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temperacerguy
07-13-2011, 08:24 PM
Has anyone used Duplicolor paintshop products before?

In part of my whole celica rebuild, I am considering using their products... The ease of color mixing and future matching makes it very apealing to me.

I have purchased some samples of the paint, and currently painting some soda cans to get a good color mix.

I am considering lightening the "mineral grey" color a shade or so, then covering over with a pearl mid to give some depth to the car and highlight the contours... then bury it all in many coats of clear.

I am choosing this color as I am a carbon fiber junky, and I want something that will match a carbon fiber hood with a thin black candy over it.

Any experience with this product line? anything to look out for?

Hookecho
07-13-2011, 11:16 PM
I used Duplicolor Cherry Red on my car. I used Rattle cans though and laid in on thick. I recently repainted the front fenders because I wanted to touch up some bondo work that I had done incorrectly.

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/100_0836.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/100_0589.jpg

http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/files/4/1/4/3/dsc_0178.jpg

temperacerguy
07-13-2011, 11:20 PM
ahh, didn't even realize they had rattle cans of the duplicolor paintshop line... I will be using a spray gun as I will be doing the entire car with full color change.

Hookecho
07-13-2011, 11:41 PM
It wasn't a custom paintshop paint.

temperacerguy
07-13-2011, 11:53 PM
ahh, ok, I think there's some confusion...

Duplicolor has alot of product lines, I think you chose their "perfect match" line with the rattle cans...

the "paintshop" product line is a line of pre-mixed laquers (no need to reduce) to be sprayed with a spray gun. That's specifically what I am curious about.

Hookecho
07-14-2011, 12:14 AM
Yeah, I used a premix from Duplicolor the first time I painted the Celica. I ordered it from the parts store. I have a thread about it. Idk if I got a bad mixture but it turned out to be a matt finish of cherry red. I wound up sanding the paint and using the rattle cans instead. Turned out ok for me. I'm not sure if it was the paintshop brand I ordered the first time. I've long since tossed the container.

Hookecho
07-14-2011, 12:21 AM
Here's the thread with the pictures. This is before I put the alltrac hood and RC bumper on. The paint laid down nicely but the finish was awful.

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?51893-Painted-the-Celica.-Pics-included&highlight=

temperacerguy
07-14-2011, 12:45 AM
cool, thanks. that's not the paintshop line, because the paintshop line you are ready for clear only an hour after laying on the basecoat... even if you want to color sand, you can do that 24hrs after laying don the final coat of base.

If what you purchased was supposed to be a basecoat/clearcoat system, I am not suprised the finish was awful and didn't last if you left it as a basecoat only... basecoats only provide the color, they don't have the hardness to polish or even last on their own.

Hookecho
07-14-2011, 01:07 AM
Yeah, I'm new to auto paint. I'm sure I did it wrong the first time.

DudeMan
07-14-2011, 11:29 AM
I used a rattle can base coat/clear coat system on my car and the finish still came out like shit..

Hopefully some colour sanding and a buffer will clean it up.

Haven't heard anything on this Duplicolor Paintshop stuff.. I still need to grab a HVLP gun and quit messing with rattle cans.

temperacerguy
07-14-2011, 04:52 PM
you are NOT going to get anything worth having using a rattle can. Sure it's fine for things under the hood, or suspension components, but I have only used one rattle can that would work for exterior paint (and it was $27 per can for the base coat and $22 per can for the clear coat)

I have a auto paint supply shop here that will put finish quality paint into a rattle can for around $18 per can, but the way it lays is not flat. As such when I am custom mixing paints, I give them the formula, and have them put it in the rattle can for me to spray out a test piece (I typically use soda cans to test pieces). That way I don't have to clean out my gun for something less than a square foot.

In fact, I did this last night with the color I was looking at, for my ST185.... turns out the metallic flake is WAY too thick.

Here's the test "can". In the shade, it's approximately the color I am looking for. and I like the highlights on the contours:

(Don't Rag on the paint quality... I didn't even prep the surface or sand/buff, this is straight out of the rattle can)
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/mineralgrey.jpg

Now, here's the same can in the sunlight.... It's way too "Disco inferno" for a street car... maybe for a racing stripe, 2-tone with color, or a lowrider, but for a full typical street-goer... not a chance.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/mineralgreysun.jpg

I will see if I can dull it out with some non-metalic light grey. This will lighten the color a bit, but that's ok, because I plan on laying a thin candy black over it as a mid coat. This will darken the contours of the car severely, while only darken the straight on view of the paint a little... It's going to be a neat way to highlight the curves of the fenders and bumpers. Also it will let me blend in the carbon fiber hood as I will lay a thick black candy on it to hide the weave pattern in shallow angle viewing... straight on, the pattern will be visable.

but alas... I still have to get the car out to FL, strip it down and prep first.

Facime
07-14-2011, 06:26 PM
I used to love spraying laquer. It was easy to work with and even correct if you made a mistake. There used to be a line of high quality automotive laquer in a spray can that included candies and metallics. It was FAR different than the enamel you find in all your spray cans now. I forget the brand but I was sad when it disappeared from the shelves.


Here is a bike I painted with laquer. Sorry about the quality of the photo, they were taken back in the 80's with an "instamatic" camera, but I think you get the idea. This was a black basecoat with a mix of blue and red candy coats, then a clear. If I knew then what I know now it would have been even better.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/23574_100617876644272_100000881806029_14624_723427 4_n.jpg


The problem with laquer in the past was it wasnt very hard. This made ir great color sanding and buffing, but it chipped easily. I need to do some painting on my bike, I may have to play around with this stuff a little.

temperacerguy
07-14-2011, 06:53 PM
yeah I agree with you. but one of the nice things about laquer is that you can spray enamel or urethane over it without problems. So I am going to use a deep urethane clear after I colorsand the laquer. There are so many different clears out there, I am not sure which to go with. HOK has probably the best clear out there for non-yellowing, but it sprays on so thin that I will be putting coat upon coat to get the depth that I want. Duponts Chromaclear is nice, and as it's a high end production based paint system, it will go on thick and fast. but it's a small fortune.

I will probably just use the chromaclear as I can mix in the black candy in the 2nd coat of clear, then put 3 more coats of pure clear on top of it, also chromaclear has a system flex additive that I can add to the bumpers without changing the color of the clear... Unfortunately I wil have to use a whole different system on the hood as I want to get serious UV protection for that carbon fiber.