View Full Version : Project: 90GTS Stroker

07-30-2011, 05:07 AM
So after 6 long years I have finally decided to post my project but first a little history (skip to the next post if you just want to see pics)

I remember seeing a black fifth gen Celica for the first time when I was 14 and said to myself that was the car I wanted. Due to a lack of money it was not until I was 22 that I actually bought one. At the time I was very broke and for some reason cars are generally more expensive up here in Canada so I did what any sane individual would do… I jumped on ebay and started to shop! Finding a rust free 90 GTS in Miami Florida I convinced my dad to accompany me to pick it up and drive it across the continent back to my home. After some persuading we bought our one way plane tickets and flew on down to Florida. Picking the car up was both exciting and disappointing at the same time. This being my first car I did not know what was normal for an almost 20 year hunk of metal. But I was also excited because it was mine. The car it appeared needed a lot of work but refusing to be defeated we proceeded to drive the car a little over 4000miles to our home (we took a lot of detours)!
Well as soon as the car was home I was already making plans on how to make it a “race car”. I will admit I was a little naive and did not understand what I really wanted. Jump forward two years and little had changed on my pride and joy except for a few interior modifications and a ton of maintenance. At this point I was waging a constant overheating battle with the car and loosing miserably. Then the timing belt blew up (literally) and the car was officially parked until I could build it up properly. I finally found some time a year later and began by pulling a 5sfe from a parts car I had and sent it to a performance engine builder in my town. I did not know much about building up an engine but figured it would be relatively easy and the parts would be plentiful. O how I was wrong. I gave the builder $1000 to get started and in the mean time began a full recondition of the interior. I’ll go into details about the interior later but lets just say it was a lot of work and turned out stunning. A year later I basically had my car with an awesome interior sitting with a trashed motor. The engine builder still had not started despite my constant nagging. I guess in the end that was a good thing because that summer I went to work in Vancouver and found a swapped grey GTS for sale. I bought it and decided I would just fix it up (it really needed a lot of body work) instead. With school getting in the way the grey car did not get worked on much except for a new heat exchanger for the W2A intercooler. This all brings me to about 6 months ago when I finally decided to get serious on this project. I found a parts car with much of the work I wanted to do and bought it and then had it shipped up to Canada from Texas. At this point I made a major decision and that was I would revive my original 90 GTS, swap in the engine from my newly acquired parts car and finally have what I have wanted for the last 6 years. And so began my ULTIMATE BUILD!

07-30-2011, 05:08 AM
So previously I started the body work on the car and stripped the interior. Next I pulled my tired 5sfe and since it was my first time pulling an engine I tried to mark EVERYTHING with green tape and a sharpie just in case I needed a reference for the new engine going in.

Getting ready to pull the engine

Dropping the old engine out the bottom of the car

Old 5sfe sitting on the garage floor

Getting ready to tow the car to the car wash to clean up the engine bay and underside

Towing the car

At the car wash

Painting the engine bay black

In preparation for the eventual twin exaust I cut out the rear spare wheel well and filled it in

After stripping the whole interior I applied a layer of sound deadening rubber mats (similar to dynamat but a little cheaper). I then applied a coat of rubberized undercoat to seal it. Next I applied 3 thick coat of a sound absorbing spray on material called Quiet Car. According to the manufacturer the material converts sound energy to heat energy, I have no clue if it works but I thought I would give it a shot. Now to all the people shaking their heads right now because I added all this weight I don't really care because I think it was totally worth it. Im not one of those lets lighten our cars by removing the 5lb carpet kind of guy. I figured if I wanted it faster there was better ways then sacrificing comfort. So here is some pics of the finished sound deadening stage.

The back areas on the floor are foam mats applied after all the spray on stuff.

07-30-2011, 05:08 AM
Engine Section

The parts car I purchased from a Texas member had a fully built 3sgte stroker in it. He had done a ton of work and put a lot of money into his car but unfortunately only a few months after he finished it some lady pulled infront of him and his car was totalled. Since there was only body damage I basically picked up a low miles fully built car.

Pics of the parts car before it was totaled

After the accident

Dyno plot for the car when it was tuned just before the accident. Put down about 350whp which I hope to build upon. My final goal for the project is about 410whp which brings me to a question. Should I put new rods in for the hp goals I have or are the shot-pined stock ones up to the task?

Youtube video of one of the dyno runs before it was destroyed

Engine Mods
-JDM low miles 2gen 3sgte swap
-272 cams (intake and exhaust)
-Cryo'd stoker crank (now 2.2L)
-Shot-pined stock Rods
-JE Forged Pistons
-HKS Adjustable cam gears
-3 angle valve job
-Engle Valve Springs
-Ferrea Valves
-Eliminated TVIS
-Gasket & Port matched the Engine
-Metal Head Gaskets
-Port Polished, Balanced and Sleeved
-Silver Jet Hot Coated Valve cover
-ATS Knock Sensor Kit for GM Knock Sensor

Parts I purchased
-Cusco oil catch can
-Zaklee clear cam gear cover
-PWR aluminium radiator
-AEM Meth injection
-Oil filter relocation kit

After pulling the engine I decided to freshen it up a little in the looks department. I decided to do a little accent painting with some different high temp paints on the exhaust manifold, ATS adapter and turbo. I was going to paint the whole block and head but decided it was to much work for now.

Installed my new Zaklee clear cam cover

Currently im waiting on some various transmission parts (shift fork, slave cylinder..), once they arrive I can bolt the E153 on and drop the engine in.

Another thing that im pumped about is the donor car had working AC, which my last swap did not so im really looking forward to that.

07-30-2011, 05:09 AM
Turbo and related components

The turbo set up I will be running is the same one that came with the donor car.

-Greddy TD06S Turbo Jet Hot Coated Black. Will probably run around 15psi for daily driving and around 20-22psi when I want to have fun
-3" custom down pipe
-2.5” intercooler piping (just picked this stuff up and have yet to figure out how im going to run it)
-strait intake with HKS intake filter
-External Tidal waste gate recirculated back to exhaust
-65mm mustang TB
-Tubular equal length exhaust manifold
-FMIC. Just picked up a treadstone tr11

-Custom Hux weld on phlem intake manifold with extrude honed runners. Here is a pic of it on the car of the guy I purchased it from ( I haven't taken any good pics of it myself yet)

-Sealed custom cold air box vented to the fender and front bumper. Im still working on this and just have the top to fabricate, I was thinking about getting some 4mm carbon fiber panel and use that for the top. The whole thing was molded in place so that it fits perfectly.

I still need to figure out how to get my mustang TB TPS to work with my engine harness.

Fuel Section

The donor car had a pretty good fuel set up including: ATS bored duel feed fuel rail with AN fittings and steel braided lines, Aeromotive FPR, Walbro fuel pump, and 550cc supra injectors. I figured since I wanted to push the car up to 400whp I needed a higher flowing fuel system so I pick up the following parts:

-Siemens 880cc Injectors
-Chris K top feed fuel rail, painted it ford blue
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with liquid filled gauge
-all steel fuel lines with AN fittings to go with the new set up

-I will be posting the old fuel set up for sale probably in the next few weeks ( it was good to 350whp). It only had about 2000miles on it.

07-30-2011, 05:15 AM

I did a ton of work to make the interior of this car perfect. I will be posting many many pics of the interior later but for now here are the few I have and a list of everything that has been done.

-Zero’d out odometer
-custom two tone black and grey leather upholstery with red TRD embroidered in the center.

-Complete interior removed and metal interior surface sound deadened with a layer of dynamat then coated with rubberized undercoating followed by 3 coats of Quiet Car spray on sound absorber. Also packed body cavities with foam.
- All interior panels removed, striped, primed and painted with black SEM vinyl/plastic interior paint (the whole interior is now black).

-Various trim pieces painted with silver SEM vinyl/plastic interior paint.

-Rear windows and hatch tinted (still to come)
-Installed system 10 door panels
-TWM short shifter
-NRG carbon fibre weighted shift knob
-Redline Goods black leather short shifter boot with silver stitching
-ST185 shifter cables
-Custom boost controller and gauge controller mounting bracket where ash tray use to be.

-Still have cup holder (a must have!)
-Custom turbo timer mounting bracket and switch panel. This will be constructed out of carbon fiber and mounted between the cd deck and the cup holder (blocking off that little boxy space). There will be 7 switches: Meth injection, A/F data log arm, Interior LED light control, nitrous purge, nitrous bottle open, nitrous warmer, and nitrous arm. The switches will be beside and below the TT.
-Custom A/F gauge mounting bracket near steering column.

-Pillar gauge pod (for 3 gauges)

-White glow faces for dash cluster
-NRG limited edition Pilota real carbon fibre trim steering wheel with working horn and nitrous momentary switch. This took me so many hours to get right. I have the horn rigged to work just like stock, no silly phone cord around the steering column garbage. I will post a how to write up on what I did to get my horn working with an aftermarket steering wheel.

-NRG gen 2.5 quick release (black and dark silver)

-Aluminium and carbon fibre peddles
-Stock blue carpet (in almost new condition)
-LED lights installed under dash, under seats and in hatch (all hidden), lights are set to only come on when the door or hatch is opened. Can be switched to come on at any time or be turned off so they never come on. Can choose any of 1000s of colors (currently set to blue).
-Led controller mounted in center console
-12 volt constant and switched power distributor block wired up inside center consol (all hidden underneath stock insert with raised floor)
-looking for stock celiac floor mats

07-30-2011, 06:06 AM
Your links. They don't work.

07-30-2011, 06:09 AM
Ya I just fixed them. Try now

07-30-2011, 08:26 AM
Put [img] tags around them. That way the pictures show up.

EDIT: This looks amazing by the way. I never thought of a clear cam cover.

08-04-2011, 02:40 AM
Front Big Brake Upgrade Kit

I figured I would post up some pics of my front big brake upgrade. It is not finished yet because my 16" rims were to small so I just test fit the set up to see what it looked like. Once my rims arrive I will be able to give more detail on how it feels. I had no problems with the bracket, fit perfect and everything bolted up easily. I also checked the ball joint to rotor clearance and it is pretty close but I have not yet actually taken a good measurement because my engine is not in the car right now so the suspension is not fully loaded.

Bought the custom caliper brackets from gtfourtc.
For sale thread http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=40462&start=0
The project thread http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=39533

Here are some pics of the parts and mounting

DRT WRX STi Rotors

Rotors compared to stock

Porsch Brembo Caliper

Pic of mounting the new steel lines. The Porsche caliper had a hardline mounted here so at first I did not think the celica lines would mate up but they did just fine.

Had to switch this line over to the other side so the caliper could be bled properly

New Red Stuff Pads

Caliper put together and ready to be mounted

Caliper and Rotor mounted

I had some pics of the rotor thickness compared to stock but I can find it right now, lets just say there is a huge difference.

Here is the cost break down
2 Porsche Calipers $300 shipped (ebay)
2 DRT STi Slotted Rotors $ 200 (got these on ebay, I did a bunch of reading on other forums and apparently this company makes a pretty good product)
4 Steel brake lines $100 (cant remember where I got these)
Set of front Red Stuff Ceramic break pads $100

Total for front BBK = $700 (not bad for a Brembo 4 pot caliper BBK with massive rotors)

08-04-2011, 06:37 AM
$700 BBK that bolts right up? Hmm looks like I'll have to add that to my list.

It looks like you're really going to town on this build (unfortunately I don't have the time to read it all right now)

08-04-2011, 02:06 PM
It looks like you're really going to town on this build

Ya it has kind of gotten out of control (thats what my wife says:laugh:). What I have posted so far is not even half of what im doing. Hopefully it should all be done by this October.

08-05-2011, 12:09 AM
Cryo'd stoker crank (now 2.2L)

does that mean you are using a 5s crank in a 3s block?


08-05-2011, 12:55 AM
does that mean you are using a 5s crank in a 3s block?

Yes its a 5s crank in the 3s block. Im pretty sure that is how most people do their 3sgte strokers (could be wrong though). I was under the impression the only other option would be to get a custom forged crank from someone like JUN which would cost thousands of dollars just for the crank.

08-05-2011, 03:47 AM
Yes its a 5s crank in the 3s block. Im pretty sure that is how most people do their 3sgte strokers (could be wrong though). I was under the impression the only other option would be to get a custom forged crank from someone like JUN which would cost thousands of dollars just for the crank.

I figured.

One word of advice or something to take into consideration.The 3s is prone to crack when it starts getting into the 400whp range.They crack in cylinder 3 or around the water pump area. I went through 2 3s blocks.I dont think I count though cause both were in the high 500whp range.

The solution that has been found is using the 98-2001 5s block mated to the 3s and it makes a 5SGTE.Pretty easy conversion.Good luck with your build!


08-05-2011, 03:57 AM
Thanks for the info JDM SNUKUMZ. I did not know that the 3s blocks tend to crack. I actually have two 1990 5s blocks sitting at home would either of those help? I guess ill hang on to one and use it if I have any issues. Any other info you have while approaching the 400whp range would be helpful as this is the first time I have ever built a car.

08-05-2011, 04:24 AM
I have tons of info that I can share with you if you need that I found about whle messign with my mr2 and getting into the 800whp range.

As far as the 1990 5s blocks they can be used but the reason why I said the 98 is because that is the one that is known for having the better casting per say such as thicker cylinder walls and more meat by the water pump.

Southern Alberta sounds like cananda,I dont know how the junkyards are over there but here you can find a 98 5sfe swap at the junkyeard meaning just head and block for about 150 bucks.