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jman91
04-30-2017, 08:37 AM
I'm looking to replace the deck in my 91 GTS with the system 10 stereo. I don't want to have to rewire my whole system to have all the speakers working with the stock amplifier, I also don't want to have to replace the stock amplifier due to trying to keep the cost low. I read on here that theres a wire harness from Metra (70-8112) that allows the use of the stock amp on 92 and newer vehicles. However my car is a very early 91, built on 08/1990, and the post led me to believe that maybe the harness would work on later model 91s. I have the integrated cd/tape double din deck. Will that harness work? And if not what are my options? Any advise is helpful. thank you

METDeath
05-01-2017, 03:16 PM
Bad news, the 90/91 System 10 use a different plug than 92/93 so there is no cheap plug and play solution. There's a harness in the UK that runs about $60-70 shipped, it is for an MR2 and was reported to work.

There are two options:

1) Lose the door speakers and amp, you will keep the front/rear and tweeters (my 91 GTS came like this it was quite special though)
2) Rewire the whole system (I did this one, took about 8 hours with me not working super fast or knowing my exact point of firewall entry)


Regarding option 1:
The 90/91 has the normal two plug harness used in most Toyota vehicles so you get the normal Metra harness (70-1761) disconnect the jumper that runs to the amp/back to the radio and install like normal You could get a very small aftermarket amplifier just for the door speakers, I'm talking tiny as the doors are normally rated at like 50W each.

jman91
05-02-2017, 01:40 AM
I have an aftermarket amp laying around. I'm assuming to use that I'd have to run the red and white cables to the amp and speaker wires to the doors? Thanks for the reply I almost bought everything the other day thinking it would work I'm glad I didn't now.

METDeath
05-02-2017, 06:28 PM
You'd have to use some RCA cables from the head unit to the amp, depending on the speakers you're running your door you may want to use the front outputs or the sub-woofer outputs. If it's stock or some modified full range speaker, then use the front RCA out. If they are true sub-woofers then use the sub-woofer channel.

What speakers have you replaced upgraded? I know most of the factory door speakers have crumbled rubber at this point.

jman91
05-03-2017, 02:52 AM
The door speakers and lower rear speakers were replaced by the previous owner shortly before I bought it last year. I'll peak under the passenger seat sometime to see what the wiring looks like. So you're saying the only speakers I'll loose are the 2 larger door speakers if I bypass the amp?

METDeath
05-03-2017, 04:09 AM
If you bypass the factory amp, and only hook up the Metra harness listed earlier, yes.

If you go a step further and stick a small amplifier to drive the door speakers, it can be really small... like 2 channel, 100W peak total.

jman91
05-04-2017, 03:09 AM
That doesn't sound as bad as I thought. I need to look at it but I think the amp I have is a 4 channel amp so maybe I'll use that to run those and another set of speakers I have as well. I'm also looking at a sub kit on amazon since I'm going to be running wires around anyway. Unfortunately my other car is suffering from a major clutch pedal failure so I'm going to have to wait until that's sorted out. Thanks for your help I'll post how it goes and what I end up doing. Hopefully it isn't too long. I hope to start around June. Thanks again

METDeath
05-05-2017, 04:49 AM
Check out KnuKonceptz (http://www.ebay.com/usr/knukonceptz.com?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) on eBay, they make amazing kits and wire.

jman91
05-22-2017, 11:31 PM
Check out KnuKonceptz (http://www.ebay.com/usr/knukonceptz.com?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) on eBay, they make amazing kits and wire.

I've got roughly what i want to do figured out I just have to get some bills in order first. I'll be ordering one of those amps kits relatively soon for my brother's car. Hopefully by the middle of summer I can follow through with my plan. I'll post an update when I get it all done. I was planning on putting the radio in myself and having cartoys deal with the amps.

METDeath
05-23-2017, 07:50 PM
I've got roughly what i want to do figured out I just have to get some bills in order first. I'll be ordering one of those amps kits relatively soon for my brother's car. Hopefully by the middle of summer I can follow through with my plan. I'll post an update when I get it all done. I was planning on putting the radio in myself and having cartoys deal with the amps.

Want a sanity check on the plan?

jman91
05-25-2017, 03:45 AM
Want a sanity check on the plan?

Sanity check?

METDeath
05-26-2017, 02:41 PM
Sanity check?

Verification that what you want to do will work, or is it just crazy.

jman91
05-27-2017, 01:58 AM
Yeah that would be great. My plan is to replace the deck and wire in a sub. I'm going to get a rockford fosgate kit from amazon (the 10" with the 300w amp). Where I'm a little confused is keeping my big speakers in the door. I was gonna find a small amp like you suggested and wire that into the speakers. I'm assuming I'll be running new wires through the doors to the speakers which I'm not too excited for. I've never run 2 amps in my cars before and I'm not sure how the deck will distinguish between the sub and the front speakers running from the amp (for front and rear balancing purposes). I think there will be multiple RCA inputs in the back of the deck for front and rear since the amps will have settings for low, all and high pass frequencies. I plan on doing the deck install myself because I'm putting in a double din pioneer and it should be pretty simple. After that I'll need to see how I feel I really hate doing interior work lol.

METDeath
05-29-2017, 04:34 AM
Head unit: which Pioneer model are you looking at? Make sure it six outputs (Front Left/Right, Rear Left/Right, 2x sub-woofer)
Sub Kit: can you post a link to the specific kit you're looking at? If it's the one I found you'd be better off selecting your own amps and wiring kit.

You don't have to run new wires all the way to the door, but it's "better" I soldered my speaker wires to the door speakers so I wouldn't have to take them off if the wires fell off.
The level equalization will have to be done at the amplifier level, if you're unsure of how to best do this, you may want to find a shop that does measured amplifier level calibration.

jman91
05-29-2017, 08:32 AM
Head unit: which Pioneer model are you looking at? Make sure it six outputs (Front Left/Right, Rear Left/Right, 2x sub-woofer)
Sub Kit: can you post a link to the specific kit you're looking at? If it's the one I found you'd be better off selecting your own amps and wiring kit.

You don't have to run new wires all the way to the door, but it's "better" I soldered my speaker wires to the door speakers so I wouldn't have to take them off if the wires fell off.
The level equalization will have to be done at the amplifier level, if you're unsure of how to best do this, you may want to find a shop that does measured amplifier level calibration.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FKW6CIQ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A36NY6MO5E7I8U

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HUBLZA0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4

When you say level equalization are you talking about the frequency adjustment? Low pass being for subs, All pass (I think is what it's called) for basic speakers and high pass for tweeters?

And I know this is the complete wrong place for this question but it has been driving me nuts since I bought my car. I've barely been getting 23mpg around town and that's being nice is that normal? I've done the fuel and air filters, o2 sensor, oil changes regularly I need to check the plugs again but they were fine last year. I rarely use the A/C as well and everything I've done has helped I just feel like it should be better is all.

METDeath
05-29-2017, 11:42 AM
Level = deciBels (perceived volume observed by the listener)
Level equalization = making the two amplifiers output signals at the same perceived volume

On that head unit it has the correct number of outputs, it will also have a "Sub out" option that is on/off. It will typically have an adjustable low pass filter between 80 Hz & 150 Hz on Pioneer decks, the sub out will almost never be a full range output.

Your sub kit will technically work... I'd almost rather piece something together myself than buy a pre-made kit. However, I'm a bit of an audio snob (not full blown audiophile, I don't have that much money kicking around).
The other thing to be mindful of is if you are replacing the door 8" speakers that may get you the desired amount of bass. Between my door and rear speakers I don't feel the need for a sub box... granted, I have one waiting to be installed... but I can't quite bring myself to pull the trigger on actually installing it because it will eat my trunk... also probably my alternator.

Fuel economy: next time you are completely empty see if you can find ethanol free 87 (may have to hit up shell for their V-Power 91/93) and try that over the ethanol blended 87 octane.

jman91
05-29-2017, 04:59 PM
The speakers sound decent but the deck is just old. The buttons stick (I'm a bit particular and I hate sticky buttons) and it would be nice to have a USB input. The only reason I want to do the sub is because I have to wire in a new amp to keep the door speakers anyway and thought since I'll be in there I might as well. I just wish it was as simple as wiring in a new deck. As far as ethanol free gas goes I found a map of where they all are and it would be a pretty good drive to get some. I'll try running top tier 92 and see if that changes anything.

METDeath
05-30-2017, 02:35 AM
Biggest pro-tip I have for you are that there are several easy places to run power cable into the car on the passenger side, no drilling required, particularly if you are going to mount under the passenger seat. One thing to consider if you are going to run two amps is a single kit rated for both amplifiers that has a fused distribution block rated for each amplifier. Again, I would look at the KnuKonceptz eBay shop and go overboard on cable gauge (highest rated gauge per amplifier into a distribution block, highest rated gauge to the battery. More on this tomorrow when I'm not sleepy...

jman91
05-30-2017, 03:53 AM
I know roughly which amp kit I want to get. I agree with you on going overboard on the wire size. I think the kit I'm looking at has 1/0 awg wire which is pretty good sized.

METDeath
05-30-2017, 01:56 PM
Yeah... 1/0 is way over kill for whatever you might be putting in there. I ran the KnuKonceptz 4 gauge kit for my Apline 5 channel (around 600W as bench tested by Alpine). It came with a 80A fuse amp only needs 60A

4thgenceli
05-30-2017, 03:08 PM
My old GTS I had I relocated the battery to the cargo area and put a small system in there (single 10" subwoofer with a 600w amp). I ran a 1/0 cable from the B+ terminal up to the engine bay and then from a distribution block to 4gauge wires for fuse box, starter and alternator. I also used a 1/0 for a ground wire in the cargo area to the shock towers. I had another small power & ground distribution block in the back for the amp and other accessories (I ran all my gauge B+ to the cargo area). If I remember I used oen of those basic off-the-shelf amp install kits with i think a 10g or 12g B+ cable. Its now installed in my truck powering the same setup. I've been using this setup for like 6 years now without problems.

#cliffnotes

1/0 is way overkill for an amp B+

Shadowlife25
05-31-2017, 03:34 AM
My recommendations for continued future sound-related happiness:

Find a used (or old stock on ebay or amazon) Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit. It will do absolutely everything you could ever want sonically. It runs CD, all major music compression formats up to and including FLAC (Tested by me) has 6 outputs (Front/Rear/Sub)
a microphone for the self tune feature (which actually gets you pretty well in the ballpark of where you should be, amazingly enough) front microSD slot, 2 inputs in rear for USB thumbdrives, AUX input (1/8" standard headphone jack) can fully control AND CHARGE an iPod.
It has the most robust equalization and crossover system I have ever used outside of ultra high end $1,000 + head units.

This deck runs about $250 if you look around. (Retail new was about $350)

Any amplifier of your choosing with MINIMUM 4 channels. 5 channels if you REALLY want to run a single amp solution.
Follow my write up on doing exactly what you are looking to do. There are pictures and everything. :)

Run the fronts off the front channel on the HU and the Amp and the rears on the rear. (sounds obvious but I mention it for a reason)
Fronts include the tweeters which utilize a passive crossover (or choke if you will) so you only need to make the single connection to the main driver. Same applies to the rears.

My last bit of wisdom is going to sound bat-crap crazy but bear with me, ok? OK. Here we go.

Don't bother with the rear speakers.

Do not pass go, do not collect $200. Do not connect them at all. Period.

With the setup I described above, you WILL achieve the following:

Amazing depth of field
fantastic sound staging
pinpoint placement
Sonic bliss.
No really, I am serious. It's awesome.

So, if you choose to go that route, if you have a powerful enough 4 Channel, you can connect the fronts to the front and the Sub on the Sub channel at the deck.
Then, you bridge the subwoofer AT THE AMP.
Also, don't bother with the front under the dash speakers. They are made of a full 4 inches of fail and aids. Use the door drivers instead and link the tweeters to them. You will be happier.

Oh and in that part I mentioned earlier about the epic Crossovers in that deck? Yeah, you have low pass mid-low, Mid-high, and high pass. So yes, you can in fact have full band pass crossover capability from the HU. Like I said, epic level deck at a steal.

Hope this helps.

jman91
06-01-2017, 03:31 AM
Wow there sure are a lot of options. Thanks for all the input I'll look into that deck. Hopefully I can get things situated financially soon the sticky buttons are driving me nuts. I cuss at them almost every morning lol.

METDeath
06-02-2017, 12:56 PM
You can also just replace the deck and lose the doors until funds get better. If you go double din you just need the wire harness as the primary antenna uses the same connector as is used on pretty much every aftermarket radio. You do lose the diversity antenna regardless of what route you go though.

jman91
06-04-2017, 08:40 PM
that's honestly what I've been thinking about doing. A lot of what I'm hearing that sounds good seems to be coming from the rear speakers anyway. I really wouldn't be too upset if the antenna stopped extending I think it looks better inside the body.

jman91
06-06-2017, 12:28 AM
I bought a deck I ended up going with a Sony WX900BT. I'm installing it now

METDeath
06-06-2017, 03:06 AM
The diversity antenna is the one in the back glass, the retractable antenna is the one still connected. If you never plan to use the radio, don't connect the antenna wire from the radio wire harness to the aftermarket wire harness kit.

jman91
06-08-2017, 03:50 AM
I got it all installed there wasn't a wire labeled antenna on the new harness that I can remember but I plugged in the antenna cord to the radio and I get fm stations just fine. The antenna doesn't extend but that's okay. I'm surprised it actually sounds pretty good considering I lost the 2 door speakers. I looked into it and all the speakers except the tweeters have been replaced. I have a sub and really nice amp waiting to be installed. This amp could power the whole car if I wanted it to. I want to put an alarm in it first.

METDeath
06-08-2017, 11:53 AM
I got it all installed there wasn't a wire labeled antenna on the new harness that I can remember but I plugged in the antenna cord to the radio and I get fm stations just fine. The antenna doesn't extend but that's okay. I'm surprised it actually sounds pretty good considering I lost the 2 door speakers. I looked into it and all the speakers except the tweeters have been replaced. I have a sub and really nice amp waiting to be installed. This amp could power the whole car if I wanted it to. I want to put an alarm in it first.

It tends to be solid blue on standard aftermarket harnesses. It should be but shared by two pins on the car side harness. Our power antenna has a power enable and extend wire, so the Metra harness just puts the two together and it works fine, depending on the radio it may keep the antenna up though.

jman91
06-09-2017, 03:07 AM
The blue wire on the radio said remote so I didn't hook it up. I'll peak at it when I do the amp.

METDeath
06-09-2017, 10:17 AM
Oh right... some Sony radios don't have an antenna wire... so you'd need a switched 12V to drive it.

Also, that remote might be a blue with a white stripe, not solid blue.

Murgatroy
06-09-2017, 04:37 PM
The remote is just a switched 12v, it is the same difference as the antenna switch wire.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

METDeath
06-10-2017, 01:27 AM
The remote is just a switched 12v, it is the same difference as the antenna switch wire.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Except the remote turns on with the head unit, the antenna wire should only be 12V when the radio (AM/FM) is being used.

Murgatroy
06-10-2017, 01:43 AM
A simple nuance. It is a solution.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

jman91
06-11-2017, 03:07 AM
I'm really not too upset about the antenna not working lol. I think it looks better not extended and I only listen to fm radio in the mornings anyway.