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90ToyAllTrac
04-18-2014, 01:12 AM
94 Celica GT. Drove home fine last weekend, next day has juice but wont start. Starter doesnt even twitch. Figured it might be the starter. I have eliminated the battery has full charge. Made sure the clutch pedal is hitting the cutoff switch. Removed the starter and tested by jumping the battery to it and it worked. I noticed that when I turn the key the check engine light does not come on in any position. Which seems odd. So only thing I can think of now is to check all the fuses tomorrow but barring that any ideas? Thanks!

lamont
04-18-2014, 01:49 AM
This happened to me when I first purchased my 6th Gen. Turned out to be a bad distributor that would blow a fuse in the main fuse block AM2 fuse I believe. I had to replace the distributor and the problem went away. HTH

90ToyAllTrac
04-18-2014, 08:02 PM
Yup it was the AM2 fuse. Good call! Do you remember when you did that did you also replace the ignition coil thats inside the distributor or use the old one? I replaced the ingition coil just couple years ago. And heres a dumb question , the AM2 fuse is a 30amp fuse. Did you toy with the idea of trying a 40a or 50a fuse just to see if it would hold without burning out anything?

lamont
04-18-2014, 09:30 PM
It's actually a short in the ignition coil itself that blows the fuse. So replacing the ignition coil should fix the problem. I wouldn't try raising the fuse resistance, that could lead to some serious problems like a meltdown or even a fire. I found a cheap replacement distributor so I went that route.

Nitro_Alltrac
04-19-2014, 12:55 AM
Yea, you don't really want to up the fuse amperage. 30 amps is pretty stout and if it is blowing you really need to find the problem. As you probably already know the fuse is there to prevent big problems on down the line. You up it to 50 amps, the fuse might hold but you might very well find the next weak leak and end the process burn the car to the ground.

90ToyAllTrac
04-19-2014, 02:13 AM
Yeah, thats what I thought. Just a crazy thought. But still dont know if i should replace the distributor or the ignition coil. Assuming they dont come together. They are listed seperate on rockauto.com.

Shadowlife25
04-19-2014, 05:33 AM
I picked up a whole new distributor from an online auto wrecker some years back. It came complete. Installed and fired right up no issues since 5 years later.
Car-Part.com (http://www.Car-Part.com) is who I used, I think.

And yes, NEVER use a fuse with a higher amperage rating than what is called for. Remember that a fuse with say a 20 amp rating usually won't blow until it has had around ~30 A pushed into it. So if you double that rating, it's really gonna suck when it blows because it will take a nice big chunk of your harness with it.

Shadowlife25
04-19-2014, 05:36 AM
Ran a quick search and just selected MidWest for the region.
Least expensive is about $60 and most expensive is $240.
All the phone numbers are listed and it seems that they have a decent selection, so best of luck. :)

90ToyAllTrac
04-19-2014, 11:20 PM
Ok I took the ignition coil to napa and put a tester on a new out of the box one. It tests exactly the same as the old one. So it appears to be fine. They looked at the schematic on thier computer and suggested checking the distributor condenser first since thats only a $5 part. ask.com said a condenser should read 200 ohms. Mine reads zero. But Im still pretty clueless when it comes to testing for ohms. Yes I did an engine trans swap and had to repin wiring harness on my all trac but I know nothing about ohms as yet. So if this condenser is reading zero should risk $5 and the time of puting it all back together? Since the ignition coil tested same as a new one. ? Thanks,

Shadowlife25
04-20-2014, 03:13 AM
Ohms = Resistance.
Should be fairly self explanatory as far as the setting and range on your meter.
If it should read 200 Ohms and yours truly reads zero, then yes, buy the $5 and give it a go.

90ToyAllTrac
04-20-2014, 04:50 AM
The ignition coil tested zero ohms and so did the brand new one. And my old distributor condenser tested zero. At least one of these components should have some resistance otherwise they are not doing anything. So I guess Ill get a new $5 distributor condensor and put it all back together and see if it works. Ugh. Nothing would surprise me at this point.

90ToyAllTrac
04-20-2014, 08:50 PM
Does anyone know how to test the secondary igniter coil module thats mounted on the firewall?

Shadowlife25
04-21-2014, 01:21 AM
http://www.celicatech.com/bgbonline/90alltrac/IG/IG.htm

That link above if to help you see where to look in the BGB.

And here is a photo. { http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/5/8/0/ig-8.jpg (http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=23698)http://www.celicatech.com/forums/<a href=http://&quot;http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=23698&quot; target=_blank>[IMG]http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/5/8/0/ig-8.jpghttp://www.celicatech.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=23698&c=9

90ToyAllTrac
04-21-2014, 09:01 PM
A friend of mine said hes never seen a coil problem where the starter didnt turn. So he suggested starting with the ignition switch. Trying to get the lock cylinder out now just to look at it. Theres about 6 inch wire harness between the ignition switch and the chassis harness and the plug has a sticker that says Tercel/Paseo. ?on my celica? Has anyone ever seen the ignition switch burn out that AM2 fuse or anything else besided the distributor and coil?

MrWOT
04-21-2014, 09:12 PM
Check efi fuse. Try jumping the solenoid at the starter. Disconnect clutch switch and jump connection.

bloodMoney
04-21-2014, 09:16 PM
Are your grounds all ok? Abby fried her ground wire on the passenger side strut tower to the head and it caused a no start condition. I replaced it with a 4 gauge ground cable and never had a problem again.

90ToyAllTrac
04-23-2014, 02:37 AM
94 celica GT 2.2ltr manual non california. The distributer condenser seemed to test bad so replacing that. Also since it was a slow time the napa guy printed out their better than chiltons diagrams and went over the whole system with me. Said to pull the ST fuse and the IGN fuse and try it. Then pull the blk/org and blk/wht wires on ignition switch and test it. and that will narrow it down to fuel injectors or ignition switch respectively. Will post results.

Facime
04-23-2014, 03:36 AM
Im confused. Whats the problem currently? I it, A) The starter doesnt turn, or B) the starter turns but wont start, or C) the main fuse blows every time you try to start it?

if A then the neither the coil, condensor or distributor has anything to do with it. first verify 12V at the main power wire on the starter, then take a small jumper wire and briefly jump the main power wire on the starter to the small wire terminal on the starter solenoid. Starter should rotate, if not replace/rebuild starter.

if B then start by checking for spark at the plugs then work your way back to the dizzy

if C then you are looking for a hard short in a wire somewhere. Look for any wire bundles that might be chaffing on a hard metal edge or where they go through the body.

90ToyAllTrac
04-24-2014, 02:12 AM
The starter is good. The AM2 fuse blows every time I turn the key. New info, the new distributor condenser reads full resistance ohms 1. the old one reads zero. so im hoping it will start with that installed.

90ToyAllTrac
04-25-2014, 03:09 AM
OK so I ordered a new distributor capacitor condenser. And it read full resistance, and the old one read zero resistance. So I felt hopefull put it all back together and it started A FK number one.! So kick ass! the 207k 94 celica is back in buisness.