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View Full Version : ST184-->MKII(JP) swap progress WITH PICTURES!!



Toyo3sgte
06-24-2013, 03:26 AM
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/225747_616530625023786_526360925_n.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/247529_616530641690451_884322439_n.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/316381_616534018356780_1654047378_n.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/945449_616530661690449_765911299_n.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01634.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01635.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01636.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01641.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01642.jpg

Toyo3sgte
06-24-2013, 05:01 AM
Sorry about them not being in order, but you get the idea.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/58561_603182359691946_1883867710_n_thumb.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01643.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01644.jpg

Toyo3sgte
06-26-2013, 08:29 PM
Okay, a bit of explanation of whats going on here. Keep in mind all of this happened gradually over a time period of about 3 years:

The original 5SFE motor had 289,743 miles on it. Oil leaks like crazy from the rear main, powersteering, and who knows what else. Found a JDM 3SGTE MR2 motor with harness, trans, ecu, and accessories from a local shop here for $2200. Pulled the motor and starting swapping all the mounting brackets from the 5SFE. While the motor was out I rebuilt the powersteering pump, replaced the rack and pinion with a rebuilt one, and cut a hole in the lower firewall to run the 2 unmodified ecu plugs to the ecu. Also while I was in there, I decided to touch up the engine bay paint with DupliColor Engine Enamel. I was having trouble finding the shifter levers from a V6 Solara for the e153 trans that came with motor, so I decided to pull a junkyard S54 trans, and do the hybrid clutch-disk/pressure-plate. Shortly thereafter a buddy of mine happened to come across the shifter levers I need at a junkyard and pulled them off for me. I am forever greatful for that. Unfortunately I had already bolted on the s trans. So i figure I can tear the shit out of that one and always have a back-up MR2 trans. I Dropped the new motor in, or rather raised the new motor in, and began to pull the electrical harness off for extending and conversion. I know this part with the engine harness was done ass-backwards but sometimes I just gotta learn things the stoopid way. Lesson learned. I also pulled the most of the body harness from the shell because there were several clamp-down type connections made in there and I wanted to fix those with solder and heat shrink. Which I should note is exactly how any and all splices were done when converting the engine harness to work with my car. A walboro 255 lph pump was dropped in the tank. Fast forward to today...I just installed the slim fan because the OEM fan shroud wouldnt clear the turbo. Also installing my apexi turbo timer where the old 90's clock used to sit. Almost fits perfectly, but requires a small amount of cutting to make it fit like factory.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01645.jpg

Toyo3sgte
06-26-2013, 08:34 PM
Also, I should mention that a battery has been connected and the key has been turned and the motor turns over like a champ. Only one problem, the clutch switch doesnt seem to stop the starter from turning over when it is not being pressed. Gotta work on that.

Shadowlife25
06-26-2013, 10:17 PM
Nice work so far. :)

Toyo3sgte
06-26-2013, 10:33 PM
Much appreciated! Just got the TT installed. Will post pics later this evening.

Shadowlife25
06-26-2013, 10:52 PM
When I installed my TT unit I just tucked it under the dash between the HVAC and the ECU. It honestly isn't something you need to mess with after you get it set initially.

Toyo3sgte
06-26-2013, 11:39 PM
I was originally going to just run it to the center console and keep it hidden in there. But the tt i bought has can switch between battery charge, time, and O2. It may not be wideband O2, yet, but it would still be a rough estimated reading. The brightness of the clock was starting to fade anyway. I plan to run my boost, oil pressure, and another gauge which I have not decided yet inside my glove. Incognito style, so Im not drawing too much attention.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01649.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01650.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01651.jpg
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/1/5/0/9/3/dsc01652.jpg

underscore
06-27-2013, 08:08 PM
When I installed my TT unit I just tucked it under the dash between the HVAC and the ECU. It honestly isn't something you need to mess with after you get it set initially.

That's what I used to think, until I really, really needed to shut off my engine to prevent frying it. Even if it's tucked away, you at least want it accessible should you need to get the car off before it counts down.

Toyo3sgte
06-27-2013, 10:05 PM
Hadnt considered that. I'd be willing to break the facia around the vents to get it out in an emergency if I need to. I can always get another at the junk yard. Its the facia around the stereo bay thats a pain to find in tact.

Toyo3sgte
07-09-2013, 06:56 PM
Plugged everything in, put a couple of gallons of gas, turned the key, and the damn fuel pump isnt priming. Its getting power, but very low voltage. Back to the drawing board. *sigh*

Toyo3sgte
07-11-2013, 12:58 AM
Apparently the problem is the brand new walboro fuel pump, that I bought from txautoplex on ebay two years ago, to drop in the tank. ANGER AND CONFUSION!!

underscore
07-11-2013, 04:58 AM
You bought a Walbro pump on eBay? There's a good chance that's not a real Walbro.

Toyo3sgte
07-11-2013, 06:46 PM
You bought a Walbro pump on eBay? There's a good chance that's not a real Walbro.

Hmm. Ive read about the chinese fakes that were going around, but the company I bought it from seemed legit, had tons of sales, and a good ebay rating. Im gonna start checking up on the serial stamp on it to see what I can find. Thanks for the heads up.

So I took a look at the stamp on the pump housing, and its got the walbro stamp and part numbers. Unless the chinamen are recycling pump housings, it indicates authentic to me.

underscore
07-12-2013, 05:14 AM
The stamp and part numbers are easy to fake, or for them to even acquire the casings for legit pumps and put crap in them, unless you flow test it you really don't know what you have if you bought a Walbro online (hell even brick and mortar shops have accidentally sold fake Walbros). Some of them will even take a smaller Walbro (say a 160) and put the guts into a shell for a larger pump (say a 255) and sell it as the larger pump. The reseller online might've been legit but their supplier could've been selling them shit.

Also don't forget damn near everything is now made in China. Chances are the knockoff pumps are made right down the road from the real factory, and some guy could be selling off the legit casings to the guys making fakes.

Long story short never buy a Walbro pump online and stick to smaller, but still quality brands (also why I never buy HKS or Greddy) as the biggest brand has the most fakes.

Toyo3sgte
07-12-2013, 09:34 PM
Thats a shame that people gotta be like that. I suppose I could try to find a walbro distributor locally from the official walbro website.

Thanks for the advice.

underscore
07-13-2013, 05:54 AM
Yeah it sucks, sorry for the lengthy post but I've seem far too many people get screwed by that one, and being a fuel pump it's both important and hard to verify. Go with something like a Deatschwerks or Aeromotive, you'll have an easier time ensuring you get a legit pump unless you're deadest on a Walbro.

Toyo3sgte
07-17-2013, 02:54 AM
Yeah it sucks, sorry for the lengthy post but I've seem far too many people get screwed by that one, and being a fuel pump it's both important and hard to verify. Go with something like a Deatschwerks or Aeromotive, you'll have an easier time ensuring you get a legit pump unless you're deadest on a Walbro.

No worries. Thanks for taking the time to write the lengthy post. I am looking into TRE Performance pumps and a few others. At least they come with a 1 year warranty. Its not much, but its more than walbro offers.

Toyo3sgte
07-30-2013, 07:31 PM
Okay, got my Deatschwerks DW200 pump in the mail, power washed the fuel tank several times,mounted the pump in the carrier and soldered the connections. Now Im not getting any spark. Im gonna start with the distro cap and rotor as the connections look quite worn down. The cap and rotor from the 5SFE should be interchangeable with the 3SGTE?

andy
07-31-2013, 05:25 PM
maybe, I think maybe the rotor. Not sure on the cap. Just pull the coil wire and hold it close to the engine while cranking, It should light up like a firecracker. If it sparks the dizzy is working fine. No spark means its not getting the signal to fire the spark and also not to fire the injectors. Check and make sure you have power at the injectors (black/orange wire), ignitor (same), etc. Also the map sensor should have 5v at the wire opposite the ground (brown wire) when the key is on. If your getting the 5v and a check engine light on the dash when the key is on that indicates the ecu is on and ready to start. also make sure you have hooked up the starter signal wire (sta).

Toyo3sgte
08-06-2013, 03:46 AM
maybe, I think maybe the rotor. Not sure on the cap. Just pull the coil wire and hold it close to the engine while cranking, It should light up like a firecracker. If it sparks the dizzy is working fine. No spark means its not getting the signal to fire the spark and also not to fire the injectors. Check and make sure you have power at the injectors (black/orange wire), ignitor (same), etc. Also the map sensor should have 5v at the wire opposite the ground (brown wire) when the key is on. If your getting the 5v and a check engine light on the dash when the key is on that indicates the ecu is on and ready to start. also make sure you have hooked up the starter signal wire (sta).

Thanks for the possible causes Andy. Ill go through your checklist and let ya know what I find out.