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  • Power Steering Pump Replacement Write-Up

    I wanted to make this write-up because when I did this replacement, Chilton’s had only about 20 or so very unhelpful lines to say about it. I did not see Rick89GTS's thread until just now, but even that thread misses some aspects of the replacement as a whole.

    I also recommend having a Chiltons around for the torque specs and a bit of graphical backup (something this write-up lacks, but Rick89GTS's thread has). Also, read through all of this and make sure you have all the tools I mention plus the requisite ratchets and extensions, and preferably deep and short versions of all sockets I refer to. I can’t remember any bolts that I needed my deep sockets for, but it has been a week since writing most of this and doing the work, so it’s good insurance.

    The standard disclaimer: I don’t assume any responsibility for what you do to your car on account of this write up. I’ve tried my best to make a good write up, but I might’ve missed something, and what worked for me might not work for you. If you are not confident in your abilities to see this job through to the end, I recommend you not to try it, as it can be a major PITA.

    Before anything else, make sure of the fluid level. I speak from a bad hunch of my own stupidity here. My own reservoir is really hard to read as it is stained is such a way so it always looks like it’s full (awesome). By shining some intense light into the reservoir while it's dark out, though, you can tell the level for sure. On the plus side though, even if I didn’t really need to change it, the power steering lag I had on hard transitions before is now gone.

    After getting the car on jack stands with the passenger wheel off.

    -Unbolt the plastic under carriage thingy (10mm bolts, 12mm bolts I think for anomalous mount thing)

    -Remove “east/west” crossmember (4 bolts, 2 nuts, 19mm all)

    Remove pass. Axle (This part may be optional. I had to remove it any way, but I really could not see any way to do this without removing it. Couldn't hurt to treat this section as "last resort")
    -Drain ATF fluid out of tranny (24mm bolt)
    -Remove axle bolt (needle nose, 30mm. Someone needs to be on brakes.)
    -Remove tie rod (needle nose pliers, 17mm I think, pickle fork if you want to be correct, hammer if not)
    -Remove two bolts, one nut on bottom of hub (17mm)
    -Get hub off control arm by using pry bar to lower control arm off hub studs.
    -Remove carrier bearing bolts (2 of them, 14mm I think)

    Now the fun really begins
    -Remove two vacuum hoses, put some tape on the vacuum part to prevent dirt getting in
    -Remove 12mm bolt from return hose
    -Use screw driver to carefully pry out this hose. ATF fluid will drain out
    -Unbolt the other hose from the top. It’s the connection just up from the pass. strut tower (17mm wrench, and 22-23mm wrench. 24mm will work though)
    -Loosen both mount bolts (14mm I think)
    -Remove bottom mount bolt and “threaded block”.
    -Get belt off pulley.
    -Remove the lower mounting brackets (3 bolts, 14mm)
    -Remove bar that goes from axle carrier bearing to block (2 bolts, 14mm I think)(May not be necessary. I had to, but I also didn’t remove the lower mounting brackets prior to PS removal due to ignorance)
    -Remove the top mount bolt (PITA), and take the entire assembly out (PS pump + one attached hose. Should be easy now). Fluid will drain out of the hose still attached.

    Transferring the parts to new pump/ preparing and checking
    Hose
    - Used 7/8” wrench and a vise to get off the bolt on top of this.
    -Put onto replacement, making sure the two copper washers are in place

    Vacuum part
    -Note how the piece is on the original pump
    -Use 17mm wrench to unbolt this piece, and put it on new pump same way as on old

    Check the compatibility for sanity’s sake
    -Test that the 12mm bolt for the unbolted hose will work in the same hole on new PS pump. (Mine needed an initial “guiding” (Note: NOT crossthreading) to want to go in while installing)

    Pulley
    -17mm nut holds pulley in
    -Need a vise, tighten the ever-loving crap out of the pulley in there (outside edges only, not where belt sits), and undo nut (torque spec is 43, but tightened to what seemed like 100 on mine)
    -Get screwdriver and pry the pulley off from back carefully. When that stops working, get a rubber mallet and tap it off from there.
    -On new pump, put woodruff key in the slot (may need a hammer to tap it in slightly)
    -Align the chuck hole in the pulley with the woodruff key and slowly hit it with a rubber mallet to put it on (the last two steps may take a long while).

    Preparing to install
    -Remove the main pump bracket from block (3 bolts, 14mm)
    -For whatever reason, there is a spacer of sorts in this bracket that sticks out on both ends for the top bolt position.
    -Put in vise in such a way that only the spacer is being clamped, then tap the bracket to move it in the direction that maximizes space for PS pump mount point.
    -Re-install the bracket

    Install
    -Feed the hose through to the top, best as possible, and set the pump down on whatever will hold it.
    -Go up to the top, and should be able to grab both the hose and pump at the same time around the fender
    -Re-thread the top hose, let the pump dangle
    -Go back to the bottom, mount the pump and install the top bolt (easier said than done)
    -Put other hose back onto pump and 12mm bolt while you still have some play.
    -Reinstall the lower mount brackets in whatever manner you like.
    -Reinstall the brace from the axle carrier bearing to block if necessary.
    -Put lower pump bolt back in and lightly thread into “thread block”
    -Put belt back on pulley.
    -Use one hand to push pump and keep belt tight, the other to tighten the bottom bolt. Belt should be taut, but still have a little bit of play.
    -Remove tape from vacuum part of pump, and reinstall vacuum lines.

    From here, it really is a matter of reversing steps to finish up. The only other things to note is that you will need a funnel with a long and flexible tube to re-fill the transmission of ATF, and when everything’s all buttoned up and the car is back on the ground, you will need to fill and bleed the power steering. Bleeding and torque specs are covered in Chiltons, so go by those and you should be gravy.

    If anything is unclear, or if I missed something, let me know and I will update this post. Hope this helps!
    This article was originally published in forum thread: ST184 PS Pump Replacement Write-Up started by Hiko View original post
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