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View Full Version : turbo problemes now....



819_ay
05-19-2012, 03:29 PM
so i've been noticing that when i floor my st185, with an avc-r,and when i put the boost to 12lbs and duty at 65% , well it's stay at 12 between 3000-6000 then goes down to 8 lbs for the rest of the gear. why won't it keep the 12 lbs all way through, i heard it might be because the turbo , reached it's max efficiency or something to do with the wastegate??? any one have any ideas???

i'm not too familiar with the avc-r yet , i'm still trying to figure it out lol....


thanks in advance

Mafix
05-20-2012, 12:56 AM
you have a boost leak. there is no way those settings are close to correct.

819_ay
05-20-2012, 03:10 PM
what would be the correct settings for 12 lbs?? my avc-r is in kg/cm2 so 12 lbs is aroung .70 kg/cm2...i'll have to check for the leak i guess...thanks

The Captain
05-20-2012, 03:17 PM
Are you running a stock CT26?

Luni
05-20-2012, 07:03 PM
You won't hold boost to redline with a 26 anyway. Not even 12 lbs.

819_ay
05-21-2012, 01:48 AM
yeah stock ct26...so it's the turbo that can't hold the boost through out the gear? i also have a fmic 2inch piping, i was thinking about putting the stock ic, to see if it will make a difference since the air doesnt have to travel as far, and i was thinking the 2inch piping might be causing some restrictions?

jdm_celica_gts
05-21-2012, 03:46 AM
My stock ct26 will hold 9 lbs to redline

4thgenceli
05-21-2012, 04:50 AM
going to a TMIC will decrease your spool time (turbo lag).

819_ay
05-21-2012, 02:05 PM
but maybe the is a leak in the piping or in the IC it's self, it got a little banged up, so yeah either that i'll have to change the turbo i guess, but no cashflow right now for that, need to put the money elsewhere....so the stock ct26 won't hold boost all the way ...i'll have to start looking for a ct20b ,

T-spoon
05-21-2012, 03:57 PM
You won't hold boost to redline with a 26 anyway. Not even 12 lbs.

I don't remember a huge drop-off in boost, just power..

Mafix
05-21-2012, 05:19 PM
a worn ct26 will not hold boost. a proper one will hold much more to red line.
there is no proven or butt dyno difference in the stock ic vs a fmic with respect to lag.
2 inch tubing is too damn small
a banged up intercooler? pressure test it.

The Captain
05-21-2012, 11:22 PM
yeah stock ct26...

That explains everything.

819_ay
05-22-2012, 06:10 PM
so i took the fmic off yesterday, took it for a ride and well everything is back to normal, without the boost controler on, i get 8-9 lbs instead of 6-7 lbs, and with it on, it boost 12lbs all the way through out the gear, i dont understand why you guys say it won't ...but yesterday and today it keeps its pressure all the way with the TMIC , so i'm guessing ether the IC had a leak or maybe the bov is fucked...but anyways i'll keep to TMIC for now, until i get bigger IC piping and a bigger turbo...if i wanted to put 2.5 or 3 inch piping, would a ct20b be big enough that it won't lag too much, or should i just keep the TMIC , because even with the FMIC (the way i had my setup) the piping come out of the FMIC , would pass right over the engine, and well it would get really hot, so with the top mount it still get hot so i'm figuring there not much difference....

jdm_celica_gts
05-22-2012, 08:46 PM
The bigger the turbo the longer it takes to spool (lag). If your not shooting for more than 400 hp the tmic (preferably wta) would be good and have less lag.

819_ay
05-22-2012, 09:23 PM
not its a ata ic but no i'm not going to 400hp, dont need that much lol... i guess i will just stick the tmic less trouble , and it heats up almost as much as over the engine ic piping, unless i can find another route for the piping...

thanks guys appreciate it...

T-spoon
05-23-2012, 12:47 AM
The ATA top mount is a serious piece of junk. You likely just had a boost leak in your piping somewhere and the FMIC is fine. I still say you should be able to run the front mount and hold the boost even with a stock CT26. Any gain from response you'll get with that top mount will disappear once that thing heatsoaks, which will happen quickly, even if it's not super hot outside. I hated life with the ATA on my 185. Even the greddy sidemount on my MR2 was a major improvement (it held 15 psi just fine, too).

819_ay
05-23-2012, 08:06 PM
Well honestly the thing with the FMIC is that the piping would pass right over the engine and when i would touch is it would be super hot, as hot as the top mount, so honestly i think the air cools down with the fmic then heats right back up over the engine, because honestly there would be times that i couldn't even touch the pipe over the engine, even with reflect-a-gold tape, i know that the tape would be hot outside but inside should be colder...anyways...i'll have to put the piping together and check for leaks or something...could it be the BOV that was leaking??i find the car is running a whole lot better now after i took the FMIC off...so obviously there was something wrong with it...
and yes the tmic does get heatsoaked, it does get very hot under the hood especially in the summer , i'm thinking of getting a mishimoto rad, would it help with the scorching heat under the hood???i also have my DP wraped with titanium heat wrap...it just get so dam hot under there , i'm trying to get the temperature down lol...

Hookecho
05-24-2012, 02:58 AM
Just because the charge pipe is hot doesn't mean the charge air is. The charge air exiting a FMIC is moving to fast to get heat soaked like it does with the top mount. With the TMIC the charge air leaves the turbo hot as hell, then flows through the hot ass intercooler, then into the motor. It never has a chance to get cooled at all.

T-spoon
05-24-2012, 03:37 AM
Just because the charge pipe is hot doesn't mean the charge air is. The charge air exiting a FMIC is moving to fast to get heat soaked like it does with the top mount. With the TMIC the charge air leaves the turbo hot as hell, then flows through the hot ass intercooler, then into the motor. It never has a chance to get cooled at all.

^ Yep.

Also, 819_ay, the evidence that it now runs better with the TMIC does not prove there's something wrong with the front mount itself. 9 times out of 10 the issue is with piping, clamps, sleeves, etc. Sure, a BOV can be a boost leak, but the other things I mentioned are more likely to be.

rizin
05-24-2012, 03:57 AM
What type of clamps was you using for all your connections Between the piping? T bolt or screw type or? Yes your BOV could of been the problem. Thing that sucks is your front mount setup is not on the car so pressure testing it out of the car you could of corrected the problem in a connection of the piping. Your boost pressure should not changed that much with a front mount compared to the top unless you had a leak like said above.

Edit: Damn I am slow typing when I am watching tv.

Hookecho
05-24-2012, 04:56 AM
Edit: Damn I am slow typing when I am watching tv.

Judging from the sentences you put together I suspect beer was involved too.

819_ay
05-24-2012, 05:14 PM
Just because the charge pipe is hot doesn't mean the charge air is. The charge air exiting a FMIC is moving to fast to get heat soaked like it does with the top mount. With the TMIC the charge air leaves the turbo hot as hell, then flows through the hot ass intercooler, then into the motor. It never has a chance to get cooled at all.
yeah i know that, i said it in one of my post above, thanks


What type of clamps was you using for all your connections Between the piping? T bolt or screw type or? Yes your BOV could of been the problem. Thing that sucks is your front mount setup is not on the car so pressure testing it out of the car you could of corrected the problem in a connection of the piping. Your boost pressure should not changed that much with a front mount compared to the top unless you had a leak like said above.

Edit: Damn I am slow typing when I am watching tv.
i was using a combination of t-bolt and screw type, what i can do though is i can put everything back together(the fmic) not on the car and check for leaks with a vacuum and some water or something, that usually works fine, but how can i test the BOV, it's welded to the piping,

i appreciate all your help guys...

rizin
05-25-2012, 05:10 AM
If it was me I would make a pressure tester out of pvc tube and caps. In the one cap install a valve stem and a pipe thread to barbed fitting. From the barbed fitting you could run a vacuum tubing to the BOV. That is all I can think of at the moment.

819_ay
05-25-2012, 05:18 PM
yeah i'm gonna have try to figure something out, since i can't take the bov off i'd have to cut it off basically, anyways the top mount works for now...until i figure something out, with the front mount, it's only 2 inch piping, so maybe i should just leave it and get bigger piping....would bigger piping make any difference(good and bad)?? let's say 2.5 inch since 3 inch is kinda big i think.