) definatly need the bottom of the spring bores widend up a tick 4 them to fit on the 5s. Had to do this w/ my rev 2 head w/ 2jz springs. Also, spring to bucket clearance is a little tighter than stock but works ok. Don't widen spring bottoms 2 much though as spring seats can stay the same. Just goin off my experience w/ my machine shop & measurements.
    I had the same experience with my rev2 and 2jz valve springs. I am doing a rev1 now so I will be checking to see if the same is true for the 3sgte valve springs in a rev1 head. I'm thinking not but the head is out getting shaved so I can't check right now.

  16. #116
    The Notorious P.I.G.
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    Nothing wrong with being precise. You know far more than i do when it comes to pushing the limit of the 5s.

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    "Pain and despair, damage and beatings, they don't end the world. The world ends when you're dead. You've got more punishment in store. Until then, stand it like a man and give some back".

  17. #117

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    so where can i get the rev2 cams for my 91 5S head?
    and how are the adj cams coming along.
    TOXIC VVTi

  18. #118

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    I know this thread is about a year old, but there's something that hasn't been clarified yet.

    What about valve keepers and valve spring retainers?

    If I were to put in 2JZ valves inside the 5S-FE head, along with the springs (boring out the bottom end of the springs to make them fit the spring seats) then do you use 2JZ-GTE spring retainers and valve keepers?

    Also, would it be worth it to upgrade just the intake valves to +1mm? I plan on doing forced induction, but I'd like to better the head as well with a full on head build to have it able to rev past stock redline possibly up to 700-1000 RPM higher than stock (I'm thinking a conservative 7000RPM redline)

    I would also need shimless buckets, which I would use from a 1ZZ (another topic that hasn't been covered here). I'd like something like the 763 webcam grind for my cams, which should be good enough for my goals (if not more than I need)

    I plan on getting stock 3sgte rods as well but that's not the topic.

  19. #119

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    whats this talk about 2JZ springs oval shaped and not fitting over the stems? i just replaced the springs on the head on my Supra so i can take a look at them but im 99.9999% sure they are NOT oval shaped, how would you get the exact same bucket and shim around them?

    Syaoran, if you are going for that aggressive of a cam, then i highly suggest the 1ZZ buckets. you dont want to take a chance on spitting out a shim. as for the retainers and keepers, yo ucan use the OEM Supra ones. I have the springs and retainers left over from my build. i re-used the keepers.
    2001 Celica GT-S Turbo 2ZZ-GTE
    1997 Supra TT 6 speed 2JZ-GTE
    1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ V6 hybrid
    1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE

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