View Full Version : 3sgte rebuild guide?

07-13-2005, 06:35 PM
Does anyone know where I can find a complete guide on rebuilding the 3sgte??


07-14-2005, 06:25 PM
well if nobody know's of a guide if anyone has ever rebuilt one any tips or anything would be appreciated!

07-14-2005, 06:34 PM
The Chilton manual has procedures and specs charts, maybe it could help. Depends on the 3s-gte generations, because they have differences.

07-14-2005, 07:14 PM
Thanks man at least its a place to start. BTW its a 1990/91 3sgte (I can't remeber which was stamped into the block)

07-15-2005, 12:43 AM
Search "Celica Chilton" on amazon.com and pick the '86-'93 version.

07-17-2005, 05:41 AM
I rebuilt my 4AFE following the directions of a Haynes manual, and Chilton is far better than that one. That's the best guide you're going to get. Just make sure that if you're going to modify anything (rods, pistons, upgraded bearings, mhg, etc) you need to do it while you rebuild it.

07-20-2005, 10:59 PM
The only thing I'm modifying is removing TVIS and port matching the intake manifold. Decided to just go with a stock rebuild. I want to have a relatively dependable swap for now.

07-21-2005, 12:29 AM
Why are you removing the T-VIS?
Unless you're going to be pushing well over 300hp, it's better to leave it in.
Been checked on a dyno and all.

07-21-2005, 01:30 AM
I removed the TVIS because I had it out and sitting on the work bench and had time on my hands.
Its interesting that it wouldn't improve anything in stock form as now it will have much better air flow

07-21-2005, 02:27 AM
You've got to understand something.

At low engine speeds the engine doesn't require as large of an opening for the air to flow [1 valve as a pose to two]. Events happen slow enough that it's not required. What it does need is for the air/fuel to mix really good. Which happens better with a single intake valve [the air swirls more as it enters with a single valve], as a pose to two or more.
Which is one reason 2 valve per cyl heads tend to make more lower rpm power [torque] than 4 or more valves per cyl. Take Honda engines. 2 valves make more torque than 4 valves.

Once the engine reaches higher rpms [say 4k, but it depends on the specific engine], events start happening alot faster, and it's harder for the engine to suck in the same airflow out of only a single valve. So a second valve is needed to help the flow.
Flow becomes more important than swirl.

So, the way Toyota got around this was to design a 4 valve head, but block off 1 of the intake valves for each cylinder until higher rpms. Once higher rpms are reached [4300?], the butterfly valve opens, and allows air to reach the second valve.
The SHO engine is the same way.

One of the reasons the 3SGTE is so torquey for a 4 cyl [200 ft/lbs @ 3k rpms]

The valve and rod cause minimal distruption in flow, when your near stock levels, and gutting them causes you to lose alot of torque.

And, if you don't believe me, step on over to www.alltrac.net (http://www.alltrac.net) and ask there. It's been gone over more than once. Dynos and all, like I told you.

So, like I said, you're hurting yourself more than your helping.

07-21-2005, 02:30 AM
In addition to that, do you really think Toyota would voluntarily add something to the engine that would hurt performance yet increase cost?

07-21-2005, 03:03 AM
In addition to that, do you really think Toyota would voluntarily add something to the engine that would hurt performance yet increase cost?

point, game and match for you!

Shitty Buzz for me as its already done.... oh well :thumbsdow

07-21-2005, 03:07 AM
More incentive to boost the power. :D

07-21-2005, 04:26 AM
yeah... I guess now Im forced to work towards 300hp +
dammit :hippy: