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UtahSleeper
11-30-2011, 07:05 PM
So, when spring hits I plan on painting one of my cars(Celica Alltrac). I am new to painting and I want to use a paint that may not be fancy, but will look good. My question is what type should I get? (Acrylic, Urethane, laquer, enamel)

When looking at summit and my local paint shop I see alot of different options and blends and not really sure which I should go for.

I was looking at this type of paint:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SHW-BSP209/
Thier website makes it seem like you can have them mix the color you want also.

Also, how much paint for color do you normally need?

Thanks :)

Luni
11-30-2011, 07:10 PM
Paging Captain.

Hipster Lawrence
11-30-2011, 08:38 PM
Urethane.

My advice pay someone to do it. If its less than $3000 it's a shit paint job. You could do some of the prep yourself to save some $. If it's been resprayed before you'll want to take it down to metal.

UtahSleeper
11-30-2011, 08:52 PM
Paying 3k or more for a paint job really isn't something I would do. I am not trying to have some amazing paint. I just want good, durable, remotely reflective paint :) And I would rather do it myself to learn, and when I mess one of the cars up (The alltrac will be a winter fun car, and corolla will be drift, drag, autoX) I wont be mad and can also fix it myself.

MCcelica
12-01-2011, 08:44 PM
PPG makes a good base coat for if you want to DIY. You'll need a good (and large) compressor. And a valve/gauge for right at the base of the HVLP gun. You'll open the valve at the compressor wide open and set the pressure at the HVLP gun with the valve/gauge that's attached to the gun. (That was the part I figured out the hard way and have spent lots more time sanding than I'd hoped).

Good news is, if you jack it up bad enough, all you gotta do is wait and sand it off and start over.

UtahSleeper
12-01-2011, 08:57 PM
Unfortunately I don't have a HVLP gun, but I know I can make use of the one I have.

Anyone know the difference between Urethane and Acrylic Urethane paint?

MCcelica
12-02-2011, 01:23 AM
Dude, if you're painting a car, you'll need an HVLP gun. (stands for High Volume Low Pressure) DeVilbiss makes a good two gun starter kit. One for primer, one for color and clear. Cost like $150 brand new for two guns. It's called "StartingLine". Look into it. If you're doing it yourself, you'll thank me later.

Hipster Lawrence
12-02-2011, 01:33 AM
Paying 3k or more for a paint job really isn't something I would do. I am not trying to have some amazing paint. I just want good, durable, remotely reflective paint :) And I would rather do it myself to learn, and when I mess one of the cars up (The alltrac will be a winter fun car, and corolla will be drift, drag, autoX) I wont be mad and can also fix it myself.

I got ya. I'm sure you can make it look ok yourself. I've seen rattle can paint jobs look pretty ok. It's all about the prep. If your car is whit you cam probably make it look pretty good.

3k will get you a better than oe quality base/clear. You want amazing paint and the price goes up. It's all about prep though. I work next to a high end custom oriented body shop. You wouldn't believe the work they put into a smile paint job. I had no clue body work was so involved. The use almost no body filler. If they can't pull a dent out the weld in it and grind the welds smooth.

MCcelica
12-02-2011, 01:41 AM
^The front of my 7th gen is rattle can. You wouldn't know it except for the fact that it's not quite as glossy as OEM paint. That's mostly cause I never buffed it though. So troof on the prep work.

aye87
12-02-2011, 03:23 AM
50 dollar rustoleum paint job

joe's gt
12-02-2011, 06:16 AM
Make sure you gotta moisture separater at the compressor and also a moisture filter at the gun.

Eric Barrera
12-02-2011, 07:11 AM
Talk to Zen on here. He rattled canned his car and in person, it looks like a 900 dollar paint job. Just a thought.

MCcelica
12-02-2011, 09:04 AM
Make sure you gotta moisture separater at the compressor and also a moisture filter at the gun.

Probably a good idea for someone in humid areas. I was able to get away without one for mine because the Rocky Mountains are dry enough that it doesn't really become a problem. I'd venture to guess Utah is fairly comparable in dryness. That would be up to the OP to decide really. And OP, I suggest asking the body shops around if they use them

Car_Barn_Bandit
12-02-2011, 10:21 AM
Talk to Zen on here. He rattled canned his car and in person, it looks like a 900 dollar paint job. Just a thought.

How much sanding?

UtahSleeper
12-02-2011, 04:59 PM
Yea, it's pretty dry here.

And my friend that does paint for skywest recommended I use a moisture filter. He has given me tips and ideas, but he lives in nashville now, so he wont be helping like originally planned.

And I will look into those guns.

So, no knowledge of Urethane and Acrylic Urethane paint? Just trying to figure it out quickly since my GF is buying me the base color for my rolla and trac for my xmas gift :)

Lonestag
12-04-2011, 05:21 PM
I did my tercel a while back, l sanded down to the metal and bought good paint but I missed a few key points (like a large compressor) and ended up with somthing that looked fantastic from 40feet but crap at five.

I sell collision parts including all sorts of body supplies (Paint, filler, abrasives, ect...). They are sending me to training this week so I can learn more about our body supplies, I hear it's a hands on class so I'm excited to learn more about painting. Maybe i'll be able to bring back some advice.

KoreanJoey
12-04-2011, 10:09 PM
Probably a good idea for someone in humid areas. I was able to get away without one for mine because the Rocky Mountains are dry enough that it doesn't really become a problem. I'd venture to guess Utah is fairly comparable in dryness. That would be up to the OP to decide really. And OP, I suggest asking the body shops around if they use them

Compressing air will create moisture in even the driest air. Get a filter/separator.

UtahSleeper
12-05-2011, 06:10 AM
I did my tercel a while back, l sanded down to the metal and bought good paint but I missed a few key points (like a large compressor) and ended up with somthing that looked fantastic from 40feet but crap at five.

I sell collision parts including all sorts of body supplies (Paint, filler, abrasives, ect...). They are sending me to training this week so I can learn more about our body supplies, I hear it's a hands on class so I'm excited to learn more about painting. Maybe i'll be able to bring back some advice.

Hands on experience is always nice to bring back and share :)

mckenziejr
12-06-2011, 01:06 AM
you should throw down some water if your not using a booth

MCcelica
12-06-2011, 06:35 AM
Compressing air will create moisture in even the driest air. Get a filter/separator.

This is a good argument. And is worthy of consideration. In fact, I've only done my primer, which came out fine. But considering this argument, I probably will get a separator to do the color coat.

UtahSleeper
12-06-2011, 05:06 PM
I plan on doing the same. I have a few more months to figure out how I will setup the garage and buy stuff to set it up. Found a few good ideas for setup up the garage.

The paint I am going to try is this.
Bronze metallic (http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_5star_bronzemet.html)

joe's gt
12-07-2011, 08:21 AM
Common practice is also to set up a fan that pulls air through a furnace air filter to help with dust particles in the air. That was a major problem for me when I was painting in my dad's carport, even after wetting the ground. If I could do it all over again I would probably just by a bunch of 2x4s to set up a structure, surround it with some plastic, and put a filter on one side and use a fan to pull air through it on the other side.

KoreanJoey
12-13-2011, 05:36 AM
I like the fan blowing air through a filter INTO the enclosure with a vent out. This way you don't worry about pulling flammable spray fumes through the fan.

Eric Barrera
12-13-2011, 06:00 AM
How much sanding?

A shit load

chris_trevisiol
12-23-2011, 09:49 PM
Tips on garage paint jobs, its gona get dirty, prep work is the most important, burry your body work in high build primer, PPG makes a high build sandable primer sealer, all in one is the only way to go.

Scuff up the primer sealer with a scotch brite, the brown ones, then clean with air, surface prep cleaner, and finally a tack cloth.

Spray base coat, and do a few light coats to start then fog that shit on, as long as it doesn't run your fine anything other than a run will be burred in the clear coat.

Get a good quality clear coat (i recommend at least 4000 grade)

wait about an hour or until the base is dry to the touch (called your flash window)

then fog the clear coat on. And i mean bomb it on get as much on there as you can, try to avoid runs but theyll wet sand out.

The more clear you have the easier it is to buff, and the more times it can be buffed before it tears into the base.

pics of my garage paint job are on my profile click to viewhttp://www.celicatech.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=20883&catid=member&imageuser=9457

joe's gt
12-24-2011, 07:47 AM
and finally a tack cloth.

^^^ THIS!!! Tack cloths are amazing for getting off fine particles that stick to the surface even after blasting it with air.

chris_trevisiol
12-28-2011, 04:31 AM
a good surface prep cleaner is a huge factor also, last thing needed is a big hand print that just pops when clear coated. but tack cloths are amazing and, there reusable as long as their kept clean