PDA

View Full Version : Big 3, good wire/fuses/etc?



crymson
02-22-2012, 01:46 AM
So, getting ready for summer projects (i konw, it's only febuary) I think I want to do the big 3, and I'm looking for input on good places to get wire, fuses, contacts, etc.

Also, I've seen people say that the wire should be anywhere from 4 guage up to 0 guage, is 4 enough, or should I go bigger? And a second question, should I remove the stock wire and replace it, or add the new wire in addition to the original?

Eric Barrera
02-22-2012, 05:32 AM
I replaced all the stock wire with 0 gauge. I bought a roll of 50 ft for about 55 shipped from ebay. Good thick wire, and now when the car is at idle with the system bumping. (2000 watt PA amp with 2 12' infinty references.) I stay at constant 14 volt. Definitely a very very good upgrade.

david in germany
02-22-2012, 09:11 AM
For wire I use http://www.knukonceptz.com/ for terminals and eyelets I use www.waytekwire.com. Unless you are going over 2-3k watts (RMS) 4g wire will be fine. I actually ran my big 3 with the stock alternator wire still in place (more wire is better was my thought process). all grounds were replaced completely though. Make sure you use a good crimping tool and heat shrink on all the connections to seal out moisture . The heat shrink and crimping tool can be both purchased at Waytek as well.

4thgenceli
02-22-2012, 05:25 PM
Agree with dig. I used knukonceptz for ask my wire and fuses. 1/0 gauge runs from back to front, 4 gauge to starter, fuse block and alternator and 0 gauge for engine bay grounds

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

crymson
02-23-2012, 10:04 AM
I had actually been wondering about knukonceptz, the name threw me a little.

This puts me on the right track, thanks again.

crymson
02-25-2012, 10:24 AM
I have more questions now.

When I run the wire, I should put a fuse on the battery to alternator (+) line, closest to the battery, correct?
Is it worth the expense to find new ring terminals for the battery, or are the factory ones "good enough" (Mine are recently replaced and in good condition)?
The stock alternator on the 7th Gen (if I'm reading right) is 80amps, correct? If so, then I want my fuse to be an 80a, correct?
Now, I've also been thinking about this group buy on Iraggi alternators that's going on, if I decide that's how I want to spend my tax refund, should I wait, since that's going to push me up to 180a, and fuse with 180a (it seems like fuses and their holders jump in size somewhere around ~120a)?

I think that's all the questions I have for the moment, but I'm sure I'll come up with some more.

temperacerguy
02-25-2012, 11:58 AM
No, no need to fuse the alternator to battery wire. Typically you want to fuse runs of wire where there's a chance of the wire getting grounded, for example where the wire has a chance of being cut or abrading. The longer the run, the more opportunity for accidental grounding.

The only time that I would run a fuse on the Alternator wire is if I were trunk mounting the battery.

4thgenceli
02-25-2012, 05:50 PM
I have more questions now.

When I run the wire, I should put a fuse on the battery to alternator (+) line, closest to the battery, correct?
Is it worth the expense to find new ring terminals for the battery, or are the factory ones "good enough" (Mine are recently replaced and in good condition)?
I think that's all the questions I have for the moment, but I'm sure I'll come up with some more.

I have relocated my battery to the cargo area in my st162 (pictures & everything are in my project thread).

From the battery, I have a 200a fuse from 12" from the battery (give or take). Then the wire runs into the engine bay where it is split to the alternator, starter and fuse block. If you're just doing a big3 upgrade, don't worry about adding a fuse in the engine bay. If you relocate, stick a fuse in there.

david in germany
02-25-2012, 06:57 PM
Fuse Rule 1. Fuse on any wire should not have a rating higher than the wires amperage capability. If the wire is rated for 150a the fuse should be blowing at less than 150a the typical 150a fuse will take about 250a before it pops.. Keep that in mind. The fuse should be protecting the car by not allowing the wire to catch on fire from too much current flow.

temperacerguy
02-25-2012, 11:33 PM
I have relocated my battery to the cargo area in my st162 (pictures & everything are in my project thread).

From the battery, I have a 200a fuse from 12" from the battery (give or take). Then the wire runs into the engine bay where it is split to the alternator, starter and fuse block. If you're just doing a big3 upgrade, don't worry about adding a fuse in the engine bay. If you relocate, stick a fuse in there.

Burny, that 200a fuse is enough to crank over your starter without blowing? Hmmm that's going to simplify things

I've been wondering...

To simplify my wiring, I was going to run a single 1/0 cable from my batteries located in the trunk area to a distribution block at the distribution block, I was going to run a 4 guage wire to the fusebox along the firewall, and a 2 guage wire to the alternator, then daisychain that wire over to my starter. As long as I have good, clean contacts, this should be feasible correct? I don't see why not... but it's always the things you don't consider that end up biting you in the ass.

As I am building a new harness, This should be something I can hide within a loom to clean up the engine bay.

crymson
02-26-2012, 07:47 AM
Fuse Rule 1. Fuse on any wire should not have a rating higher than the wires amperage capability. If the wire is rated for 150a the fuse should be blowing at less than 150a the typical 150a fuse will take about 250a before it pops.. Keep that in mind. The fuse should be protecting the car by not allowing the wire to catch on fire from too much current flow.

is that a fixed ratio, or is there some kind of formula for finding the actual point a fuse blows?

david in germany
02-26-2012, 10:15 AM
There is no manic ratio, look at the wire manufacturers info on the wire you buy.there are some charts about wire length/gauge needed that you could use. Remember all wire is not the same. Some may say 4 gauge but only have a thick jacket and fewer wires. This is why you can't go wrong with Knu, their 4 is actually a 3G wire there 0 gauge is larger than the normal 0 gauge as well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

crymson
02-26-2012, 01:55 PM
Sorry I wasn't clear, I meant about the fuses. Are fuses roughly a 3 to 5 (150a to 250a) on rated amperage vs the point they actually "pop"?

david in germany
02-26-2012, 05:38 PM
From what I have heard (cannot confirm) expect double amperage of rating for a short period before popping.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD