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View Full Version : Yakima Rack Mounted Hella Ralleye Lights



Car_Barn_Bandit
08-01-2011, 07:41 PM
A few months ago, I landed a great set of lights off of Craigslist for $25 (Hella Ralleye 4000 pencil beam). There was a debate whether I was going to mount these on the bumper (like another member on here) or mount them to a less intrusive place like my Yakima roof rack.

I opted for the Yakima because I will get a better throw, the lights are huge, and it will require no modification to the Celica that is visible. The idea is to run the wiring up the passenger side roof support and have a pigtail that I can tuck up underneath the visor when not in use. When the rack is on, I can plug the harness into that pigtail, and run the wire out the window, and into the rack.

I either modify the rack to handle the wire internally (which I think is the best route) or cable manage it externally. The toggle switch will go on the driver side under the steering wheel in one of the factory switch plates.

Right now, I am searching for a bracket, that will allow me to place the lights forward of the bar a lower toward the roof. I don't need mickey mouse ears, I want the lights as close to the car as possible, but still mounted to the bar. As I figure out the last piece of the puzzle, I will document the installation and successes and failures of this system.

Basically, I am looking to engineer a system that is practical, clean and secure. Also, did I mention I'm trying to be budget minded?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vM7ihdlkSfw/TdtIkj3HY7I/AAAAAAAAAWo/-py7j1yTNPc/hella.jpg

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-09-2011, 12:01 AM
I tried a few different mockups. Everything I tried didn't get me the stability and security required to mount the lights on the bar without a proper setup. If I had access to a welder, I would have a reasonable solution with a custom bracket that drops the lights forward and low.

I am not giving up, I am just going to follow the route of installing a mounting frame on my bumper. I have all the hardware needed, and I am going to toy around with some mockups before I finalize the design and construct it today. I opted to use aluminum and I will construct the lightest, cleanest looking system.

Eric Barrera
08-09-2011, 12:08 AM
I have to see this in person, I still say those are to damn big lol

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-09-2011, 01:52 AM
So here is the mockup that I am going to go with. It is the easiest and cleanest. I had thought about running the support arms diagonally from the bumper/trim to meet the end of the angled bracket. It would look more trapezoidal, but I decided to go with the tried and true orthogonal layout. The hardware is all hex-key and the frame itself is aluminum. I will be painting the mount flat black.

Option A:
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/bracket_603964.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/mount.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/mount_1.jpg

Option B:
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/bracketa.jpg

Eric Barrera
08-09-2011, 02:29 AM
Hencing TO BIG!

Option A though

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-09-2011, 03:38 AM
I modified Option A. I have measurements for this bracket if anyone wants to make one themselves in the future. Write-up coming...

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/bracketb.jpg

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-09-2011, 05:47 PM
Here is some final adjustment and fitting:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/img_20110808_204235.jpg

Here is the frame without the light brackets installed:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/img_20110809_080112.jpg

I'll have the final dimensions, along with the installed lights up tonight when I get off of work. Then I will figure out the electrical wiring for this setup. Each light has a harness with 3 wires. I assume one is power, one it ground, and one is for a relay circuit.

Eric Barrera
08-09-2011, 06:09 PM
Looking good

grimmythereaper
08-09-2011, 06:28 PM
looking very nice

Facime
08-09-2011, 07:34 PM
why are you using socket head cap screws and not counter-sinking your holes and using flat socket head caps?

http://douglasind.com/images/FLHDCPSC.jpg



Each light has a harness with 3 wires. I assume one is power, one it ground, and one is for a relay circuit.

http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaUSA/WebSite/MiscContent/Download/Drivers/Lighting/BasicWiringDiagram1.pdf

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-09-2011, 08:12 PM
Because the aluminum is to thin of a material to really allow me to make that clean. I opted for the caps that match the hardware for adjusting the lights standard on Hella (2 knobs on the rear of the housing).

In the future (sometime in January) ill have access to an Aluminum welder. Then I'll make the same frame again without hardware, and weld it.

temperacerguy
08-09-2011, 10:51 PM
Just a warning, those black socket head cap screws you are using will rust red within a week, and will rust through within months. I would recomend switching to a stainless steel allen head button screw like below:

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/422254606/stainless_steel_hex_socket_button_head_cap.jpg

They will look cleaner as well.

They are available at all big box stores, and even in metric sizes at most Ace hardwares

temperacerguy
08-09-2011, 10:58 PM
Also, just a warning. It appears you are using alluminum for that mount. With the frontal area of those lights, and the weight, it will twist and fatigue your mount pretty quick. The first weak point to break will be the mounting point between the cross bar, and the front back supports. Using steel angle iron and flat bar stock would be a better solution. Yes it would be heavier, and would be harder to fabricate, but it will last more than a few months.

temperacerguy
08-10-2011, 06:15 AM
OK, well I figured a way that you can keep the aluminum and strengthen the bracket...

Take the same aluminum 90 degree extrusion that you used for the front bracket, and cut iit on the red lines that I marked. Then bend the front over 90 degrees. Bolt from both the front and top. This way the side supports will support the torsional load placed on the cross bar.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/support.jpg

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-13-2011, 02:49 AM
Again, the final bracket will be welded with bracing similar to your idea above.

I've been hashing out the wiring for these lights. Using a Bosch relay and a switch, I am going to wire them to the headlight relay. That way I can choose to have them on, or off in conjunction with my high-beams. So when I'm rolling down a rural highway late at night, I flip my high-beams on, and the Hellas light up as well.

Any thoughts?

(Also, anyone have a Canadian wiring diagram?)

temperacerguy
08-13-2011, 06:23 AM
Just thinking it's not going to make it to January (when you said you are making the final bracket). With how thin that alluminum is, I doubt it will last a highway journey of any real distance...

Wiring is easy. with a standard SPST relay

86 to high beam (no need to pull it from the fuse box, just pull it from the high beam wire at the headlight.)
85 to ground
30 to a fused 12V source
87 to the Hella light.

Facime
08-13-2011, 07:37 AM
I understand what you are saying Austin but I just dont see what you see is so flawed in it. With the supports running to the license plate and the mount bar itself being angle bar, I really dont see how there is going to be enough stress to fatigue the aluminum that fast. I know in a perfect world there are probably better ways to do it, but I would wager it will last alot longer than you are predicting. I mean its going to see highway use, not a WRC competition.

temperacerguy
08-13-2011, 08:42 AM
It's not the compression load on the top bracket. It's the rotational load placed on the front cross bar.

As the wind pushes on the large frontal area of the lights, it will twist the cross-bar back, putting stress on two places (shown with the arrows)
1: Where the trailing edge of the crossbar meets the top supports
2: Where the holes drilled for the bolts has already weakened both sections.

When the car slows and stops, the lights will rock forward.

As the extruded aluminum he's using has a high modus of elasticity, the lights will rock back and forth with each wind cycle. This constant cycling will fatigue those stress points, causing eventual failure.

Here's my cheap quick, paint example.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/foglightforces.jpg

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-13-2011, 10:01 AM
I am using a rubber wedge to help shorten the distance on the upper arms to help stiffen them. I highly doubt this mount will fail on me within the next 3 months. It's not a full time install either, it just needs to do it's job. Also, the thickness on the aluminum is 1/8 inch, not 1/16th inch.

With welding, I'd likely take square tube aluminum and cut one side off so I am left with a U shaped section. Then I profile two of the sides to contour around the bumper to achieve something like this:

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/hella_mount_welded.jpg

Lightweight and solid aluminum. Also, by utilizing U sections, I could route all my wiring internally.

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-15-2011, 05:25 AM
Working on wiring, updates coming.

Having a fun time solving which color wire is the high-beam from the headlight control arm. I plan on splicing that wire to run to a toggle switch. That toggle will then run to a relay that will control the Hellas. When driving on a rural highway at night, I can click the high-beam control once to turn on all 4 lights and off again with one click for when someone is coming the other way.

The toggle is really to kill the circuit for when the lights are not installed, or when I want to flash the brights during day time, with my Hella covers on.

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-15-2011, 08:02 AM
http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/hella_diagram-01.png

This is how I am wiring this up.

temperacerguy
08-16-2011, 07:10 AM
so do you want the fogs to work when the high beams are on, AND the toggle is switched, or do you want it to work when the high beams are on OR the toggle is switched?

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-16-2011, 07:29 AM
I want it to work with Toggle ON and High-Beam Switch ON. Its for when they aren't mounted or the covers are on, I can flip the Toggle OFF and disable them. By wiring them to the High-Beam, its one flick to turn them on or off as a safety for other motorists on rural highways.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2

temperacerguy
08-16-2011, 07:49 AM
If you wire it this way, you only have one wire running into the cabin. The rest of the wiring stays behind the driver's side headlight close to the battery.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/fogswitchwiring.jpg

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-16-2011, 07:58 AM
There's a much easier way to do this with a single relay if you want me to show you.

That's what I'm trying to solve. Please!

CollapsedNut
08-16-2011, 12:27 PM
If you wire it this way, you only have one wire running into the cabin. The rest of the wiring stays behind the driver's side headlight close to the battery.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/fogswitchwiring.jpg

But with this you cant have the fogs on without the highs on. May get annoying? Why not just make the fogs standalone so you can use them anytime you want? All you would do is instead of tapping into the high beam wire, is attach it to a constant power source or battery.

Facime
08-16-2011, 08:19 PM
he wants to avoid having to flip off two switches to turn them off if he suddenly has oncomming traffic.

Car_Barn_Bandit
08-17-2011, 04:04 AM
Bingo.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2

temperacerguy
08-17-2011, 10:47 PM
right, which is why the toggle will be left in the "ON" position when he wants to activate the Hella lights... they will only be on with the high beams and the toggle left in "On"

With the way I suggested, the If-than flow chart would look like this:

If Highbeams on, switch to off =Hellas off
If Highbeams on, switch to on = Hellas On
If highbeams off, switch to off, = hellas off
If highbeams off, switch to on = hellas Off

CollapsedNut
08-18-2011, 02:34 AM
right, which is why the toggle will be left in the "ON" position when he wants to activate the Hella lights... they will only be on with the high beams and the toggle left in "On"

With the way I suggested, the If-than flow chart would look like this:

If Highbeams on, switch to off =Hellas off
If Highbeams on, switch to on = Hellas On
If highbeams off, switch to off, = hellas off
If highbeams off, switch to on = hellas Off

Can I get a graphic with that chart?

Facime
08-18-2011, 04:51 AM
:kekekegay:

temperacerguy
08-18-2011, 07:11 AM
Can I get a graphic with that chart?

Here ya go:

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT8iP4jqyulqDKm0gSMG538c12V9dGDB u5pWkUJ1mWW-UjN9qJw

Hookecho
08-18-2011, 02:09 PM
LOL

Facime
08-18-2011, 06:22 PM
WIN!

Car_Barn_Bandit
01-15-2012, 01:26 AM
I've been caught up in every wonderful thing under the sun. Scraping the bottom of the barrel to survive.

Here are the lights and their beam pattern...

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/hella_night3.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/hella_night4.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/hella_night1.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/9/4/1/6/hella_night2.jpg

Eric Barrera
01-15-2012, 02:06 AM
Looking good man

Car_Barn_Bandit
01-15-2012, 02:21 AM
Also, the mount is rock solid! It's still in shape, and doing great!

Car_Barn_Bandit
03-04-2012, 08:55 PM
Some thoughts on the legality of using my lights:

V C Section 24402
Notwithstanding any other provision of law, a vehicle may be equipped with not more than eight lamps for use as headlamps while the vehicle is operated or driven off the highway. The lamps shall be mounted at a height of not less than 16 inches from the ground, or more than 12 inches above the top of the passenger compartment, at any place between the front of the vehicle and a line lying on a point 40 inches to the rear of the seat occupied by the driver, shall be wired independently of all other lighting circuits, and, whenever the vehicle is operated or driven upon a highway, shall be covered or hooded with an opaque hood or cover, and turned off.

Check. I can safely explain that these are my off-road lights if I am ever ticketed while they are covered.

V C Section 24402
(a) Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less than 16 inches nor more than 42 inches. Driving lamps are lamps designed for supplementing the upper beam from headlamps and may not be lighted with the lower beam.

(b) Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary passing lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less than 24 inches nor more than 42 inches. Passing lamps are lamps designed for supplementing the lower beam from headlamps and may also be lighted with the upper beam.

Check. Fails to mention the output or distance on auxiliary lights. If I ever use these on a rural road (as is their intention) and get stopped, I can explain their function as auxiliary lights.

V C Section 24404
(a) A motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two white spotlamps, which shall not be used in substitution of headlamps.

(b) No spotlamp shall be equipped with any lamp source exceeding 32 standard candlepower or 30 watts nor project any glaring light into the eyes of an approaching driver.

(c) Every spotlamp shall be so directed when in use:

That no portion of the main substantially parallel beam of light will strike the roadway to the left of the prolongation of the left side line of the vehicle.

That the top of the beam will not strike the roadway at a distance in excess of 300 feet from the vehicle.

(d) This section does not apply to spotlamps on authorized emergency vehicles.

(e) No spotlamp when in use shall be directed so as to illuminate any other moving vehicle.

Check. An officer may claim that they are high-powered spotlights, to which I can counter that they are mounted as headlamps, and are used in conjunction as auxiliary lights.