View Full Version : System 10 Wiring problems

02-04-2012, 09:23 PM
I have a couple questions; What is the second antenna looking cable with a smaller plug? I installed the Metra plug into my factory harness to make wiring easier but I do not have any 12 volt or swichable 12V power. I read that the system 10 amp powers the head unit but when going with an aftermarket HU and amp, how do I get these two power supplies up to the factory plug? If anyone is familiar with this dilema, please call me 609-268-7327 (marty).

david in germany
02-08-2012, 08:22 AM
have a peek at this thread.

02-09-2012, 02:13 AM
David, I have already looked over that a few times but it does not explain the extra antenna looking cable. Since the HU is powered by the amp, which wire is my switchable 12V? In your system 10 reply attached to that thread, you mention the factory amp being 5 channels. Based on the the output wiring, it appears to be a 6 channel (RF, LF, Right sub, Left sub, RR and LR).

david in germany
02-09-2012, 10:24 PM
Good catch, it is a 6 channel. I can't remember exactly but I think it was pin 1 or pin 9. Acc or amp is what they are labeled in the diagram. The second mini antenna is for the original diversity antenna for the deck

02-10-2012, 03:22 AM
David, I was reading your reply to an individual back in 2005 on Celispeed. I need some clarification. The plug that I pulled out of the back of my factory HU is the plug that I used to plug into the Metra plug. There is no accessory 12 volt coming from the factory plug. There is another plug assembly tucked into the back of the pocket. Is that for the radio also or is that for some other car function. With out turning the key on, I have two hot 12 volt wires coming from the remaining wires off the speaker outlet plug on the factory amp. The last two brown wires are the ground. The small gage wire plug goes back up to the head unit, which I confirmed with a continuity test. I know how to wire my new JL XD600/6 amp and my new AVH3300BT Pioneer deck but I am not sure where to get my switchable 12 Volt. I also replaced all my speakers with Morels, so I am getting pretty jumpy to get this system hooked up. Any help would be appreciated.

david in germany
02-10-2012, 08:35 AM
Ok, if you are going to use the Jl XD600/6 to run the entire system, it just got REALLY easy! Yes there is another harness in there. what you should see is a y type connector but with 3 plugs, one pluged into the stock deck and the other 2 go into the cars original radio harness. The system 10 is not a normal factory option like other thing are. The car was built, then someone walked by the cars and said, put this stereo system in this car, then the carpet and seats were added. you need to pull that harness and amp out of the car and do whatever you like with it. Then get the normal toyota wire harness and wire up your new system using the JL to power everything!

02-10-2012, 06:01 PM
So what you are saying is, the harness that I have my Metra pig tail connected to is worthless and that I should remove. I have already ran RCA Monster cables to the amp under the carpet, so there would be no need to run the tiny speaker wires in that harness. Is there another open ended plug in the pocket that I should hook my Metra pig tail to or should I unplug something else and use that connection. Like I mentioned before, I can use the blue hot from the amp feed and run that to the deck but I am still missing the 12 V switchable feed. I am also looking for 12 volt switchable wire that I can tap into for some under dash lights. Any idea. The switch that will power them will be in the alarm push out or the power seat push out in the center console.

david in germany
02-10-2012, 06:26 PM
Please post a couple of pics of what you have at the moment. You should be able to get the 2 piece metra adapter and plug it into the harness that the system 10 harness is plugged into now. If you are adding the jl 6 channel amp you do NOT want to run it withe the system 10 amp or harness in the car.

david in germany
02-10-2012, 06:29 PM
If you get the metra 2 piece harness you will have connections to all speakers(except the doors), illumination, constant and switched12v as well as ground. Bottom line, remove the system 10 harness and amp and then start with the 2 piece metra harness.

02-12-2012, 12:46 AM
David, there are two plug connections (male to female) that are tucked to the side with electrical tape holding them together. Is one of those my factory harness and if I unplug them, what end should I use? Will my Metra plug that plugged into the factory double din plug fit into them? I don't know what the two piece Metra kit is but I don't need speaker connections. My main goal is to get a 12V, 12V Acc, antenna, and illumination wires. I can use the old system 10 harness wires to get to the amp for my trigger wire. Any thoughts? If you send me your E-mail, I will take a picture of the plugs in the pocket and send it to you. Not sure how to post on here.

david in germany
02-12-2012, 10:28 AM
The metra harness you have will not work with the non system 10 plugs in the car if it plugs into the system 10 harness. Yes, the 2 male and female plugs are what you want to disconnect, you will need to get the metra to use the male ones. once you disconnect those cables do not use any of the wires going to the sys 10 amp.
*Post number 4 in the thread I linked above has the pic of the harness you need.
For pics, go to the gallery link at the top of the page and have them hosted here.

02-12-2012, 06:58 PM
David, I disconnected the two plugs that were tucked in the back. I got 12V constant from the blue yellow stripe wire but the gray wire next to it, which should be 12V accessory is dead with the key on at access through my meter. I am using my frame as a ground, which worked for the constant 12V. Do you think that the accessory fuse is blown and if so, where is it. I have a few other questions

There appears to be no illumination wire on either of the two plugs. Do I need to hook my new head unit orange to anything?

Since the smaller of the two plugs is worthless in my installation, can I get a Metra plug for just the larger or do I have to get a 2 into 1 splitter. In either case, do you know what that Metra number is.

david in germany
02-12-2012, 09:39 PM
I am not sure what he metra number is but it is about $10-12 for both together. If you use the pic I mentioned above and match it up to your harness, you will see which wire should do what. If you don't have 12v switched you do need to check the fuses. If you could wait a week or so I can send you the proper metra harness, it will only cost you the wait and pass on the good fortune to someone in need down the road.

The dimmer on the small plug is actually a dimming ground so don't use it. The big plug does have a lumination wire though that is hot when the lights are on.
If you want the harness shot me a pm with your address.

david in germany
02-12-2012, 09:53 PM
Grey with 2 silver rings is switched 12v, blue with yellow stripe is 12v constant, brown is ground, green with silver ring is illumination.
Right front+ light green right front - is blue, left front + is pink, left fron - is purple.

Hope that helps for the moment.

02-12-2012, 11:32 PM
The Metra part number for a non System 10 harness is 70-1761.

02-13-2012, 12:01 AM
Thanks for the number. Got it on order from Sonic for $7.95 shipped. Thanks Dave for that option but I will probably get it quicker from these guys. The $8 bucks is a drop in the bucket to my system cost. My final dilema to this install is the missing voltage to my gray wire with the key on accessory. Without me digging through my shop manual, does anyone know where the accessory fuse is? Does this fuse just do the radio or does it protect other components?

david in germany
02-13-2012, 11:10 AM
Fuse panel in the drivers kick I would believe.

02-25-2012, 05:19 PM
David, got everything hooked up, adjusted my amp but no sound out of my front mids and tweets. I did an impedence check before I started to ring out all my speaker wires, Now I am open on those front channels. According to the wiring schematic from the factory amp, those wires should go straight to the speakers. I did not mess with anything other than those two factory plugs tucked in the back. I only used the one Metra plug for the power and switch 12v, since I ran RCA cables to my amp. Any ideas?

One other question, on my pioneer deck (AVH P3300BT), I ran the door subs off the sub RCA outputs on the HU. I calibrated the channels with a 50 hz test tone. Should I switch the amp to off on those two channels since the door subs are actually mid basses? Any thoughts.

david in germany
02-25-2012, 06:49 PM
The front speaker wires are in the one metra harness withe power. So as long as you ran speaker signal from the deck into them or from an amp into them you should have sound in the front.

I don't understand the question about switching the amp to off. Run around 100hz and below to the door speakers and you should be fine.
You are running a 5 channel amp correct?

Run all the speaker wires from the amp to the plug in the dash (not the door woofers though)and use the stock wires out to each of the speakers, this is the easiest way.

02-25-2012, 08:12 PM
So I guess what you are saying is that the (pink and violet) and (blue and light green) go back up into that plug that I have the Metra harness tied to. I just don't remember seeing those color wires coming from any of those two plugs. I was going to use those wires, since they had continuity before. I will pull it back out and check the wires. The switch on the amp is for the sub channel filters. It has high, low and off. The switch in the off position allows all frequencies. Just one thing, why would Toyota run the speaker wires buck up into the harness and not right out to the speakers. Hooking up the other wires from the factory amp worked except for the front mids and tweets.

david in germany
02-26-2012, 12:30 AM
Use the low switch on the amp. Toyota set the amp harness up so they could remotely mount the amp and not need another harness. The signal leaves the deck, through th e harness to the amp, signal is boosted and sent right back to the dash harness then sent out to the speakers.

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02-26-2012, 03:59 PM
I see what you are talking about. I cut out the factory harness that went back up and ran new 14 gauge wires. I now retuned the amp and set my sensitivity controls with the JL CD of test tones. The sound in my car is unbelievable and that is still with the factory mids and tweets. All I can say is thanks for your help with the system 10 problems. One last question, how do the front and rear mids get removed. Do the outer screens get pryed off, or do you have to remove the whole interior panel?

david in germany
02-26-2012, 05:08 PM
For the removal of the fronts you will need to remove the under dash panel on the drivers side and for the passenger side you need to open the glove box and then drop the entire panel down the hood release has 2 screws on the drivers side that you can't forget and be carefully of the glove box light wire. On both sides you will need to pull the plastic piece that connects the plastic piece in the thresh hold and the dash parts. Under the key cylinder there is a little plastic cover that also that covers 3 screws iirc.
All you should need is a Philips screw driver to remove the panels and a 10mm socket to pull the speaker boxes out.

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