PDA

View Full Version : Very disappointed with the G35 right now



Hookecho
08-14-2012, 11:33 PM
Shortly after buying it I had to replace the cam sensors which cost me $200 from the dealership. No problem though because I expect things to go wrong with a used car. Shortly after I get a DTC for multiple misfires(P0300). I go ahead and change the oil and do a tune up. Then I get a DTC for camshaft timing over advanced for bank 1 and 2(P0011, P0021). I check the oil and it's a little low so I top it off and the timing advance code go away as I expected. The misfire code remains.

So we are coming home from from dinner and the engine loses power and begins bogging down and misfiring. I hear popping resonating through the intake. This happens about 1/2 mile from my house. I limp the car home. I begin diagnosing the problem thinking that I have a bad coil. The car won't idle so I disconnect the MAF sensor and it starts and idles fine. Just won't past 3000 rpm. So I suspect the MAF is dirty and clean it with MAF cleaner. That doesn't help. The dealer wants $700 for a new one and I about have a heart attack. Instead I run to the part store and get a buddy to lend me a MAF sensor for a quick test but it didn't help at all. So I rule that out and move on.

So with the car running I start disconnecting the harness from the coils one by one. Cylinder 2 gets disconnected and no change in idle. I disconnect the coils for 4 and 6 and no change in idle at all. At this point all three coils are disconnected and not firing. The motor is still idling fine. Odd right? I then go to the other side of the motor and disconnect the coil on cylinder 1 and the engine stalls. I plug it back up, start the engine, and get the same result when disconnecting 3 and 5. The engine stalls. Then I swap the coils from 2,4 and 6 over to the other side of the motor to see if the problem moves with them. It doesn't. The driver's side of the motor(bank 2) seems to not be firing at all. So I push a spark plug into each coil and with the engine running I test them one by one. The all spark. In fact I was able to hold the spark plug and coil about 6 inches away from a grounding point and they would all jump the gap and arc. So at this point there is no doubt that the coils are all good.

This leads me to believe that somehow there is a timing problem or fueling issue that is only affecting only one side of the motor.

My next step was to check the intake valve timing actuators. The both worked. Well, they actuated when I applied voltage.

So I get the dealer to give me two new cam sensors just to rule that out and that made no difference.

I then do a compression check before going any further.
Normal Compression is 185. Minimum is 142.

Cylinder 1 - 200
Cylinder 3 - 200
Cylinder 5 - 210

Cylinder 2 - 167
Cylinder 4 - 105
Cylinder 6 - 155

Putting oil in the cylinders did not change the numbers at all. So I'm guessing I have valve issue on cylinder 4. Maybe a head gasket. I'm not quite sure why the numbers are so different from one side of the motor to the other.

I really don't know if a malfunctioning IVT solenoid would cause compression numbers to be inaccurate or not.

I did purchase a 3mo/3000 mile warranty on this car so I may have to see how good it is. IDK

The Captain
08-14-2012, 11:42 PM
That sucks. I'd button it up and start the warranty claim. Tell them you didn't touch the car.

underscore
08-14-2012, 11:50 PM
Yeah I'd be calling in that warranty right about now.

CriScO
08-15-2012, 12:03 AM
Yes, the VTC solenoid malfunctioning will cause the compression numbers to drop for the bank it controls.

CollapsedNut
08-15-2012, 12:05 AM
Oh boy. Good luck.

Luni
08-15-2012, 12:26 AM
Bruce, Im with Crisco here. Most likely its an issue with the valves that have the variable valve timing on the cam.

But definitely warranty claim. That sucks dude. My roommate Jeremy has had 2 cars with that same 3.5 liter motor in it. Hes never had a single issue with either one of them along those lines.

Murgatroy
08-15-2012, 12:36 AM
That sucks. I'd button it up and start the warranty claim. Tell them you didn't touch the car.

I'm with the old guy here.

Glad you sprung for the warranty.

Hookecho
08-15-2012, 01:26 AM
Well, I feel better knowing that the compression results can be hampered by the IVT malfunctioning. Which leads me to think that they may be the issue. I've never had a vehicle fixed by a shop. So I'm going to have to see if the warranty will even cover this. I don't trust extended warranty companies to actually approve anything. They are very tricky and if the part needing replacing is not on the list of covered parts then i have to pay. IVT actuators aren't on that list. The guy I bought the car from paid for the warranty in order to sweeten the deal. Otherwise I never would have wanted it.

CriScO
08-15-2012, 02:23 AM
Well, if it fails, that solenoid was like $210 dollars, so not too bad.

Hookecho
08-15-2012, 02:33 AM
Well, after taking a quick look at the service manual and doing some research I have discovered that this motor has 3 timing chains. Two of which control the timing for the intake cams by way of the IVT if I read right. Sometimes the cam sprocket gets stuck and I guess causes the timing to be of on the intake cams.

Oddly enough, I feel better about things now.

CollapsedNut
08-15-2012, 02:47 AM
It's allways better knowing what the issue is.

alltracman78
08-15-2012, 01:53 PM
Low oil can damage the cam gears, that may have the cause of your OCV code too...

These style engines are much more sensitive to low oil, a big reason why I like older stuff.

Nitro_Alltrac
08-19-2012, 03:18 PM
Bruce if the extended warranty is from a carrier other than the manufacturer, be ready for them to do everything they can to beat you out of the claim. When I worked a the Chevy dealer I saw a couple of them go to great extremes to get out of paying the claim. One of them had a guy that went around the country "reviewing" the tear downs and basically denying everything. In this case, they spent more denying the claim than what it would have cost to fix the car. I would recommend finding out how much it's going to cost you to have the shop the check it out AND if the warranty company denies your claim before you go too far. A lot of these extended warranties the dealers sell really aren't worth the paper they're printed on.

Mafix
08-19-2012, 10:33 PM
and as i've seen dozens of times at work, every single time i get codes like this they are caused by oiling issues. not part failure. 90% of the time it's from people not changing their oil with the proper stuff/amount/frequency. and 80% of that time, removing the part and cleaning it (getting the sludge out), cleaning the oil pan/pickup, and running an engine oil cleaning service fixes the issue.
perhaps try running some high detergent oil first. run the piss out of it for 500 miles then change it out and see if it fixes itself.

Galcobar
08-20-2012, 09:05 AM
Sounds like the one time it's a good idea to use Seafoam or its ilk in the crank case then.

Hookecho
08-20-2012, 09:41 PM
The infiniti Tech told me that he took the timing cover off and it has jumped time. Says it has some damaged valves and that a new motor is the only option. Infiniti quoted me $16,000 for a reman motor installed and $6.000 for a used motor. I went back to the guy I bought it from and talked to him. Told him that paying $8,000 for a car that has a motor go out after a week is unacceptable.

I told him that i wanted another low miles motor to replace it and for him to pay for everything. We looked at a motor with 80,000 miles on it from a place down the street from my house. This parts yard is like the upper echelon of junk yards. It doesn't even look like a junk yard. They will warranty the motor for 12mo/12.000 miles.

He was somewhat reluctant at first and trying to bullshit me. I told him I would seek legal recourse if I had to. I think we have come to a meeting of the minds though. The warranty will pay out $1000 toward the fix. The motor is $1300, the labor and fluids another $$700. That leaves $1000 left to pay after the warranty reimburses him the $1000. I told him I would pay half of that at $500. Not a penny more and that is being very reasonable imo. I think he can agree to this but he insists on talking it over with his partner first. I told him to have an answer for me in the morning. I asked him to have integrity and do the right thing. I hope he does.

If he wants to renig on doing the right thing then I will buy the motor and install it myself. Then I will sue him for the cost of repairs.

Ryan
08-20-2012, 10:14 PM
^thats a shitty deal or you my man.. I hope he mans up and agrees to your terms.


Sent from MARS! 👽

MrWOT
08-20-2012, 10:38 PM
I'd sue for a new or reman or just get all your money back + what it's cost you so far, no telling what a used motor is going to get you.

underscore
08-20-2012, 10:57 PM
I just did some googling and apparently the G's have a timing chain but plastic chain guides that tend to wear out due to the chain being too sharp or something. So when the motor gets swapped, I'd suggest getting the chain & guides warrantied (if possible) or replaced (apparently it's about $400 in parts) so you don't have to go through this again.

The Captain
08-20-2012, 11:28 PM
I'd pull the head and look at the pistons myself. If you have compression I'd be willing to bet the bottom is fine. A new head and you're in business. My 2 cents.

Murgatroy
08-21-2012, 12:57 AM
I know a guy, that knows a guy...

Hookecho
08-23-2012, 07:05 PM
Well, the guy is doing the right thing. The used motor we got has 80'000 miles on verified by the odometer and carfax. The car took a side impact in the passenger door and quarter panel. The motor was $1300 and the labor plus fluids was $800. The warranty covered $1000 of that and I split the rest with him. When all is said and done I will have spent $550 out of my pocket. Well worth it to not have to do the work myself. The car should be ready sometime next week. I kept the old motor for parts. I'll put it on a stand and tear into it to see what happened. If all it needs is head work then I will have that done. If the motor needs a rebuild then I may do it and have a spare motor. Either way I have plenty of spare parts.

Murgatroy
08-23-2012, 07:26 PM
Well at least it had a happy ending.

richee3
08-23-2012, 07:29 PM
That's a crappy deal... Not the worst outcome, but crappy nonetheless. I bought a Z a couple of months ago and it seems like Nissan builds basically good products, but has an "eh" factor. Like "Eh, that 3.5 liter worked great in the Maxima, so we don't need to test it here." or "Eh, that plastic chain guide is good enough."

Hopefully the new engine gets you many happy miles and the old engine can be sold to recoup some cash!

Nitro_Alltrac
08-24-2012, 12:41 AM
Glad things are working Bruce.

T-spoon
08-24-2012, 03:08 AM
Sounds like a pretty good deal to me, given it's a used car and all that. Not having to do the swap yourself is a major plus.

Hookecho
08-24-2012, 03:25 AM
Yeah, The guy could have easily told me to pound sand. He seemed a bit reluctant to hold up for it at first but after listening to me go on about integrity and professionalism I think he was motivated to do the right thing. Plus, I was very polite with him and he could see I was being reasonable when I offered to pay half of the expense rather than make him eat the whole thing.

Hookecho
10-05-2012, 12:48 AM
Well, alot has transpired since August.

As of two days ago the Infiniti had been sitting at the the repair shop for 40 days or so. The guy I bought it from and his mechanic had been giving me the runaround for far to long. First they said the motor is enroute, then the motor arrived but was the wrong motor, then they sent it back and ordered another motor, then that fell through and they found one locally that they were waiting on and so on and so forth. I kept giving them the benefit of the doubt anyway because it was my impression that they had already spent the money on a motor. Plus I had given these guys $350 up front to go toward my half of the costs after the warranty paid out.

I finally got tired of the bullshit and showed up with a tow truck this past Tuesday. The mechanic had already pulled the motor out of the car and it had been sitting outside for two weeks with the exhaust and transmission hanging from the mounts. I took the hood off and hoisted the trans and exhaust with a ratchet strap. I loaded my old motor and all of the parts into my truck and the car went on the tow truck. Then I got my $350 back from the guy I bought the car from and shagged ass.

After I got the car in my shop I saw that the jack legged mechanic put the hood on top of the car while he pulled the motor and scuffed the hell out of the paint. Looked like his belt buckle scratched the paint on the fenders and he also marred the radiator up while lifting the motor. Being that the trans was hanging from the mount it needed replacing also.

Yesterday I drove to Biloxi, MS. and bought a nice, clean motor with 70,237 miles on it. Came with an uncut harness for a spare. They plug all of the openings where dirt can get in with plastic end caps. Payed $1350 for it. The place was called Arguelles Automotive and these guys are top notch used parts dealers. That place is very clean and very organized. The staff are pleasant to deal with. I was impressed. After a tasty crawfish poboy we hauled ass back to Florence.

Today I went and bought a bunch of parts and dropped the motor in the car. I still need to route and fasten the wire harness then plug the connectors up to everything. Then button up the exhaust and install a few other things. Then vacuum and charge the a/c and fill with fluids. I need to buy the stuff I need to polish the paint.

Anyway, when I'm finished I will tally up my time and expenses then take Mr. Jerk Face to small claims court. I wish I had handled this all myself to begin with but lesson learned.

CollapsedNut
10-05-2012, 01:01 AM
Ah damn. Thats some shit Bruce

Nitro_Alltrac
10-05-2012, 01:13 AM
I know this is probably an isolated incident, but this makes me glad I didn't pick up the G sedan that I looked at a month ago.

Hope this all comes to gather soon for you Bruce.

Hookecho
10-05-2012, 04:30 AM
The VQ35DE has a great reputation. I'm curious to find out what went wrong with this one.

CriScO
10-05-2012, 04:42 AM
Eh, they have their issues. But I see more than most.

Hookecho
10-05-2012, 04:52 AM
Shoulda bought a Honda.

CriScO
10-05-2012, 04:58 AM
I shoulda worked at Honda, but Nissan seemed less objectionable, lol!

Hookecho
10-05-2012, 04:59 AM
The new Altima is a good looking ride.

CriScO
10-05-2012, 05:36 AM
Yeah, I'm waiting for the new coupe. The 2013 coupe is still the old body style with no V6 option. Lame. They haven't announced yet if the coupe will continue in the new style or not, but I hope it will.

So far though every new Altima out of the factory has needed an ECU reprogram. Kind of expected with how ambitious they were with it, but I'd still keep away until at least the 2014 model...

METDeath
10-05-2012, 11:40 AM
Yeah, I'm waiting for the new coupe. The 2013 coupe is still the old body style with no V6 option. Lame. They haven't announced yet if the coupe will continue in the new style or not, but I hope it will.

So far though every new Altima out of the factory has needed an ECU reprogram. Kind of expected with how ambitious they were with it, but I'd still keep away until at least the 2014 model...

Never buy first year of a new body style unless you just can't wait. Or the first gen of a completely new vehicle.

Murgatroy
10-05-2012, 11:41 AM
Would be a shame if the cat got pulled over everytime he left his house...

Hipster Lawrence
10-05-2012, 12:04 PM
The VQ35DE has a great reputation. I'm curious to find out what went wrong with this one.

The timing chain tensioners don't. I bet that's what failed on yours. Likely caused by running cheap oil or from not changing the oil. I just did a maxima that had only 90k and one of the secondary tensioners was bad and making all kinds of racket.

Hookecho
10-05-2012, 12:52 PM
Yeah, I had that chain slap for a split second on start up. When researching it on infinitihelp.com and other forums it was said to be normal as the tensioner had to pressurize. I imagine that is what failed too due to poor oil and infrequent oil changes. As it got worse after a few days of driving and lasted several seconds after start up. I bought new ones this time.

Luni
10-05-2012, 11:10 PM
My 7th gen has a clacky noise on startup. Its had it ever since I put my motor in though.

Its either my chain tensioner or my VVTI mechanism in the intake cam. After I fix my MR2, Ill be pulling my motor, fixing 2nd gear synchro in the tranny, and replacing the chain, tensioners, cams, and seals.

Nitro_Alltrac
10-05-2012, 11:31 PM
I'll make you a good deal on an HHR. It's just got noise in the front from shitty 11" sway bar links.

Hipster Lawrence
10-06-2012, 02:34 AM
Yeah, I had that chain slap for a split second on start up. When researching it on infinitihelp.com and other forums it was said to be normal as the tensioner had to pressurize. I imagine that is what failed too due to poor oil and infrequent oil changes. As it got worse after a few days of driving and lasted several seconds after start up. I bought new ones this time.

Were you running a factory oil filter? I've seen 3.5s with startup rattle that was due to a shit oil filter.

Hookecho
10-06-2012, 03:14 AM
I don't remember. I know I changed the oil after buying it and used a wix filter. Should I start using a factory one?

CriScO
10-06-2012, 03:27 AM
I don't remember. I know I changed the oil after buying it and used a wix filter. Should I start using a factory one?
As long as you've got something with a good anti-drainback valve your fine, but Nissan does make pretty damn nice filters. Remind me on Monday and I'll take pics of our cutaway.

Hipster Lawrence
10-06-2012, 03:45 AM
I'm sure there are aftermarket filters that are great quality but why risk it. If you don't buy the 3,000 mile oil change bs it's no more expensive than using inexpensive aftermarket filters.

I use oe or oem filters on everything I work on. So yeah if I were you I'd run a Nissan filter I bet it's about $7. As for oil I would probably run a synthetic like M1 in a 3.5 Nissan just for piece of mind. Of you saw the sizes of some of the oil passages on that thing you'd shit a brick. And it has to go everywhere 3 tensioners 2 multi stage oil control valves that run 2 oil pressure operated cam phasers. And it has to lubricate the engine. And what does it hold 4.5 qts? I'd still be totally comfortable with a 6,000 mile oil change interval.

The Captain
10-06-2012, 02:56 PM
Shoulda bought a Mercedes.
fixed

Hookecho
10-06-2012, 03:50 PM
Women..

Hookecho
10-10-2012, 12:40 AM
$2,000 plus 12 hours labor and it's done. Runs great and the a/c blows cold. Couldn't ask for more at this point.

CollapsedNut
10-10-2012, 02:54 AM
You shoulda let me come leave some coolant lines loose for you.

Hookecho
10-10-2012, 05:36 AM
If I need a clutch line hooked up I'll holler at you.

Hipster Lawrence
10-10-2012, 12:39 PM
$2,000 plus 12 hours labor and it's done. Runs great and the a/c blows cold. Couldn't ask for more at this point.

Any cold start clatter?

Hookecho
10-10-2012, 02:11 PM
Negative.

CollapsedNut
10-10-2012, 05:48 PM
If I need a clutch line hooked up I'll holler at you.

Bitch please. That line was F'ed before I laid hands on it.

Hipster Lawrence
10-10-2012, 07:37 PM
Negative.

Must not be normal huh?

Hookecho
10-10-2012, 09:13 PM
Exactly. Yet another reason to distrust the internet.

richee3
10-12-2012, 12:43 AM
This thread makes me scared of my 350Z. Especially since I'm used to Toyotas and a 90k mile service, where the local Nissan dealership merely recommends changing my transmission fluid.