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View Full Version : I'm back from the dead, also my Celica is dying.



car
10-27-2012, 03:04 AM
So...its been a while since I logged on, I missed you guys, but IU tends to eat up all my time. What's happened in the last two years and who is still here? I know I probably should have posted this in maintenance, troubleshooting, & repairs, but I wanted to know what's happened since I left.

My car dropped its alternator/AC drive pulley going down a hill, so I just threw the belt on the smaller pulley that was still attached to my engine. I'm wondering if this is going to over charge my system and fry my alternator; its charging fine but its a little high (still well within the indicator range). My alternator also stopped charging on the way back down to Bloomington and popped its fuse and the new battery I bought MAY have been put on backwards because I was stressed and such so I blew a bunch of other fuses and now my airbag light is permanently on. Last but not least, my rear brakes just don't work. I'm guess there is a block in the line somewhere or the master cylinder is a bit leaky. Sorry for the long post guys, but no driving my car for 6 months, then driving it for 6 months for three years has taken its toll on my poor car.

Hookecho
10-27-2012, 09:01 AM
Who are you?

MCcelica
10-27-2012, 04:42 PM
I kinda remember you.

So wait. Did you have an overdrive pulley on the alt? I'm wondering how that belt is staying on without one of the pulleys being the same size. But it sounds like it doesn't even matter now. Did you drive it with the battery "backwards"? I kind of doubt it would start if you did actually have it backwards, so if you did drive it like that, all the blown fuses would be from the alt overcharging the system. The fuses are put in place to protect the wiring, not the components. So change the alternator out with a new one with a good pulley, replace your fuses AND the battery (again, since the overcharging probably warped the cells), AND the serp belt, make sure all your other pulleys and tensioners are good, and you should be right as rain.

There is a way to pull the airbag code, although I don't remember it off the top of my head. Someone will chime in with that. You may need to replace some gear with that too.

As far as the rear brakes go... It could be a clog in the line, or even a leaky master cylinder. Then again, it could also be a hole in a hose or two, and it could also be that your rear calipers are ceased. We're going to need you to check on all of those before you can know which way to proceed with that.

car
10-28-2012, 03:00 AM
I didn't drive it with the battery backwards, it was just an incredibly stupid mistake that I made because the Rural King (the place I got stranded) battery had its terminals in the middle. It blew my alt fuse when it got put on backwards, along with a few others. I adjusted the alt into its highest belt tension setting to keep the belt from slipping but it eventually gave out because it was quite old anyway. If I read the voltage coming off the alt as is (it's currently overdriven because the pulley that fell off was the two piece pulley coming off the engine has lost its larger half), shouldn't I be able to just leave it if its charging within a certain range? Also, what is that pulley called and how do I go about changing it since it is in a ridiculous spot that I cannot reach.

I can't really do anything about the brakes because my landlord will rage and fine me if they see me doing anything on my car aside from just checking my oil or adjusting the alt belt. The alt belt, by the way, has been switched out with a new shorter one to keep the car alive. I feel bad for my celica because its receiving the stand college kid neglect, even though I know better. I'm mostly unable to do anything about most if it.

Hookecho, I used to lurk around a lot back when I had more time, unfortunately I never really posted that often.

Hookecho
10-28-2012, 03:06 AM
Don't worry. I remember you. Just giving you a hard time.

MCcelica
10-28-2012, 05:44 AM
I didn't drive it with the battery backwards, it was just an incredibly stupid mistake that I made because the Rural King (the place I got stranded) battery had its terminals in the middle. It blew my alt fuse when it got put on backwards, along with a few others. I adjusted the alt into its highest belt tension setting to keep the belt from slipping but it eventually gave out because it was quite old anyway. If I read the voltage coming off the alt as is (it's currently overdriven because the pulley that fell off was the two piece pulley coming off the engine has lost its larger half), shouldn't I be able to just leave it if its charging within a certain range? Also, what is that pulley called and how do I go about changing it since it is in a ridiculous spot that I cannot reach.

I can't really do anything about the brakes because my landlord will rage and fine me if they see me doing anything on my car aside from just checking my oil or adjusting the alt belt. The alt belt, by the way, has been switched out with a new shorter one to keep the car alive. I feel bad for my celica because its receiving the stand college kid neglect, even though I know better. I'm mostly unable to do anything about most if it.

Hookecho, I used to lurk around a lot back when I had more time, unfortunately I never really posted that often.

Oh, shit. Yeah, I forgot. 5th and 6th gens have that adjustment right on the alt. (7th gens don't)

I would still change the alt in all honesty. Once stuff starts falling apart, that's all it continues to do. New alt should come with a new pulley and it's a 15 minute job since yall's alternators are easy as hell.

As far as the brakes go, you can check to see if the caliper is ceased pretty quickly. You should be able to manipulate it by hand to see if it moves freely. If not, you should be able to get them apart with some elbow grease, wiggling, and maybe other methods of persuasion. There are caliper guides on the front and back of each caliper that do like to get stuck every now and then, especially if they haven't been greased in a while. Either way, once you get 'em apart, put some grease or silicone on those guides and that's it. Only thing is if your calipers do move freely, but still don't work when pedal operated, you definitely have bigger problems.

CriScO
10-28-2012, 05:58 AM
Seth, I think he means his crank pulley broke in half, not the alternator one.

MCcelica
10-28-2012, 06:05 AM
Seth, I think he means his crank pulley broke in half, not the alternator one.

Which would really suck. And would also explain why he said he can't reach it. I'm wondering how it plays into everything else in this story though.

car
10-29-2012, 02:10 AM
Aaaaand the story: So changed the alt last year since it died (should still be under warranty...) and I swapped it out with new one, but the belt kept slipping and it kept throwing it off at high rpms form some reason, regardless of how tight I adjusted it. One day I was driving quite spiritedly, smelled some burning belt and heard a thunk and what sounded like some a large piece of metal spinning to a stop, I got to the bottom of the hill and saw the larger half of the crank pulley slowly roll past my car...I picked it up, saw what was wrong and drove the 10 miles home on battery power. Since then I have been running the alt belt off of the crank pulley (please tell me how bad this is/isn't) until the belt started slipping again, to the point that I think it overheated the alt or something and it stopped charging. I got 15 miles from Bloomington when my battery finally died, bought a new one, didn't realize which was the pos. or neg. lead and set my horn off and popped my alt, radio, and EFI fuse. Now I know why my horn went off constantly. I got a free tow home. I just got a shorter belt since the alt adjustment was maxed out, now its nice and tight and doesn't slip.

I'll check the calipers and see if they seem seized tomorrow. Thanks guys.

And as r/Justrolledintotheshop has so kindly provided,
My problem exactly: http://imgur.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/aFpxe

MCcelica
10-29-2012, 07:16 AM
Ouch. Dude, yeah. You kind of need to fix that correctly. The alt probably stopped charging because it wasn't getting enough spin from the now smaller crank pulley.

Honestly though, getting up into those high revs shooting the serp belt off could be caused by a loose belt, for sure. But if the belt is also not properly aligned, it'll do that too. So if any of the ribs are cracked too badly, or there's too many ribs, or not enough, or whatever. Yeah, it'll shoot that straight off of there.

So you need to replace your crank pulley at very least. I would also check the bearings on all your other pulleys too. I wouldn't be surprised at all if some of them didn't get jacked up from all of that. If you can't reach the crank pulley, like I said, get that motor mount off and it should drop below the passenger side inner fender. You'll need to hit it with an impact, otherwise some say you can get a breaker bar on it and tap the starter, but that gets to be dangerous and if you don't have an impact you'll never get it back on correctly using the breaker bar/starter method. Once you get that crank nut off though, I'm not sure if you'll need a pulley puller or not. My 7th gen didn't need one, but that could be different with the 5th gen. Since you'll have the serp belt off, you might as well replace that alt too.

Let us know what the caliper situation is.

Doowstados
10-29-2012, 04:35 PM
You'll definitely need a puller to get the pulley off after you get the nut off. I got mine at HF for like $10 on sale, regular price is like $15.

It's a pretty straightforward job to get the pulley off. You just need to get the car on jack stands, move the jack under the oil pan and put a piece of 1ft x 1ft or so wood under it (I use an old skateboard deck) and take the weight off of the mount. Then you just take the mount bolt off and lower it a bit.

You can rent an impact from some hardware stores, my local Home Depot has battery powered ones for rent but that might not have enough umph to spin the bolt if its been on there for a long time.

car
10-29-2012, 05:43 PM
I gotta find a place to do this. Let's see how friendly my friends are...
I am a little confused though, why does my voltage gauge in my instrument cluster read higher than it used to if the crank pulley is spinning it slower than usual? I won't be able to get the rear tires off at my house so hopefully I'll be able to get something done this weekend.

MCcelica
10-29-2012, 06:18 PM
I gotta find a place to do this. Let's see how friendly my friends are...
I am a little confused though, why does my voltage gauge in my instrument cluster read higher than it used to if the crank pulley is spinning it slower than usual?

Dude, I dunno, but with your entire electrical system being dicked up, it wouldn't surprise me if your voltage gauge was bouncing all over the place.

As a side note, I've never had much luck with electric impact's on that crank nut, and yes I've tried. Even the corded plug in electric impacts couldn't get the crank pulley nut off my 6th gen.

So here's what I'm thinkin' your job is lookin' like, and prior to the job you should remove the battery for safety reasons.

1) Loosen the alt and remove the smaller belt.
2) Get the car on jack stands, jack the oil pan up with the wood as Doowstados described.
3) Get that PS engine mount off
4) Lower the engine to where you can access the pulleys
5) Get a good impact wrench onto that crank pulley nut and remove
6) Use a puller for the crank pulley and get that off
7) Replace crank pulley and press back on. (Use the impact to get the crank pulley nut back on, torque to spec)
8) Check all other pulleys. (The more I think about your original situation, the more I think that a bit of resistance from any of the pulleys could have been shooting your original belt off in high RPMS.
9) Depending on which pulley you find that's bad, you will have to replace that, which may mean you have to replace the entire accessory
10) Make sure all your pulleys are lined up exactly
11) Get a new/correct size/properly fitting serp belt, Follow the routing map, and get that new serp belt on. (Spin the crank pulley with the belt attached and make sure it doesn't fall off)
12) Bring the alt back up to the original tension height that you should be able to see on the alt adjustment bolt
13) Jack engine back up and remount the engine mount
14) Replace any bad fuses, check all your grounds and replace if necessary (Use a multimeter)
15) Check your brake calipers.

That should have you mostly right as rain, and that all can be done fairly cheaply.

car
10-29-2012, 07:45 PM
You guys are fantastic, all I have to do is play the waiting game now to find a driveway/garage to do it in along with some tools. I wonder how much of my engine mount is left, I know they're pretty soft/rotted out judging by how sloppy my engine feels sometimes when I get on or off the gas.

car
11-02-2012, 04:26 AM
Anyway, where is the best place to buy a crank pulley, 1sttoyotaparts? Autozone? And I'm going to get this all done over Thanksgiving break in a friend's garage, hopefully.

MCcelica
11-02-2012, 07:11 AM
The official OEM Toyota vendor for Celicatech.com is Lithia Toyota.
Forum: http://www.celicatech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?137-Lithia-Toyota
Website: http://www.lithiatoyotaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215542

I recommend asking Aaron (Aaron Willis) or Tracy (FrunkMonkey) for a part number in your own thread in their forum, then searching that part number on their website. They are very fast and communicative. They deal in OEM parts, and are generally about 70% of the cost of most stealerships.

car
11-03-2012, 03:39 AM
Thanks, I'll make sure to check them out before break.