View Full Version : new mod

david in germany
12-09-2004, 03:14 PM
Hey guys and any gals that are not to scared to venture into the EA&S zone. I am Happy to announce I have been selected to help out Playfortheday here in the forum. :wiggle:
I hope that me trying to help out doesn't bother anyone and I am always happy to help anyone that has questions. If I can't answer the question I will also be happy to try and find the answer (if my wife lets me use the computer of course :owned: )
I have some Ideas that I would like to bring to the forum that I hope will help out with some of the Toyota stereo questions that you all may have. Plus being here in Germany I am on a different time than most of you so 6 hours ahead of the US East coast which gives me a head start to answer the questions you may have in the early morning.
Have a great day all!

12-09-2004, 03:44 PM
Glad to see you aboard David!

12-09-2004, 03:55 PM
great news for you.. uber cool

12-09-2004, 11:02 PM
Es ist sehr schon

12-31-2004, 10:23 PM
Three-part question for you then David, if you'd be so kind.

Working with a 1990 GT, 4" speakers in the dash and 6.5" in the rear seat, plus the front tweeters.

Replacing the stock cassette radio with an Alpine CDM-9805, a 4x50W with three pre-outs.

Q1: What connector/adapter am I looking at to install my new deck? I've got ideas (Scosche TA02R) but would like confirmation from somebody who actually owns a fifth-gen.

Q2: Is my car actually pre-wired for system 10? I've noticed the empty speaker locations have wiring leading up to them, and I've got a couple of amp boxes (don't know if they're occupied, didn't have time to check when I disassembled my car).

Q3: Were I to purchase a couple of additional speakers to fit the empty locations, is it just a matter of hooking up to the existing wiring?

I should mention, first install of electronics for me, though not the first time I've pulled the radio -- even managed to put it back right!

david in germany
12-31-2004, 10:47 PM
Ok no no maby,
just kidding.
The Harness that you chose is to replace the stock harness that is already in the car (if yours was cut out)
You will need the METRA 70-1761
Which empty speaker locations are you talking about?

Forgot to mention the System 10 portion of your question.
If you have the amp under your passenger seat it would be a simple fix of adding the missing speakers but then the headachs of adding the after market deck.
does you car have the speakers in the door?

01-02-2005, 11:17 AM
Thanks for the quick reply David

The existing harness is still in there -- just want to confirm what adapter harness I'll need between the stock harness and the new head unit (Alpine CDM-9805).

The empty speaker locations that I've noted to have wire leads are in the B-pillars, the doors and above the rear struts. I believe the latter is for a set of tweeters. I've only got four existing speakers, in the dash and rear seat sides, and two tweeters up front. The boxes I'm talking about are behind the side panels, next to the speakers. The boxes are labelled as 30W -- trying to remember more, but the last time I saw them was in August.

david in germany
01-02-2005, 05:11 PM
Without the System 10 amp and deck you can add the tweeters in the rear and in the front and run them without the need of an amp that is what the extra wires are.
The Metra harness I mentioned above is the one you will need to attach the new deck (METRA 70-1761) this is the same one you will need to install any aftermarket deck into any toyota from 1986 till about 2000 model years.
The boxes you are talking about are for the stock 6.5s in the side pannel (labeled "Live Sound" they are about a .5 cubic foot ported enclosure for the speakers and have a 6 db low pass crossover mounted behind the speaker.
Let me know how it goes!

01-04-2005, 07:03 PM
Ended up getting the Schosche TA02 adapter to go with my Alpine CDA-9805 from the same guys.

Bit of fun wiring everything -- had a few leads left over on either side, since I have neither a dimming lead on the new head unit (annoying) or a remote turn-on for an amp (non-existent).

The major difficulty came in stuffing the extra wire lengths into the cavity. The additional foot of wiring might be blocking the rear fan on the head unit, and I noticed the unit was pretty hot just playing a CD with the bass cranked. :squint: Might remove it and trim the adapter wire short.

Not even sure if I'll bother with the subwoofers or mid-bass addition anymore...sound was already pretty good and this unit boosts it even more. :D

01-09-2005, 01:41 AM

I'm going to have to bodge (for all our UK friends) this installation a bit.

Once installed I found the head unit stuck out too far, and interfered with my cupholder. Anything bigger than a can of pop presses the Alpine's buttons and changes the station or puts the CD on random when I go over a big bump. :rant:

The part sticking out is the detachable faceplate and the plastic frame that goes around it. I'll have to drill new screw holes in the car's mounting bracket to shift the radio back about a centimetre. This will eliminate the plastic frame, but since the faceplate will now be partially recessed so that the outer edge is flush with the panel, it shouldn't be problem.

That will also give me the opportunity to trim the wiring down -- the unit is getting literally too hot to hold at times and I want to make sure there's enough airspace back there for the head unit's fan to work.

Any thoughts? :confused:

And I've changed my mind on the issue of adding in the door speakers -- the sound is great with this new unit but the imaging is noticably rear-oriented.

01-11-2005, 05:37 AM

Just repositioning the radio in the stock bracket isn't going to work -- the faceplate alone leaves a 3mm gap around all sides.

Looks like I need to fabricate a frame to go between the faceplate and the console trim plate. I was thinking the easiest thing to do would be balsa wood -- it's light and soft enough to cushion the radio against rattling. Build it into the trim plate, fill in the corners with putty so there's no obvious seam, and paint it black. I'd like to avoide painting the trim plate if I can, since to make things match I'd then have to paint the rest of the dash trim.

Anybody have alternative suggestions? (I could also use another trim plate; the one I have cracked and is ready to split next time I take it out)