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View Full Version : Weird problem, New angle



90ToyAllTrac
10-09-2015, 03:29 PM
I thought maybe if I described the issue a new way might get some ideas on what the cause is.

Ever since I did the JDM swap (91 engine, 92 ECU) on my 90 All Trac this happens intermittently only while driving. The engine and/or the whole car will go ka-chunk like a hiccup and the CEL will go on for few minutes then the CEL will turn off with no fanfair. It feels like the something got caught in the drive chain for a spit second or like the engine stopped running for less than a tenth of a second. It has been suggested that maybe a problem with the fuel injector(s) but I dont think so because it NEVER does it when idling, the clutch is in, or in neutral. Even if I rev the engine in neutral for a long time. It ONLY does it when its "in gear" driving. And I can't pull the code while the CEL is on because its never on more than few minutes and Im not paying the dealership hundreds of dollars. Otherwise it runs and drives great and is dependable. It might even have done it before the swap I cant remember. So not counting out debit in the rear diff?

In short:
1 while driving car goes ka-chunk, CEL goes on
2 CEL goes off
3 only does it In Gear while driving
4 no other common factors, weather, engine temp, moon phase, etc.

Thats the new clue. Only does it In gear while driving. Thoughts?
Thanks,

Shadowlife25
10-09-2015, 08:58 PM
Do you get a code from the CEL? If so, which code is it?
Do you have a Dyno tuner anywhere near with an AWD Dyno? If the issue is only occurring under load conditions, that might be a good place to get it sorted.
Is the "thunk" sound mechanical? (Do you feel it hit something) or is it just a sound and then the engine cuts out?
Rent a set of noid lights and test your injectors.
Check the wire sleeving around the knock sensor to make sure there are no breaks anywhere.
Double check that all of the wiring to the ECU is in good order.

90ToyAllTrac
10-10-2015, 03:41 PM
Do you get a code from the CEL? If so, which code is it?
Do you have a Dyno tuner anywhere near with an AWD Dyno? If the issue is only occurring under load conditions, that might be a good place to get it sorted.
Is the "thunk" sound mechanical? (Do you feel it hit something) or is it just a sound and then the engine cuts out?
Rent a set of noid lights and test your injectors.
Check the wire sleeving around the knock sensor to make sure there are no breaks anywhere.
Double check that all of the wiring to the ECU is in good order.

There is a physical mechanicle thunk. can feel it through the steering wheel and floor. But it is not extreme at all. Like hitting a small bird. The knock sensor is a good idea. Thanks. On CEL its impossible to get code because thiers no obd1 tool near here except dealership. The part store generic ones are worthless. Ive tried them.

Shadowlife25
10-12-2015, 01:46 AM
On CEL its impossible to get code because thiers no obd1 tool near here except dealership. The part store generic ones are worthless. Ive tried them.

The only "OBDI Tool" that exists goes by many names, but the most common is "Paper Clip". ;)

Seriously, there is no special tool. Use a small paper clip and bridge the pins on the check connector under the hood.
From there all you do is count the blinks and pauses and match those numbers up to the codes listed in the BGB.

Another option (The one I opted for years back) is to wire in a toggle switch to the cabin that lets you check codes and enter diagnostic mode from your seat. There should be a write up on it here on the boards.
Here it is:
http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?17176-Easy-Diagnostic-Mode-THROW-AWAY-YOUR-PAPER-CLIP!

locker
10-14-2015, 12:50 PM
FYI you bridge TE1 and E1 to get the codes

90ToyAllTrac
10-14-2015, 02:35 PM
The only "OBDI Tool" that exists goes by many names, but the most common is "Paper Clip". ;)

Seriously, there is no special tool. Use a small paper clip and bridge the pins on the check connector under the hood.
From there all you do is count the blinks and pauses and match those numbers up to the codes listed in the BGB.

Another option (The one I opted for years back) is to wire in a toggle switch to the cabin that lets you check codes and enter diagnostic mode from your seat. There should be a write up on it here on the boards.
Here it is:
http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?17176-Easy-Diagnostic-Mode-THROW-AWAY-YOUR-PAPER-CLIP!

The actual Toyota OBDI tool, Ive heard is most likely to be able to pull the code. Jumping the terminals with a switch is an awesome idea! One of the E1 or TE1 pins in the diag box is busted so Id have to pull the wire out anyway. But the last time I tried to count the blinks on my 4runner I found it Impossible to count the blinks correctly.

UtahSleeper
10-15-2015, 03:53 PM
Could it be the transmission? Something getting stuck, then putting resistance on the motor and causing the code? I am just guessing.

90ToyAllTrac
10-19-2015, 04:52 PM
Could it be the transmission? Something getting stuck, then putting resistance on the motor and causing the code? I am just guessing.

I have thought of that too. Either debris in the trans or rear diff. It feels like it could be something like that.

90ToyAllTrac
10-27-2015, 03:35 PM
Yesterday I had to take it on a road trip. Because of the knock sensor idea I filled it with 89 octane instead of usual 87 octane. Leaving town and entering town it did the usual behavior ka-chunk and CEL but on the road for 300 miles it didn't do it once! It did the ka-chunk a couple times when slowing down to go through small towns but no CEL. I also realized that all the sensors on that engine and exhaust were made for Japan and Canada markets respectively. Next time I will try 91 octane and see what happens.

ChrisD
10-27-2015, 06:55 PM
On a 3S-GTE you should definitely be using a minimum of 91 octane regardless.

Since the CEL is flashing is probably registering a code. Getting that code would be really helpful.

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

90ToyAllTrac
10-28-2015, 02:04 PM
On a 3S-GTE you should definitely be using a minimum of 91 octane regardless.

Since the CEL is flashing is probably registering a code. Getting that code would be really helpful.

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

I'm hoping that 91 octane will help the in town driving. As to the code a pin in the Diagnostic plug box is busted so can't get the code. Ive been meaning to pull the wire so I can jump it and get the code. But Ive been working on my Mustangs all summer. Since Project Ako runs and drives it hasn't been a priority. Thanks,