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View Full Version : Anyone in Phoenix want to drive my Alltrac?



90GT2
11-05-2014, 06:32 PM
Hey guys
I was wondering if there was a member in/near Phoenix Az that could help me diagnose a few issues I have been having with my 93 Alltrac. I was hoping maybe an experienced member could simply listen to and drive the car around a bit to help me diagnose some of the issues.

A few of the issues include:
High pitched vibration/whine when driving
Clunk when I accelerate or let off the gas quickly (especially apparent in first gear)
Slight idle issue but it is hard to describe, kind of like its slightly losses power every few seconds then picks up slightly
Oil leak - thinking its the rear main seal
Potentially running rich

I have looked into some of the more obvious causes for these issues but have not been able to diagnose anything definitively. The car generally runs good and I drive it every day but I don't want to wait for something to break before I resolve these problems. Basically I am at the point where the next step is to start throwing parts at it and pray. As you all know that can get expensive.

Starting next week I have three weeks off school so if anyone could find some time to help me out I can meet up when/where ever you would like. Worst case scenario you at least get to drive someone else Alltrac which is always fun :laugh:

4thgenceli
11-05-2014, 06:44 PM
Phoenix?

Where's that?

4thgenceli
11-05-2014, 06:51 PM
Just reading what you said there here's my thoughts.


Vibration/whine. Any idea where it's coming from (louder on left or right, front, rear, etc).

Clunking when decelerating - motor mounts. Chances are teh front and/or rear mounts are shot.

Funky idle issue - check timing, plugs & wires. Could just be a simple tune up needed.


Oil leak - What makes you think it's from the rear main?

What's 'potentially running rich' mean? How did you come to that?


From what you said, I think a basic tune up would do good for it. Plugs, wires, cap, yadda yadda yadda.

METDeath
11-05-2014, 08:09 PM
Your clunking is almost certainly motor mounts...

If you don't care about comfort and want something that will last, get solid poly motor mounts. However, your car will vibrate a lot at idle... girls will like it though.

4thgenceli
11-05-2014, 08:30 PM
I didn't notice a change when I had the poly mounts vs. rubber.

90GT2
11-05-2014, 09:13 PM
Vibration/whine. Any idea where it's coming from (louder on left or right, front, rear, etc).


Its difficult to tell but my best guess is the front. The vibration is actually more of a hum and decreases when I corner hard left. Thinking it might be wheel bearings I jacked up the front end to see if I felt any lateral play in the wheels but they were solid. I took off the wheels and rotor to visually inspect everything as best I could but did not notice anything out of place. I also put on a extra set of wheels I had laying around to see if it was a balance issue, bent wheel or abnornal wear on the tires. Swapping the wheels made no difference. That said my extra wheels are not in the greatest of shape so I may need to look into this again.


Clunking when decelerating - motor mounts. Chances are the front and/or rear mounts are shot.


Initially I figured the clunk was classic rear diff mount failure so I ordered a solid aluminum rear diff mount and figured while I was at it might as well redo the rubber rear subframe mounts with poly. Once I got the rear end in the air it appeared the rear diff mount was actually in pretty good condition compared to others I have changed. The subframe mounts also appear fairly intact although I realize it is likely difficult to properly diagnose shot subframe mount simply from looking at them.

Thinking it might be a motor mount issue I swaped in a set of poly filled north south crossmember motor mounts I had laying around and that to made little noticeable difference. Those mounts might be shot as well but I feel like it is unlikely. I have not touched the east west motor mounts yet as im not sure I have a spare set in my parts hord. I also had the north south crossmember off recently and inspected the crossmember to chassis bushings and they appeared intact.

I agree it feels like the motor is rocking but I just dont know what specifically to do next


Funky idle issue - check timing, plugs & wires. Could just be a simple tune up needed.


Recently checked timing with my timing light and it is bang on BGB specs. Plugs where changed about a month ago and gapped according to BGB. Wires are Magnacore and little over a year old. I was planning on replacing the cap and rotor next but no one local has them in stock so im going to have to order them. I was not going to replace the wires yet but if you guys think that is part of the problem I will.


Oil leak - What makes you think it's from the rear main?


Originally found a valve cover and distributor leak so I replaced the valve cover gasket and rebuilt the distributor with all new seals. That fixed those leaks but the dripping continued. A month ago I removed both crossmembers, exhaust, and prop shaft and throughly cleaned the under side of the engine/engine bay. It does not appear any part of the turbo or turbo hardlines are leaking or any leaks around the oil cooler. I then discovered oil leaking from where the trans bolts to the block, removed the boot around the clutch release fork and could feel caked on oil all inside the bellhousing, so I figured that meant it is likely a rear main seal.


What's 'potentially running rich' mean? How did you come to that?


Just a hunch at this point, it sometimes has a strongish fuel smell upon start up and lasts for a little while but goes away. When I got the car originally I removed the wideband in an attempt to diagnose and fix a feedback issue in the speakers when the head lights turned on. I decided to remove everything electrical the previous owner added on and then slowly reinstall everything correctly one item at a time. At this point I have only reinstalled the cd deck and boost controller. When I the wideband was installed it only worked part of the time, it would keep saying it was calibrating and then sometimes it would work fine. At this point I guess I dont really have enough info to determine if this is even an actual problem

90GT2
11-05-2014, 09:20 PM
I also have a wobble in my alternator belt. Im not sure if it is within normal operation limits but it was noticeable enough to make me wonder. I did tighten the belt to be sure that was not the problem and the alternator was recently replaced although the wobble was present before that change was made. I just want to make sure its not something more serous I need to be worried about like an engine or pulley balance issue.

Basically I dont have another alltrac to compare to so I dont know what normal sounds/ looks like for this car. There is other things im wondering about but figured I would start with this and work through each issue in order of priority.

4thgenceli
11-05-2014, 09:30 PM
I'll take a romp with you in it if you'd like. What part of the valley are you in anyway?

90GT2
11-05-2014, 09:42 PM
Im near Bell rd and N 43 Ave. I have one more final on Friday them im off for three weeks so let me know when would work best for you.

4thgenceli
11-05-2014, 10:00 PM
Shit. You're pretty close to me. I'm out by Arrowhead (83rd/Thunderbird).

90GT2
11-05-2014, 10:32 PM
Cool ill send you a pm with my contact info.

The Captain
11-09-2014, 05:14 PM
Idle issue could be the idle air control valve. Triple check all clamps and hoses between the AFM and the engine (ask me how I know, LOL) Any air leak can cause the idle/rich issues you describe.

4thgenceli
11-10-2014, 04:29 PM
Yeah...I think you should start a project thread with that beast sitting in the garage.

Luni
11-10-2014, 11:50 PM
Rich condition at startup almost undoubtedly caused by cold start injector time switch.

If it runs properly and it doesnt have any issues with cold starts, I dont know that Id even give a crap about that.

90GT2
11-11-2014, 02:35 AM
Idle issue could be the idle air control valve. Triple check all clamps and hoses between the AFM and the engine (ask me how I know, LOL) Any air leak can cause the idle/rich issues you describe.

I remember reading about that somewhere. Ill look into the valve and I should probably fab up some kind of leak tester and see if there is an vac leaks.


Rich condition at startup almost undoubtedly caused by cold start injector time switch.

If it runs properly and it doesn't have any issues with cold starts, I dont know that Id even give a crap about that.

I wonder if I could just disconnect the cold start injector or at least the switch as I dont think it will ever get cold enough here in Arizona to really need it.

90GT2
11-11-2014, 02:48 AM
Yeah...I think you should start a project thread with that beast sitting in the garage.

lol ya I know. I have been wanting to for ages but every time I try to start I get overwhelmed with trying to find a way to adequately write about the whole process....10 years, likely tens of thousands of dollars, 2 gts, 2 3s fwd swaps, 2 alltracs, and 2 2000+ mile trips later and it feels like this has been such a massive part of my life for better or worse. I just want to do the whole journey justice. As it sits right now there are days where I just want to part it all out and be done, then I have good days where I love my celicas. Before I started school I had tons of time to work on the cars and as a result went down the slippery slope of " well because A is out I might as well do B, and since im doing B I should upgrade C, and D, E, and F, and and and .......", now that im in school I dont have the time but as the car sits Im not at a point that I could easily or quickly finish it. So the car sits in the garage and is towed from place to place most recently from Canada down to Arizona. Sigh I guess I should just start a project thread then I can relate the whole experience.

4thgenceli
11-11-2014, 02:53 AM
Well...um..ya know I am looking for a powerplant :P


I'd leave that CSI connected as well. It'll help with the cold starts in the mornings.

Luni
11-11-2014, 07:44 PM
Cold start is a term, not a measure of temperature. When the engine is "cold" meaning NOT up to operating temp, the ECU uses that injector to enrich the fuel so it starts easier.

If its causing you issues with fuel econ, you could try disabling it and see how the car runs without it.