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Eric Barrera
07-18-2011, 06:52 AM
IS it really so difficult? I am thinking about buying one, but I don't want to pay an outrageous sum of cash. Plus, it would be a great learning experience. I'm pretty good with wires so, is it something that is easy?

jaydog82
07-18-2011, 06:59 AM
its not that hard, i installed one on my 90 gt.

Eric Barrera
07-18-2011, 07:00 AM
Well I might just get a kill switch, but still thinking

jaydog82
07-18-2011, 07:02 AM
that will stop them from taking the car, but it wont help prevent them from taking anything else. Also remote power un-lock is so nice

Eric Barrera
07-18-2011, 07:06 AM
Hmmmmm

temperacerguy
07-18-2011, 07:25 AM
It's not hard... but it's overwhelming. There are SO MANY wires to do, that if you are not comfortable with what you're doing, or don't fully understand the way things work, that you'll get frustrated. Also because alarms are made universal, there are often times two different wires in the headbox that do the same thing, but in different ways... so you will have all these unused wires that you'll feel you left something out.

become familiar with www.the12volt.com.

I am doing a DEI alarm for a friend next weekend with all the bells and whistles... 2 way transponder, dual zone radar, glass breakage, digital tilt sensors, hood/trunk pins, trunk pop solonoid, window automation, backup batteries and so on. I've done a ton of alarms, and this will take me about 2 days for the install with all the little bracket fabrication and wiring. If it was a simple door sensor ignition cut off, keyless entry, it would only take a few hours. If this is your first install, plan for a full day for troubleshooting :-)

Depending on the complexity of your install, you will need the following items:

-T-taps and male insulated terminals (this is key... use these if you've never done an alarm install before... they are easy to use, and if you clip into the wrong wire, it's not the end of the world)
-12V test light. (you can also use a volt meter, but they are more complex to use here... mainly you just want to know if a circuit has power or not)
-GOOD QUALITY stripper/crimper. You do not want the squeeze type crimper, you want the bullet type. These crimps are far more secure. Kline tools makes a blue handled crimper that can be picked up at nearly any big box store.
-paper and pencil... Before you do anything, sit down with the installation guide, and the harness diagrams you get from www.the12volt.com. write down what wire from the alarm goes to what wire of the car harness. Go in with a plan!
-Wire ties (you will want to clean everything up when you're done.
-Electrical tape I don't plan on using this, but it's always nice to have.
-Double sided tape (for mounting)
-alchohol (for cleaning)
-Self tapping/drilling screws (for mounting the horn and maybe head unit)
-drill with screw bits

Now, here are a few suggestions:

-Mount the horn facing down... not forwards, not up. you want the least chance for water to get into the horn as possible,
-Since this is your first install, leave all the wires from the alarm harness at full length with the terminals crimped on the end, then once everything is working, mount the box, and shorten the wires and put a new terminal on (as you are using T-taps, this will be simple. One by one, unplug the terminal, cut it to length, plug it right back in.

yeah, that's about it... oh, and buy far more terminals and T-taps than you ever plan on using... they are cheap when you buy in bulk.

temperacerguy
07-18-2011, 07:27 AM
don't bother with a kill switch... the splices for the kill switch will just tell the theives which wires they need to hotwire the car. You can get a good cheap alarm with starter kill and door lock/unlock for under $100. The full bells and whistles alarm I am installing for my buddy. we're under $400 for everything.

acidice333
07-18-2011, 07:47 AM
a kill switch would work if u put it some place unthinkable and wire it up to something like the fuel pump, or ecu, etc...

even if u bought a simple alarm, wire it to the ecu, the theives wouldnt think of looking at the ecu.. they could hot wire it, but the ecu would be disabled so the engine woul\dnt run.

temperacerguy
07-18-2011, 08:20 AM
OK, let me put this as tactfully as I can....

No thief in his right mind is going to be looking to steal an early 90s celica...

If I (or a thief) am going to risk a grand theft auto rap, I'm going to go after a car that has hot parts on the 2ndary market. I'm going after a mid/late 90s Civic, Integra, Accord, Camry, Full size truck, yadda yadda yadda... Or I would go after something new I can swap the VIN for a crashed version of the same car or ship overseas. I would have to go WAY WAY WAY WAY down the shopping list to go after a 20 yr old Celica. The only reason I would break into such a car is if I was going after the radio, or some other valuable inside the car.

DudeMan
07-19-2011, 06:59 PM
I installed an alarm/remote starter in my truck last winter, wasn't that hard.

Consider soldering your connections. A soldering iron isn't that expensive and you can be sure nothing will come loose.

Best piece of advice I can give is don't allow your wiring/components to be exposed to the elements. This is the only mistake I made..

I mounted the siren directly under the hood and within a few months water had fried it. I also mounted some relays in the back in order to roll the rear window up and down with the remote but because the body panels are rotting out I have dirt and moisture fouling my connectors back there..

Just don't half ass it and make sure everything is dried and sealed for the long run and you should be fine.

temperacerguy
07-19-2011, 10:36 PM
I would recommend against a soldering iron. There are many reasons for this, first of all, as this is his first install, chances are that he will have incorrect splices, and if soldered, he will have to cut and re-connect each time. With a T-tap, he just has to unplug and re-plug. Each Soldered joint will need to have shrink wrap over it. Also, soldering loose wires is not recommended for a vibration prone environment. where the solder ends, it creates a stress riser which over time will fatigue and crack the wire. FAA does not allow soldered joints in wiring harnesses for this reason.

Atticus
07-22-2011, 07:12 AM
Temper, Which affordable alarm would you recommend? Not to focus on what I want the alarm to include, just overall.

Galcobar
07-22-2011, 08:41 AM
OK, let me put this as tactfully as I can....

No thief in his right mind is going to be looking to steal an early 90s celica...

Three problems with that statement, if I may. The first is that an easy target is more likely to be broken into and stolen; the lower the chances of being discovered and caught, the less the possibility of going to jail matters. Put it this way, if he has to choose between two cars and one he can drive away, and the other he can't, the profit margin for success versus failure dictates he make the economic decision to steal the car that will get him some profit, as opposed to none.

Secondly, auto theft is not just for the purposes of stealing the vehicle. It is often done to provide a means of transportation, in order to facilitate another crime. In such cases, the value of the car does not matter, only its availability and suitability to the task at hand.

The third: who says the car thief is in his right mind? Stupidity and drugs, either make for impulse decisions which have nothing to do with profits, aka joyriding. I refer you to these videos:
http://www.baitcar.com/%E2%80%98it%E2%80%99s_f_ing_bait_car_you_idiot%E2% 80%99_0

http://www.youtube.com/v/9KiWN8RTZUg?fs=1&hl=en_US

The second video is just scary -- this is how drugs fuel auto theft.

temperacerguy
07-22-2011, 10:56 PM
No matter the reason for the theft. a 5th Gen celica compared to the majority of vehicles on the road is a VERY low risk. It's not suitable for any of the situations you listed. The only reason someone would steel a 5th Gen celica over nearly any other car is if they own a 5th Gen and they need parts for their personal car and they know how to dispose of the carcass when done.

As for low buck alarm, anything by DEI (Directed Electronics) is going to get the job done. DEI is the parent company of viper, python, clifford, etc...

Here's one with Remote Start for under $100, but I highly recomend you do NOT hook up the remote start if you have a manual transmission car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PYTHON-513-CAR-AUTO-ALARM-REMOTE-START-STARTER-SYSTEM-/390204879307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ada05f1cb#ht_3984wt_1163

I am sure you can find a just as good, but cheaper unit for 60-$70 with some effort

jvtran
07-22-2011, 11:48 PM
I got one for sale. The only thing stopping me from installing it is the cost at bestbuy/cartoys for them to do it.

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?52577-Viper-5601-Refurbished&daysprune=-1

Galcobar
07-23-2011, 12:47 AM
If a vehicle is not suited for selling (have you seen scrap metal prices these days? People are stealing bike racks in order to sell), use as transportation to a grow rip, or good enough for a moron/tweaker (in this case referring to meth) to steal -- what the heck good is it to the owner?

temperacerguy
07-23-2011, 01:24 AM
I got one for sale. The only thing stopping me from installing it is the cost at bestbuy/cartoys for them to do it.

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?52577-Viper-5601-Refurbished&daysprune=-1

That's a screaming deal... and can be installed by a first timer in a day. I highly recommend.

temperacerguy
07-23-2011, 01:39 AM
If a vehicle is not suited for selling (have you seen scrap metal prices these days? People are stealing bike racks in order to sell), use as transportation to a grow rip, or good enough for a moron/tweaker (in this case referring to meth) to steal -- what the heck good is it to the owner?

Again I said "No matter the reason for the theft. a 5th Gen celica compared to the majority of vehicles on the road is a VERY low risk." I would rather steal a 80s pickup/blazer if I was going to sell it for scrap. The risk/reward for stealing a 5th Gen celica is just not there. Look, I know everyone here thinks that their car is the best thing since sliced bread (as with every other car forum in the world) but it's not. If I were to steal a car for a joyride, the punishment is the same for a celica or a Porsche, but a Porsche is much more fun... If I were to steal a car for a Heist to blend in, I would steal a mid 90s accord. They blend in as there are a million of them, and they have more room for guns/loot. If I were stealing a car to sell the parts on the 2ndary market, I would steel a Honda (or any type). If I were stealing a car for scrap, I would steel a truck or anything from the 70s-early 80s.

temperacerguy
07-24-2011, 12:02 AM
If anyone is interested, I will post a thread of the install of the alarm on the Evo. All alarms are pretty much the same with some very minor differences (especially japanese cars). I'm starting it tomorrow with the installation of the aditional sensors and solonoid and the like... Next weekend will be wiring it all up.

Eric Barrera
07-24-2011, 04:03 AM
^ plz

temperacerguy
07-24-2011, 05:11 AM
Sorry Guys, it's going to have to wait a week. Have to head to Miami in the morning. The install will be next week, but here's the prep work I've done to make this job easier:
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/CIMG0203.jpg

Every wire in every harness has been labeled as to where it goes in the car or to each other... That way I won't have to go back and forth to the wiring diagram when I am under the dash.

This is quite a bit more complex than what most would install, and thus many more wires.
Transponder system:
Dual zone shock sensor
dual zone proximety sensor
Glass breakage microphone
digital tilt switch (if they try to tow or steel the wheels this triggers the alarm)
battery backup siren (siren will wail even if the siren wires are cut)
Window automation system for both front and back windows (automatically rolls up windows when system is armed, also you can roll up/down/crack either or both sets of windows through the remote
Trunk pop solonoid (remotely mounted in the rear fender)
Blue 1Hz flashing LEDs mounted in trailing edge of door cards when system is armed
Hood/trunk pin switches
in addition to all the normal alarm features.