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sodap0p
08-11-2013, 09:09 PM
The Ogopogo pics inspired me. Took a look on the RC today, removed intake and spun the compressor wheel of the turbo freely with no shaft play whatsoever. So why am I not getting any boost until about 5000rpm? and the boost max is like 10 where normally it should boost 16psi with no effort.

Some info on the turbo and when it happened, Its a CT26 with an MBC from twosRus. I was boosting for a long period of time, then It happened suddenly and not over time, the boost point changed from 2800-ish to 5000-ish, and the boost would reach 10psi max.

I suspect it would be something to do with the wastegate, an exhaust leak before the turbo (but that would have to be major, wouldnt it?), or something with the MBC (that would explain the boost peak, but not the RPM range).

Any opinions would help.

jdm_celica_gts
08-11-2013, 09:41 PM
When I had an exhaust leak after the turbo. It still spooled but surged horribly. I would guess mbc. Try turning it all the way down and see what happens.

Nitro_Alltrac
08-11-2013, 09:58 PM
I would have to agree with something being off with MBC. I'd start there anyway. I was doing some maintenance on mine recently and found that I had a nut missing off of the stud holding the turbo to the manifold and then found that the other 3 nuts were loose as well. I had to have an exhaust leak there but I didn't have any noticeable boost issues.

Can you replumb the stock system to the wastegate? If you took the MBC out of the picture completely that would answer the question anyway.

sodap0p
08-11-2013, 10:05 PM
I was thinking of putting it back to stock boost control also. I think that will be the next step to take. I think I might put her together after that and go for a quick spin. If that doesn't solve it, I'll look for an exhaust leak.

I just had another thought..., it might be the wastegate, or actuator, so I'm thinking of putting pressure with a hand pump and check that. What do you guys think, waste of time? or possible cause?

Thanks guys! all input is appreciated.

sodap0p
08-11-2013, 11:59 PM
Hoses are put back to stock, and the mbc has been removed completely, however, boost has been unchanged. Very very laggy and low boost.

Im done working on it for today, I need to get out and get me some...

Cheers!

jdm_celica_gts
08-12-2013, 12:51 AM
The only other thing I can think is that your waste gate is cracked open and won't seal tight. That would case all your boost to flow out until your moving enough air to actually build boost.

Shadowlife25
08-12-2013, 01:09 AM
If you have access to an air compressor and a vacuum pump, you can test the function of the waste gate.

sodap0p
08-12-2013, 01:15 AM
If you have access to an air compressor and a vacuum pump, you can test the function of the waste gate.

I have both, thanks, I'll check that tomorrow after work.

Shadowlife25
08-12-2013, 01:39 AM
Good deal. That will make your life much easier since you can actually test things without having to take it all apart and just guess or hope to see something obviously broken.
Should take you about half an hour to test and verify results.

Fingers crossed that it's something small. :)

MrWOT
08-12-2013, 02:52 PM
A blown diaphragm causes overboost, because it doesn't actuate the flapper. You need to pull the downpipe and inspect the hot side.

Luni
08-12-2013, 11:40 PM
Sounds like symptom of the WG arm disconnected from flapper (possibly - although usually your boost is MUCH lower with that) OR, more likely, clogged cat.

What kind of exhaust system do you have on that thing? Do you even have cats?

alltracman78
08-13-2013, 12:11 AM
Shouldn't clogged cat spool really quick but have no power?

It sounds more like the arm being off [like you said], or the WG broken open or something.

Blown up hot side should be no boost at all. And if it's an RC turbo it's a steel wheel anyways.

And FYI, the MBC would either cause stock boost or too much boost.
If the MBC broke and allowed boost to pass early it would just go to the WG actuator and you would get stock boost.
If the MBC broke closed you would get boost until you hit boost cut.

Did you do any work on the car before it did that?
Does it run hot at all?
How's the timing?

Luni
08-13-2013, 12:17 AM
Jeremy, when the cat was clogged in my MR2, it spooled slow as fuck. It only got 4 PSI and it took FOREVER to get there.

alltracman78
08-13-2013, 01:18 AM
Yeah, I'm not sure on that [which is why I question marked it :)].
I know that exhaust gas slow down would gives you quicker spool and more torque at a lower RPM.
I wasn't sure about something that extreme though, and I've never dealt with it with a turbo.

Too bad you live in the miggle of the goddamn mountains, I think it would be good to have a beer together.
Or 20. :P

Luni
08-13-2013, 01:21 AM
Well, my company has a datacenter in Andover. If I ever get sent out there. Im calling you up.

T-spoon
08-13-2013, 01:22 AM
When my cat clogged on the Supra, it gradually was able to build less and less boost, then finally no boost, then unable to rev well, and finally unable to rev high enough to even maintain highway speed. Exhaust issue is one of the first things I thought of when I read the original post. On mine it was really simple to test, because it was just one vband clamp and the exhaust was completely out of the loop. On a stock 3sgte system that's a lot more annoying to test, obviously..

alltracman78
08-13-2013, 03:36 AM
Andover, huh?
Stay away from Lawrence.

Yeah, give me a call.
Just give me at least a few days heads up. I work nights and have 2 little wild animals at home.
So it's hard to escape without making plans.

underscore
08-13-2013, 07:21 AM
Have you checked for an intake/boost leak?

KoreanJoey
08-13-2013, 08:26 AM
Could also be cam timing as well.

Luni
08-13-2013, 08:00 PM
Could be your FACE Joey!

sodap0p
08-18-2013, 05:22 AM
No cat. I think it has an ebay dowpipe but it works. Im going to take it off, Inspect dp and turbo as soon as I can. Its my RC, but not sure about the impeller being ceramic or steel. I have replaced the motor with another RC motor, and it seems to runs warm to the touch (compared to my mr2 and 205) but the temp gauge shows normal.

sodap0p
08-18-2013, 05:24 AM
Could also be cam timing as well.


It runs strong with no boost...still might be worth a quick check before ripping off the turbo and dp .

sodap0p
08-18-2013, 05:30 AM
Also. I removed the mbc and its still driving exactly the same. Compressor wheel spins smooth with no play.

sodap0p
09-04-2013, 05:08 AM
Taking the downpipe off today, to inspect the wastegate and dp I found the o2 sensor wire cut and disconnected. Could this effect my boost? I picked up a replacement (ct26)turbo in case I need it. I ran out of time to complete the disassembly of the turbo.

More to come tomorrow.

The Captain
09-04-2013, 05:34 AM
Sounds like your wastegate may be stuck open...

sodap0p
09-04-2013, 05:38 AM
Its currently in the closed position Mr. Captain. Compressor wheel looks good. Im going to check the wastegate function after I finish removing the downpipe( a/c compressor is in the way).

sodap0p
09-04-2013, 11:25 PM
After some careful inspection, I think I found the problem:

So I was able to pull off the downpipe and be able to view the wastegate clearly. I attached a hose and began pumping compressed air (under 10psi) to the actuator. The wastegate seemed to be fine, opening and closing with no issue. I examined the downpipe and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. It wasn't until I attached the downpipe to the spare turbo I just got and tried the wastegate test that I noticed the wastegate sticking. It seems the downpipe may have changed, warped perhaps from the high heat of driving her hard. I tried a few times with the same results. I have a spare berk pipe (meant for my 205) that I tried against the spare turbo and it does not interfere with the wastegate action. Closer examination shows the berk pipe seems to give a bit more space near the wastegate over this unknown brand dp that came with the 185.

Pics to come, just came inside to grab my camera.

The unknown brand dp is ceramic coated and fiberglass wrapped. I wonder if that helped cause the extra heat in the downpipe causing it to warp slightly.

sodap0p
09-05-2013, 12:27 AM
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab328/sodap0p/20130904_163140.jpg
Carbon built up on the (left) RC's downpipe, comparison to the new Berk pipe(right)
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab328/sodap0p/20130904_163223.jpg
Just stratched the surface to show a little better
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab328/sodap0p/20130904_163059.jpg
back side.

Who votes remove material from the old pipe and replace?
Who votes putting this Berk gen3 pipe on my gen2 motor and call it a day? The only difference being the extra hole at the top of the dp for the additional stud on the gen3's 20b's)

I think the Berk gen3 pipe is going to have to be used for my RC.

reporting back after a test drive (which might not happen today)

The Captain
09-05-2013, 03:10 AM
As I suspected...

Aftermarket (read: cheap) dp's are famous for waste gate interference.

ChrisD
09-05-2013, 03:56 AM
Thought so. At least you found the problem. I'm not sure if the gen 3 dp will align to the exhaust though. It might, but I thought there was some issue with that. You can probably grind down the material where the gen 2 pipe interferes as well.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4

MrWOT
09-05-2013, 04:05 AM
+1 take a grinder to it

sodap0p
09-05-2013, 05:13 AM
Replaced it with the gen3 pipe, it actually has two additional holes/studs, but fit perfectly.

It's running great again, thank you to all, everyone's opinion helped!

Took her for a spin and hit boost cut:
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab328/sodap0p/20130904_214843.jpg

ChrisD
09-05-2013, 03:32 PM
Woot

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