View Full Version : So, the engine in my 7th gen is hurting

08-25-2015, 08:31 PM
I started puffing a little smoke on Saturday, so we took her to my buddy's and pulled out the compression tester:
150 165 145 120

for the 2zz, 145 is minimum, 185 is optimal, and 205 is maximum.

With oil they all jump back up into the 180-190 range, this makes me think bad rings.

Since this is a daily driver I don't really have time to have it down to pull engine apart and replace the rings, I also don't know if the coating on the cylinders is damaged or not and my reading has led me to believe if it is damaged in anyway that's the end of the short block.

So, I'm thinking the best option is to buy a low mileage engine with a warranty and just swap it. I've got friends local with 2ZZ cars, and we've pulled and replaced a number of 2ZZ's already. We could have that swap done in a day.

This leaves me with two questions.
1. Does anyone have suggestions for good engine companies?
2. Does anyone have suggestions for upgrades to do to the engine before installation?

08-26-2015, 02:17 AM
Honestly, standard engine checking procedures are fine. Ideally if you get a used engine, it's always good form to do a rebuild on it before it goes in. If you're able to do that... I mean it's a timing chain, so that's not really a big deal. The water pump and PS pump can be a pain in the nuts to get to unless you do it before you put the engine in. Always make sure to change the lift bolts, do a good clean, and get new gaskets. There isn't really anything specific to the 2zz to upgrade before it goes in unless you anticipate boosting it later.

08-26-2015, 02:27 AM
If you get a warrantied engine, if you tear into it, you just voided the warranty.

Just a heads up.

08-26-2015, 02:46 AM
If you get a warrantied engine, if you tear into it, you just voided the warranty.

Just a heads up.
Along with this there's a high possibility you'll need a certified mechanic to install it.

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08-26-2015, 03:10 AM
Along with this there's a high possibility you'll need a certified mechanic to install it.

That's a good point, I don't have access to a ASE mechanic anymore.

08-26-2015, 05:40 AM
I just went on car-part.com and found the lowest mileage 2zz I could that came from an AUTO. For me, that was a requirement, as it meant it would have never had the chance of being misshifted.

Unfortunately the fucking things are still expensive as fuck. I paid 2k for mine. It burns my ass to pay that much for an engine. Came with a 30 day warranty, and I got them to give it to me in writing that if I installed it myself, I wouldnt void the warranty.

7th Gen GTS is one of the easiest engine swaps you will ever do. There are a few "tricks" you need to do, but overall, its a piece of cake.

08-26-2015, 07:43 AM
I can get a JDM import for less than that wth 40K on it. Buuuuuuuuut, I'd have to modify it for EGR, since my state requires emissions tests (and I'm due for one in December).

08-26-2015, 08:54 PM
Theres no EGR on a 2zz bro. They do what they need to with VVT...

08-26-2015, 08:56 PM
Well, that makes using a JDM engine much more attractive. Especially when I can get one with ~40k kilometers delivered for $1500

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08-26-2015, 09:02 PM
I think the later 7th gens had "smog pumps" but 2000, 2001, 2002 Im PRETTY sure dont have EGR on them. Ill look at the diagrams in the book.

08-26-2015, 09:06 PM
Just confirmed. Your car doesnt have EGR or any sort of air injection smog type pump.

You can use a JDM 2ZZ no problems. Nothing is different about the engine.

08-26-2015, 09:07 PM
That is awesome. Now I just need to convince them to send me the one that had the AT on it

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09-04-2015, 01:08 PM
We need ben to get in here.

09-04-2015, 01:52 PM
Ive been in here. I agree with a used engine, even with an auto though. Check the lift bolts before you install it.

09-08-2015, 07:36 PM
If your car is later than 2001, you will need to swap out a couple sensors onto a JDM engine as they all have the early electronics (like single wire knock sensor, cable throttle etc.).

I would do lift bolts, thermostat, flush the block really well to get rid of gross old coolant, and use a new valve cover gasket. Might not be a bad idea to do the VVT actuator (intake cam sprocket) as they tended to have wear issues on the early model years. Water pump wouldn't be a bad idea either, as well as any gaskets you are worried about like the 2 front covers and front main. Also do the rear main for sure, and the spark plugs. Might not be a terrible idea to get the injectors cleaned.

The timing chain should be good - just check for unusual wear on the slippers and tensioner.

09-08-2015, 07:39 PM
I fortunately have a 2001, so that simplifies the electronics. I've got lift bolts and spark plugs, but you're probably right about the seals being easier to do with the engine out, I need to order some things from lithia anyway

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