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celicatuner92
01-13-2014, 11:21 PM
So I have been autocrossing my celica for 2 years now and im looking into alignment settings to get the most out of the car. I have read that a zero toe with -1.5 camber up fron and maybe -.5 in the rear would be good but I dont really know what the numbers should look like on the print out. If someone has a printout they could upload or just lost the numbers in a way I could write down to give the guy that would be great.

To help a little more the cars mods are:
1992 gt hatch with 5sfe
Kyb gr2 struts
Eibach sportline springs
St rear swaybar (setting closest to end of bar)
Front swaybar removed
Front and rear strut braces
Eibach rear camber bolts
Front struts sloted to allow camber adjustment
Polyurethane front control arm bushings

Mafix
01-14-2014, 10:37 PM
i run 1.6 neg camber on all 4
i also have 4 degrees of front caster

celicatuner92
01-15-2014, 02:16 AM
So I the saying zero toe self explanatory, meaning the chart should say zero or close to it? If they say they can't zero it would toe in or toe out be better?

I know your car is a bit more modified then mine and I thought I read that that was a little too much for the rear?

Forgot to put I am running 7th gen gts 5 spokes wit 205-50-16 Dunlop dirreza z2 tires.

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Mafix
01-15-2014, 02:35 AM
toe in in the rear (should be stock)
the front is up to you. try stock measurements first

Mafix
01-15-2014, 02:38 AM
camber -1.6 all 4 wheels
front toe 0
rear toe +0.20
front caster...4.0

that was mine last year. i'm running different front toe now.

celicatuner92
01-15-2014, 02:44 AM
Last year I ran -2 camber with everything else stock so that is kind of why I am asking here now. I think ill give your numbers a try and see how it does.

KoreanJoey
01-16-2014, 05:38 PM
It depends on the tires and the spring rate that you run. Some tires work better with more camber than others. Some manufacturers will send you the tire data if you request it, some (hoosier for example) will charge you for it. Additionally, the more the car rolls, the more static camber you need in the McStrut car in order to keep the contact patch level. I typically run zero toe front and rear and will set the camber based on the tire temps.

If you don't have one already, get an IR temp scanner and test your tire temps (inside, middle and outside). You should have a gradual shift of temperature from the inside to the outside of the tire (no more than 10 degree difference all the way across).

If it's high or low in the middle you want to adjust the tire pressure. Higher in the middle means you're running too much pressure and to low means you need to increase the pressure.

On H&R lowering springs, ST rear swaybar and 245/35R17 Toyo R1Rs the happy place for the alignment was around 2.5degrees up front and 1.7 rear. Again, if you're running less tire (making less grip/roll) you can get away with less camber.

celicatuner92
01-16-2014, 11:36 PM
I will be doing temperature testing this year, wanted to last year but just put it off and never got around to it. I will have to see if I can get some information from Dunlop about the tires.

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KoreanJoey
01-21-2014, 05:56 PM
I'll be playing a lot with the FRS this year. Kind of obnoxious that I just got the corolla dialed in just to have the engine explode. *sigh*

celicatuner92
01-21-2014, 10:40 PM
Ouch that sucks. I've got stuff all lined up to start testing in April at a track night and the first autocross in April as well.

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KoreanJoey
01-22-2014, 08:54 AM
April... Man, our first practice is in two and a half weeks.

Mafix
01-27-2014, 01:51 AM
just keep in mind i have 4 degrees of caster. that's WAY more than stock

KoreanJoey
01-27-2014, 05:57 PM
And probably way more spring rate than stock. OP is running on sportlines (not super stiff) so will need more camber if he's making any grip.

celicatuner92
01-27-2014, 06:28 PM
Yeah I might switch to a different spring later this year but as for now I have to work with what I got. I'm not sure if I can do much to change caster being in a STC. Ended up going with -1.5 camber in the front 0 toe and -.5 in the rear with stock toe to begin with. Going to start with 36psi front and 33psi in rear for pressure.

Mafix
01-27-2014, 06:54 PM
needs more rear camber.

METDeath
01-28-2014, 12:21 PM
Also, consider the 6th gen TRD springs, had those on my 5th gen with Koni's way better than the Eibach SportLines by miles. If you do switch, take a comparison pic of the springs.

You can ask Chris & Stacy, I cringed when I compared them. I thought I was going to end up even lower, when I thought I was going to gain about .5" in height.

celicatuner92
01-30-2014, 02:16 AM
Yeah I haven't decided on what suspension to go with next. I know I will most likely end up with koni's but I have always wondered what would be better. Megan coilovers or koni's and gc built set. I think with doing all the work myself the gc would still be more expensive but i'm not sure if its worth the money over the Megan's

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METDeath
01-30-2014, 04:43 AM
Yeah I haven't decided on what suspension to go with next. I know I will most likely end up with koni's but I have always wondered what would be better. Megan coilovers or koni's and gc built set. I think with doing all the work myself the gc would still be more expensive but i'm not sure if its worth the money over the Megan's

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Are you going to get serious about auto cross? If so, Koni+GCs, if it's not a huge deal, then Megan

KoreanJoey
02-03-2014, 10:02 AM
Megans will be cheaper and easier.

Koni's are miles better shocks and then you'll have to select the springrate that fits for your specs.

Speed costs money.

celicatuner92
02-04-2014, 12:41 AM
Yeah I figured the gc koni route would be better just wasn't sure if there was something I didn't know about the megans.

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KoreanJoey
02-04-2014, 08:01 AM
I would be they work pretty well. If you're not totally committed to building a competitive race car, you should be fine with them. I can't say anything about quality though.

Mafix
02-10-2014, 12:09 AM
i've had no issues. but i'm 2600lbs race weight.
i wouldn't use progressive rate springs. just my .02

KoreanJoey
02-10-2014, 01:22 AM
I wouldn't either. However, if you're daily driving it, it'll probably be way more comfortable. I ran H&R springs on konis on my daily and it was pretty good for driving around and occasionally doing a track day.

celicatuner92
02-10-2014, 02:44 AM
Yeah I am still figuring things out. Kind of following Adrian's build to and extent. It will be my daily most of the time but I will have my alltrac that is pretty much stock if I don't feel like a ruff ride to work.

I know its coming to time to change out the suspension because its been on the car for 10 years but the car sat until about 3 years ago. I don't plan to take the car to national's or anything crazy but it would be nice to pax well locally since we have a few multi time national champions with a few that go to national's every year.

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KoreanJoey
02-10-2014, 11:06 AM
Bushings...

Going to Nationals is an experience every autocrosser should experience. It's awesome man.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6yNejk7MwI

The red EF hatch (number 65) was me driving @ 2:40.

Hopefully my co-driver and I make it this year in his FRS.

Mafix
02-10-2014, 04:44 PM
I don't have the intentions of going to nationals either, that's not saying that I won't.
I've been lucky enough to be the AI fp champ 2 years running so I stepped up to WDCR. far more competitive. we will see how that goes.

celicatuner92
02-10-2014, 10:59 PM
Yeah I would like to go but lots of tightening the nut behind the wheel to do before I would feel comfortable going out there.

I have already changed the bushings out for polyurethane and put new kyb upper mounts on last year. This year so far I did ball joints and tie rod ends before the alignment.

I was thinking about keeping the car in stc but I am too lazy to fix things I have done so I just decided to jump up to fsp.

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KoreanJoey
02-11-2014, 10:21 AM
Man... Celica has no chance in spec 89 civic Si (STC)....

Mafix, top dog in FP is O'Gorman. He bought Leeds Guilick's FP 914/6 (local car built by Greg Fordahl a Daytona Prototype race engineer) and smashed the class last year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5wKpgG0r1s

celicatuner92
02-11-2014, 11:19 PM
Yeah I knew I had no chance after Will Lahee got me by 11 seconds my first year. I was able to cut it down to 5.5 last year. I don't think the lowly 5s has a chance in any other class than stock. I was trying to stay in a street tire class but I'm too lazy to put A/C, EGR, stock steering wheel, manifold with cat, and probably some other stuff I don't even know about. So for that i'll just go to fsp and maybe get hooked on r comps I guess

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KoreanJoey
02-12-2014, 08:11 AM
FSP would be tough too. Wenzel is no slouch.

Lonestag
02-12-2014, 07:49 PM
I'm moving into the STC class with my Paseo this year.
I don't mind getting beat, I just want to be in a class with people in it.

Maybe we could find a SCCA event that is in between us some time over the summer (i'm in Columbus).

KoreanJoey
02-13-2014, 08:35 AM
Hope to make it to Solo Nationals this year in STX in the FRS.

KoreanJoey
02-13-2014, 11:58 PM
Oh, O'Gorman just won SCCA driver of the year...

Mafix
02-17-2014, 12:51 AM
yes that car is a monster and i don't think i'd have a prayer of beating it. that said...i'd love to be the fastest fwd in fp. that's not impossible (being there are so few)

KoreanJoey
02-18-2014, 05:43 PM
Yeah, definitely the unicorn of the bunch.

celicatuner92
02-20-2014, 01:52 AM
Lonestang yea we could do that possibly. Should bring the paseo to the dragon this year

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celicatuner92
03-17-2014, 09:06 PM
Well after hitting a few pot holes and sliding the rear end into a curb I adjusted the rear swaybar to the less stiff setting to get rid of some oversteer. Getting another alignment a t -2 camber and 0 toe up front and -1.7 camber and 0 toe in the rear. Track day isn't until April 13 and the first autocross is April 27 so temp testing will take place then.

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Mafix
03-18-2014, 01:06 PM
i'd give a touch of positive toe in the rear.

KoreanJoey
03-18-2014, 04:38 PM
I would leave it at zero till you get the camber dialed in. Once you have the camber set correctly (take lots of temp readings) then you can tweak with toe to adjust the balance.