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View Full Version : WTF wheel bearings?!



Physlis
06-11-2013, 12:39 AM
Ok, so over the last year or two Prime's gone through 6-8 front wheel bearings, alternating sides. I'm on Megan coilovers on dampening adjustment click #15 (auto-x/street setting), maybe 1" drop, 0* toe and around -1* camber. I know a good number of you on here are around the same settings if not more extreme, any ideas why I'm chewing through bearings so fast? It's always the inboard inner race loosening from the spindle. This last one went even without the CV nut loosening, stayed tightened up for the whole 3-5 months I had it in..still greased properly, never makes a sound until I turn and that only developed over the last couple days.

I'm seriously considering investing in a welder and tacking these stupid things together when I install them:madfawk:

grimmythereaper
06-11-2013, 12:54 AM
are the hubs even slightly warped? bc that could do it, also maybe ur spindals themselfs are bad

Physlis
06-11-2013, 03:57 AM
All hubs have been brand new from Toyota, I've had to replace them along with each bearing so far

grimmythereaper
06-11-2013, 04:48 AM
are the metal sleeves getting pressed onto the spindals?

Physlis
06-11-2013, 12:55 PM
Everything was pressed as far on as it could go, I've done the last 2 myself to be sure. The one going now was done in probably March (it still has the out-of-the-box anti-seize on the threads), before that was July(?) and the other side was I think September and I just replaced it last month again.

grimmythereaper
06-11-2013, 03:37 PM
mmmmmmmm where are the wheel bearings coming from?

Physlis
06-11-2013, 04:15 PM
CarQuest, Autozone, Advanced Auto, I've run through every local supplier..I've done the high quality ones, the cheapos, they all run the same..I refuse to pay the rediculous price for a Toyota bearing though.

andy
06-11-2013, 06:08 PM
koyo is Toyotas bearing supplier. Try to find one aftermarket.

Luni
06-11-2013, 10:15 PM
CarQuest, Autozone, Advanced Auto, I've run through every local supplier..I've done the high quality ones, the cheapos, they all run the same..I refuse to pay the rediculous price for a Toyota bearing though.


LOL. How many bearings have you gone through? Ill bet your refusal has cost you more money than it would if youd have just bought a Toyota bearing in the first place.

Sorry to be blunt, but your last post sounded supremely stupid.

Luni
06-11-2013, 10:20 PM
Ill qualify my post with something helpful.

I can think of 3 things that will cause you to eat through bearings.

1)cheap bearings, person performing the press work is doing it wrong
2)overtightening/undertightening of axle seal (mostly undertightening giving too much play in the hub)
3)worn hub/spindle causing excessive play in the bearings

jdm_celica_gts
06-12-2013, 04:56 AM
Have you checked your calipers? If they don't float( self adjust) when you press them in, they will side load and cause the bearing to go out faster. I'm already on wheel bearing number 4 over the past year :/ I think my hub is slightly bent tho.

Physlis
06-12-2013, 06:32 PM
I can double-check them, might need a new set of those V-springs...it's not like the entire bearing is going bad either, it rolls just fine but I get a nasty popping sound turning right. I thought it was the CV starting to go until I saw the inner race was loose.

jdm_celica_gts
06-13-2013, 01:51 AM
Mine makes that same popping noise but its when I my car is barely rolling.

Hipster Lawrence
06-16-2013, 09:26 PM
LOL. How many bearings have you gone through? Ill bet your refusal has cost you more money than it would if youd have just bought a Toyota bearing in the first place.

Sorry to be blunt, but your last post sounded supremely stupid.


QFT.

also in my experience brand new bearing failures are almost always installer error. It's real easy to ruin a bearing with a 40 ton press.

Physlis
06-19-2013, 04:09 PM
That's what I'm trying to figure out; I just did the passenger side myself, the one that just went was done by another mechanic I work with so he could show me how to use the equipment, and the rest have all been done by other shops.

Had a family friend stop by who's been doing "home garage" work for years, he gave me a rundown on what could be issues: the larger OD tires, CVs not quite lined up (castor out of whack), bad toe, bad camber, bent A-arm, improper bearing fit on the spindle...all he could really figure (with the knuckles off the car) was that there's too much heat being generated and it could be expanding the bearing race...Now that the car has some down-time I could troubleshoot most of that fixed provided I didn't have a bearing preventing a good alignment, however I can't afford another bearing and hub until I'm back to commuting 60 miles a day though, gonna see if he'll weld it together for me in the meantime since both the bearing and hub are useless since it already scored the damn thing...

alltracman78
06-20-2013, 11:30 PM
Forget your alignment and forget the bearings, it's highly unlikely either is going to cause that many to go bad that fast. They're both long term things.
It sounds like either installation error or the CV axle may not be seated firmly against the bearing.
How tight are you tightening the CV nut? And how are you tightening it [torque wrench, impact gun]?

Physlis
06-23-2013, 06:01 AM
The one that just failed was torqued to spec (which I googled) around 150 in/lbs with a torque wrench I borrowed from work, it stayed in place since March until I removed it and discovered the inner race loose when I first posted this. The other side (and also the longest-running installations) I've been using the "german torque" of "GoodnTighten" and it's been working fine. I know not having enough torque is the primary cause of failure, so when push comes to shove I go tighter, typically using a breaker bar on the socket and using a 4-way proped between lugs to hold the hub in place.

Hipster Lawrence
06-23-2013, 04:15 PM
I tighten fwd style axle nuts as tight as my snap on 1/2 inch impact will get them. 150 ft# is not enough.

Physlis
06-24-2013, 01:41 AM
Guess that's what I get for going "within spec" according to what I found online...Seems I was better off going with "until the wrench quits giving". With the upcoming AT build I'll be investing in an impact wrench anyway.

celica9303
06-24-2013, 05:07 AM
From what I remember from the bgb the torque spec for the front axle nut is 203ft-lbs

Physlis
06-24-2013, 02:23 PM
Hmm, I must not've been able to get to the bgbs the day I looked it up while at work..would explain why I went with a smaller wrench.