View Full Version : Clutch doesn't fully disengage gears?

04-19-2017, 03:25 AM
Long story short the car has been mostly parked for the last 4+ years, I remember when I stopped driving it the throwout bearing was becoming noisy. Fast forward to now and the clutch pedal doesn't disengage the transmission fully. If I'm in neutral and try to put it in gear it grinds, if I start it in gear with the pedal in the clutch slips enough that the car won't move and as I let the pedal out things mesh and it moves along. I tried bleeding the clutch since that's easy enough and it didn't make a different. I know there's only so many pieces to this system but clutches and transmissions aren't my strong point so I don't want to go swapping the trans because of a bad master or something.

As I'm typing this I remember swapping a CV around when I parked it and I had to add some trans fluid, could low trans fluid do this?

04-19-2017, 03:45 AM
I would start with the T/O bearing since you knew it to be noisy. If it is properly bled that would be one of the next items on the list, as well as the master cylinder.

04-19-2017, 06:05 AM
Check the hydraulics. Sounds like there isn't enough throw to disengage the clutch.

04-19-2017, 08:54 PM
Check the hydraulics. Sounds like there isn't enough throw to disengage the clutch.


04-24-2017, 04:28 PM
I would start with the T/O bearing

Sounds cracked

04-24-2017, 05:26 PM
I'd have someone depress the clutch while you watch the slave to see how much it is moving. If you have a spare that's easy enough to swap out. A master cylinder issue is possible but less frequent.

However if I were betting, I'd be betting that the trans needs to come off and inspect the T/O, and possibly the clutch itself. It could be seized or sticking from sitting.

I'd start with the hydraulics just because they are easier.

04-25-2017, 07:03 PM
Check slave to see if it has retracted. The clutch "spring" should push against TO and that on the lever to the slave. If need be, unbolt the slave from the body (leave hydraulic pipe connected) and see if the lever finishes its travel. If so, then slave or master needs rebuild.

If no travel, but lots of looseness in the lever, then clutch problems.

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04-26-2017, 04:10 AM
Awesome, thanks for all the info guys! I might have a spare slave, I definitely have a spare TOB and clutch if needed. I'm not sure how far the slave is supposed to move, I assume it should be roughly the same as my GTFour? I'll probably snap some pics and post them up to get your input either way.

04-28-2017, 11:07 PM
Heres how I troubleshoot something like this. It isnt the easiest, and it is kinda messy but it works.

To me, clutch systems are absolute. Shit either works or it dont. So you start by isolating each thing down to a part.

Your clutch disks job is to transfer power from flywheel to transmission.
Your clutches pressure plates job is to quit the power transfer to the transmission so you can shift gears
Your TOBs job is to push in on the pressure plate so it does its job
Your clutch forks job is to transfer the slave cylinder force to the TOB so the TOB can do its job
Your slave cylinders job is to transfer force to the clutch fork
Your hydraulic lines are there to send force from the master
The master is there to send force from your foot
Your foot engages the whole thing.

So, knowing how that all works, I break it down. So to start, if I cant shift with my clutch in, I know I either have a clutch system problem, or a transmission system problem.

The first thing Ill do is remove the clutch from the equation. Ill get a place where I can start the car in gear. It helps to have a nice warmed up engine to do this. So Ill put the car in first gear and start it and give it gas as it catches and start going. If that works, and the car accelerates normal, Ill do some "clutchless shifts". If Im able to nicely shift gears without a clutch (you can google it, its a thing) then Ive isolated the clutch disk and the transmission.

If the clutch disk works, the pressure plate and TOB likely works too.

So in my experience, if you can shift without a clutch, start it without a clutch, and the gears work and everything is OK, then your issue is hydraulic. If your transmission still wont shift or it wont start without a clutch, then you got shit wrong inside there.

06-22-2017, 06:19 PM
I was finally able to get back to this problem, I've driven it without the clutch before when it got really cold (for some reason the clutch wouldn't work until things had warmed up) so I'm used to doing that. I measuring the slave on my GTFour and it extends about 1/2" when the pedal is fully depressed, on the GTS it only extended about 1/4". I figure there's two possible next steps, try to move the fork manually to see if it's the internals that are stopping the slave from extending (which I assume will be difficult given the leverage available), or unbolt the slave and see if it will extend fully or not with no resistance.

07-01-2017, 03:22 PM
Did you figure it out? I'd like to know. Thanks!

07-01-2017, 07:27 PM
Not yet, I've spent the last week fixing my Jeep so this week I'll be fixing the Celica.

07-10-2017, 07:59 AM
Oh, okay then. Just keep us posted, thank you!

05-09-2018, 06:34 AM
Check if the clutch fork is locked in its pivot point or not.

05-10-2018, 05:47 AM
I ended up swapping the clutch and flywheel with my spare and putting in a new TOB, I don't know for sure if it was the disc or the TOB but two of the springs on the disc were broken and rattling around.

05-11-2018, 06:27 AM
I ended up swapping the clutch and flywheel with my spare and putting in a new TOB, I don't know for sure if it was the disc or the TOB but two of the springs on the disc were broken and rattling around.

Yeah, that'll do it.