View Full Version : got a new sub

07-28-2005, 04:14 AM
Eclipse alum 12.

the amp install. they are behind the rear seat (which is now installed)

power hookup

the sub. working on building a box that will fit better and not make me have to ride with the sub inverted

07-28-2005, 04:35 AM
Thumpa Thumpa. :D

07-28-2005, 04:54 AM
fuck no dude.. one 12 is fucking weak :(

I need 2 more

07-28-2005, 05:23 AM
I'm happy with my 2 8"s.

david in germany
07-28-2005, 07:59 AM
Pc I hope those screws do'nt go through the rear wall of your cab.... :loser: :happyrun:

david in germany
07-28-2005, 08:00 AM
By the way what happened to the other sub? (not the 3 you sold me)

07-28-2005, 09:51 PM
4 12's are betttttttttttttter. Nice choice tho, they sound nice!

07-28-2005, 10:08 PM
if you're not careful. . . 4 subs will start to cancel each other out.

07-29-2005, 06:08 AM
if you're not careful. . . 4 subs will start to cancel each other out.


and david. the DD was blown. woulda cost more to fix it then to just buy a new one

07-29-2005, 06:33 AM
4 12's are betttttttttttttter. Nice choice tho, they sound nice!

What subs do you have RubberDuckie and what is powering them. And last but not least, what did you reach for SPL in DBs?

david in germany
07-29-2005, 06:40 AM
if you're not careful. . . 4 subs will start to cancel each other out.
Not if they are all wired properly.

07-29-2005, 08:27 AM
And positioned -- otherwise the cancellation effect is possible. If you put out two soundwaves that are exactly the same at the same time, they merge and you get one wave that's twice as powerful. If they meet out of sequence at your head, they still add together, but now the net effect is less than one of the individual sounds. The more subs, the more chances for the waves to meet exactly 90 degrees out of sequence and cancel each other out completely.

david in germany
07-29-2005, 08:44 AM
Ok I could see the chances in lets say, A house but the cabin of a car is a much smaller environment and the cances of that happening is very slim. A sub woofer creates pressure, and if you have the same "environment" with the same "motor structures" and the same signal.... you can have one thing, more pressure. now one sub out of faze will kill the pressure thus reducing the "spl" if you are running subs stereo it won't matter if you are running 2 or 16 subs there is still a chance of cancelation due to the different signal they recieve. I personaly will only run my subs mono for this reason.

david in germany
07-29-2005, 08:46 AM
By the way, PC that sub is sexy!

07-29-2005, 09:22 AM
Ditto...now, just have to figure out how to hook up my two door subs (assuming I can get the door panels at a reasonable price) to an aftermarket deck and no amp.

Starting with the GT sound system (4", 6.5", front tweeters) and trying to add the doors. Wonder if the dual mono outputs on my deck will do it...I guess I'd just ignore the connections already in the doors, since they shouldn't actually lead anywhere.

david in germany
07-29-2005, 09:40 AM
Run new wires if you are not going with the stock system 10 amp and harness.

07-29-2005, 09:46 AM
Since I don't have the stock system 10 -- don't really have a choice. Far as I can figure, I could directly run my subs off my deck (200W, 23RMS x 4 is plenty for me)

david in germany
07-29-2005, 10:24 AM
I would recomend that you run at least a 6db passive coil on the subs so they are truly being run as subs. About 100 hz would be a good point depending on the woofers themselves.
L1 should =
100Hz 6.37 mH
150Hz 4.25 mH




07-29-2005, 07:13 PM
Given my deck (Alpine 9805) has dedicated speaker and subwoofer RCA outputs, would it not already be sending a signal optimized for subwoofers?

david in germany
07-29-2005, 08:27 PM
running a sub with 500mv-4v won't be enough... (500mv-4v is the typicle RCA out voltage) you will need an amped output from the deck not the preamp.

07-30-2005, 02:55 AM
Which would require tapping into the speaker-level outputs, and then I'd need crossovers...might as well get an amp. Far as I can tell I shouldn't need to worry about a crossover if I'm using the subwoofer pre-amp outputs.

Okay, better to get a single-channel amp, but cheaper to get a two-channel amp (the deck has L and R sub pre-outs).

http://www.cardomain.com/item/BOSRT850 -- looks like it has all the right specifications, including a better signal/noise ratio than most I've seen. The fact I don't need a lot of power means I can afford to run an A/B class -- heat and power drain should be fine.

Alternately, http://www.cardomain.com/item/BOSC150 for a two-channel amp.

Can I get your collective thoughts?

Now, I know the car already has the harness for the system 10 running into the doors -- does anyone know where the other end of the wires for the door subs are left in a car without the system 10 amp? Might save me some custom wiring...

david in germany
07-30-2005, 09:54 AM
Skip the Boss amps do yourself a favor. In the long run you can do much better than the quality of the boss amps. I will get you a pic of what the connector looks like so you can track it down.

07-30-2005, 10:35 AM
What is the issue with Boss? I ask because all the specs seem to indicate a good quality (high signal-noise ratio, THD 0.01-0.05%, six-year warrenties) with the only mark against them a relatively narrow 20-20,000 Hz frequency response compared to 10-50,000 on the Jensens or Pioneers. Though that is only a little narrower than the Blaupunkt PCA250M I was also looking at.

What should I be looking for in the specs that I'm not seeing now?

david in germany
07-30-2005, 11:36 AM
I am usualy not one that bad mouths a company that I have never purchased from but Boss has to offer that 6 year warentee because you will probably need to send it back (at your cost) a few times if you try to run it hard the money and time that it would take for the "services" would out weigh the cost for a better amp in the long run. I will try to find a couple links for some dependable cost efficent amps (but remember in the long run it is your choice what you get) and this is only my opinion and maby you should search for some reviews on what you want to buy.

If you are wondering what I run in my cars. In my lancia for SQ I run older ESX Q series amps (made by Zed Audio) and in the celica I am running a single Fosgate Power 300 (old school)

david in germany
07-30-2005, 06:29 PM
Here check this out, It is used and cost a little more than the Boss but the 60ix was considered the one of Fosgates reference amps (don't let the power rating fool you)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-PUNCH-60ix-DSM-amp_W0QQitemZ5793382216QQcategoryZ39737QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

07-30-2005, 10:18 PM
Thoughts on this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-301S-Car-Amplifier-300-Watt-2CH-Amp_W0QQitemZ5794100377QQcategoryZ39737QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

The 90-day warrenty gives me a little comfort just in case -- my head unit's a similarly factory refurbished piece.

Unfortunately, I can't find the THD or signal/noise ratio on either this one or the 60ix you suggested.

david in germany
07-30-2005, 11:12 PM
looks good!


08-07-2005, 11:15 AM
Discovered a major problem with E-bay -- prices tend to go up. That, and I was dumb enough not to be one for the one auction that ended in an acceptable price for a used unit.

Anyway, while I'm still going about buying an amp, I need to figure out the wiring. Managed to trace the wiring in the doors -- green and green/black -- to a connector in the footwell with a lot of pins. Haven't yet been able to find the exit path of the sub wires. If you don't have the System 10, do the wires just terminate in that connector assembly or should I be looking somewhere else?

08-11-2005, 10:09 PM
I personally LOVE the fosgates that are the generation before the ones you guys posted.

PC actually has a small on in his pic.

Great AMPS, only down side is they put out lots of heat.