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4thgenceli
11-19-2012, 01:49 AM
How the hell do you replace this without removing the power steering pump?

I've loosened the 17mm/22mm union by the firewall up top. I'm having a hell of a hard time getting the 17mm banjo bolt to break loose. Any suggestions on what tools to use? I can't get a regular ratchet down there and have room to ratchet. I was able to get a 17mm wrench on it, but there's not enough room for me to get enough leverage on it to break it loose.

93celicaconv
11-19-2012, 02:17 AM
Hmm. I replaced one of these on a 90 4A-FE, and the pump side wasn't a problem that I can remember. I had more issues on the rack side (not much room between axles/transaxle and the power steering rack to loosen/tighten anything up).

acidice333
11-19-2012, 11:11 AM
I did it a long time ago with an extension or extensions and possibly a u-joint.

fussellbug
11-19-2012, 12:16 PM
You may be better off pulling the pump just so you can get enough leverage to tighten the banjo bolt when you're done.

92 celica
11-21-2012, 04:57 AM
I've honestly driven around for the last 8 months with out power steering because I can't break that bolt lose

4thgenceli
11-21-2012, 04:59 AM
Well the car is still down and on stands. The axle is disassembled already (new boots) so I have access to it easily. I'll rip it out and put the new hose on. I need to clean up the area anyway after the exploded boot pissed grease everywhere.

Doowstados
11-21-2012, 05:07 AM
If you can get your wrench on it and have room you might try an air hammer with a flat attachment and use that to hit the end of the wrench while you hold the bottom. It's worked for me in a couple of tight spots where an impact couldn't be used for some reason.

MCcelica
11-25-2012, 08:40 AM
When we did it on the 7th gen, it was a pain in the ass. We just used a 17mm open box on the bolt, and a crescent to hold the other one in place. It was even more of a pain in the ass getting it back on. I recommend what Fusselbug said and just take the damn pump off so it's easier to thread up that hard line and get that banjo bolt back in when you're done. Hell, that part alone took us almost 4 hours.

l0ch0w
11-25-2012, 11:28 PM
isnt this like your 12th post about how you cant undo some bolt?

Im starting to think your arms are just wimpy... :P

I think you may benifit from either buying air tools, or getting an electric impact gun... (or hitting the gym)

I dont think I could ever go back to using hand tools alone to work on my car, just last night I removed my whole rear driveshaft in about 5 mins. Having a few extensions and some impact swivel sockets cut my time by probably an hour. I dare any of you to try removing the bolts that connect the driveshaft to the differential input with plain hand tools, no breaker bars, or a lift...

My three favorite tools:
1. Impact gun
2. dual ended box end wrenches (I try to avoid open ended wrenches like the plague)
3. extensions and swivels (I remember when I removed my dads transmission in his tacoma using 4 feet worth of extensions to get to the bolts located on the top of the bellhousing)

Boy... I sound like a dick today huh...

Car_Barn_Bandit
11-26-2012, 10:14 PM
+1 for having the right tools. Without them, welcome to frustration town.

Terracar
11-26-2012, 11:08 PM
isnt this like your 12th post about how you cant undo some bolt?

Im starting to think your arms are just wimpy... :P

I think you may benifit from either buying air tools, or getting an electric impact gun... (or hitting the gym)

I dont think I could ever go back to using hand tools alone to work on my car, just last night I removed my whole rear driveshaft in about 5 mins. Having a few extensions and some impact swivel sockets cut my time by probably an hour. I dare any of you to try removing the bolts that connect the driveshaft to the differential input with plain hand tools, no breaker bars, or a lift...

My three favorite tools:
1. Impact gun
2. dual ended box end wrenches (I try to avoid open ended wrenches like the plague)
3. extensions and swivels (I remember when I removed my dads transmission in his tacoma using 4 feet worth of extensions to get to the bolts located on the top of the bellhousing)

Boy... I sound like a dick today huh...


What this dick said. I used 2 ft worth of extensions and a swivel with an air ratchet on mine as I recall since I didn't have a vise.

4thgenceli
12-09-2012, 01:04 AM
Well thanks for crappy advise...:P

The ST215 pump location is not the same. It's angled up just a bit to make it nearly impossible to get any leverage on with the pump installed and axle on.

mike1157
12-09-2012, 08:14 AM
I just replaced the pressure power steering hose (line to pump) on my 93 GT with auto trans (I also have one with manual). I was highly motivated to do it myself after getting ridiculous labor quotes of 2 or 2.5 hours with a $35.00 part and having same done on the one with manual 3 years ago with only 1 hour labor charged (and having 2 other cars to drive if it took a long time :D). I then found post after post on the net about having to remove a bunch of stuff then remove the pump from underneath with the line still attached to it. It then occurred to me that the shop that did the other one didn't bitch about it taking a lot more time than the 1 hour they charged me, as always happened before in such cases. On closer examination, I found light scratches on the back of the valve cover above the union joint and figured they must have done it from above using some sort of swivel joint. I also found a post that stated the banjo union bolt is 22mm, and I had only up to a 19mm socket in a 3/8" drive set. So, I went down to Auto Zone and found they had 22mm sockets in both 3/8 and 1/2" drive. I decided to try the 3/8" one first, and on advice from the parts guy there I also picked up a good 3-piece u-joint set. I was able to break the union bolt loose using the following (all 3/8" drive): 22mm socket, u-joint, 12" extension and breaker bar.

I was ecstatic, but it didn't last long. I found that there was also a nut beneath the union joint that was also turning, and it was obvious a standard wrench would be too long to get in there. So, I went back to Auto Zone and was able to find a stubby crescent wrench that would open wide enough (24mm) and was short enough (8") to wedge onto the lower nut. I then broke the union bolt loose, removed it, then disconnected the other end of the hose using a 17mm flare nut wrench and large vise grip pliers.

I found that the original union gasket was 1-piece dual-sided, and the gasket with the new hose was 2 separate pieces. I figured it would be a lot easier to reinstalll the hose with the 1-piece OEM gasket due to space restrictions. This turned out to be very important as I spent about 1/2 hour getting the union bolt started back in with one hand while dangling the hose and gasket with the other hand. I then tightened the lower nut and union bolt as much as I could then reattached the other end using same tools as above. After bleeding the system and test driving it there were no leaks, and the steering was normal.

Definitely worth saving about $250.00. WOO HOO!!!

KoreanJoey
12-11-2012, 05:15 AM
Air tools, swivels, etc.

/quityerbitchin

underscore
12-14-2012, 11:09 PM
I dare any of you to try removing the bolts that connect the driveshaft to the differential input with plain hand tools, no breaker bars, or a lift...

The driveshaft to the rear diff? I've done that. Jackstands + 3 wrenches and some cursing = out.