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View Full Version : ATTN: Koreanjoey and any other auto crosser or road courser



allTRACway
03-21-2012, 08:31 PM
So I'm getting my All-Trac ready for auto cross and I'm stuck as to what to do for wheels. From my understanding a smaller side wall would be good for cornering but it is possible to go to small. I'm looking at a set of rims that are 17x8.5 with that I would have a sidewall of about 40 and if I went to 18s I would go down to 35 for sidewall ratio. I'm looking at going to either 900 front and 700 rear spring rates or going up 200 on both. These numbers are just guesses from reading others posts. I'm still trying to learn as much as I can so anything anyone has would be great. Thanks everyone

KoreanJoey
03-21-2012, 11:42 PM
It really depends on the surface your running on and also what the gear ratio will end up being with the car. 17x8.5 seems kind of narrow to me personally. I'd look at 17x9 or 17x9.5 to run 245s on 17s. I run a 245/35R17 Toyo R1R on my celica but AFAIK that's the only 35 series street tire. Most likely availability would be a 245/40R17 (available in many different sticky tires).

The spring rate also depends on the surface your running on. If it's a bumpier surface you might find that's a too stiff and you're giving up too much traction. I'd probably look at 200 lower than that to start and make adjustments with swaybars and tire pressure.

Invest in a good tire gauge and a pyrometer to check the tire temps. Using those two you can play with the tire pressures and also the alignment to find what works best for the car.

donteatbugs
03-22-2012, 08:14 PM
I ran 17x8 +35 up front and you will need more wheel than that to hold an alltrac on point. If a 17x9 with a 255 or 265 would fit with a 40 series sidewall then I would look at that. You will have to roll or pull your front fenders to fit a 9" wide wheel but the rear should just be rolled a little. I ran 520lb fr 370 lb rear and liked the over all ride on the street. It could be better around 650 or 7 on the front and maybe 450 rear. I also had the whiteline adjustable rear sway bar and koni yellows all around. I never ran the car on sticky tire but im sure it would have been a beast.

allTRACway
03-23-2012, 12:35 PM
Hey thanks guys. The car won't be driven on the street much other than to tracks or shows. So maybe starting with 700 and 500 would be better.

A rather large issue I'm having is finding sway bars that are adjustable for the front and rear and camber plates for the rear. Once I get home I'll most likely have a shop make me some upper suspension tower bars.

donteatbugs
03-23-2012, 03:18 PM
I have Most of what you need.

converted strut housings
front camber bolts
whiteline adjustable rear sway bar w/ endlinks
front camber plates
rear 3 point strut bar
and 3 sets of 6" long 2.5 ID eibach springs 520# 370# 300#

You need to add coilover sleeves, rear camber bolts, 4 konis, front strut tower bar, and whatever springs you want.

You will have a hard time with camber plates in the rear because the hole isnt big enough for adjustment.

alltracman78
03-23-2012, 06:33 PM
Why would you need camber plates and bolts?
Wouldn't the bolts by themselves give enough adjustment?

And what about rounding out the holes on the strut to knuckle bracket?
Wouldn't that be better than camber bolts [because they're thinner than normal]?

I don't race, so I'm just curious about this. :)

donteatbugs
03-23-2012, 08:19 PM
I used the bolts to set a static camber on both sides and then used the plates to add another degree and a half, I was at -2.5 front. My alltrac had been wrecked so the camber with stock bolts was off on one side. the ingalls cammed bolts work better than the oem crash bolts too.

RedRkt01
03-23-2012, 09:07 PM
How do you like those Noltec units?