View Full Version : Upgrade Harmony's factory speakers

09-06-2015, 07:46 PM
I spend a lot of time commuting, so I am thinking about upgrading the speakers in Harmony. Due the the massive integration of her stereo, I don't want to replace it, it would require an adapter kit for the HVAC and I don't like any of them I have seen.

I have 6x8" speakers front and rear. It isn't an upgraded system, just the base four speaker system. I am not above putting some subs in, but that is not in the cards right now. Or at least it isn't the plan before I get into it.

I am thinking that it would be best to do 6x8" adapters and install some components up front. I am not sure what to do about the rear. I am also thinking of lining the doors with some sound deadening material.

I have been out of the audio game so long, I don't know who or what is good. I want a full range speaker/component that will have enough ass to give me great sound off of the factory head unit and not require a separate amp.

I am willing to go up to $100 a set, but would obviously be good with cheaper if they are just as good of quality.


09-06-2015, 08:57 PM
Infinity's are pretty cheap and fit your description and are decent sounding without being power hungry, depending on the model.

The key to whatever you choose is that you want something that has a high efficiency rating and an RMS rating at least equal to what the factory head unit puts out.
Bass performance is going to be an inverse function of size(diameter) and Xmax(the linear throw of the speaker motor). I won't get into enclosures since you are staying stock, but that plays a part as well.

If you really want better performance from the system and are willing to give it a go, I would recommend leaving everything as-is and installing some sound deadening. You would be pleasantly surprised at the difference it can make.
I prefer BXTII and Ensolite combo myself. They have proven themselves to me. If you can find a decent deal on Dynamat and some other closed cell foam product to layer over it, then go for that instead.

If you do go the sound deadening route you will add some weight (negligible) but you will make the cabin quieter and definitely the music will sound better as a result of reduced extraneous vibrations and reflections.

I hope this helps you out some brother and if you have any questions feel free to ask. There are a few of us audio nuts on here. :D

09-06-2015, 11:34 PM
I love Infinity, but I have found that without subs, they lack any bottom end.

Would just putting sound deadening on the doors only be worthwhile? I don't really feel like removing the interior.

How do I find the power output of the stock head unit?

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09-07-2015, 12:40 AM
Power output of the factory system should be listed in the literature or sales brochure for the car. It would be under the options package listed in the radio section.

I would honestly do the deadening before I did anything else. I think it is definitely worth doing. It will cut down on road noise in the cabin, allow you to seal up some areas that are not already sealed and let you get better low and midrange from your stock drivers as a result. If you layer some closed cell foam product over top of it, it will be again improved. Doing only the front doors is a fine start and you should notice a good improvement.
Typical areas that deadening is applied are doors, firewall area and select sections of the floor pan.
Best way to see where it should be applied is to tap on the surfaces and see where they resonate or have a hollow sound. Then apply your deadening. It is simplest to target areas and not waste entire sheets of material if you cut the deadening into 6" squares. Makes application a LOT simpler and faster as well. You don't spend your time fighting the sheet itself and are able to get it where you need it.
You will have to remove your interior to do this, but if you have a free day and a set of panel popping and trim removal tools ($15 on Amazon) and the basic socket set that I know you already own, it will be short work. You will also want a "Dynamat roller" to help you apply things firmly for proper adhesion.
I also use some high grade rubbing alcohol to wipe down the surfaces where the damping is being applied. As a result of this prep, I have never had it peel away or fail, so something to keep in mind.
I think doing this and perhaps even adding one of those Infinity amplified subs would suit you perfectly. David said they performed surprisingly well and they also are on Amazon for about $110 all the time. **(EDIT**
It seems that they only carry the new one that is listed at $167.95 now. Ask David about the model that he has. You may be able to find it on ebay cheaply as it is a few years old.
The only thing you would need to add the powered sub would be a line level converter. They usually run about $25 for the standard types. These allow you to tap in to a rear speaker signal and pass it along to an amplifier. It doesn't degrade the performance of the speaker in any way, so you should have no worries there.

09-07-2015, 08:16 PM
Yeah, with most modern cars too... The speakers that come with them aren't great, but they aren't as shitty as they used to be either. I'd go with the sound deadening first too.

Otherwise the I like the Infinity Reference line also, for your description. Granted I did have those WITH subs.

09-07-2015, 08:48 PM
Deadening does a whole lot for the driving experience. Cutting down on road noise is a big one.
Most luxury cars are as quiet as they are because they do extensive deadening from the factory.
They use a much thicker and more dense jute padding on the floors.
they also make use of butyl based constrained layer damping materials throughout.
Also in doors they make use of Jute padding and foam blocks to act as isolation barriers to prevent panel rattles.

If done properly and with some patience, most cars can reach that level of quiet interior.