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muscle_bound89@Live.com
03-23-2014, 05:43 PM
This thing is being a pain in the ass to remove.
I tried using the 3 jaw puller that didn't work
then tried using the harmonic balancer puller itself and the key holes in the pulley where the screws go. Well the threads were so rusted and corroded that the puller pulled the screws out.

anyone have an idea how to remove it. Ill be getting a new balancer and installing it once removed.

BlueDragon
03-24-2014, 03:06 PM
Sounds to me like you need some PB Penetrating catalyst. Spray that in where your pulley contacts the crank and let it soak a long time. If that does not do it you may need to heat it up with a torch. I am not sure what all you could hurt by heating it up too much but it seems to be connected to enough other metal to heat sink it away that it would be ok. Anyone else want to chime in?? I just had the most stuck CV nut ever and had to PB it then torch it then WD it and torch it and torch it till the corrosion was bubbling out with the WD when it began to turn to gas, after breaking 2 huge screw drivers and a 17 inch and 2 5/8 end wrenches and a Half inch extension it finally came loose. Also maybe a little impact action on that 3 way puller might help after you soak it...
BTW I think I have an extra balancer if you end up FUBARing yours let me know!

muscle_bound89@Live.com
03-25-2014, 10:21 AM
Is the balancer new? I can get one off amazon or ebay for like 50 bucks.

BlueDragon
03-25-2014, 02:45 PM
No its not new... I think it has a small chip in it like most do but it works fine still. 25 shipped

KoreanJoey
03-26-2014, 09:49 AM
Retap the threads for a larger bolt.

Facime
03-26-2014, 07:47 PM
yeah use a harmonic dampner puller and retap the threads or thread all the way through and put nuts behind.

Murgatroy
04-02-2014, 07:31 PM
And/or torch it.

Luni
04-04-2014, 09:13 PM
Dont torch it to much or youll bork your seal.

Ive never had one I couldnt get off with a 3 jaw puller and some PB. Id prolly skip the torch and use some PB and a heat gun. Heat gun can get that bitch hot as hell.

If you have the time and patience to yank it with the steering wheel puller it should come off relatively easy, retap if you gotta. Otherwise I just use a 2 or 3 jaw puller.

muscle_bound89@Live.com
04-11-2014, 07:38 PM
Finally got it off. have to put like a socket to keep it from screwing into the shaft. came right off.

Funkycheeze
04-11-2014, 11:37 PM
Good to hear, those can be a pain. And you don't want to screw the shaft =P

As a side note, replace it with a new (or good condition) stock style harmonic dampener pulley. Don't use one of those stupid one piece underdrive pulleys as they will fuck your crank bearings.

Also use a new woodruff key in the crank, and make sure everything is nice and clean (and rust free) before reassembly. I put a tiny bit of anti seize on the crank nose before installing the pulley to avoid future removal problems.

Facime
04-12-2014, 03:12 AM
yes and dont be an idiot like the last owner of the 85 supra I rebuilt a few months ago who put loctite, yes LOCTITE...on the crank nose.

CriScO
04-12-2014, 03:43 AM
yes and dont be an idiot like the last owner of the 85 supra I rebuilt a few months ago who put loctite, yes LOCTITE...on the crank nose.

When I was at O'Reilly I had and older lady ask me for loctite. I showed it to her, told her how to use it, and after explaining the difference between red and blue she says, "so I'd want blue for my lug nuts, right?"

Facime
04-12-2014, 04:40 AM
LOL

:facepalm:

Luni
04-14-2014, 10:25 PM
When I was at O'Reilly I had and older lady ask me for loctite. I showed it to her, told her how to use it, and after explaining the difference between red and blue she says, "so I'd want blue for my lug nuts, right?"


You sold her the red right?

CriScO
04-14-2014, 10:26 PM
You sold her the red right?

Seriously thought about it.

Nitro_Alltrac
04-14-2014, 10:52 PM
Hey, sometimes you want to make sure that shit doesn't come off.


Ever.

muscle_bound89@Live.com
04-16-2014, 04:16 PM
Machine shop is rebuilding the motor. Everything is getting the hot wash. They are boring cylinders out 17 thousanths of an inch. Forged Wisco pistons to be had soon and debating on forged rods.

Does anyone know if the 3sgte head and main studs will work for the 5sfe motor? Or if not if anyone knows the dimensions of the bolts so I could order some from ARP directly?