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GRUMPY514
07-01-2005, 08:02 PM
Ay guyz.

i have a 93 Celica ST w/ 3sgte and i was wondering if i should try this stuff out. Would it be good to use on a 5sfe tranny or a v6 camary tranny?? I was just wondering if i should really try this stuff. Heard a lot ov good about it and some bad things about it being to thin.

alltracman78
07-02-2005, 01:37 AM
I personally have never used it, but I intend to try it out in my CS transmission when I [someday] put it in my Alltrac.
I've heard nothing but good about it myself. Especially with worn syncros. Other than cost.

Slider
07-02-2005, 03:11 AM
It sure doesn't hurt since we know 5th gen synchros suck

Hooligan
07-02-2005, 03:30 AM
It sure doesn't hurt since we know 5th gen synchros suck

Correction, 90-91 suck. 92+ are just fine. :)

acidice333
07-02-2005, 04:05 AM
My synchros are fine and I have a 90 (: Haha at all you people with synchro problems. Could use new fluid since I don't know when the last owner(s) changed it if at all. 222,xxx km (:

Slider
07-02-2005, 06:04 AM
Mine started acting up around 18xxxx miles. Couldn't downshift into 2nd. Put it in synchromesh and all is fine

caneman
07-02-2005, 05:45 PM
Correction, 90-91 suck. 92+ are just fine. :)

I had trouble with my 2nd and 3rd gear synchros as well. A tranny oil change fixed the problem, but I plan to drain, flush, and add Synchromesh next time myself.

What is it, though, about 90-91 trannys? Anyone know the specifics?

VikingJZ
07-09-2005, 10:03 PM
I've never heard of Synchromesh, personally. I'm sure I would know of a similar product if I saw it in front of me. With transmissions, the fluid change can really do a great bit of magic. My uncle has a 1999 Dodge Durango with an automatic transmission. His sychronizers and gears were clogging with metal shavings and such. This prevented him from accelerating all the time. He'd have to let of the gas like a manual gear box before it would shift. He took it in and the dealer said that a few gears could be bad and that a transmissoin swap was in order. I had him call my trusted mechanic and he recommended a fluid and filter change. This fluid change was done at 88K miles. The truck hasn't acted up since then, and that's nearly 30K miles later.

VikingJZ
07-09-2005, 10:05 PM
Oh well nevermind. I just went and looked it up. Definetely know what Synchromesh is. Sorry for the miscalculation.

Lagos
07-10-2005, 10:23 PM
i have synchromesh in my gt tranny. i really love it. it gives u very smooth shift feel.

GRUMPY514
07-10-2005, 10:58 PM
I just bought 2 Quarts of it do you think i will need more? I have a V6 Tranny from a Camary and i have a 3sgte it was like 6 bux a bottle where i bought it at AutoZone.


Thanx,

Punisher
07-10-2005, 11:38 PM
Uh.. how many qt's does your tranny take?

Lagos
07-11-2005, 01:26 AM
i know for my tranny i needed 3 bottles.

GRUMPY514
07-11-2005, 05:19 AM
Iam not relly shure actully but i probally should buy another bottle of it then if yourz takez 3

Thanx guyz

Hooligan
07-11-2005, 07:26 AM
I think the S53 is 2.8 quarts or something like that (you need 3 quarts to get the job done).

What's wrong with the 90-91 synchros? Nothing is wrong, per se, but the 92+ are of a superior construction.

Also, there are a bunch of good threads on here about synchromesh. Search away.

Punisher
07-11-2005, 03:43 PM
90-91 syncroz suckz dudez

Jigglypuff
07-11-2005, 05:00 PM
Here's an interesting read for people who really care about the longevity of their transmission synchros:

http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=41330&highlight=synchromesh

Hooligan
07-11-2005, 05:25 PM
Here's an interesting read for people who really care about the longevity of their transmission synchros:

http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=41330&highlight=synchromesh

Very, very good read.

alltracman78
07-12-2005, 02:17 AM
So how much are you guys paying per quart for this stuff?

Sean
07-12-2005, 02:24 AM
ATF dexron 3 is about a dollar a bottle, and works just as well, cough cough.

GO to autozone, and buy penzoil syncromesh, same stuff, much cheaper!

acidice333
07-12-2005, 02:35 AM
I can't read it ): It says I have to login =/ Screw signing up too much signups there should be a passport like MSN uses.


Very, very good read.

Hooligan
07-12-2005, 02:40 AM
It takes two minutes to sign up and it's a great site (actually a partner to us here).

ATF is cheap, but has little to offer for protection.

Punisher
07-12-2005, 02:53 AM
Pennzoil Syncromesh runs 6 dollars a bottle at autozone.. It's a little bit heavier than ATF.. What I did was put 2qt's of Syncromesh in and the rest I finished off with Lucas 140w heavy duty gear lube. Works excellent.

Jigglypuff
07-12-2005, 03:21 AM
I can't read it ): It says I have to login =/ Screw signing up too much signups there should be a passport like MSN uses.Oh yeah. Here:



Ok, after much research both online and offline, I have come to my conclusion on the gear oil issue. Although it appears to differ with the opinions on this board, I have chosen not to document sources, mainly because of time. I urge all of you concerned to search Google with terms such as "GL5 yellow metal" or "sulphur synchros". Take from this what you may.

I have a 1992 NA MR2. My owner's manual specifies "multigrade GL3 gear oil," GL4 or GL5 if that isn't available. GL2 and above rated gear oils include some amount of extreme pressure additives in order to reduce "gear wear." Not synchro wear. In the past, these EP additives have consisted of sulphur-phosphorous compounds and zinc. Zinc has not been used for some time due to the corrosive nature of it. The sulphur compounds are still used (note: GL5 has TWICE as much EP additive than GL4). Keep in mind, however, that active sulphur compounds CORRODE yellow metal synchros. They do not protect against corrosion. They only protect against wear of the gears. If fact, many trannys that specify GL3 oil have been destroyed (their synchros) due to using GL5. The higher number isn't always better. With this said, supposedly major companies have started utilizing inactive sulphur compounds which supposedly do not corrode yellow synchros.

On top of this, many have reported that the high levels of EP in GL5 are too "slippery" for single cone synchros to work properly (this part of the tranny works by using a certain amount of friction to get the two halves to spin at the right speed). GM had an additive developed to circumvent this (friction modifier) which allowed one to use a certain amount of EP without causing the synchros to slip too much (Synchromesh). There are a few different versions (the latest being semi-synthetic). From what I understand, the Pennzoil is not semi-synthetic. All of the synchromesh oils also use inactive sulphur compounds as their EP which are safe for yellow metals.

IMO, Toyota did not believe that the amount of torque in our NA's did not warrant the need for EP additive originally. Maybe they changed their mind later due to shearing possibilities using ATF, but either way, they started specifying GL rated oils later, preferably utilizing the ones with only a moderate amount of sulphur (GL3). This could be due to the possible corrosive effects of the EP additive, or possibly because the higher levels did not allow enough friction for the synchros to work properly. Who knows...

Along the same note, Jeeps specified GL5 for particular models but the high levels of EP ended up corroding synchros. Because of this, many Jeep owners only use GL3 which contains much safer levels of sulphur. Many also use Syncromesh because it helped already ailing synchros, as well as prevents more corrosion by using a safe EP additive which also inhibits gear wear.

With all of this said for NA users, it is becoming particularly hard to find GL3 or GL4 gear oil. For any user having syncro problems, switching to an oil with lower levels of EP would help the syncros grab better. Using an oil with an added friction modifier would help even better, hence the reason that switching to Redline MTL-90 (GL4) or Synchromesh (some EP and a friction modifier) helps our transmissions.

Even if it is true that most all GL5 oils include inactive compounds that are yellow metal safe, they may not allow for enough friction on the synchros. So for NA MR2 owners that would like to use Toyota's latter recommendation (post 92), I would recommend a GL3 or GL4 oil (preferably GL3, but I don't think that there are any GL3 synthetics out there). This way you will prevent corrosion of the synchros but still have an EP additive to prevent wear of the gears.

I do not own a turbo, but noting the specified oil (GL5), I have a few thoughts. While Toyota may specify a GL5 due to the stress of the turbo MR2's gears, it doesn't seem to be allowing enough grab on synchros to shift great for a 91 or 92. On top of that, it may have lead to corrosion of the synchros, however, I doubt that it is high enough to cause damage since they do specify a GL5. (Keep in mind NA guys that Toyota said a GL5 is "ok" and that they probably use the same metals in the turbo tranny where a GL5 is supposedly required for protection against wear of the gears). A GL4 oil like Redline should help prevent corrosion as well as provide "enough" EP additive to prevent gear wear and also provide better friction to the synchros. Since I've never heard of an MR2 tranny which is rendered useless by GEAR wear, I'm sure GL4 is safe and will provide the needed friction in the 91, 92 trannys.




So basically, the idea is to use enough EP additive to provide adaquate protection to the gears without using too much which possibly might corrode the synchros with inactive sulphur compounds or cause the synchros to slip and grind. Redline says that they accomplish this by using a GL4 rated oil with half as much EP saving the synchros, helping them catch better (in turn causing you to shift better), while still providing adaquate gear protection. I would tend to agree with them since our single cone trannys our having problems with synchros, not gears.

No NAs, not much EP protection is required at all, so the lowest levels (ATF or GL3) are prefered helping the synchros catch and preventing corrosion.

Synchromesh is somewhat in between. A post regarding its composition discovered that it is made up of a yellow-metal safe EP additive, about 10w30 weight oil, and a friction modifier bring overall gear oil weight to about 80w90. This can be used with a GL5 oil allowing the gears to catch better with higher EP numbers (recommended to user who wish to use high gear protection but still shift well). I, however, do not recommend the GL5 high EP numbers for NAs due to the possibilties of synchro corrosion so I would only use about half GL5.

With all of this in mind, these are my personal recommendations and I assume no liability; this is just from what I've learned talking to people and researching this.

91, 92 Turbos - New or like new condition, use GL5. If there is even slight grinds, I would use a GL4 rated oil to prevent further damage from grinding. It will allow for better synchro "bite" without lowering the EP additive too much to cause gear wear. If that doesn't work well enough, try Syncromesh or a combination of Synchromesh and GL4/GL5 oil (Synchromesh DOES include SOME EP additive continuing to protect gears). I'd recommend Redline as a GL4 rated oil, and Pennzoil for synchromesh fluid. Keep in mind that even Synchromesh alone probably has enough of an EP additive to prevent gear wear.

ALL (91-98) NAs - New or like new, use GL3. Next best, GL4. Any grinding using GL5, switch to lower GL rating. Grinding with GL4 or lower, use a mix of synchromesh (about half and half) and GL4. If you can't afford Redline (only GL4 I know of), use a mix of synchromesh and GL5. This way, you'd only have have of the possibly corrosive EP in GL5 bringing you down to a GL4, as well as a friction modifier allowing for better shifting.

93+ Turbos - Why are you grinding? You have triple cone synchros! J/k, same as 91, 92 Turbo.

With all of that said, I can't afford Redline (the only GL4 I know of). I can't even find a GL3. My 92 NA doesn't grind at all but I need to change my fluid for the first time. Rather than dump a GL5 in there alone when I obviously don't need much EP (they started off recommend ATF with no EP), I'm going to add a mix of Synchromesh and GL5. I think it is the safest bet even if their is something "magical" amount GL# rated oils that help our trannys (although all research shows that higher EP we go, the worst for our synchros and the best for our gears). My synchros should be safe (after all, Toyota said GL5 was ok plus I'm using half as much), they'll bite with the friction modifier, plus synchromesh DOES have an EP that they say on their bottle is yellow metal safe.

In any event, for those of you using GL5 out of financial reasons, or because of the manual's recommendations or because you feel that Synchromesh doesn't afford enough EP protection, let me point something out. Please, don't be like your Jeep friends whose owner's manual specified GL5 but had the high EP levels eat synchros. Ask the company making the oil if they use inactive sulphur compounds and it is safe for yellow metal synchros. Interesting note: I went to Walmart and Autozone to choose with GL5 I would use today and I found that Walmart's SuperTech GL5 says that it prevent corrosion of copper and bronze parts in the tranny. Go look for yourself!

Once again, I urge anyone to search the internet to make up your own mind. You'll find much concrete evidence. In fact, Redline's site says that by using GL5 over GL4 with twice as much EP will shorten the lifespan of the yellow metal syncro by half! I wonder what they would say to the SuperTech yellow-metal safe GL5? How's that for food for thought.

-Jonathan

Sean
07-12-2005, 04:20 AM
It takes two minutes to sign up and it's a great site (actually a partner to us here).

ATF is cheap, but has little to offer for protection.

Whys that?

Hooligan
07-12-2005, 05:05 AM
Whys that?

Right click, save as:
http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downloads/MTL%20TR%2002_03.pdf

GRUMPY514
07-12-2005, 05:14 AM
yea its abouts a little under 6 bux a quart since i paid like 11.56 for 2 quarts. Ill just finsher her off with another bottle of Synchromesh instead of the Lucas gear oil. Which 1 you think would work better?

E,

Sean
07-12-2005, 07:03 AM
Right click, save as:
http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downloads/MTL%20TR%2002_03.pdf

Picking a friendly fight here Dave, again ;)

So why dont you reccomend Redline products, according to those charts, there far superior? Is everything truthful that you read online?

:)

acidice333
07-12-2005, 07:39 AM
"reverse" on a standard 90 isn't syncro'd right?

Hooligan
07-12-2005, 03:42 PM
"reverse" on a standard 90 isn't syncro'd right?

Correct. That's why it's sometimes difficult to get the car in gear, even if it's just sitting still.

Sean, I am not trying to pick a fight. I can't particularly recommend Redline from personal experience of it getting rid of synchro grind because I don't have grinding synchros on my transmission. I am, however, using Redline MTL and am very happy with it. I see where you're going with me using something from Redline's site as something to back me up, but I don't feel like the data is that skewed. They sell ATF as well.

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=69574&page=5 <---a bunch of engineers talking about a similar debate

VikingJZ
07-12-2005, 04:41 PM
[QUOTE]Here's an interesting read for people who really care about the longevity of their transmission synchros:

http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=4...ght=synchromesh


Very nice.

I think I'll buy some Synchromesh today. Oh and on the subject of fluids, what about using two quarts of synchromesh and one quart of Lucas Transmission Gear Lubricant? For those who don't know, it's a very heavy fluid. They make stuff for nearly every part of your car. Add a quart of it to you oil change and it stops smoking, at least in my other vehicle, 1991 GMC Sonoma.

Hooligan
07-12-2005, 04:48 PM
Personally, I would not mix. I would go with all Synchromesh.

Punisher
07-12-2005, 05:40 PM
well the stock S53-S54 only holds 2.7qt's... So like I said I put in 2qt's of SYncromesh.. and I finished the rest off with some Lucas 140w Heavy Duty gear oil that I had drained out of my tranny.. Cuz that is what I was using to begin with.. I have no issues with mixing them.. No more grinding which I was like absolutely blown away with when I downshifted into second gear at 45mph.. when before I couldn't even do it at 25mph with out hearing and feeling some nasty grinding action.. and not the bump and grindin lesbian action that I like either.. (lol).

So anyway.. I figure that'll help to thicken the mixture up and throw a little more protection for high heat in there as well.. All is well. Maybe doing a half n half of the solution would work... I don't know.. I used the lucas heavy weight because it was all I had left to top the tranny off.

As for the Lucas in your motor oil.. they make the regular and they make a synthetic (mucho expensivo) heavy weight oil additive.. Shit works great for stopping oil burn-off. Plus it's summer.. so why not use some heavy ass oil.

Sean
07-12-2005, 07:30 PM
well the stock S53-S54 only holds 2.7qt's... So like I said I put in 2qt's of SYncromesh.. and I finished the rest off with some Lucas 140w Heavy Duty gear oil that I had drained out of my tranny.. Cuz that is what I was using to begin with.. I have no issues with mixing them.. No more grinding which I was like absolutely blown away with when I downshifted into second gear at 45mph.. when before I couldn't even do it at 25mph with out hearing and feeling some nasty grinding action.. and not the bump and grindin lesbian action that I like either.. (lol).

So anyway.. I figure that'll help to thicken the mixture up and throw a little more protection for high heat in there as well.. All is well. Maybe doing a half n half of the solution would work... I don't know.. I used the lucas heavy weight because it was all I had left to top the tranny off.

As for the Lucas in your motor oil.. they make the regular and they make a synthetic (mucho expensivo) heavy weight oil additive.. Shit works great for stopping oil burn-off. Plus it's summer.. so why not use some heavy ass oil.

You keep saying that it thickens the mixture, this will thicken the mixture, blah blah blah. If you want thick, run some regular old gear oil.

Thick fluid, is one of the reasons why we have syncro issues. Thinner fluid, with high heat dissipiation properties is what were going for.

Punisher
07-12-2005, 08:19 PM
Well no shit.. a heavier gear oil will protect gears.. but then you have syncro grinding.. thinner won't protect gears as well but will stop syncro's from grinding.

Sean
07-12-2005, 10:32 PM
Well no shit.. a heavier gear oil will protect gears.. but then you have syncro grinding.. thinner won't protect gears as well but will stop syncro's from grinding.

False.

Punisher
07-13-2005, 02:50 AM
So sorry then.. just quoting what I read here...

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5574&highlight=syncromesh


Thinner oil/gear lube allows the synchros to spin easier, but provides less protection for the transmission internals.

If you want to tell me I'm "false" put some hard facts on the table to show it before you finish your post.

Sean
07-13-2005, 06:45 AM
Well, thicker is not always better. Think of sythentic fluids, much less viscous then regular 30weight gear oil, yet equal, similiar protection.

A gear is just a machined piece of metal, as well as the syncros. So why would there needs be any different? As long as the oil isnt breaking down by thermal means, the weight of fluid is going to be a null fact.

Im not hydrodynamic wiz, but just because one is thinner, doesnt mean it offers less protection.

ATF is much less viscous versous a GL5 weight gear oil. Why would an automatic transmission require less protection then a manual gear box?

I can just tell you that whoever said that was wrong, that tis all. No worries or anything.

Punisher
07-13-2005, 06:48 AM
Hooligan said that.

A heavier oil will hang onto the internals better than a thin oil...

A synthetic oil is less prone to breaking down which is why synthetics were made.. A more pure oil than conventional oils.

Also the A/T arguement doesn't work either because it is a hydraulic device.. Put a heavy weight oil in an automatic tranny and see how well it works. Not to mention it's fluid coupled (torque converter).

Sean
07-13-2005, 06:28 PM
So does an automatic have gears or not? Thats right, it does. Why do automatic transmissions last so long if ATF is to thin.

Synthetic oils are less viscous, with equal or better protection, you said it yourself.

A thinner oil is going to get more places, faster. Is it easier to swim in water, or syrup?

Again, I dont really know much either, but i can just tell you thats not a correct statement.

Now go punish someone else :)

Punisher
07-13-2005, 07:00 PM
Nice try.. But they make heavy weight synthetics too.. Lucas makes a heavy weight engine oil additive.. Synthetic has nothing to do with oil weight.. A synthetic is more slippery than a conventional oil.. THe reason synthetics were made is so they can be more PURE of an oil. When you take crude oil you can only refine it so much.. and put so many additives in it.. Where as a synthetic is made in a lab.. so it's quality is controlled.

Now think of it like this.. During summer using a thicker oil in your engine is good.. Because temperatures are higher.. things get hotter the oil thins out and flows faster. Now in the winter you don't want to use a heavy weight oil because it will be hard for the oil pump to send that oil through the engine because it's cold.. So you use a lighter weight oil because of the lower temperatures.

Same deal with a manual transmission.. If you have heavy weight oil hanging around on the syncro's that is going to slow them down.. which is why we get grinding. If you use a thinner oil it won't create as much drag on the syncro's. So no grinding..

BUT.. then at the same time you want oil to hang around on the gears.. to stop galling and scorning of the gears. So it's a trade off.. heavy weight oil = gear protection.. it won't run out of the gear teeth when they mesh together as easy as thin oil will. However heavy weight oil will slow the syncro's down.

ATF is designed to keep the inside of the automatic tranny clean.. You also have an oil pump in the AT as well.. not to mention the filter.. If you use to heavy of an oil it won't pump around as well, it won't go through the tiny valves in the transmission either or the filter. Not to mention it would take even MORE power to turn the torque converter if you had a heavy thick oil in it.. and it wouldn't flow smoothly either, talk about a jerky ride.

Many big differences between an auto and a manual. Auto trannies gears are always turning.. they never stopped therefore they always alined.. Set at the factory..

Punisher
07-13-2005, 07:12 PM
Btw, I think it's worth mention that Toyota used ATF in the 5th gen gearboxes.. then shortly after they came out with a service bulletin..

"To improve the shift characteristics and feel of vehicles equipped with the S5 # series manual transmission, the gear lubricant has been changed from Dexron (R)II to 75w-90 GL5 Gear Lube."

This is for '90 model Celica's and it was issued by Toyota on 2-8-91.

Now the Pennzoil Syncromesh I bought was made for Manual transmissions. It appears to be nothing more than an ATF with additives to thicken it up.. as it doesn't exactly smell like ATF but more like a gear lube.. yet it's got the same color as ATF.. ATF won't stick to our gears and therefore you will get gear contacts with very little lubricant to cushion the gears when they mesh together.. An Automatic tranny since it has a fluid pump is constantly spraying the gears down with fluid.. Manuals don't have this luxury.

Sean
07-13-2005, 08:16 PM
Nice try.. But they make heavy weight synthetics too.. Lucas makes a heavy weight engine oil additive.. Synthetic has nothing to do with oil weight.. A synthetic is more slippery than a conventional oil.. THe reason synthetics were made is so they can be more PURE of an oil. When you take crude oil you can only refine it so much.. and put so many additives in it.. Where as a synthetic is made in a lab.. so it's quality is controlled.

Now think of it like this.. During summer using a thicker oil in your engine is good.. Because temperatures are higher.. things get hotter the oil thins out and flows faster. Now in the winter you don't want to use a heavy weight oil because it will be hard for the oil pump to send that oil through the engine because it's cold.. So you use a lighter weight oil because of the lower temperatures.

Same deal with a manual transmission.. If you have heavy weight oil hanging around on the syncro's that is going to slow them down.. which is why we get grinding. If you use a thinner oil it won't create as much drag on the syncro's. So no grinding..

BUT.. then at the same time you want oil to hang around on the gears.. to stop galling and scorning of the gears. So it's a trade off.. heavy weight oil = gear protection.. it won't run out of the gear teeth when they mesh together as easy as thin oil will. However heavy weight oil will slow the syncro's down.

ATF is designed to keep the inside of the automatic tranny clean.. You also have an oil pump in the AT as well.. not to mention the filter.. If you use to heavy of an oil it won't pump around as well, it won't go through the tiny valves in the transmission either or the filter. Not to mention it would take even MORE power to turn the torque converter if you had a heavy thick oil in it.. and it wouldn't flow smoothly either, talk about a jerky ride.

Many big differences between an auto and a manual. Auto trannies gears are always turning.. they never stopped therefore they always alined.. Set at the factory..


Why are you preaching to me all of the things that ive been preaching on this and other boards for years? Ive torn a couple trannies apart, i know how syncros work. I also have known that ive run 275 crank hp though a S-53 transmission for over 4 years with no issues, all with ATF. Real life data bro.

Your going off on some random tangents, different weights of motor oil are used at different times of the year for different reasons.

Thick oil is more viscous, and the thickness is added to it by cold temperature, which creates a sluggish oil. So, people use a less viscous oil in the winter, big deal, that means nothing. Also, people who run synthetic do not have to worry about that, so what are you getting at?

Listen, the thinking behind that is all wrong. Lucas made that product, for people who think they have oil burning issues.

THink about this, people also switch to a more viscous oil, because there trying to stop there oil consumption issues. They do this because they think that the thicker oil is going to have a harder to time getting past the rings, which is all true.

Look, this is rocket science, a thicker oil not going to provide great lubrication. It has a rough time circulating, and its not going to "hang" on the gears any longer.

Ive gotta type my paper, and then cruise to the other side of the state.

You win.

GRUMPY514
07-13-2005, 10:37 PM
Love it =D lol 1zt post ive made that has gotten over 5 responses feelz prtty gudd actully. I will be putting it in my car probally tommarow and i overlooked it itz mo lyke 7 bux a bottle kuz i hada buy a 3d bottle ov it 2 day. Ill tell you have it goes after the 1zt day and what i think about it

Sean
07-13-2005, 11:55 PM
Enjoy the syncromesh! You will love it!

Another thing you might want to look into, is adjust your clutch pedal. Do a search on this :)

Punisher
07-14-2005, 12:08 AM
Love it =D lol 1zt post ive made that has gotten over 5 responses feelz prtty gudd actully. I will be putting it in my car probally tommarow and i overlooked it itz mo lyke 7 bux a bottle kuz i hada buy a 3d bottle ov it 2 day. Ill tell you have it goes after the 1zt day and what i think about it

Where did you get your ebonics processor?

Punisher
07-14-2005, 12:09 AM
To Sean:

I forget how this even started and I ain't going to go back and look so thanks for the "win" :shrug:

GRUMPY514
07-14-2005, 12:23 AM
hahah i can type like this. i just don't really choose to, just a thing i've picked up over the years i guess =D

Sean
07-14-2005, 12:24 AM
To Sean:

I forget how this even started and I ain't going to go back and look so thanks for the "win" :shrug:

lol, no worries, im not worried.

GRUMPY514
07-14-2005, 12:27 AM
I got a questions guyz. I have a stage 3 Klutch on migh kar ACT and i wuz wondering like when i push in klutch it squeekz a little at a certin point a very little squeek, cant really notice it much outside buh i can hear it. how could i stop that? which part or where would i have to lube up to stop this squeeking????

Thanx

Punisher
07-14-2005, 02:33 AM
I'd answer but I can't even stand reading your typing.

GRUMPY514
07-14-2005, 05:11 PM
ha when i push the clutch in it squeeks a little? How do i stop this?

Punisher
07-14-2005, 07:28 PM
It's the peddle.. The rod off of the peddle that goes into the firewall (into your fluid resevior) Take some lubricant.. I used white lithium grease.. put it on the rod. Check for play in the peddle as well.. as in free play when pushing the clutch down before it actually contacts the rod.. and adjust that as well.. if u want..